
itinerary by Igor Chovanec
I invite you to a town that is very different from other coastal towns in Crna Gora - Bar.
In fact, unlike other local seaside towns (e.g. Herceg Novi, Perast, Kotor, Budva, Petrovac na Moru, Ulcinj/Ulqin), this is a heavily de-urbanized town, due to its turbulent history. However, this is what makes it interesting - it is not a copy of anything, you won't confuse it with anything (and moreover, unlike the other cities mentioned above, it "lives" all year round).
My excursions are focused on the present and future of the area I visit, rather than the historical phenomena and the usual tourist attractions, from the perspective of architecture, urban planning, transport and ecology. For such a full-fledged exploration of the city of Bar and its immediate surroundings, we will thus need 4 days.
On day 1 we will be looking at the city centre Bar.
In fact, its downtown is relatively new; it was created by the local harbor and the bringing of the railroad from inland to it. The character of the town centre, its architecture and (dis)urban design also reflect this.
In addition to being the largest port in the country, the city has, among other things. It is also home to one of the most modern sports halls in the country, one of the most modern stadiums in the country, the remains of the oldest church in the country, the largest church and the largest cerekev in the country, and once the largest department store in the former federation (Yugoslavia).
The city will also boast the most luxurious hotel on the Adriatic coast and the largest water park in the country, which is its associated investment (as part of a public-private partnership).
On this day we can end our tour at one of the beaches, of which there are 6 in total:
- Gradska plaža (it is the closest to the city centre, but also to the harbour)
- Kraljevska plaža (it is in the centre of the town)
- Šušanjska plaža (is within walking distance of the town centre)
- Crvena plaža (is the smallest and most picturesque of all)
- Ratacka plaža (is nudist and with the worst access and facilities)
- Sutomorska plaža (it is the largest of all)
All are mostly or absolutely rocky and most have refreshments, lifeguards and sanitary facilities. The sun shines on them an average of 270 days a year.
On the 2nd day we will cover 2 suburbs of Bar.
This city has many suburbs, but one of them is very different from the others. It is the suburb of Stari Bar, containing its fortified part of Stari Grad, which was originally the town of Bar, or the town of Antivari, named after the Italian town of Bari, located across the Adriatic Sea (you can take a boat trip to it).
Part of this fortified area is the citadel, which is actually a kind of fortress within a fort.
Outside the fortress with 3 Catholic churches there are, among other things, 3 mosques and the only aqueduct in the country. A historical alley leads to it, full of souvenir shops and restaurants whose dishes are based exclusively on local ingredients. These are locally grown, locally prepared, of the highest quality and a feast for the taste buds and the soul. We can try different fish, seafood, meat and cheese in different ways, etc.) and the local excellent (not only) beer for thirst, wine for relaxation and raki for the mood, all complemented by a large selection of olives, which are also at home here. Dishes are flavoured with local herbs such as rosemary and basil.
In addition, the entrance to this suburb is newly signposted by a cultural stall, linked precisely with olive trees. This interesting new building provides information about the history of olive oil production in the region. It is the largest olive house in the country.
Another mosque is a new building - but it stands on the outskirts of Celuga; it is the largest mosque in the country.
Away from the suburb of Chelug grows the oldest olive tree on the continent, still fruiting. Its estimated age is about 2250 years (in 2020).
On the 3rd day we will explore the Bunar gorge of the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Bunar gorge is undercut by the Stari Grad fortress (which we will pass by) and viewed from the height of this fortress.
The short but challenging hike in the heat (all along the mountain road) is rewarded with several waterfalls, the target one (Vrteljak) being the largest of them all.
A bonus is the opportunity to cool off in it, as well as in the viewing bar next to it, which includes a guesthouse.
It is also interesting to note that the waters of this river, before they flow into the sea (already under the name of the Rikavac River), cross the 1050 m long tunnel of the Volujica Mountain. This solution of diverting the flow of the river was implemented in 1958 in order to drain the area of the present-day Bar port.
On day 4 we will explore the Željeznica gorge from the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Željeznica River forms several waterfalls here, the largest of which is called Skok. It is a longer and in hot weather difficult hike (almost entirely on a mountain road), but unlike the Vrteljak waterfall, it is not possible to swim in it (it is inaccessible).
The Željeznica River, however, is interesting not only from a landscape point of view, but also from a cultural-historical-architectural point of view.
The river separates the suburb of Šušanj from the town of Bar proper.
This is not that interesting.
Here the region you know as Dalmacija ends and the region of Prevalitana begins.
That sounds more interesting.
Here is the border between the Bishopric of Kotor and Bar.
It is interesting that one, not very big city (Bar) belongs to two bishoprics.
In the agglomeration of Bar you will not find mosques on the right bank of the Željeznica River (otherwise everything is written in the sense of right bank vs. left bank).
In fact, the most interesting thing about it is...
We are standing on the former border of the former state formations of Austria-Hungary (Österreich-Ungarn/Osztrák-Magyar) and the Ottoman Empire (Osmanlı Devleti) (until 1878)... and that's already quite interesting information...
Sea, mountains, waterfalls, ancient monuments and modern buildings, excellent cuisine and great people - this is the city of Bar.
I invite you to a town that is very different from other coastal towns in Crna Gora - Bar.
In fact, unlike other local seaside towns (e.g. Herceg Novi, Perast, Kotor, Budva, Petrovac na Moru, Ulcinj/Ulqin), this is a heavily de-urbanized town, due to its turbulent history. However, this is what makes it interesting - it is not a copy of anything, you won't confuse it with anything (and moreover, unlike the other cities mentioned above, it "lives" all year round).
My excursions are focused on the present and future of the area I visit, rather than the historical phenomena and the usual tourist attractions, from the perspective of architecture, urban planning, transport and ecology. For such a full-fledged exploration of the city of Bar and its immediate surroundings, we will thus need 4 days.
On day 1 we will be looking at the city centre Bar.
In fact, its downtown is relatively new; it was created by the local harbor and the bringing of the railroad from inland to it. The character of the town centre, its architecture and (dis)urban design also reflect this.
In addition to being the largest port in the country, the city has, among other things. It is also home to one of the most modern sports halls in the country, one of the most modern stadiums in the country, the remains of the oldest church in the country, the largest church and the largest cerekev in the country, and once the largest department store in the former federation (Yugoslavia).
The city will also boast the most luxurious hotel on the Adriatic coast and the largest water park in the country, which is its associated investment (as part of a public-private partnership).
On this day we can end our tour at one of the beaches, of which there are 6 in total:
- Gradska plaža (it is the closest to the city centre, but also to the harbour)
- Kraljevska plaža (it is in the centre of the town)
- Šušanjska plaža (is within walking distance of the town centre)
- Crvena plaža (is the smallest and most picturesque of all)
- Ratacka plaža (is nudist and with the worst access and facilities)
- Sutomorska plaža (it is the largest of all)
All are mostly or absolutely rocky and most have refreshments, lifeguards and sanitary facilities. The sun shines on them an average of 270 days a year.
On the 2nd day we will cover 2 suburbs of Bar.
This city has many suburbs, but one of them is very different from the others. It is the suburb of Stari Bar, containing its fortified part of Stari Grad, which was originally the town of Bar, or the town of Antivari, named after the Italian town of Bari, located across the Adriatic Sea (you can take a boat trip to it).
Part of this fortified area is the citadel, which is actually a kind of fortress within a fort.
Outside the fortress with 3 Catholic churches there are, among other things, 3 mosques and the only aqueduct in the country. A historical alley leads to it, full of souvenir shops and restaurants whose dishes are based exclusively on local ingredients. These are locally grown, locally prepared, of the highest quality and a feast for the taste buds and the soul. We can try different fish, seafood, meat and cheese in different ways, etc.) and the local excellent (not only) beer for thirst, wine for relaxation and raki for the mood, all complemented by a large selection of olives, which are also at home here. Dishes are flavoured with local herbs such as rosemary and basil.
In addition, the entrance to this suburb is newly signposted by a cultural stall, linked precisely with olive trees. This interesting new building provides information about the history of olive oil production in the region. It is the largest olive house in the country.
Another mosque is a new building - but it stands on the outskirts of Celuga; it is the largest mosque in the country.
Away from the suburb of Chelug grows the oldest olive tree on the continent, still fruiting. Its estimated age is about 2250 years (in 2020).
On the 3rd day we will explore the Bunar gorge of the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Bunar gorge is undercut by the Stari Grad fortress (which we will pass by) and viewed from the height of this fortress.
The short but challenging hike in the heat (all along the mountain road) is rewarded with several waterfalls, the target one (Vrteljak) being the largest of them all.
A bonus is the opportunity to cool off in it, as well as in the viewing bar next to it, which includes a guesthouse.
It is also interesting to note that the waters of this river, before they flow into the sea (already under the name of the Rikavac River), cross the 1050 m long tunnel of the Volujica Mountain. This solution of diverting the flow of the river was implemented in 1958 in order to drain the area of the present-day Bar port.
On day 4 we will explore the Željeznica gorge from the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Željeznica River forms several waterfalls here, the largest of which is called Skok. It is a longer and in hot weather difficult hike (almost entirely on a mountain road), but unlike the Vrteljak waterfall, it is not possible to swim in it (it is inaccessible).
The Željeznica River, however, is interesting not only from a landscape point of view, but also from a cultural-historical-architectural point of view.
The river separates the suburb of Šušanj from the town of Bar proper.
This is not that interesting.
Here the region you know as Dalmacija ends and the region of Prevalitana begins.
That sounds more interesting.
Here is the border between the Bishopric of Kotor and Bar.
It is interesting that one, not very big city (Bar) belongs to two bishoprics.
In the agglomeration of Bar you will not find mosques on the right bank of the Željeznica River (otherwise everything is written in the sense of right bank vs. left bank).
In fact, the most interesting thing about it is...
We are standing on the former border of the former state formations of Austria-Hungary (Österreich-Ungarn/Osztrák-Magyar) and the Ottoman Empire (Osmanlı Devleti) (until 1878)... and that's already quite interesting information...
Sea, mountains, waterfalls, ancient monuments and modern buildings, excellent cuisine and great people - this is the city of Bar.
I invite you to a town that is very different from other coastal towns in Crna Gora - Bar.
In fact, unlike other local seaside towns (e.g. Herceg Novi, Perast, Kotor, Budva, Petrovac na Moru, Ulcinj/Ulqin), this is a heavily de-urbanized town, due to its turbulent history. However, this is what makes it interesting - it is not a copy of anything, you won't confuse it with anything (and moreover, unlike the other cities mentioned above, it "lives" all year round).
My excursions are focused on the present and future of the area I visit, rather than the historical phenomena and the usual tourist attractions, from the perspective of architecture, urban planning, transport and ecology. For such a full-fledged exploration of the city of Bar and its immediate surroundings, we will thus need 4 days.
On day 1 we will be looking at the city centre Bar.
In fact, its downtown is relatively new; it was created by the local harbor and the bringing of the railroad from inland to it. The character of the town centre, its architecture and (dis)urban design also reflect this.
In addition to being the largest port in the country, the city has, among other things. It is also home to one of the most modern sports halls in the country, one of the most modern stadiums in the country, the remains of the oldest church in the country, the largest church and the largest cerekev in the country, and once the largest department store in the former federation (Yugoslavia).
The city will also boast the most luxurious hotel on the Adriatic coast and the largest water park in the country, which is its associated investment (as part of a public-private partnership).
On this day we can end our tour at one of the beaches, of which there are 6 in total:
- Gradska plaža (it is the closest to the city centre, but also to the harbour)
- Kraljevska plaža (it is in the centre of the town)
- Šušanjska plaža (is within walking distance of the town centre)
- Crvena plaža (is the smallest and most picturesque of all)
- Ratacka plaža (is nudist and with the worst access and facilities)
- Sutomorska plaža (it is the largest of all)
All are mostly or absolutely rocky and most have refreshments, lifeguards and sanitary facilities. The sun shines on them an average of 270 days a year.
On the 2nd day we will cover 2 suburbs of Bar.
This city has many suburbs, but one of them is very different from the others. It is the suburb of Stari Bar, containing its fortified part of Stari Grad, which was originally the town of Bar, or the town of Antivari, named after the Italian town of Bari, located across the Adriatic Sea (you can take a boat trip to it).
Part of this fortified area is the citadel, which is actually a kind of fortress within a fort.
Outside the fortress with 3 Catholic churches there are, among other things, 3 mosques and the only aqueduct in the country. A historical alley leads to it, full of souvenir shops and restaurants whose dishes are based exclusively on local ingredients. These are locally grown, locally prepared, of the highest quality and a feast for the taste buds and the soul. We can try different fish, seafood, meat and cheese in different ways, etc.) and the local excellent (not only) beer for thirst, wine for relaxation and raki for the mood, all complemented by a large selection of olives, which are also at home here. Dishes are flavoured with local herbs such as rosemary and basil.
In addition, the entrance to this suburb is newly signposted by a cultural stall, linked precisely with olive trees. This interesting new building provides information about the history of olive oil production in the region. It is the largest olive house in the country.
Another mosque is a new building - but it stands on the outskirts of Celuga; it is the largest mosque in the country.
Away from the suburb of Chelug grows the oldest olive tree on the continent, still fruiting. Its estimated age is about 2250 years (in 2020).
On the 3rd day we will explore the Bunar gorge of the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Bunar gorge is undercut by the Stari Grad fortress (which we will pass by) and viewed from the height of this fortress.
The short but challenging hike in the heat (all along the mountain road) is rewarded with several waterfalls, the target one (Vrteljak) being the largest of them all.
A bonus is the opportunity to cool off in it, as well as in the viewing bar next to it, which includes a guesthouse.
It is also interesting to note that the waters of this river, before they flow into the sea (already under the name of the Rikavac River), cross the 1050 m long tunnel of the Volujica Mountain. This solution of diverting the flow of the river was implemented in 1958 in order to drain the area of the present-day Bar port.
On day 4 we will explore the Željeznica gorge from the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Željeznica River forms several waterfalls here, the largest of which is called Skok. It is a longer and in hot weather difficult hike (almost entirely on a mountain road), but unlike the Vrteljak waterfall, it is not possible to swim in it (it is inaccessible).
The Željeznica River, however, is interesting not only from a landscape point of view, but also from a cultural-historical-architectural point of view.
The river separates the suburb of Šušanj from the town of Bar proper.
This is not that interesting.
Here the region you know as Dalmacija ends and the region of Prevalitana begins.
That sounds more interesting.
Here is the border between the Bishopric of Kotor and Bar.
It is interesting that one, not very big city (Bar) belongs to two bishoprics.
In the agglomeration of Bar you will not find mosques on the right bank of the Željeznica River (otherwise everything is written in the sense of right bank vs. left bank).
In fact, the most interesting thing about it is...
We are standing on the former border of the former state formations of Austria-Hungary (Österreich-Ungarn/Osztrák-Magyar) and the Ottoman Empire (Osmanlı Devleti) (until 1878)... and that's already quite interesting information...
Sea, mountains, waterfalls, ancient monuments and modern buildings, excellent cuisine and great people - this is the city of Bar.
I invite you to a town that is very different from other coastal towns in Crna Gora - Bar.
In fact, unlike other local seaside towns (e.g. Herceg Novi, Perast, Kotor, Budva, Petrovac na Moru, Ulcinj/Ulqin), this is a heavily de-urbanized town, due to its turbulent history. However, this is what makes it interesting - it is not a copy of anything, you won't confuse it with anything (and moreover, unlike the other cities mentioned above, it "lives" all year round).
My excursions are focused on the present and future of the area I visit, rather than the historical phenomena and the usual tourist attractions, from the perspective of architecture, urban planning, transport and ecology. For such a full-fledged exploration of the city of Bar and its immediate surroundings, we will thus need 4 days.
On day 1 we will be looking at the city centre Bar.
In fact, its downtown is relatively new; it was created by the local harbor and the bringing of the railroad from inland to it. The character of the town centre, its architecture and (dis)urban design also reflect this.
In addition to being the largest port in the country, the city has, among other things. It is also home to one of the most modern sports halls in the country, one of the most modern stadiums in the country, the remains of the oldest church in the country, the largest church and the largest cerekev in the country, and once the largest department store in the former federation (Yugoslavia).
The city will also boast the most luxurious hotel on the Adriatic coast and the largest water park in the country, which is its associated investment (as part of a public-private partnership).
On this day we can end our tour at one of the beaches, of which there are 6 in total:
- Gradska plaža (it is the closest to the city centre, but also to the harbour)
- Kraljevska plaža (it is in the centre of the town)
- Šušanjska plaža (is within walking distance of the town centre)
- Crvena plaža (is the smallest and most picturesque of all)
- Ratacka plaža (is nudist and with the worst access and facilities)
- Sutomorska plaža (it is the largest of all)
All are mostly or absolutely rocky and most have refreshments, lifeguards and sanitary facilities. The sun shines on them an average of 270 days a year.
On the 2nd day we will cover 2 suburbs of Bar.
This city has many suburbs, but one of them is very different from the others. It is the suburb of Stari Bar, containing its fortified part of Stari Grad, which was originally the town of Bar, or the town of Antivari, named after the Italian town of Bari, located across the Adriatic Sea (you can take a boat trip to it).
Part of this fortified area is the citadel, which is actually a kind of fortress within a fort.
Outside the fortress with 3 Catholic churches there are, among other things, 3 mosques and the only aqueduct in the country. A historical alley leads to it, full of souvenir shops and restaurants whose dishes are based exclusively on local ingredients. These are locally grown, locally prepared, of the highest quality and a feast for the taste buds and the soul. We can try different fish, seafood, meat and cheese in different ways, etc.) and the local excellent (not only) beer for thirst, wine for relaxation and raki for the mood, all complemented by a large selection of olives, which are also at home here. Dishes are flavoured with local herbs such as rosemary and basil.
In addition, the entrance to this suburb is newly signposted by a cultural stall, linked precisely with olive trees. This interesting new building provides information about the history of olive oil production in the region. It is the largest olive house in the country.
Another mosque is a new building - but it stands on the outskirts of Celuga; it is the largest mosque in the country.
Away from the suburb of Chelug grows the oldest olive tree on the continent, still fruiting. Its estimated age is about 2250 years (in 2020).
On the 3rd day we will explore the Bunar gorge of the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Bunar gorge is undercut by the Stari Grad fortress (which we will pass by) and viewed from the height of this fortress.
The short but challenging hike in the heat (all along the mountain road) is rewarded with several waterfalls, the target one (Vrteljak) being the largest of them all.
A bonus is the opportunity to cool off in it, as well as in the viewing bar next to it, which includes a guesthouse.
It is also interesting to note that the waters of this river, before they flow into the sea (already under the name of the Rikavac River), cross the 1050 m long tunnel of the Volujica Mountain. This solution of diverting the flow of the river was implemented in 1958 in order to drain the area of the present-day Bar port.
On day 4 we will explore the Željeznica gorge from the Rumija mountains, covering the back of the town of Bar.
The Željeznica River forms several waterfalls here, the largest of which is called Skok. It is a longer and in hot weather difficult hike (almost entirely on a mountain road), but unlike the Vrteljak waterfall, it is not possible to swim in it (it is inaccessible).
The Željeznica River, however, is interesting not only from a landscape point of view, but also from a cultural-historical-architectural point of view.
The river separates the suburb of Šušanj from the town of Bar proper.
This is not that interesting.
Here the region you know as Dalmacija ends and the region of Prevalitana begins.
That sounds more interesting.
Here is the border between the Bishopric of Kotor and Bar.
It is interesting that one, not very big city (Bar) belongs to two bishoprics.
In the agglomeration of Bar you will not find mosques on the right bank of the Željeznica River (otherwise everything is written in the sense of right bank vs. left bank).
In fact, the most interesting thing about it is...
We are standing on the former border of the former state formations of Austria-Hungary (Österreich-Ungarn/Osztrák-Magyar) and the Ottoman Empire (Osmanlı Devleti) (until 1878)... and that's already quite interesting information...
Sea, mountains, waterfalls, ancient monuments and modern buildings, excellent cuisine and great people - this is the city of Bar.