Travel to Tokyo, be aware of the time change. Rest and hydrate on the plane. You can arrive at Haneida or Naruta airport. From Haneida taking two trains is possible but we took a car to get to our lodging and settle in. From then on, trains were the way to go.

Today, you´ll get familiar with an Edo period market, plus experience the coolest modern art you may ever see and finish up with a hot Udon noodle dish.

A full day, from breathing in the crisp air at sacred Mt Fuji to walking the bustling streets of Shinjuku in search of our first sushi meal. We were lucky to get Sachiko as our local tour guide (Tours By Locals) with a private van and courteous driver to take us to Mt Fuji. She ensured we made all our requested stops and got all the perfect photos. We were all so happy to see the sun, many days the clouds are hiding Fuji but we lucked out. Along with the scenery, the food was just as memorable. Sachiko took us to a local noodle house Hoto Fudo for our incredible pot of homemade noodles in miso broth with cabbage, mushroom and pumpkin. Don’t forget the local sake! After a 9-hour total trip, back in Shinjuku we set out for some sushi. It exceeded expectations, we sat at a small counter and watched the chef hand roll a gorgeous assortment and then we enjoyed every morsel!

This was the day to find touristy but worthwhile activities. We wanted a quick breakfast and knew just where we had to go. We had only read about the konbini and travelers making a meal out of them so we had to try it. The three convenience store chains are 7-11, Family Mart and Lawson. And convenient they are! We ended up going several times for a quick breakfast (Egg Salad Sando!!), a light lunch (onigiri deliciousness) or just a fun variety of snacks and to use the ATM for yen. After the proper fuel, we headed to Asakusa. The tea ceremony is definitely for tourists but we did learn a lot about matcha, the tradition and the proper way to make and serve it.  Follow this up with go karting the streets of Tokyo and you are ready for dinner and a good night's sleep. Be sure to obtain an international driver's permit if you plan on participating in the go karts. 

Much of the day was spent in Asakusa, beginning with souffle pancakes and a hot matcha. Afterwards we wandered the beautiful streets of this neighborhood and visited some shops and the Senso Ji Buddhist temple. Dinnertime brought a traditional Tonkotsu style ramen: wait in a line, order at a kiosk, pay and receive a ticket, sit in “Ramen Focus Booths” and a bamboo shade in front of you opens then you see mysterious arms deliver your ramen. It exceeded expectations in flavor. Tomorrow we depart Tokyo for a few days of tranquility and nature.

So long Tokyo, for now. We boarded our first Shinkansen and headed for Kiso Fukushima and our most remote location on the trip. A smooth, comfortable and ultra efficient ride. Heading northwest, it grew snowy and beautiful and made for a wet walk to find our ryokan. After check-in we donned our yukata and tried the onsen right away (hot mineral public bath with fresh Kiso river water). Dinner - authentic, fresh and local and $8 USD!! Too long to name all items but included mackerel, local specialty fried chicken, miso soup, greens, tofu, sake and so on. We loved this serene spot and listening to the rushing river on our futon mattresses. Tomorrow it’s time for a hike on an ancient trail through post towns (juku).

A lot of pictures today. Nearly impossible not to stop every 5 minutes with the quaintness and character of the Nakasendo Trail. From our ryokan we walked, trained, and bused to Magome to hike the segment ending in Tsumago (about 3hours). Both of these are among the juku (post towns) merchants stopped at for rest and food during the Edo period walking between what is now Tokyo and Kyoto. It’s a workout but so worth it as you meander through forests, by waterfalls and come upon beautiful surprises like the older local gentleman offering free tea at his tateba in the middle of the forest. He welcomes you into the stone hut around a fire and pours tea and offers pickled kohlrabi while you sit on a stump with a woven straw cushion. Other things we enjoyed: steamed buns, Hillbilly Coffee, the many available and very clean restrooms (still with heated seats!!). Arriving back we dined at a small restaurant offering a 5-course tofu meal. This is not the tofu we know (though we do enjoy at home). It’s fresh, local and creamy. Absolutely loved it presented in so many ways. Two meals with sake for $32!!

Said farewell to the beautiful Kiso River valley and via Shinkansen said hello to our new home for 3 days in Kyoto (the old capital of Japan). We are very much enjoying our discovery of this beautiful and very stylish city. We explored our Higashiyama neighborhood a bit and wandered the Pontocho district after crossing the Kamo River. There we traveled down a surreal and scenic alleyway to find our best sushi dinner yet. Loving the salmon roe and sea bream. We are feeling comfortable with greetings and saying thank you in Japanese (and also asking where is the toilet)! Afterwards we enjoyed a drink at Hello Dolly!

We started the day in our quaint Hirashiysma neighborhood with breakfast at Sagan Cafe (eggs, toast and matcha) and shopped the nearby Happy supermarket (have to stock our egg salad sandwiches). In the afternoon, we totally enjoyed our Hidden Gems tour with our private guide Eiji Ohshima! He showed us interesting history and cultural points along our walk and guided us through the Kennin Ji Temple (his place of relaxation) and the Kiyomizu Temple with a beautiful view of the city. We took the popular street of Sannen-Zak (three-year hill, don’t fall or you may die within three years!) to ascend to the temple entrance, it’s loaded with shops and tasty delights. Lastly, we had a unique dining experience at Menbaka Fire Ramen - “No Ramen, No Life”. It was quite the memorable experience !!

Last full day in Kyoto. It’s much smaller than Tokyo but still bustling and offers so much to do and eat too! Today was mainly filled with Arashiyama Park, walking the bamboo path (it gets very crowded so get there early then go explore the remainder of the park) and visiting the monkey park where snow monkeys come and gently take banana and apple slices you offer them. We also strolled the busy street on the edge of the park and enjoyed sweet potato chips. We were feeling our travels catching up to us today so we stayed close to our machiya for dinner at Tu Casa. We were more than happy with this choice and their vegan menu!

Before heading to the train station for our next shinkansen ride, we visited Fushimi Inari (then thousand Tori gates) and experienced the spiritual journey of the gates used to transition from the ordinary world to the sacred world. Then it was time to travel: train, shinkansen to Hiroshima, a local Hiroshima train and a ferry to Miyajima Island. We stayed on the island in a lovely seaside ryokan and experienced kasekei dinners (multi-course, chef selected and beautifully plated).

Walked along the Seto Sea to the floating O-Tori gate (come back in the afternoon at low tide to walk up to the gate), Then hop a direct ferry to Peace Memorial Park (don't take the longer ferry back to the terminal you came through initially). For a great meal and a respite visit Happy Pancake for incredible souffle pancakes!

It is always rewarding to add an island to your stay. Miyajima is a 10-minute ferry ride from Hiroshima. For a fulfilling day, wander the island and take the ropeway up to Mt Misen. See the O-Tori gate in the morning and again the afternoon for different experiences. There are over 600 deer wandering the island and quaint shops and cafes.

Last day. We decided early on Japan is somewhere we want to do more shopping than usual and we travel with just a large carry-on backpack so we purchased a suitcase and filled it up! Fun street sneakers, graphic tees etc. We explored Asakusa for the second time (ate very delicious matcha crepes) and some of Ginza (where we stopped for our last dinner - random basement ramen). Last stop to wrap up the amazing trip was Shibuya Crossing aka Shibuya Scramble. What a trip, arigato gozaimasu Japan!!

Be sure to journal your travels to remember this amazing trip as you travel back home.