
itinerary by Martin Konhefr
May 9, 2022:
Q: Interrail is celebrating its 50th birthday today, so it's half price. How about going on a longer train journey?
A: Right, where are we going?
Q: How about traversing almost all of Europe?
A: For a month?
Q: Buyin'! And two, for two months each!
August 17, 2022:
A: Will there be anything? Shall we go?
Quick call, design the skeleton of the trip, figure out what colleagues and friends we can meet where along the way, and we'll figure out the rest as we go.
September 4, 2022:
Wrap up the loom for the month and all that's left to do is activate our Interrail Global Pass and we can board the first train.
Over the next month we will ride on at least hundred different trains of varying quality in many EU countries, travel thousands of kilometres, visit dozens of places in Europe and meet many colleagues and friends. Our first train is already on the platform, so let's get on, it's going to be a ride! (And a little cruise too.
We leave early in the morning from Prague's main train station. The train takes us to Berlin, but on the way we have to take a shuttle bus from Ústí to Dresden.

At the station in Berlin we have about an hour to change to the next train to Hamburg, where we arrive in the evening after a 9-hour journey.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we will be staying with today and head downtown for dinner and a few beers together.
In the afternoon we will see part of Hamburg and in the afternoon we will move on to Denmark.
Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany and has an important port, which is one of the largest ports in Europe. It is also known for its architecture, culture and excellent gastronomy. So we have fish matjes in a bun for breakfast first thing in the morning at a fish buffet by the harbour, a very tasty local speciality that stings after last night's party, and nearby we check out the museum in the form of a submarine and the other boats moored there. The St. Pauli Tunnel under the Elbe connecting the two banks of the river is a very interesting historical technical monument. A walk along the waterfront will take you to HafenCity, a huge development project in the centre of Hamburg that is transforming the former port area into a modern district with office buildings, shops, culture and housing. Before leaving the station for Copenhagen, we also can't fail to stop at Poggenmühlenbrücke, where iconic photos of Hamburg are taken.

This time the almost five-hour connection to Copenhagen was pretty quiet, it's late summer and the people on the roads have obviously decreased.
We arrive in Kodana again in the evening. We have arranged accommodation with our colleagues (a young family) practically in the city centre, this time for two nights. We will spend the evening walking around downtown and having dinner at a taco restaurant. The prices here are very high, for a small portion of tacos one pays about 500 CZK, for a glass of beer about 300 CZK.

We have a full day to explore the beauties of Copenhagen. And in the afternoon, we'll go for a cup of coffee in Sweden.
In the morning we go to the city. We're probably too early, because the cafes haven't opened for breakfast yet. Still, we find one and plan what we would like to see today.
We start our city tour at Christiansborg. Christiansborg is the former royal palace on the peninsula of palaces (Slotsholmen) and until 1794 the royal residence of the Danish kings in Copenhagen, and nowadays the home of the Danish Parliament, the Government Office and the museum. From there, we pass numerous canals and waterways, which in turn are crossed by roads and bike paths heavily used by the city's inhabitants, to Christiania. The latter is an independent autonomous territory recognised by the Danish government and has its own rules and laws. And what an alternative centre it would be if there were no marjoram to be smelled and seen here. After the Inderhavnsbroen Bridge, we return to Nyhavn. Nyhavn is a historic port that has become a tourist attraction thanks to its picturesque houses, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. The buildings here date from the 17th and 18th centuries and were formerly used as dwellings, warehouses and workshops for shipyards. Heading further north, we pass the Marmorkirken, which is not far from the seat of the Danish royal family, Amalienborg, and reach Kastellet. Kastellet is a fortress and former military base, built in the 17th century. Today it serves as a park and tourist attraction overlooking the harbour and the city. The famous Sculpture of the Little Mermaid is also practically on the outskirts of Kastellet, which is permanently occupied by tourists. Afterwards, we return to the centre via Østre Park and Rosenborg Castle.

In the afternoon in the centre we take the train to Malmö, Sweden, so that after a few minutes in the tunnel under the sea we can enjoy a ride on the Bridge Øresundsbron over the sea between Denmark and Sweden with a view of the world farms, of which there are plenty.

In Malmö, we went for a cup of coffee at the Malmöhus Castle and Fortress, which is not far from the station and now serves as a museum and cultural centre.
After returning from Sweden, my colleagues and I went out for dinner. Then we spend the rest of the evening discussing all sorts of things over beers at another place in a fairly crowded downtown.

Transfer from Copenhagen to Bremen, where another colleague is waiting for us. Practically a full day of travelling.
We set off early in the morning, but instead of the train being emptier, it is again so crowded that we sit with other passengers without seats on the stairs by the door for practically the whole journey. It's a bit punk, but perhaps this should be the worst stretch of our entire month's travel.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we'll be staying with for two nights and head downtown for a lunch-dinner together, Chinese noodles and Thai beer. In the evening, my colleague takes us to see his Max Planck labs and we rest the rest of the day.
Today we will explore historic Bremen and in the afternoon we will also visit Bremerhaven, one of the most important European ports.
As always, we start our tour of the city today at the train station, from where we walk to check out Bremen's Central Park Bürgerpark with Parkhotel and continue on to the historic centre. After a morning coffee in the old windmill Herdentorswallmühle, we walk along the peninsula by the Weser River with its classic brick houses and head into the narrow streets by Schnoor Street. It is full of small shops, cafes and colourful houses. We save the very centre of the old town for last. The Altstadt is the oldest part of the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a number of monumental historical buildings and monuments here, such as the Gothic Town Hall, Bremen's Cathedral and the Roland Knight Statue. Not far from here is the listed Böttcherstraße, which is one of the few examples of expressionism in architecture. The brick buildings here date from 1922-1931.

The centre of Bremen can be explored in a morning. We have plenty of time, so we'll drive to nearby Bremerhaven.
In Bremerhaven we walked to the sea to see the harbour, which is very large. So just walking around the small harbour of Neuer Hafen was about two hours. Anyway, there's a lot to see here, from colourful boats, a U-boat museum, a hotel in the shape of a sailing ship, to large cargo ships, small sailing ships, locks or drawbridges. We had dinner at a local small restaurant in the Zollhaus, traditional: delicious fresh fish.
ponor
.The lifting bridge in Neuer Hafen
Back to Bremen and in the evening planning for tomorrow's full day crossing to Belgium.
Today we will have one of the most challenging crossings of the Eurotrip, from Bremen to Ghent in Belgium, where a colleague will be waiting for us. We leave early in the morning, changing at Osnabrück to the local to Hengelo. The plan was to take a direct connection to Amsterdam for a short stopover.
But in Hengelo, the first problems arose. The first train cancellations started to appear due to Dutch strikes on the railway, so we rescheduled other trains in real time. Due to the provincial nature of the region, the train connections here were also pretty bad, so we lost quite a bit of time with short transfers and finally reassessed the situation in Zwolle and instead of going to Amsterdam, we had a hard time getting to Rotterdam on a totally overcrowded train like a can of sardines, but still.
So we made a short stop at Amster instead of Rotterdam. This is exactly the magic of the Interrail Global passport!
Rotterdam is the second largest city in the Netherlands. We had about 3 hours to spend in Rotterdam, which is enough time for a short but monument-laden walk from the station to the Bridge of Erasmusbrug, where boats have a station for a sightseeing cruise on the river. Let's go for a ride, shall we?
The boat departs from Erasmusbrug along the river to the transshipments and docks with cargo ships at Pernis and returns past the former ocean-going ship SS Rotterdam, which is permanently stationed there, back to the Erasmusbrug bridge. The round trip takes about an hour and a quarter.
On the way from the boat back to the station, we also definitely have to stop at the large modern Markthal mall, a large glass-ceilinged hall of colour with many small shops. We sample a Leffe and continue by train to Antwerp.

docks and transhipment points
In Antwerp, we only briefly change trains for the last connection to Ghent today, so we have time to at least see the impressive historic station, which, in addition to its historical and artistic value, is also unique for its vertical arrangement of platforms one above the other.

Arrival in Ghent at night and accommodation with a colleague.
Today, we'll take a look at Brussels and then the Belgian countryside.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium and one of the most important centres of the European Union. It has a rich history, which is reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. It's a short drive from Ghent. We start our walk around the city near the station, on the gilded Grand Place, considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world. We continue through the sometimes unpleasantly smelly alleyways to the Manneken pis statue of the Peeing Boy, which has just been vandalised with yellow paint, perhaps in relation to the war in Ukraine. Less well known is the Statue of the Peeing Girl Jaenneke pis, which is pretty well hidden among the restaurants, cafes and bars with the ubiquitous Belgian beer.
Walking past the Cathedral we came to see the modern quarter, the other face of Brussels near Leopold Park, where the Parliamentarium complex houses the European Parliament. All in glass, modern buildings, marble. And in the park, statues of ostriches with their heads in the sand. Then on the way back to the station we saw the Belgian Royal Palace and the adjacent churches and parks in the Mont des Arts area.

In the afternoon we went to see another colleague who lives in the Belgian countryside near Court St Étienne. There are several days of celebrations going on there, so we spent the evening in the village at the fair, with cars and a shooting range as usual in the Czech countryside. The evening programme then included an interesting improvisational rhetorical duel between two teams who entertained the audience with professionally improvised sketches on given topics.

Today we will explore the historic city of Bruges and in the afternoon we will return to the university city of Ghent.
Bruggy is a historic town that, like the Venice of the North, boasts magnificent medieval buildings and water canals. In the past it was a important commercial centre and is now a popular tourist destination. Highlights include the Gothic Town Hall with the Belfried Tower, the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where the relics of Jesus Christ are kept, and one of the largest squares in Belgium, the hectare-long Markt Square.
To the centre we start from the train station, walk through Minnewaterpark to the Beijing Court, Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde. These are white-plastered houses from the 17th to 18th centuries, now belonging to a women's Benedictine convent and located in a quiet corner of one of the water channels. Passing the important brick Church of Our Lady, we reach the heart of Bruges, the Markt Square. The square is dominated by the aforementioned Gothic tower with its tall tower, as well as by the coloured brick houses. A walk further on takes you to the north-eastern edge of the historic centre to the Dampoort and the outer canal, around which there is a row of several old windmills in the adjacent hilltop park. These are 18th-century windmills that were once used to process grain.

windmills
It takes about half a day to explore the historic centre of Bruges. So we move again through the centre to the train station and continue to Ghent.
Gent, located in the Belgian region of East Flanders, is one of the most beautiful cities in Belgium. It has a rich history, which can be seen when walking through the narrow streets of the historic centre of the city. Medieval architecture can be seen in many places, including churches, cathedrals and castles. Ghent is also known as the City of the Three Towers because the landmarks of the centre are the large towers of Belfort (the bell tower), Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavon's Cathedral) and Sint-Niklaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church). Another interesting monument is the medieval castle Gravensteen, which was built in the 12th century and served as the residence of the counts and later as a prison. Of course, Ghent is also known for its rich culinary scene, offering many kinds of Belgian beers.
After an early evening stroll around the centre and dinner with colleagues, it was dark. Ghent had been transformed into an illuminated Belgian gem, and we were keen to explore Night Ghent again. I mean bike, this transport is very popular here.

Accommodation again at my colleague's place, tomorrow early morning departure to France.
Crossing from Ghent to Órleans with a short stop and change in Paris.
With the help of a few local trains we get to Lille, from there we take an express train to Amiens and finally another one to Paris at Paris Nord station.
The train to Órleans will take us from Paris Austerlitz station, which is at the other end of central Paris. We have about 4 hours to change trains, so we decide to walk through the centre with our luggage. We have several interesting sights along the way. The first one not far from the station is the church of St. Vincent. We weave our way through streets crowded with cars and people between apartment buildings in the regular and uniform development of the northern part of downtown Paris. Next on the route is the Park Jardin du Palais-Royal, and the adjacent Palais Royal, from which it is only a short walk to the landmark of all Paris, the famous Louvre. We will walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the Little and Grand Palais, from where the Invalides and another landmark of Paris, the Eiffel Tower are in sight. We don't want to go any further in this direction, because Austerlitz station is on the other side. So we continue along the Seine past the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is still being repaired after a fire in 2019.

4 hours is, of course, not enough for Paris, you can hardly walk from one station to another through the whole centre and at least see a few landmarks of the centre. But we've been to Paris a few times, so that's not our main goal today, we're just changing trains. The destination is Orleans, where we are to meet our host for today, who we found and arranged through Couchsurfing.
Órleans is a pretty small, but all the more beautiful historical town. Our host lives practically in the centre. We check in and then head out together for dinner and drinks on the bustling Rue de Bourgogne, where most of the best local cafes, restaurants, bars and other nightlife venues are concentrated. This is to keep the rest of the city from getting disturbed at night.

After a few days, we don't have to rush anywhere this morning, so the morning is mostly relaxing, with a good brunch after a walk around the centre. In the afternoon we leave Orleans and continue along the Loire River to Tours, where our next Couchsurfing hosts are waiting for us. In the meantime, we stop at two chateaux on the Loire, in the towns of Blois and Amboise.
Orleans is located on the Loire River. The town is especially famous for its historical importance during the Hundred Years' War. The most famous event associated with the town is the rescue of Órleans by the French national heroine, Johan of Arc, in 1429. The locals are obviously very proud of her, with symbols and references to Joan at every turn in the town. The town's architectural landmark is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, one of the largest cathedrals in France.
We're going to Blois. The station is practically in the centre of the town, so we will need about an hour to explore the area in order to continue on in time. For a potential tour of the local castle (as with all castles on the Loire), at least an extra hour or two would need to be added.
Blois is a picturesque town in the Loire Valley, for its small size known for its beautiful architecture and historical monuments. In the centre of the city is the imposing Chateau of Blois, which was built in the 16th century and served as the seat of the kings of France. As a result, it became an important centre of art and culture, where many important artists, writers and intellectuals met. Next to the castle, there are also picturesque streets with medieval houses and the historic marble Church of St. Vincent.
We take the next local that's running right now, and get off at the next town on our hop-on : hop-off hourly tours of the local castles, Amboise. In Amboise, the station lies on one side of the broad Loire, while the town centre lies on the other. So we take a detour to the centre via the historic bridge.
Amboise is another picturesque town located on the banks of the Loire River. It is famous for its Renaissance castle, which towers over the town and offers a fine view of the surrounding countryside. It was also a favourite residence of French kings in the 16th century. The historic centre here is really small, practically just a few streets around the castle.
An hour in Amboise is again enough time for us to explore. Tours will be more interesting, so we'll go.
Tours is one of the larger towns on the Loire. The city has a long history and is full of architectural monuments such as Gothic cathedrals, Romanesque churches and Renaissance palaces. The most prominent monument is the medieval Cathedral of Saint Gatien, famous for its vitreaux and its massive bell tower. Other notable monuments include the Gothic Church of Saint Martin or the Renaissance Palace of the Bishops of Tours. The historic centre of Vieux Tours is a gem in itself, full of winding narrow streets with gently crowded houses. We take a night stroll through the entire centre and on the banks of the Loire sit in a larger garden for a public event of mostly locals by the illuminated bridge.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
And today we will be staying in Tours with our Couchsurfing family. We will make the most of our Interrail Global pass. Early in the morning, we will drive to another town among the chateaux and castles on the Loire and in the wider area, Angers, and on the way back to Tours we will visit other smaller ones, in Saumur and Langeais, which are excellently accessible by train.
Angers lies on the River Maine, but practically on the edge of the town flows the Loire, into which the Maine empties. It is the capital city of the Maine-et-Loire region. It is best known for its castle, the Château d'Angers, which was built in the 9th century and served as a royal residence. Today, the castle is a tourist attraction and home to a museum. The Cathedral of St. Maurice is also worth mentioning, where rare polychromes have recently been discovered and are currently being reconstructed. Otherwise, Angers is also a wine-growing town, where the Chenin blanc grape variety is cultivated and used in the production of the famous wines of Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Saumur.

Two hours is enough for Angers, we are moving to Saumur.
Saumur is probably the most picturesque town on the Loire that we visited here. The dominant feature of the town is Saumur Castle, which rises on top of a hill above the town. This imposing castle was built in the 10th century and was later rebuilt in Renaissance style. The Historic Quarter with its narrow streets and houses dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Saumur is also famous for its horse schools, where classical riding and traditional French horsemanship are taught.
Langeais is a small town, perhaps even a village, with excellent train accessibility that one would almost miss on a map. Yet the local castle, built in the 15th century, is one of the most well-preserved castles in the Loire Valley. It is one of the few castles in the area that was not completely destroyed during the French Revolution. Perhaps because it was overlooked on the map by the revolutionaries and soldiers.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
We have a weekend ahead of us, which we intend to spend with colleagues in and around the Gulf of Morbihan and at sea on a sailboat. The destination of today's trip is therefore the small town of Sarzeau, where we will meet everyone one evening at a time. We will thus leave Tours early in the morning to Vannes by train, stopping en route for lunch and a tour of the beautiful centre in Nantes, the capital of the Pays de la Loire region.
We leave Tours early in the morning, with a change in Angers.

When you arrive in Nantes, the first thing that greets you is the Jardin des Plantes just opposite the train station, a botanical garden with more than 11,000 species of plants from all over the world, which serves as a research and education centre. We continue past the Catholic Church of St. Clément to the Isle of Versailles on the River Erdre, home to a Japanese-style park and museum. Like being back in Japan, the park is really convincing. We pass by the small water area Bassin de Ceineray, where the entire Erdre River disappears into a tunnel under the center, where smaller vessels can get to the Loire - if they wait for the green light. Before lunch, we also reach one of France's most beautiful basilicas, St. Nicholas Basilica. Other notable sights in Nantes include the Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which is just being rebuilt after a fire in 2020. We saved the city's jewel for last, the 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne, which was once the residence of the Dukes of Brittany, Anne of Brittany and her father, Francis II
Other interesting sites in the city that we missed today but are worth checking out include the Military Museum of Maillé-Brézé in the form of a permanently moored military ship, or the art, culture and tourism project Les Machines des Nantes. The project was created by the art group La Machine as part of the regeneration of a former industrial area on the banks of the Loire. The interactive project consists of giant steampunk mechanical machines that are powered by hydraulics and electric motors. The most famous of these machines is probably the Big Elephant. In the former industrial area there is also a large steampunk carousel or one of the icons of Nantes, the old yellow Titan crane.

Japanese Gardens
river tunnel
In the evening we leave Nantes by train to Vannes, where a colleague will pick us up by car and we will drive to our accommodation together.
We'll swap the train for the whole weekend for a boat, a small sailboat. Today we'll go to Quiberon for a bite to eat.
We refuel and leave the port of Arzon. We sail part of the way to Quiberon on a butterfly, part on a crosswind, but as unfortunately it doesn't blow much, we end up packing up the sails and just bubbling along on the engine until we get to Quiberon harbour.

Thankfully, it doesn't take anything away from the comfort on board.

We're anchored in the harbour and we're going for a walk. The inner harbour is virtually inaccessible at low tide.
After coffee and a traditional Breton pancake, we head back to Arzon. This time we don't even put the sails up and we go on the motor.

In the evening, we will stop at the Suscinio Castle, which has been undergoing renovation for the last few years and is thus getting its original appearance. The castle was built in the 13th century and served as the summer residence of the Breton dukes.
Today, we will dock so that with sunrise we can head out into Morbihan Bay, which is best accessed only at certain hours according to the tide. These phenomena are very intense here, and because of the very complex geography of the whole area with only one channel from the sea to the bay, there are many treacherous currents, which vary greatly in time just according to the tides. At certain times of the day, it is impossible to even get to some places, with a river flowing against the boat instead of a calm sea, as the water moves from the sea into the vast bay or vice versa. Alternatively, temporarily, instead of a few feet of water under the keel, rocks are just sticking out of the water. But we have a locally knowledgeable sea bass on board, so we have no trouble venturing to the island of Île-aux-Moines, the largest island in the Morbihan, which is the destination of today's trip.
Sunrise at the port of Arzon. Nobody's there. Only hungry seagulls combing the calm waters.

We navigated through all the currents and eddies with quite a few sport fishing boats around in the morning. I guess the fish are biting.
Monks Island is surrounded by small rocky islands and ever-changing coves and is popular for its picturesque nature and beaches. There are several old churches and chapels on the island, mostly with naval decoration, which is generally common in Brittany. There is also a museum and an archaeological site documenting the history of the island from prehistoric times to the present day. Tourists like to come here for day hiking or cycling, probably preferably on the very short ferry from Port Blanc, to enjoy the local nature and views of the surrounding countryside. After exploring the town on the island, we couldn't miss the opportunity to have the traditional Breton speciality, banana galettes, here too. These are pancakes with typical fillings such as cheese, ham, eggs, vegetables, seafood or mushrooms in various combinations.
We then leave the harbour and drive around the entire island back to Arzon.

The weekend at sea is over, the boat is anchored in the home port, so we pack our things and continue with our colleagues by car to Rennes.
Accommodation at one of our colleagues' place, from where we will leave early tomorrow morning for the south of France. Our last evening together, so we'll review the whole weekend over a good wine. It was a good one, it just could have been windier.
A full day crossing southwest France from Rennes to Bordeaux.
Transfer in Nantes, from there to Bordeaux by French IC.
The edge of good red wine is already making its presence felt.

Arrival in the afternoon, accommodation with colleagues for two nights.
A full day tour of Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is famous for its wine regions and its historic centre. The town centre, which was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2007, offers a number of historical sites.
We start today at the historic Dijeaux Gate with the symbols of the city (lion, leopard, bell, sickle), which serves as the entrance to the commercial streets in the city centre. Passing the large Mollat bookshop and the Grand Theatre opposite the prominent Hotel Intercontinental, we reach the Place des Quinconces. This is one of the largest squares in Europe, covering around 25 hectares. In the square there are two large fountains, statues of important French personalities and the Monument aux Girondins column in memory of the Girondist deputies who were victims of the Jacobin terror. We continue past the Garonne river, which is today as always brown coloured with fine mud. The silty fine clay soil is ubiquitous throughout the Bordeaux area and gives the local wines their unique character. You can learn more about them at the Museum Cité du vin, housed in a modern building shaped like a wine decanter, just opposite the unique Jacques Chaban-Delmas Bridge, which rises vertically and is the largest of its kind in Europe.
After lunch at the newly opened restaurant market on the Esplanade de Pontac near the old shipyards and submarine docks, which have their own charm of rust, brown mud and moored vessels, we return to the centre. We wander through the glitzy streets full of life, restaurants and cafes, where again we have to try a little something - cheesecake, coffee or a glass of rosé? Past the Gate of the Grosse cloche (Great Bell) we then continue to the cathedral. The richly decorated St. Andrew's Cathedral is one of the largest Romanesque buildings in France. Just across the street from it, we peek into the Hotel de ville, the town hall. For dinner, my colleagues and I go for what else but the local traditional specialty, meat with saucebordelaise, which is a red wine sauce with onions, parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns. This dish is often served with chips and local wine. We then finish the day with a stroll through Night Bordeaux.

Accommodation with colleagues, tomorrow early morning departure further south.
A full day transfer from Bordeaux to Barcelona.
Early in the morning we leave for Narbonne, where we have about 2 hours for a quick walk around the city.
For how small Narbonne is, it is historically quite significant and interesting from a tourist point of view. It was founded by the Romans as a port on the Mediterranean, and at its height was one of the most important cities in the area. In the city centre there are several monuments such as the Bishop's Palace, the Romanesque Church of St. Paul, but above all the Gothic Cathedral of St. Justus and St. Pastor. Originally dating from the 13th century, the building has remained unfinished since the Middle Ages, and the original completed choir with gallery is used as a church. At 41 metres, it is one of the tallest in France.

Roman archaeological monuments
We continue by train to Perpignan, a lake on the border with Spain. We want to continue via Port Bou along the coast to Barcelona, but the following train at Perpignan is cancelled and not running. Could it be the strikes in Spain? Or just Spanish mania? Anyway, because of the schedule-reality mismatch, we waste several hours dealing with the replacement service. In the end, after waiting for a few hours with others at the counters and debating the tickets, we decide to take at least the last free TGV express train to Barcelona today for an extra 12 euros or so. So we arrive in Barcelona at around 10pm, are picked up by a colleague at the big main Sants highway, and just manage to have a late dinner at a traditional Spanish restaurant and a beer together before midnight.
Accommodation at a colleague's place, in the morning continuing on to Valencia as our current main destination - Barcelona just passing through.
Moving from Barcelona to Valencia. But while we're in Barcelona, we'll take a detour to at least see the Sagrada Familia. We'll save the rest of the surely beautiful Barcelona for another day.
Sagrada Familia is the most important building in Barcelona and the most famous work of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The building is located in the city centre and its construction was started in 1882, but still has not been completed. The temple is magnificent, distinguished above all by its decorative towers and a façade full of sculptural details, which Gaudí expressed in an organic style. The Sagrada Familia has become a symbol of Barcelona. And we move on.
From the metro, we take the many, many escalators from the heart of the Earth to Sants station and, with a change at Aldea-Amposta (which is a little station with nothing around), we are on half-empty trains in Valencia in the afternoon. It's a pity they run so infrequently (only a couple of times a day) when they are quite spacious, comfortable and one can enjoy the view of the sea in places.
So Valencia welcomes us with nice weather. We'll stroll through the beautifully clean and tidy historical centre, where our feet will take us today (it's close to everywhere, the centre is pretty compact), do some grocery shopping, and later have dinner together with one of the colleagues we'll be staying with. We'll leave the proper sightseeing for the next few days, we'll be here for three nights, so there will be plenty of time.

historical city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
We've been on the road for over two weeks, so today will be a totally relaxing day, it's high time to stop a bit. In the morning, we rent bikes for the day at one of the many rental shops and ride up to one of the city's sandy beaches, the quiet Malvarrosa Beach, where we'll spend virtually the entire day doing nothing. Even that is necessary sometimes.
We start in the centre near the train station, where we rent bikes. Through the centre of Valencia, which lies in a former bend of the Turia River, we drive north of the centre to the large Jardín del Túria Park, which stretches for over 9km in the original riverbed. This original riverbed was in fact relocated south of the city in the second half of the twentieth century after the tragic floods and floods of 1957, which claimed around a thousand victims. The Jardín del Túria Park, which was thus created and through which all the bridges still pass, is thus one of the largest urban parks in Europe, ideal for cycling or for other sports that many people like to practice here. Then, at the eastern end of the park in the City of Arts and Sciences is the Oceanárium, the largest public aquarium in Europe, past which we continue on to Malvarrosa Beach and Playa de las Arenas, and will be returning this way in the evening.

Park after the relocated river around the city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
It's Saturday, time for a proper tour of the city. We've seen a lot already, but today we'll discover more interesting places with our colleague who knows the place very well and will be with us all day.
We start in the Jardins del Real, where wild parrots fly and chatter above us. We'll walk to another Park del Parterre, where the statue of Jaume I, James I, stands in the middle. Aragon, and several ancient sprawling pine trees. From here we walk to the centre, where a bat, one of the emblems of Valencia, can be seen on one of the houses. The rococo Palazzo del Marqués de Dos Aguas with its displays of ceramics is definitely worth noting along the way. Not far from here is Square Redona, a round area with several stalls forming a pleasant little market. Opposite the picturesque Gothic church of Santa Catalina is a house that was once a separate housing unit and boasts the lowest facade in Europe. Today, however, it is part of the house next door. We stop here at horchateria Santa Catalina, a renowned traditional establishment for the sole purpose of sampling the local delicacies horchata and farton. Horchata is a milk-like drink that tastes like carrots, but is made from tiger nuts. And farton is an elongated sweet pastry that is dipped in horchata. After a snack, we continue on to the Central Market, where you can get almost any local food. Just opposite the market is the Llotja de la Seda, a gothic UNESCO monument with free admission, where the silk trade used to flourish, and where the Silk Road ended. The great hall is exceptional, with its high columns and stunning ceiling, which used to be painted with stars. Next, we walk to the Gate of Quart and later to the Gate of Serranos, which used to serve as a prison and were therefore spared demolition when the city's fortifications were torn down. Both gates can be climbed (free entry) to look around Valencia.

park Parterre se sochou Jaume I
bone, the house with the narrowest facade and hot water heaters
In the evening, we meet a colleague and drive south of Valencia to the Albufera Nature Reserve. We pass several lakes and ponds to see the strangely yellow sea, and then watch the sun set over Valencia from the locals' favourite viewpoint de la Gola del Pujol on the shores of Lake Albufera.
Albufera beaches
small dock and viewpoint
Accommodation with colleagues, from tomorrow we start to return to the Czech Republic.
Distance-wise, today we have probably the longest crossing, a full day move from Valencia as far north as possible. We have arranged accommodation via Couchsurfing in Nîmes, but this falls at midday, because unlike in Barcelona this morning, we can't get last-minute reservations on the fast train, so we don't make our arranged dinner with our hostess and arrive in Nîmes on the regional trains until late at night. Holt doesn't always work out - the Spanish railways are not exactly organisationally and systemically friendly. Seeking reservations in the Spanish train system is a bit more complicated than in the seamless online reservation systems of France and other Midwestern European countries.
A quick departure on the high speed train which gets us to Barcelona in about 3 hours. Mandatory reservation was easily arranged just before departure at the station for a few euros.
However, the Sants station is busy and almost all the express trains are sold out, so we are forced to take regional trains instead of the planned express train. At least the check-in counters here are fast and the rail staff are nice. So we take the metro to the San Andres station and from there continue at a slower pace to Port Bou.



If we didn't make it to Port Bou on the way south, we're at least making it on the way back north, albeit involuntarily this time. So the mythical Port Bou has been humbled, and in celebration of victory over the Spanish train system (which of all Europe on our Eurotrip, Spain was the least functional) and the joy of it, of returning to normal functioning France, we have a good Estrella beer in a small town between transfers, one of the few things that works quite well for the Spanish.

And yes, there are still those nice sea views when the track comes within sight of the coast. The stretch between Llança and Cerbere is so picturesque in the setting sun.

There is a French train leaving from Port Bou in the evening, which will take us to Nîmes in 3.5 hours.
Because of the late hour, we are staying right across the street across from the train station, which is an ideal choice for an overnight stay (and unexpectedly cheap compared to other local accommodations), as we continue along the Côte d'Azur early tomorrow morning.
Today will be packed to the brim, along the Côte d'Azur we will drive to the Italian town of Ventimiglia, explore the seaside and foothill principality of Monaco and spend the evening in French Nice.
We leave Nîmes early in the morning and with a change in Marseille we are in Nice for lunch.
We will leave our luggage at our accommodation near the train station and continue along the coast, returning sometime at night.

The Côte d'Azur, often referred to as the French Riviera, stretches from Marseille to the Italian border. The train line from Nice to Italy winds between rocks, through small and large tunnels, and often overlooks the sea from the train. You can also enjoy the beautiful coastline, the azure blue sea and the sunshine from the train. In some places it even looks as if the train is hovering directly over the sea.
The first major destination today is the town of Ventimiglia practically just over the border with France at the southern end of the Alps. The historic centre, on a hilltop on the western bank of the Roia River flowing into the sea, is a compact building of colourful houses, its centre dominated by the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral of St Mary Assunta. From this hill, you have a nice view of the entire city, the coastline with its beaches and harbours, or the mountains that tower over the city. And even in such a provincial town, they make excellent ice cream here. Holt Italy!

After two hours in Vemtimiglia, during which time the whole town can be walked around in peace, we return the same way by train back to France. I don't usually like to take the same route twice, but these views of the sea never get old. Especially when the sun is just starting to set.
Even on the slower local trains, it's all close together; within minutes we're in Monaco's only train station. And you know it as soon as you peer out of the train window - unlike other stations, Monaco - Monte Carlo is all in the rock and at first glance it is opulent and luxurious, clean and tidy, made of modern materials.
Monaco covers an area of just 2.02km², so we had no problem covering most of it in less than two hours. Luxury, casinos and drama can be seen and felt at every turn. We'll head straight to the rock outcropping, home to Monaco's greatest pearls, the Royal Palace, St. Nicholas Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum. And of course the breathtaking views of the surrounding area full of grand buildings and yachts. Plus, we caught the sunset perfectly, so it's a great sight to see both early evening and nighttime Monaco. Through the Harbor of Hercules we can also see, for example, the glowing buildings of the Casinas of Monte Carlo.
The rest of the evening will be spent in Nice again. We will walk through the centre, past the Statues of Apollo in the Masséna Square to the city's long Opera Beach and walk along it to the top with a park on the site of the former castle. We will also wander through the streets of the old town of Vieux Nice.

walk around the beach
streets of the old town
Accommodation via Booking near the train station.
A full day crossing from Nice to Lausanne.
Short transfer in Marseille, direct connection to Lyon.

From Lyon we continue by direct train to Geneva.
In Switzerland, the warm and nice summer weather is coming to an end, and Geneva welcomes us with overcast skies. We change trains for Laussane, where it is already raining. And depending on the weather, it will rain for the next few days, during which we plan to stay in Switzerland. Just great.
Accommodation with colleagues in Laussane for the next three nights.
Since it's raining, it's supposed to rain, and it's going to rain for our entire stay in Switzerland, we'll use the next few days not so much to hang out in the rain in the cities (or only occasionally), but to cross as much of the Swiss mountains as possible by train, now that we have our Interrail Global Pass. Because it doesn't rain on the trains (especially the comfortable Swiss ones), we'll spend virtually the entirety of the following days in them.
Early in the morning, we have a big circuit from Lausanne via Sion, Brig, Andermatt, Lucerne and Bern back to Lausanne.
On the Brig we change from a regular express train to a regional tourist train, which is designed for difficult mountain terrain and from which it is possible to observe the interesting Swiss mountains on the stretch to Andermatt. There is also one of the more well-known trains, the Glacier Express, which unlike the regular regional trains is considerably more expensive, with mandatory reservations or the option to have a meal on board, but you can see virtually the same things from this train as from a regular train.





In Andermatt we change to another regional train, which takes us within minutes to nearby Göschenen.
It's a very hilly trail, like many other mountain sections the passability is ensured by using toothpicks on the train. One wonders where the train can get here.
In Göschenen we wait for the express train, which is just coming in and out of the fifteen-kilometre tunnel under the mountain massifs. The technical design of the Swiss railways is truly admirable. With a further change at Altdorf we get to Luzern.
Until we got to Lucerne, the weather was quite calm all day with only a sprinkle of rain. In Lucerne, however, it was so rainy that it would not chase away a dog. But it wouldn't be us if we didn't take a peek into the centre of this historic city, despite the bad weather.
Luzern lies on the shores of Lake Luzernsee, from which the River Reuss flows through the centre of the city. Its water is incredibly clear and glacially blue. There are also several important old wooden bridges across the river in the beautiful historic part of the city, especially the Kapellbrücke Bridge, which is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe and a major tourist attraction.
After a quick tour of Lucerne, we then take the fast train back to Lausanne, where it is raining quite heavily again in the evening.
Accommodation with colleagues.
Today's circuit through Switzerland will be much smaller than yesterday's. We've discovered that the Interrail Global Pass includes a ticket on selected boat services on some Swiss lakes. And since one of these lakes is Thunersee, and with a recommendation from our hosts, it's a done deal. We'll go for a ride on the lake, explore the city of Thun and take another regional tourist train to the winter resort of Zermatt, maybe see the Matterhorn. Okay, yes, we won't, it's raining, it is and it's going to be cloudy... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Transfer in Bern and another in Thun.
We're on our way back from Interlaken, just passing through now.
Within a few more tens of minutes we get off at Interlaken West. The town is named after its location, situated between two lakes - Brienzersee and Thunersee. We board at the dock practically right next to the station and within moments the boat pulls out onto Thunersee and we are off on a cruise with stops on both sides of the lake.
Thunersee is one of the most beautiful lakes in Switzerland. It is 17 km long and up to 3.5 km wide. The lake is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, mountains and hills, villages and towns. It is widely used for water sports and recreation. In addition, Thunersee is a popular tourist destination for the beautiful views of the picturesque mountain landscape it offers both from the shore and from the sometimes incredibly blue surface of the lake. Pendulating in the fresh, cold wind between the two picturesque shores, now the captain stops on the left, now on the right shore, we pull up to the shore, the crew anchors, passengers get on and off, and within minutes we are off again at a brisk pace to our next stop.
We get off in Spiez, where we see the local medieval castle on the way to the station.
From Spiez we are back in Thun by train in a few minutes. Like Interlaken, Thun is situated on the Aare River, which also flows through Lake Thun. The town has a nice historical centre with medieval buildings and many museums. The Castle of Thun, originally dating from the 12th century, is the dominant feature visible from afar. The castle was built on a hill above the town and offers a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside, including the nearby lake.
From Thun we take the Italian fast train and in less than an hour we get off in Visp. The train goes most of the way through a long tunnel under the Alps, the so-called Lötschberg Tunnel. This is one of the longest railway tunnels in Europe. It measures 35 km and was only opened in 2007 as part of a new section of the high-speed line between Germany and Italy. The tunnel has two separate rail routes, each running in one direction, allowing a large number of freight and passenger trains to pass between northern and southern Europe. The construction of the tunnel was very demanding and cost more than 4 billion Swiss francs, but it has greatly reduced transport times. Further proof of the technical advancement of the Swiss railways.
From Visp we change to another regional tourist train to the end of this section, Zermatt. Looking at the rock massifs all around and the debris fields of these massifs, the trees growing in them look more like splinters than towering giants.
Zermatt itself is a picturesque Swiss mountain town in the Mattertal Valley below the famous Matterhorn, which unfortunately we can't see due to overcast skies. In any case, the town is famous for its ski resorts and offers many luxury hotels and restaurants as well as tourist activities in summer and winter. There's no snow here yet, but they're getting ready for it, with electric carts driven between the sturdy wooden buildings by road workers, police, shopkeepers...
On the same way we return to Visp and after changing in Visp continue to Lausanne by direct express train.
Lausanne will welcome us again in the evening with a downpour. Fortunately, it is not permanent, so it will allow us to go to see at least the view of the Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a nice view of the whole of Lausanne at night.

Accommodation with colleagues. And tomorrow we will leave for Germany.
We say goodbye to Lausanne again in the rain early in the morning. Today's panoramic journey through the Swiss mountains will take us from Montreux, through the plains and valleys around Château-d'Oex and Gstaad, to Zweisimmen and on through the Simmental Valley to Spiez. From there, we will take fast trains to Zurich and on to Munich. The Oktoberfest is on, so we will finish our Eurotrip with another colleague in Munich at the Oktoberfest.
In Montreux we will change to the regional tourist train, which will take us to Zweisimmen. I mean, it would probably like to take us, but rather uncharacteristically for Swiss punctuality and punctuality, we stand for several dozen minutes unnecessarily somewhere at the beginning of the line for technical reasons. The technique on this section doesn't look in good condition. Anyway, despite the long delay, we somehow move forward and eventually reach Zweisimmen.
The reward for our patience are again views of the surrounding mountains, meadows and scattered farmhouses on the hills.

The rest of the way to Munich is no problem, we could have just taken a direct connection from Zurich to Munich and not made an extra change in St. Gallen, where it was harder to find a seat on the fast train, which was very busy.

Arrival in Munich in the evening, dinner together in the city and accommodation with a colleague.
It's the last weekend of Oktoberfest. We will spend the whole day in the city, mostly at the Oktoberfest, which takes place in Theresienwiese. The beer tents are packed to bursting, not only because of the drizzle. It is necessary to leave early, perhaps at 10am, otherwise it is very difficult to get in. If you are late, you have to stand in line for several dozen minutes before you are allowed into a tent.

Party all day all night with a few other friends, accommodation again at a colleague's place.
Last day of the Eurotrip, just need to get home, simply south through Linz.
What to say in conclusion?
I'm actually surprised that it took us only a few hours to organize this whole venture before we left, practically all the original plans worked well during the whole month except for a few minor things and financially the Eurotrip could be considered low cost. However, we would have spent about 5 times more than the cost of our Interrail Global Pass just on fares. It was a really intense ride, thousands of kilometres travelled, days of pure time on often varied trains, dozens of beautiful places visited in Europe in 12 countries, extraordinary memories made with extraordinary friends and colleagues and another large part of our beautiful continent discovered.
And we're not done yet, there's still a second month for smaller trips... :)
May 9, 2022:
Q: Interrail is celebrating its 50th birthday today, so it's half price. How about going on a longer train journey?
A: Right, where are we going?
Q: How about traversing almost all of Europe?
A: For a month?
Q: Buyin'! And two, for two months each!
August 17, 2022:
A: Will there be anything? Shall we go?
Quick call, design the skeleton of the trip, figure out what colleagues and friends we can meet where along the way, and we'll figure out the rest as we go.
September 4, 2022:
Wrap up the loom for the month and all that's left to do is activate our Interrail Global Pass and we can board the first train.
Over the next month we will ride on at least hundred different trains of varying quality in many EU countries, travel thousands of kilometres, visit dozens of places in Europe and meet many colleagues and friends. Our first train is already on the platform, so let's get on, it's going to be a ride! (And a little cruise too.
We leave early in the morning from Prague's main train station. The train takes us to Berlin, but on the way we have to take a shuttle bus from Ústí to Dresden.

At the station in Berlin we have about an hour to change to the next train to Hamburg, where we arrive in the evening after a 9-hour journey.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we will be staying with today and head downtown for dinner and a few beers together.
In the afternoon we will see part of Hamburg and in the afternoon we will move on to Denmark.
Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany and has an important port, which is one of the largest ports in Europe. It is also known for its architecture, culture and excellent gastronomy. So we have fish matjes in a bun for breakfast first thing in the morning at a fish buffet by the harbour, a very tasty local speciality that stings after last night's party, and nearby we check out the museum in the form of a submarine and the other boats moored there. The St. Pauli Tunnel under the Elbe connecting the two banks of the river is a very interesting historical technical monument. A walk along the waterfront will take you to HafenCity, a huge development project in the centre of Hamburg that is transforming the former port area into a modern district with office buildings, shops, culture and housing. Before leaving the station for Copenhagen, we also can't fail to stop at Poggenmühlenbrücke, where iconic photos of Hamburg are taken.

This time the almost five-hour connection to Copenhagen was pretty quiet, it's late summer and the people on the roads have obviously decreased.
We arrive in Kodana again in the evening. We have arranged accommodation with our colleagues (a young family) practically in the city centre, this time for two nights. We will spend the evening walking around downtown and having dinner at a taco restaurant. The prices here are very high, for a small portion of tacos one pays about 500 CZK, for a glass of beer about 300 CZK.

We have a full day to explore the beauties of Copenhagen. And in the afternoon, we'll go for a cup of coffee in Sweden.
In the morning we go to the city. We're probably too early, because the cafes haven't opened for breakfast yet. Still, we find one and plan what we would like to see today.
We start our city tour at Christiansborg. Christiansborg is the former royal palace on the peninsula of palaces (Slotsholmen) and until 1794 the royal residence of the Danish kings in Copenhagen, and nowadays the home of the Danish Parliament, the Government Office and the museum. From there, we pass numerous canals and waterways, which in turn are crossed by roads and bike paths heavily used by the city's inhabitants, to Christiania. The latter is an independent autonomous territory recognised by the Danish government and has its own rules and laws. And what an alternative centre it would be if there were no marjoram to be smelled and seen here. After the Inderhavnsbroen Bridge, we return to Nyhavn. Nyhavn is a historic port that has become a tourist attraction thanks to its picturesque houses, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. The buildings here date from the 17th and 18th centuries and were formerly used as dwellings, warehouses and workshops for shipyards. Heading further north, we pass the Marmorkirken, which is not far from the seat of the Danish royal family, Amalienborg, and reach Kastellet. Kastellet is a fortress and former military base, built in the 17th century. Today it serves as a park and tourist attraction overlooking the harbour and the city. The famous Sculpture of the Little Mermaid is also practically on the outskirts of Kastellet, which is permanently occupied by tourists. Afterwards, we return to the centre via Østre Park and Rosenborg Castle.

In the afternoon in the centre we take the train to Malmö, Sweden, so that after a few minutes in the tunnel under the sea we can enjoy a ride on the Bridge Øresundsbron over the sea between Denmark and Sweden with a view of the world farms, of which there are plenty.

In Malmö, we went for a cup of coffee at the Malmöhus Castle and Fortress, which is not far from the station and now serves as a museum and cultural centre.
After returning from Sweden, my colleagues and I went out for dinner. Then we spend the rest of the evening discussing all sorts of things over beers at another place in a fairly crowded downtown.

Transfer from Copenhagen to Bremen, where another colleague is waiting for us. Practically a full day of travelling.
We set off early in the morning, but instead of the train being emptier, it is again so crowded that we sit with other passengers without seats on the stairs by the door for practically the whole journey. It's a bit punk, but perhaps this should be the worst stretch of our entire month's travel.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we'll be staying with for two nights and head downtown for a lunch-dinner together, Chinese noodles and Thai beer. In the evening, my colleague takes us to see his Max Planck labs and we rest the rest of the day.
Today we will explore historic Bremen and in the afternoon we will also visit Bremerhaven, one of the most important European ports.
As always, we start our tour of the city today at the train station, from where we walk to check out Bremen's Central Park Bürgerpark with Parkhotel and continue on to the historic centre. After a morning coffee in the old windmill Herdentorswallmühle, we walk along the peninsula by the Weser River with its classic brick houses and head into the narrow streets by Schnoor Street. It is full of small shops, cafes and colourful houses. We save the very centre of the old town for last. The Altstadt is the oldest part of the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a number of monumental historical buildings and monuments here, such as the Gothic Town Hall, Bremen's Cathedral and the Roland Knight Statue. Not far from here is the listed Böttcherstraße, which is one of the few examples of expressionism in architecture. The brick buildings here date from 1922-1931.

The centre of Bremen can be explored in a morning. We have plenty of time, so we'll drive to nearby Bremerhaven.
In Bremerhaven we walked to the sea to see the harbour, which is very large. So just walking around the small harbour of Neuer Hafen was about two hours. Anyway, there's a lot to see here, from colourful boats, a U-boat museum, a hotel in the shape of a sailing ship, to large cargo ships, small sailing ships, locks or drawbridges. We had dinner at a local small restaurant in the Zollhaus, traditional: delicious fresh fish.
ponor
.The lifting bridge in Neuer Hafen
Back to Bremen and in the evening planning for tomorrow's full day crossing to Belgium.
Today we will have one of the most challenging crossings of the Eurotrip, from Bremen to Ghent in Belgium, where a colleague will be waiting for us. We leave early in the morning, changing at Osnabrück to the local to Hengelo. The plan was to take a direct connection to Amsterdam for a short stopover.
But in Hengelo, the first problems arose. The first train cancellations started to appear due to Dutch strikes on the railway, so we rescheduled other trains in real time. Due to the provincial nature of the region, the train connections here were also pretty bad, so we lost quite a bit of time with short transfers and finally reassessed the situation in Zwolle and instead of going to Amsterdam, we had a hard time getting to Rotterdam on a totally overcrowded train like a can of sardines, but still.
So we made a short stop at Amster instead of Rotterdam. This is exactly the magic of the Interrail Global passport!
Rotterdam is the second largest city in the Netherlands. We had about 3 hours to spend in Rotterdam, which is enough time for a short but monument-laden walk from the station to the Bridge of Erasmusbrug, where boats have a station for a sightseeing cruise on the river. Let's go for a ride, shall we?
The boat departs from Erasmusbrug along the river to the transshipments and docks with cargo ships at Pernis and returns past the former ocean-going ship SS Rotterdam, which is permanently stationed there, back to the Erasmusbrug bridge. The round trip takes about an hour and a quarter.
On the way from the boat back to the station, we also definitely have to stop at the large modern Markthal mall, a large glass-ceilinged hall of colour with many small shops. We sample a Leffe and continue by train to Antwerp.

docks and transhipment points
In Antwerp, we only briefly change trains for the last connection to Ghent today, so we have time to at least see the impressive historic station, which, in addition to its historical and artistic value, is also unique for its vertical arrangement of platforms one above the other.

Arrival in Ghent at night and accommodation with a colleague.
Today, we'll take a look at Brussels and then the Belgian countryside.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium and one of the most important centres of the European Union. It has a rich history, which is reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. It's a short drive from Ghent. We start our walk around the city near the station, on the gilded Grand Place, considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world. We continue through the sometimes unpleasantly smelly alleyways to the Manneken pis statue of the Peeing Boy, which has just been vandalised with yellow paint, perhaps in relation to the war in Ukraine. Less well known is the Statue of the Peeing Girl Jaenneke pis, which is pretty well hidden among the restaurants, cafes and bars with the ubiquitous Belgian beer.
Walking past the Cathedral we came to see the modern quarter, the other face of Brussels near Leopold Park, where the Parliamentarium complex houses the European Parliament. All in glass, modern buildings, marble. And in the park, statues of ostriches with their heads in the sand. Then on the way back to the station we saw the Belgian Royal Palace and the adjacent churches and parks in the Mont des Arts area.

In the afternoon we went to see another colleague who lives in the Belgian countryside near Court St Étienne. There are several days of celebrations going on there, so we spent the evening in the village at the fair, with cars and a shooting range as usual in the Czech countryside. The evening programme then included an interesting improvisational rhetorical duel between two teams who entertained the audience with professionally improvised sketches on given topics.

Today we will explore the historic city of Bruges and in the afternoon we will return to the university city of Ghent.
Bruggy is a historic town that, like the Venice of the North, boasts magnificent medieval buildings and water canals. In the past it was a important commercial centre and is now a popular tourist destination. Highlights include the Gothic Town Hall with the Belfried Tower, the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where the relics of Jesus Christ are kept, and one of the largest squares in Belgium, the hectare-long Markt Square.
To the centre we start from the train station, walk through Minnewaterpark to the Beijing Court, Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde. These are white-plastered houses from the 17th to 18th centuries, now belonging to a women's Benedictine convent and located in a quiet corner of one of the water channels. Passing the important brick Church of Our Lady, we reach the heart of Bruges, the Markt Square. The square is dominated by the aforementioned Gothic tower with its tall tower, as well as by the coloured brick houses. A walk further on takes you to the north-eastern edge of the historic centre to the Dampoort and the outer canal, around which there is a row of several old windmills in the adjacent hilltop park. These are 18th-century windmills that were once used to process grain.

windmills
It takes about half a day to explore the historic centre of Bruges. So we move again through the centre to the train station and continue to Ghent.
Gent, located in the Belgian region of East Flanders, is one of the most beautiful cities in Belgium. It has a rich history, which can be seen when walking through the narrow streets of the historic centre of the city. Medieval architecture can be seen in many places, including churches, cathedrals and castles. Ghent is also known as the City of the Three Towers because the landmarks of the centre are the large towers of Belfort (the bell tower), Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavon's Cathedral) and Sint-Niklaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church). Another interesting monument is the medieval castle Gravensteen, which was built in the 12th century and served as the residence of the counts and later as a prison. Of course, Ghent is also known for its rich culinary scene, offering many kinds of Belgian beers.
After an early evening stroll around the centre and dinner with colleagues, it was dark. Ghent had been transformed into an illuminated Belgian gem, and we were keen to explore Night Ghent again. I mean bike, this transport is very popular here.

Accommodation again at my colleague's place, tomorrow early morning departure to France.
Crossing from Ghent to Órleans with a short stop and change in Paris.
With the help of a few local trains we get to Lille, from there we take an express train to Amiens and finally another one to Paris at Paris Nord station.
The train to Órleans will take us from Paris Austerlitz station, which is at the other end of central Paris. We have about 4 hours to change trains, so we decide to walk through the centre with our luggage. We have several interesting sights along the way. The first one not far from the station is the church of St. Vincent. We weave our way through streets crowded with cars and people between apartment buildings in the regular and uniform development of the northern part of downtown Paris. Next on the route is the Park Jardin du Palais-Royal, and the adjacent Palais Royal, from which it is only a short walk to the landmark of all Paris, the famous Louvre. We will walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the Little and Grand Palais, from where the Invalides and another landmark of Paris, the Eiffel Tower are in sight. We don't want to go any further in this direction, because Austerlitz station is on the other side. So we continue along the Seine past the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is still being repaired after a fire in 2019.

4 hours is, of course, not enough for Paris, you can hardly walk from one station to another through the whole centre and at least see a few landmarks of the centre. But we've been to Paris a few times, so that's not our main goal today, we're just changing trains. The destination is Orleans, where we are to meet our host for today, who we found and arranged through Couchsurfing.
Órleans is a pretty small, but all the more beautiful historical town. Our host lives practically in the centre. We check in and then head out together for dinner and drinks on the bustling Rue de Bourgogne, where most of the best local cafes, restaurants, bars and other nightlife venues are concentrated. This is to keep the rest of the city from getting disturbed at night.

After a few days, we don't have to rush anywhere this morning, so the morning is mostly relaxing, with a good brunch after a walk around the centre. In the afternoon we leave Orleans and continue along the Loire River to Tours, where our next Couchsurfing hosts are waiting for us. In the meantime, we stop at two chateaux on the Loire, in the towns of Blois and Amboise.
Orleans is located on the Loire River. The town is especially famous for its historical importance during the Hundred Years' War. The most famous event associated with the town is the rescue of Órleans by the French national heroine, Johan of Arc, in 1429. The locals are obviously very proud of her, with symbols and references to Joan at every turn in the town. The town's architectural landmark is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, one of the largest cathedrals in France.
We're going to Blois. The station is practically in the centre of the town, so we will need about an hour to explore the area in order to continue on in time. For a potential tour of the local castle (as with all castles on the Loire), at least an extra hour or two would need to be added.
Blois is a picturesque town in the Loire Valley, for its small size known for its beautiful architecture and historical monuments. In the centre of the city is the imposing Chateau of Blois, which was built in the 16th century and served as the seat of the kings of France. As a result, it became an important centre of art and culture, where many important artists, writers and intellectuals met. Next to the castle, there are also picturesque streets with medieval houses and the historic marble Church of St. Vincent.
We take the next local that's running right now, and get off at the next town on our hop-on : hop-off hourly tours of the local castles, Amboise. In Amboise, the station lies on one side of the broad Loire, while the town centre lies on the other. So we take a detour to the centre via the historic bridge.
Amboise is another picturesque town located on the banks of the Loire River. It is famous for its Renaissance castle, which towers over the town and offers a fine view of the surrounding countryside. It was also a favourite residence of French kings in the 16th century. The historic centre here is really small, practically just a few streets around the castle.
An hour in Amboise is again enough time for us to explore. Tours will be more interesting, so we'll go.
Tours is one of the larger towns on the Loire. The city has a long history and is full of architectural monuments such as Gothic cathedrals, Romanesque churches and Renaissance palaces. The most prominent monument is the medieval Cathedral of Saint Gatien, famous for its vitreaux and its massive bell tower. Other notable monuments include the Gothic Church of Saint Martin or the Renaissance Palace of the Bishops of Tours. The historic centre of Vieux Tours is a gem in itself, full of winding narrow streets with gently crowded houses. We take a night stroll through the entire centre and on the banks of the Loire sit in a larger garden for a public event of mostly locals by the illuminated bridge.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
And today we will be staying in Tours with our Couchsurfing family. We will make the most of our Interrail Global pass. Early in the morning, we will drive to another town among the chateaux and castles on the Loire and in the wider area, Angers, and on the way back to Tours we will visit other smaller ones, in Saumur and Langeais, which are excellently accessible by train.
Angers lies on the River Maine, but practically on the edge of the town flows the Loire, into which the Maine empties. It is the capital city of the Maine-et-Loire region. It is best known for its castle, the Château d'Angers, which was built in the 9th century and served as a royal residence. Today, the castle is a tourist attraction and home to a museum. The Cathedral of St. Maurice is also worth mentioning, where rare polychromes have recently been discovered and are currently being reconstructed. Otherwise, Angers is also a wine-growing town, where the Chenin blanc grape variety is cultivated and used in the production of the famous wines of Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Saumur.

Two hours is enough for Angers, we are moving to Saumur.
Saumur is probably the most picturesque town on the Loire that we visited here. The dominant feature of the town is Saumur Castle, which rises on top of a hill above the town. This imposing castle was built in the 10th century and was later rebuilt in Renaissance style. The Historic Quarter with its narrow streets and houses dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Saumur is also famous for its horse schools, where classical riding and traditional French horsemanship are taught.
Langeais is a small town, perhaps even a village, with excellent train accessibility that one would almost miss on a map. Yet the local castle, built in the 15th century, is one of the most well-preserved castles in the Loire Valley. It is one of the few castles in the area that was not completely destroyed during the French Revolution. Perhaps because it was overlooked on the map by the revolutionaries and soldiers.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
We have a weekend ahead of us, which we intend to spend with colleagues in and around the Gulf of Morbihan and at sea on a sailboat. The destination of today's trip is therefore the small town of Sarzeau, where we will meet everyone one evening at a time. We will thus leave Tours early in the morning to Vannes by train, stopping en route for lunch and a tour of the beautiful centre in Nantes, the capital of the Pays de la Loire region.
We leave Tours early in the morning, with a change in Angers.

When you arrive in Nantes, the first thing that greets you is the Jardin des Plantes just opposite the train station, a botanical garden with more than 11,000 species of plants from all over the world, which serves as a research and education centre. We continue past the Catholic Church of St. Clément to the Isle of Versailles on the River Erdre, home to a Japanese-style park and museum. Like being back in Japan, the park is really convincing. We pass by the small water area Bassin de Ceineray, where the entire Erdre River disappears into a tunnel under the center, where smaller vessels can get to the Loire - if they wait for the green light. Before lunch, we also reach one of France's most beautiful basilicas, St. Nicholas Basilica. Other notable sights in Nantes include the Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which is just being rebuilt after a fire in 2020. We saved the city's jewel for last, the 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne, which was once the residence of the Dukes of Brittany, Anne of Brittany and her father, Francis II
Other interesting sites in the city that we missed today but are worth checking out include the Military Museum of Maillé-Brézé in the form of a permanently moored military ship, or the art, culture and tourism project Les Machines des Nantes. The project was created by the art group La Machine as part of the regeneration of a former industrial area on the banks of the Loire. The interactive project consists of giant steampunk mechanical machines that are powered by hydraulics and electric motors. The most famous of these machines is probably the Big Elephant. In the former industrial area there is also a large steampunk carousel or one of the icons of Nantes, the old yellow Titan crane.

Japanese Gardens
river tunnel
In the evening we leave Nantes by train to Vannes, where a colleague will pick us up by car and we will drive to our accommodation together.
We'll swap the train for the whole weekend for a boat, a small sailboat. Today we'll go to Quiberon for a bite to eat.
We refuel and leave the port of Arzon. We sail part of the way to Quiberon on a butterfly, part on a crosswind, but as unfortunately it doesn't blow much, we end up packing up the sails and just bubbling along on the engine until we get to Quiberon harbour.

Thankfully, it doesn't take anything away from the comfort on board.

We're anchored in the harbour and we're going for a walk. The inner harbour is virtually inaccessible at low tide.
After coffee and a traditional Breton pancake, we head back to Arzon. This time we don't even put the sails up and we go on the motor.

In the evening, we will stop at the Suscinio Castle, which has been undergoing renovation for the last few years and is thus getting its original appearance. The castle was built in the 13th century and served as the summer residence of the Breton dukes.
Today, we will dock so that with sunrise we can head out into Morbihan Bay, which is best accessed only at certain hours according to the tide. These phenomena are very intense here, and because of the very complex geography of the whole area with only one channel from the sea to the bay, there are many treacherous currents, which vary greatly in time just according to the tides. At certain times of the day, it is impossible to even get to some places, with a river flowing against the boat instead of a calm sea, as the water moves from the sea into the vast bay or vice versa. Alternatively, temporarily, instead of a few feet of water under the keel, rocks are just sticking out of the water. But we have a locally knowledgeable sea bass on board, so we have no trouble venturing to the island of Île-aux-Moines, the largest island in the Morbihan, which is the destination of today's trip.
Sunrise at the port of Arzon. Nobody's there. Only hungry seagulls combing the calm waters.

We navigated through all the currents and eddies with quite a few sport fishing boats around in the morning. I guess the fish are biting.
Monks Island is surrounded by small rocky islands and ever-changing coves and is popular for its picturesque nature and beaches. There are several old churches and chapels on the island, mostly with naval decoration, which is generally common in Brittany. There is also a museum and an archaeological site documenting the history of the island from prehistoric times to the present day. Tourists like to come here for day hiking or cycling, probably preferably on the very short ferry from Port Blanc, to enjoy the local nature and views of the surrounding countryside. After exploring the town on the island, we couldn't miss the opportunity to have the traditional Breton speciality, banana galettes, here too. These are pancakes with typical fillings such as cheese, ham, eggs, vegetables, seafood or mushrooms in various combinations.
We then leave the harbour and drive around the entire island back to Arzon.

The weekend at sea is over, the boat is anchored in the home port, so we pack our things and continue with our colleagues by car to Rennes.
Accommodation at one of our colleagues' place, from where we will leave early tomorrow morning for the south of France. Our last evening together, so we'll review the whole weekend over a good wine. It was a good one, it just could have been windier.
A full day crossing southwest France from Rennes to Bordeaux.
Transfer in Nantes, from there to Bordeaux by French IC.
The edge of good red wine is already making its presence felt.

Arrival in the afternoon, accommodation with colleagues for two nights.
A full day tour of Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is famous for its wine regions and its historic centre. The town centre, which was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2007, offers a number of historical sites.
We start today at the historic Dijeaux Gate with the symbols of the city (lion, leopard, bell, sickle), which serves as the entrance to the commercial streets in the city centre. Passing the large Mollat bookshop and the Grand Theatre opposite the prominent Hotel Intercontinental, we reach the Place des Quinconces. This is one of the largest squares in Europe, covering around 25 hectares. In the square there are two large fountains, statues of important French personalities and the Monument aux Girondins column in memory of the Girondist deputies who were victims of the Jacobin terror. We continue past the Garonne river, which is today as always brown coloured with fine mud. The silty fine clay soil is ubiquitous throughout the Bordeaux area and gives the local wines their unique character. You can learn more about them at the Museum Cité du vin, housed in a modern building shaped like a wine decanter, just opposite the unique Jacques Chaban-Delmas Bridge, which rises vertically and is the largest of its kind in Europe.
After lunch at the newly opened restaurant market on the Esplanade de Pontac near the old shipyards and submarine docks, which have their own charm of rust, brown mud and moored vessels, we return to the centre. We wander through the glitzy streets full of life, restaurants and cafes, where again we have to try a little something - cheesecake, coffee or a glass of rosé? Past the Gate of the Grosse cloche (Great Bell) we then continue to the cathedral. The richly decorated St. Andrew's Cathedral is one of the largest Romanesque buildings in France. Just across the street from it, we peek into the Hotel de ville, the town hall. For dinner, my colleagues and I go for what else but the local traditional specialty, meat with saucebordelaise, which is a red wine sauce with onions, parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns. This dish is often served with chips and local wine. We then finish the day with a stroll through Night Bordeaux.

Accommodation with colleagues, tomorrow early morning departure further south.
A full day transfer from Bordeaux to Barcelona.
Early in the morning we leave for Narbonne, where we have about 2 hours for a quick walk around the city.
For how small Narbonne is, it is historically quite significant and interesting from a tourist point of view. It was founded by the Romans as a port on the Mediterranean, and at its height was one of the most important cities in the area. In the city centre there are several monuments such as the Bishop's Palace, the Romanesque Church of St. Paul, but above all the Gothic Cathedral of St. Justus and St. Pastor. Originally dating from the 13th century, the building has remained unfinished since the Middle Ages, and the original completed choir with gallery is used as a church. At 41 metres, it is one of the tallest in France.

Roman archaeological monuments
We continue by train to Perpignan, a lake on the border with Spain. We want to continue via Port Bou along the coast to Barcelona, but the following train at Perpignan is cancelled and not running. Could it be the strikes in Spain? Or just Spanish mania? Anyway, because of the schedule-reality mismatch, we waste several hours dealing with the replacement service. In the end, after waiting for a few hours with others at the counters and debating the tickets, we decide to take at least the last free TGV express train to Barcelona today for an extra 12 euros or so. So we arrive in Barcelona at around 10pm, are picked up by a colleague at the big main Sants highway, and just manage to have a late dinner at a traditional Spanish restaurant and a beer together before midnight.
Accommodation at a colleague's place, in the morning continuing on to Valencia as our current main destination - Barcelona just passing through.
Moving from Barcelona to Valencia. But while we're in Barcelona, we'll take a detour to at least see the Sagrada Familia. We'll save the rest of the surely beautiful Barcelona for another day.
Sagrada Familia is the most important building in Barcelona and the most famous work of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The building is located in the city centre and its construction was started in 1882, but still has not been completed. The temple is magnificent, distinguished above all by its decorative towers and a façade full of sculptural details, which Gaudí expressed in an organic style. The Sagrada Familia has become a symbol of Barcelona. And we move on.
From the metro, we take the many, many escalators from the heart of the Earth to Sants station and, with a change at Aldea-Amposta (which is a little station with nothing around), we are on half-empty trains in Valencia in the afternoon. It's a pity they run so infrequently (only a couple of times a day) when they are quite spacious, comfortable and one can enjoy the view of the sea in places.
So Valencia welcomes us with nice weather. We'll stroll through the beautifully clean and tidy historical centre, where our feet will take us today (it's close to everywhere, the centre is pretty compact), do some grocery shopping, and later have dinner together with one of the colleagues we'll be staying with. We'll leave the proper sightseeing for the next few days, we'll be here for three nights, so there will be plenty of time.

historical city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
We've been on the road for over two weeks, so today will be a totally relaxing day, it's high time to stop a bit. In the morning, we rent bikes for the day at one of the many rental shops and ride up to one of the city's sandy beaches, the quiet Malvarrosa Beach, where we'll spend virtually the entire day doing nothing. Even that is necessary sometimes.
We start in the centre near the train station, where we rent bikes. Through the centre of Valencia, which lies in a former bend of the Turia River, we drive north of the centre to the large Jardín del Túria Park, which stretches for over 9km in the original riverbed. This original riverbed was in fact relocated south of the city in the second half of the twentieth century after the tragic floods and floods of 1957, which claimed around a thousand victims. The Jardín del Túria Park, which was thus created and through which all the bridges still pass, is thus one of the largest urban parks in Europe, ideal for cycling or for other sports that many people like to practice here. Then, at the eastern end of the park in the City of Arts and Sciences is the Oceanárium, the largest public aquarium in Europe, past which we continue on to Malvarrosa Beach and Playa de las Arenas, and will be returning this way in the evening.

Park after the relocated river around the city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
It's Saturday, time for a proper tour of the city. We've seen a lot already, but today we'll discover more interesting places with our colleague who knows the place very well and will be with us all day.
We start in the Jardins del Real, where wild parrots fly and chatter above us. We'll walk to another Park del Parterre, where the statue of Jaume I, James I, stands in the middle. Aragon, and several ancient sprawling pine trees. From here we walk to the centre, where a bat, one of the emblems of Valencia, can be seen on one of the houses. The rococo Palazzo del Marqués de Dos Aguas with its displays of ceramics is definitely worth noting along the way. Not far from here is Square Redona, a round area with several stalls forming a pleasant little market. Opposite the picturesque Gothic church of Santa Catalina is a house that was once a separate housing unit and boasts the lowest facade in Europe. Today, however, it is part of the house next door. We stop here at horchateria Santa Catalina, a renowned traditional establishment for the sole purpose of sampling the local delicacies horchata and farton. Horchata is a milk-like drink that tastes like carrots, but is made from tiger nuts. And farton is an elongated sweet pastry that is dipped in horchata. After a snack, we continue on to the Central Market, where you can get almost any local food. Just opposite the market is the Llotja de la Seda, a gothic UNESCO monument with free admission, where the silk trade used to flourish, and where the Silk Road ended. The great hall is exceptional, with its high columns and stunning ceiling, which used to be painted with stars. Next, we walk to the Gate of Quart and later to the Gate of Serranos, which used to serve as a prison and were therefore spared demolition when the city's fortifications were torn down. Both gates can be climbed (free entry) to look around Valencia.

park Parterre se sochou Jaume I
bone, the house with the narrowest facade and hot water heaters
In the evening, we meet a colleague and drive south of Valencia to the Albufera Nature Reserve. We pass several lakes and ponds to see the strangely yellow sea, and then watch the sun set over Valencia from the locals' favourite viewpoint de la Gola del Pujol on the shores of Lake Albufera.
Albufera beaches
small dock and viewpoint
Accommodation with colleagues, from tomorrow we start to return to the Czech Republic.
Distance-wise, today we have probably the longest crossing, a full day move from Valencia as far north as possible. We have arranged accommodation via Couchsurfing in Nîmes, but this falls at midday, because unlike in Barcelona this morning, we can't get last-minute reservations on the fast train, so we don't make our arranged dinner with our hostess and arrive in Nîmes on the regional trains until late at night. Holt doesn't always work out - the Spanish railways are not exactly organisationally and systemically friendly. Seeking reservations in the Spanish train system is a bit more complicated than in the seamless online reservation systems of France and other Midwestern European countries.
A quick departure on the high speed train which gets us to Barcelona in about 3 hours. Mandatory reservation was easily arranged just before departure at the station for a few euros.
However, the Sants station is busy and almost all the express trains are sold out, so we are forced to take regional trains instead of the planned express train. At least the check-in counters here are fast and the rail staff are nice. So we take the metro to the San Andres station and from there continue at a slower pace to Port Bou.



If we didn't make it to Port Bou on the way south, we're at least making it on the way back north, albeit involuntarily this time. So the mythical Port Bou has been humbled, and in celebration of victory over the Spanish train system (which of all Europe on our Eurotrip, Spain was the least functional) and the joy of it, of returning to normal functioning France, we have a good Estrella beer in a small town between transfers, one of the few things that works quite well for the Spanish.

And yes, there are still those nice sea views when the track comes within sight of the coast. The stretch between Llança and Cerbere is so picturesque in the setting sun.

There is a French train leaving from Port Bou in the evening, which will take us to Nîmes in 3.5 hours.
Because of the late hour, we are staying right across the street across from the train station, which is an ideal choice for an overnight stay (and unexpectedly cheap compared to other local accommodations), as we continue along the Côte d'Azur early tomorrow morning.
Today will be packed to the brim, along the Côte d'Azur we will drive to the Italian town of Ventimiglia, explore the seaside and foothill principality of Monaco and spend the evening in French Nice.
We leave Nîmes early in the morning and with a change in Marseille we are in Nice for lunch.
We will leave our luggage at our accommodation near the train station and continue along the coast, returning sometime at night.

The Côte d'Azur, often referred to as the French Riviera, stretches from Marseille to the Italian border. The train line from Nice to Italy winds between rocks, through small and large tunnels, and often overlooks the sea from the train. You can also enjoy the beautiful coastline, the azure blue sea and the sunshine from the train. In some places it even looks as if the train is hovering directly over the sea.
The first major destination today is the town of Ventimiglia practically just over the border with France at the southern end of the Alps. The historic centre, on a hilltop on the western bank of the Roia River flowing into the sea, is a compact building of colourful houses, its centre dominated by the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral of St Mary Assunta. From this hill, you have a nice view of the entire city, the coastline with its beaches and harbours, or the mountains that tower over the city. And even in such a provincial town, they make excellent ice cream here. Holt Italy!

After two hours in Vemtimiglia, during which time the whole town can be walked around in peace, we return the same way by train back to France. I don't usually like to take the same route twice, but these views of the sea never get old. Especially when the sun is just starting to set.
Even on the slower local trains, it's all close together; within minutes we're in Monaco's only train station. And you know it as soon as you peer out of the train window - unlike other stations, Monaco - Monte Carlo is all in the rock and at first glance it is opulent and luxurious, clean and tidy, made of modern materials.
Monaco covers an area of just 2.02km², so we had no problem covering most of it in less than two hours. Luxury, casinos and drama can be seen and felt at every turn. We'll head straight to the rock outcropping, home to Monaco's greatest pearls, the Royal Palace, St. Nicholas Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum. And of course the breathtaking views of the surrounding area full of grand buildings and yachts. Plus, we caught the sunset perfectly, so it's a great sight to see both early evening and nighttime Monaco. Through the Harbor of Hercules we can also see, for example, the glowing buildings of the Casinas of Monte Carlo.
The rest of the evening will be spent in Nice again. We will walk through the centre, past the Statues of Apollo in the Masséna Square to the city's long Opera Beach and walk along it to the top with a park on the site of the former castle. We will also wander through the streets of the old town of Vieux Nice.

walk around the beach
streets of the old town
Accommodation via Booking near the train station.
A full day crossing from Nice to Lausanne.
Short transfer in Marseille, direct connection to Lyon.

From Lyon we continue by direct train to Geneva.
In Switzerland, the warm and nice summer weather is coming to an end, and Geneva welcomes us with overcast skies. We change trains for Laussane, where it is already raining. And depending on the weather, it will rain for the next few days, during which we plan to stay in Switzerland. Just great.
Accommodation with colleagues in Laussane for the next three nights.
Since it's raining, it's supposed to rain, and it's going to rain for our entire stay in Switzerland, we'll use the next few days not so much to hang out in the rain in the cities (or only occasionally), but to cross as much of the Swiss mountains as possible by train, now that we have our Interrail Global Pass. Because it doesn't rain on the trains (especially the comfortable Swiss ones), we'll spend virtually the entirety of the following days in them.
Early in the morning, we have a big circuit from Lausanne via Sion, Brig, Andermatt, Lucerne and Bern back to Lausanne.
On the Brig we change from a regular express train to a regional tourist train, which is designed for difficult mountain terrain and from which it is possible to observe the interesting Swiss mountains on the stretch to Andermatt. There is also one of the more well-known trains, the Glacier Express, which unlike the regular regional trains is considerably more expensive, with mandatory reservations or the option to have a meal on board, but you can see virtually the same things from this train as from a regular train.





In Andermatt we change to another regional train, which takes us within minutes to nearby Göschenen.
It's a very hilly trail, like many other mountain sections the passability is ensured by using toothpicks on the train. One wonders where the train can get here.
In Göschenen we wait for the express train, which is just coming in and out of the fifteen-kilometre tunnel under the mountain massifs. The technical design of the Swiss railways is truly admirable. With a further change at Altdorf we get to Luzern.
Until we got to Lucerne, the weather was quite calm all day with only a sprinkle of rain. In Lucerne, however, it was so rainy that it would not chase away a dog. But it wouldn't be us if we didn't take a peek into the centre of this historic city, despite the bad weather.
Luzern lies on the shores of Lake Luzernsee, from which the River Reuss flows through the centre of the city. Its water is incredibly clear and glacially blue. There are also several important old wooden bridges across the river in the beautiful historic part of the city, especially the Kapellbrücke Bridge, which is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe and a major tourist attraction.
After a quick tour of Lucerne, we then take the fast train back to Lausanne, where it is raining quite heavily again in the evening.
Accommodation with colleagues.
Today's circuit through Switzerland will be much smaller than yesterday's. We've discovered that the Interrail Global Pass includes a ticket on selected boat services on some Swiss lakes. And since one of these lakes is Thunersee, and with a recommendation from our hosts, it's a done deal. We'll go for a ride on the lake, explore the city of Thun and take another regional tourist train to the winter resort of Zermatt, maybe see the Matterhorn. Okay, yes, we won't, it's raining, it is and it's going to be cloudy... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Transfer in Bern and another in Thun.
We're on our way back from Interlaken, just passing through now.
Within a few more tens of minutes we get off at Interlaken West. The town is named after its location, situated between two lakes - Brienzersee and Thunersee. We board at the dock practically right next to the station and within moments the boat pulls out onto Thunersee and we are off on a cruise with stops on both sides of the lake.
Thunersee is one of the most beautiful lakes in Switzerland. It is 17 km long and up to 3.5 km wide. The lake is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, mountains and hills, villages and towns. It is widely used for water sports and recreation. In addition, Thunersee is a popular tourist destination for the beautiful views of the picturesque mountain landscape it offers both from the shore and from the sometimes incredibly blue surface of the lake. Pendulating in the fresh, cold wind between the two picturesque shores, now the captain stops on the left, now on the right shore, we pull up to the shore, the crew anchors, passengers get on and off, and within minutes we are off again at a brisk pace to our next stop.
We get off in Spiez, where we see the local medieval castle on the way to the station.
From Spiez we are back in Thun by train in a few minutes. Like Interlaken, Thun is situated on the Aare River, which also flows through Lake Thun. The town has a nice historical centre with medieval buildings and many museums. The Castle of Thun, originally dating from the 12th century, is the dominant feature visible from afar. The castle was built on a hill above the town and offers a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside, including the nearby lake.
From Thun we take the Italian fast train and in less than an hour we get off in Visp. The train goes most of the way through a long tunnel under the Alps, the so-called Lötschberg Tunnel. This is one of the longest railway tunnels in Europe. It measures 35 km and was only opened in 2007 as part of a new section of the high-speed line between Germany and Italy. The tunnel has two separate rail routes, each running in one direction, allowing a large number of freight and passenger trains to pass between northern and southern Europe. The construction of the tunnel was very demanding and cost more than 4 billion Swiss francs, but it has greatly reduced transport times. Further proof of the technical advancement of the Swiss railways.
From Visp we change to another regional tourist train to the end of this section, Zermatt. Looking at the rock massifs all around and the debris fields of these massifs, the trees growing in them look more like splinters than towering giants.
Zermatt itself is a picturesque Swiss mountain town in the Mattertal Valley below the famous Matterhorn, which unfortunately we can't see due to overcast skies. In any case, the town is famous for its ski resorts and offers many luxury hotels and restaurants as well as tourist activities in summer and winter. There's no snow here yet, but they're getting ready for it, with electric carts driven between the sturdy wooden buildings by road workers, police, shopkeepers...
On the same way we return to Visp and after changing in Visp continue to Lausanne by direct express train.
Lausanne will welcome us again in the evening with a downpour. Fortunately, it is not permanent, so it will allow us to go to see at least the view of the Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a nice view of the whole of Lausanne at night.

Accommodation with colleagues. And tomorrow we will leave for Germany.
We say goodbye to Lausanne again in the rain early in the morning. Today's panoramic journey through the Swiss mountains will take us from Montreux, through the plains and valleys around Château-d'Oex and Gstaad, to Zweisimmen and on through the Simmental Valley to Spiez. From there, we will take fast trains to Zurich and on to Munich. The Oktoberfest is on, so we will finish our Eurotrip with another colleague in Munich at the Oktoberfest.
In Montreux we will change to the regional tourist train, which will take us to Zweisimmen. I mean, it would probably like to take us, but rather uncharacteristically for Swiss punctuality and punctuality, we stand for several dozen minutes unnecessarily somewhere at the beginning of the line for technical reasons. The technique on this section doesn't look in good condition. Anyway, despite the long delay, we somehow move forward and eventually reach Zweisimmen.
The reward for our patience are again views of the surrounding mountains, meadows and scattered farmhouses on the hills.

The rest of the way to Munich is no problem, we could have just taken a direct connection from Zurich to Munich and not made an extra change in St. Gallen, where it was harder to find a seat on the fast train, which was very busy.

Arrival in Munich in the evening, dinner together in the city and accommodation with a colleague.
It's the last weekend of Oktoberfest. We will spend the whole day in the city, mostly at the Oktoberfest, which takes place in Theresienwiese. The beer tents are packed to bursting, not only because of the drizzle. It is necessary to leave early, perhaps at 10am, otherwise it is very difficult to get in. If you are late, you have to stand in line for several dozen minutes before you are allowed into a tent.

Party all day all night with a few other friends, accommodation again at a colleague's place.
Last day of the Eurotrip, just need to get home, simply south through Linz.
What to say in conclusion?
I'm actually surprised that it took us only a few hours to organize this whole venture before we left, practically all the original plans worked well during the whole month except for a few minor things and financially the Eurotrip could be considered low cost. However, we would have spent about 5 times more than the cost of our Interrail Global Pass just on fares. It was a really intense ride, thousands of kilometres travelled, days of pure time on often varied trains, dozens of beautiful places visited in Europe in 12 countries, extraordinary memories made with extraordinary friends and colleagues and another large part of our beautiful continent discovered.
And we're not done yet, there's still a second month for smaller trips... :)
May 9, 2022:
Q: Interrail is celebrating its 50th birthday today, so it's half price. How about going on a longer train journey?
A: Right, where are we going?
Q: How about traversing almost all of Europe?
A: For a month?
Q: Buyin'! And two, for two months each!
August 17, 2022:
A: Will there be anything? Shall we go?
Quick call, design the skeleton of the trip, figure out what colleagues and friends we can meet where along the way, and we'll figure out the rest as we go.
September 4, 2022:
Wrap up the loom for the month and all that's left to do is activate our Interrail Global Pass and we can board the first train.
Over the next month we will ride on at least hundred different trains of varying quality in many EU countries, travel thousands of kilometres, visit dozens of places in Europe and meet many colleagues and friends. Our first train is already on the platform, so let's get on, it's going to be a ride! (And a little cruise too.
We leave early in the morning from Prague's main train station. The train takes us to Berlin, but on the way we have to take a shuttle bus from Ústí to Dresden.

At the station in Berlin we have about an hour to change to the next train to Hamburg, where we arrive in the evening after a 9-hour journey.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we will be staying with today and head downtown for dinner and a few beers together.
In the afternoon we will see part of Hamburg and in the afternoon we will move on to Denmark.
Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany and has an important port, which is one of the largest ports in Europe. It is also known for its architecture, culture and excellent gastronomy. So we have fish matjes in a bun for breakfast first thing in the morning at a fish buffet by the harbour, a very tasty local speciality that stings after last night's party, and nearby we check out the museum in the form of a submarine and the other boats moored there. The St. Pauli Tunnel under the Elbe connecting the two banks of the river is a very interesting historical technical monument. A walk along the waterfront will take you to HafenCity, a huge development project in the centre of Hamburg that is transforming the former port area into a modern district with office buildings, shops, culture and housing. Before leaving the station for Copenhagen, we also can't fail to stop at Poggenmühlenbrücke, where iconic photos of Hamburg are taken.

This time the almost five-hour connection to Copenhagen was pretty quiet, it's late summer and the people on the roads have obviously decreased.
We arrive in Kodana again in the evening. We have arranged accommodation with our colleagues (a young family) practically in the city centre, this time for two nights. We will spend the evening walking around downtown and having dinner at a taco restaurant. The prices here are very high, for a small portion of tacos one pays about 500 CZK, for a glass of beer about 300 CZK.

We have a full day to explore the beauties of Copenhagen. And in the afternoon, we'll go for a cup of coffee in Sweden.
In the morning we go to the city. We're probably too early, because the cafes haven't opened for breakfast yet. Still, we find one and plan what we would like to see today.
We start our city tour at Christiansborg. Christiansborg is the former royal palace on the peninsula of palaces (Slotsholmen) and until 1794 the royal residence of the Danish kings in Copenhagen, and nowadays the home of the Danish Parliament, the Government Office and the museum. From there, we pass numerous canals and waterways, which in turn are crossed by roads and bike paths heavily used by the city's inhabitants, to Christiania. The latter is an independent autonomous territory recognised by the Danish government and has its own rules and laws. And what an alternative centre it would be if there were no marjoram to be smelled and seen here. After the Inderhavnsbroen Bridge, we return to Nyhavn. Nyhavn is a historic port that has become a tourist attraction thanks to its picturesque houses, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. The buildings here date from the 17th and 18th centuries and were formerly used as dwellings, warehouses and workshops for shipyards. Heading further north, we pass the Marmorkirken, which is not far from the seat of the Danish royal family, Amalienborg, and reach Kastellet. Kastellet is a fortress and former military base, built in the 17th century. Today it serves as a park and tourist attraction overlooking the harbour and the city. The famous Sculpture of the Little Mermaid is also practically on the outskirts of Kastellet, which is permanently occupied by tourists. Afterwards, we return to the centre via Østre Park and Rosenborg Castle.

In the afternoon in the centre we take the train to Malmö, Sweden, so that after a few minutes in the tunnel under the sea we can enjoy a ride on the Bridge Øresundsbron over the sea between Denmark and Sweden with a view of the world farms, of which there are plenty.

In Malmö, we went for a cup of coffee at the Malmöhus Castle and Fortress, which is not far from the station and now serves as a museum and cultural centre.
After returning from Sweden, my colleagues and I went out for dinner. Then we spend the rest of the evening discussing all sorts of things over beers at another place in a fairly crowded downtown.

Transfer from Copenhagen to Bremen, where another colleague is waiting for us. Practically a full day of travelling.
We set off early in the morning, but instead of the train being emptier, it is again so crowded that we sit with other passengers without seats on the stairs by the door for practically the whole journey. It's a bit punk, but perhaps this should be the worst stretch of our entire month's travel.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we'll be staying with for two nights and head downtown for a lunch-dinner together, Chinese noodles and Thai beer. In the evening, my colleague takes us to see his Max Planck labs and we rest the rest of the day.
Today we will explore historic Bremen and in the afternoon we will also visit Bremerhaven, one of the most important European ports.
As always, we start our tour of the city today at the train station, from where we walk to check out Bremen's Central Park Bürgerpark with Parkhotel and continue on to the historic centre. After a morning coffee in the old windmill Herdentorswallmühle, we walk along the peninsula by the Weser River with its classic brick houses and head into the narrow streets by Schnoor Street. It is full of small shops, cafes and colourful houses. We save the very centre of the old town for last. The Altstadt is the oldest part of the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a number of monumental historical buildings and monuments here, such as the Gothic Town Hall, Bremen's Cathedral and the Roland Knight Statue. Not far from here is the listed Böttcherstraße, which is one of the few examples of expressionism in architecture. The brick buildings here date from 1922-1931.

The centre of Bremen can be explored in a morning. We have plenty of time, so we'll drive to nearby Bremerhaven.
In Bremerhaven we walked to the sea to see the harbour, which is very large. So just walking around the small harbour of Neuer Hafen was about two hours. Anyway, there's a lot to see here, from colourful boats, a U-boat museum, a hotel in the shape of a sailing ship, to large cargo ships, small sailing ships, locks or drawbridges. We had dinner at a local small restaurant in the Zollhaus, traditional: delicious fresh fish.
ponor
.The lifting bridge in Neuer Hafen
Back to Bremen and in the evening planning for tomorrow's full day crossing to Belgium.
Today we will have one of the most challenging crossings of the Eurotrip, from Bremen to Ghent in Belgium, where a colleague will be waiting for us. We leave early in the morning, changing at Osnabrück to the local to Hengelo. The plan was to take a direct connection to Amsterdam for a short stopover.
But in Hengelo, the first problems arose. The first train cancellations started to appear due to Dutch strikes on the railway, so we rescheduled other trains in real time. Due to the provincial nature of the region, the train connections here were also pretty bad, so we lost quite a bit of time with short transfers and finally reassessed the situation in Zwolle and instead of going to Amsterdam, we had a hard time getting to Rotterdam on a totally overcrowded train like a can of sardines, but still.
So we made a short stop at Amster instead of Rotterdam. This is exactly the magic of the Interrail Global passport!
Rotterdam is the second largest city in the Netherlands. We had about 3 hours to spend in Rotterdam, which is enough time for a short but monument-laden walk from the station to the Bridge of Erasmusbrug, where boats have a station for a sightseeing cruise on the river. Let's go for a ride, shall we?
The boat departs from Erasmusbrug along the river to the transshipments and docks with cargo ships at Pernis and returns past the former ocean-going ship SS Rotterdam, which is permanently stationed there, back to the Erasmusbrug bridge. The round trip takes about an hour and a quarter.
On the way from the boat back to the station, we also definitely have to stop at the large modern Markthal mall, a large glass-ceilinged hall of colour with many small shops. We sample a Leffe and continue by train to Antwerp.

docks and transhipment points
In Antwerp, we only briefly change trains for the last connection to Ghent today, so we have time to at least see the impressive historic station, which, in addition to its historical and artistic value, is also unique for its vertical arrangement of platforms one above the other.

Arrival in Ghent at night and accommodation with a colleague.
Today, we'll take a look at Brussels and then the Belgian countryside.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium and one of the most important centres of the European Union. It has a rich history, which is reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. It's a short drive from Ghent. We start our walk around the city near the station, on the gilded Grand Place, considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world. We continue through the sometimes unpleasantly smelly alleyways to the Manneken pis statue of the Peeing Boy, which has just been vandalised with yellow paint, perhaps in relation to the war in Ukraine. Less well known is the Statue of the Peeing Girl Jaenneke pis, which is pretty well hidden among the restaurants, cafes and bars with the ubiquitous Belgian beer.
Walking past the Cathedral we came to see the modern quarter, the other face of Brussels near Leopold Park, where the Parliamentarium complex houses the European Parliament. All in glass, modern buildings, marble. And in the park, statues of ostriches with their heads in the sand. Then on the way back to the station we saw the Belgian Royal Palace and the adjacent churches and parks in the Mont des Arts area.

In the afternoon we went to see another colleague who lives in the Belgian countryside near Court St Étienne. There are several days of celebrations going on there, so we spent the evening in the village at the fair, with cars and a shooting range as usual in the Czech countryside. The evening programme then included an interesting improvisational rhetorical duel between two teams who entertained the audience with professionally improvised sketches on given topics.

Today we will explore the historic city of Bruges and in the afternoon we will return to the university city of Ghent.
Bruggy is a historic town that, like the Venice of the North, boasts magnificent medieval buildings and water canals. In the past it was a important commercial centre and is now a popular tourist destination. Highlights include the Gothic Town Hall with the Belfried Tower, the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where the relics of Jesus Christ are kept, and one of the largest squares in Belgium, the hectare-long Markt Square.
To the centre we start from the train station, walk through Minnewaterpark to the Beijing Court, Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde. These are white-plastered houses from the 17th to 18th centuries, now belonging to a women's Benedictine convent and located in a quiet corner of one of the water channels. Passing the important brick Church of Our Lady, we reach the heart of Bruges, the Markt Square. The square is dominated by the aforementioned Gothic tower with its tall tower, as well as by the coloured brick houses. A walk further on takes you to the north-eastern edge of the historic centre to the Dampoort and the outer canal, around which there is a row of several old windmills in the adjacent hilltop park. These are 18th-century windmills that were once used to process grain.

windmills
It takes about half a day to explore the historic centre of Bruges. So we move again through the centre to the train station and continue to Ghent.
Gent, located in the Belgian region of East Flanders, is one of the most beautiful cities in Belgium. It has a rich history, which can be seen when walking through the narrow streets of the historic centre of the city. Medieval architecture can be seen in many places, including churches, cathedrals and castles. Ghent is also known as the City of the Three Towers because the landmarks of the centre are the large towers of Belfort (the bell tower), Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavon's Cathedral) and Sint-Niklaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church). Another interesting monument is the medieval castle Gravensteen, which was built in the 12th century and served as the residence of the counts and later as a prison. Of course, Ghent is also known for its rich culinary scene, offering many kinds of Belgian beers.
After an early evening stroll around the centre and dinner with colleagues, it was dark. Ghent had been transformed into an illuminated Belgian gem, and we were keen to explore Night Ghent again. I mean bike, this transport is very popular here.

Accommodation again at my colleague's place, tomorrow early morning departure to France.
Crossing from Ghent to Órleans with a short stop and change in Paris.
With the help of a few local trains we get to Lille, from there we take an express train to Amiens and finally another one to Paris at Paris Nord station.
The train to Órleans will take us from Paris Austerlitz station, which is at the other end of central Paris. We have about 4 hours to change trains, so we decide to walk through the centre with our luggage. We have several interesting sights along the way. The first one not far from the station is the church of St. Vincent. We weave our way through streets crowded with cars and people between apartment buildings in the regular and uniform development of the northern part of downtown Paris. Next on the route is the Park Jardin du Palais-Royal, and the adjacent Palais Royal, from which it is only a short walk to the landmark of all Paris, the famous Louvre. We will walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the Little and Grand Palais, from where the Invalides and another landmark of Paris, the Eiffel Tower are in sight. We don't want to go any further in this direction, because Austerlitz station is on the other side. So we continue along the Seine past the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is still being repaired after a fire in 2019.

4 hours is, of course, not enough for Paris, you can hardly walk from one station to another through the whole centre and at least see a few landmarks of the centre. But we've been to Paris a few times, so that's not our main goal today, we're just changing trains. The destination is Orleans, where we are to meet our host for today, who we found and arranged through Couchsurfing.
Órleans is a pretty small, but all the more beautiful historical town. Our host lives practically in the centre. We check in and then head out together for dinner and drinks on the bustling Rue de Bourgogne, where most of the best local cafes, restaurants, bars and other nightlife venues are concentrated. This is to keep the rest of the city from getting disturbed at night.

After a few days, we don't have to rush anywhere this morning, so the morning is mostly relaxing, with a good brunch after a walk around the centre. In the afternoon we leave Orleans and continue along the Loire River to Tours, where our next Couchsurfing hosts are waiting for us. In the meantime, we stop at two chateaux on the Loire, in the towns of Blois and Amboise.
Orleans is located on the Loire River. The town is especially famous for its historical importance during the Hundred Years' War. The most famous event associated with the town is the rescue of Órleans by the French national heroine, Johan of Arc, in 1429. The locals are obviously very proud of her, with symbols and references to Joan at every turn in the town. The town's architectural landmark is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, one of the largest cathedrals in France.
We're going to Blois. The station is practically in the centre of the town, so we will need about an hour to explore the area in order to continue on in time. For a potential tour of the local castle (as with all castles on the Loire), at least an extra hour or two would need to be added.
Blois is a picturesque town in the Loire Valley, for its small size known for its beautiful architecture and historical monuments. In the centre of the city is the imposing Chateau of Blois, which was built in the 16th century and served as the seat of the kings of France. As a result, it became an important centre of art and culture, where many important artists, writers and intellectuals met. Next to the castle, there are also picturesque streets with medieval houses and the historic marble Church of St. Vincent.
We take the next local that's running right now, and get off at the next town on our hop-on : hop-off hourly tours of the local castles, Amboise. In Amboise, the station lies on one side of the broad Loire, while the town centre lies on the other. So we take a detour to the centre via the historic bridge.
Amboise is another picturesque town located on the banks of the Loire River. It is famous for its Renaissance castle, which towers over the town and offers a fine view of the surrounding countryside. It was also a favourite residence of French kings in the 16th century. The historic centre here is really small, practically just a few streets around the castle.
An hour in Amboise is again enough time for us to explore. Tours will be more interesting, so we'll go.
Tours is one of the larger towns on the Loire. The city has a long history and is full of architectural monuments such as Gothic cathedrals, Romanesque churches and Renaissance palaces. The most prominent monument is the medieval Cathedral of Saint Gatien, famous for its vitreaux and its massive bell tower. Other notable monuments include the Gothic Church of Saint Martin or the Renaissance Palace of the Bishops of Tours. The historic centre of Vieux Tours is a gem in itself, full of winding narrow streets with gently crowded houses. We take a night stroll through the entire centre and on the banks of the Loire sit in a larger garden for a public event of mostly locals by the illuminated bridge.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
And today we will be staying in Tours with our Couchsurfing family. We will make the most of our Interrail Global pass. Early in the morning, we will drive to another town among the chateaux and castles on the Loire and in the wider area, Angers, and on the way back to Tours we will visit other smaller ones, in Saumur and Langeais, which are excellently accessible by train.
Angers lies on the River Maine, but practically on the edge of the town flows the Loire, into which the Maine empties. It is the capital city of the Maine-et-Loire region. It is best known for its castle, the Château d'Angers, which was built in the 9th century and served as a royal residence. Today, the castle is a tourist attraction and home to a museum. The Cathedral of St. Maurice is also worth mentioning, where rare polychromes have recently been discovered and are currently being reconstructed. Otherwise, Angers is also a wine-growing town, where the Chenin blanc grape variety is cultivated and used in the production of the famous wines of Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Saumur.

Two hours is enough for Angers, we are moving to Saumur.
Saumur is probably the most picturesque town on the Loire that we visited here. The dominant feature of the town is Saumur Castle, which rises on top of a hill above the town. This imposing castle was built in the 10th century and was later rebuilt in Renaissance style. The Historic Quarter with its narrow streets and houses dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Saumur is also famous for its horse schools, where classical riding and traditional French horsemanship are taught.
Langeais is a small town, perhaps even a village, with excellent train accessibility that one would almost miss on a map. Yet the local castle, built in the 15th century, is one of the most well-preserved castles in the Loire Valley. It is one of the few castles in the area that was not completely destroyed during the French Revolution. Perhaps because it was overlooked on the map by the revolutionaries and soldiers.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
We have a weekend ahead of us, which we intend to spend with colleagues in and around the Gulf of Morbihan and at sea on a sailboat. The destination of today's trip is therefore the small town of Sarzeau, where we will meet everyone one evening at a time. We will thus leave Tours early in the morning to Vannes by train, stopping en route for lunch and a tour of the beautiful centre in Nantes, the capital of the Pays de la Loire region.
We leave Tours early in the morning, with a change in Angers.

When you arrive in Nantes, the first thing that greets you is the Jardin des Plantes just opposite the train station, a botanical garden with more than 11,000 species of plants from all over the world, which serves as a research and education centre. We continue past the Catholic Church of St. Clément to the Isle of Versailles on the River Erdre, home to a Japanese-style park and museum. Like being back in Japan, the park is really convincing. We pass by the small water area Bassin de Ceineray, where the entire Erdre River disappears into a tunnel under the center, where smaller vessels can get to the Loire - if they wait for the green light. Before lunch, we also reach one of France's most beautiful basilicas, St. Nicholas Basilica. Other notable sights in Nantes include the Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which is just being rebuilt after a fire in 2020. We saved the city's jewel for last, the 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne, which was once the residence of the Dukes of Brittany, Anne of Brittany and her father, Francis II
Other interesting sites in the city that we missed today but are worth checking out include the Military Museum of Maillé-Brézé in the form of a permanently moored military ship, or the art, culture and tourism project Les Machines des Nantes. The project was created by the art group La Machine as part of the regeneration of a former industrial area on the banks of the Loire. The interactive project consists of giant steampunk mechanical machines that are powered by hydraulics and electric motors. The most famous of these machines is probably the Big Elephant. In the former industrial area there is also a large steampunk carousel or one of the icons of Nantes, the old yellow Titan crane.

Japanese Gardens
river tunnel
In the evening we leave Nantes by train to Vannes, where a colleague will pick us up by car and we will drive to our accommodation together.
We'll swap the train for the whole weekend for a boat, a small sailboat. Today we'll go to Quiberon for a bite to eat.
We refuel and leave the port of Arzon. We sail part of the way to Quiberon on a butterfly, part on a crosswind, but as unfortunately it doesn't blow much, we end up packing up the sails and just bubbling along on the engine until we get to Quiberon harbour.

Thankfully, it doesn't take anything away from the comfort on board.

We're anchored in the harbour and we're going for a walk. The inner harbour is virtually inaccessible at low tide.
After coffee and a traditional Breton pancake, we head back to Arzon. This time we don't even put the sails up and we go on the motor.

In the evening, we will stop at the Suscinio Castle, which has been undergoing renovation for the last few years and is thus getting its original appearance. The castle was built in the 13th century and served as the summer residence of the Breton dukes.
Today, we will dock so that with sunrise we can head out into Morbihan Bay, which is best accessed only at certain hours according to the tide. These phenomena are very intense here, and because of the very complex geography of the whole area with only one channel from the sea to the bay, there are many treacherous currents, which vary greatly in time just according to the tides. At certain times of the day, it is impossible to even get to some places, with a river flowing against the boat instead of a calm sea, as the water moves from the sea into the vast bay or vice versa. Alternatively, temporarily, instead of a few feet of water under the keel, rocks are just sticking out of the water. But we have a locally knowledgeable sea bass on board, so we have no trouble venturing to the island of Île-aux-Moines, the largest island in the Morbihan, which is the destination of today's trip.
Sunrise at the port of Arzon. Nobody's there. Only hungry seagulls combing the calm waters.

We navigated through all the currents and eddies with quite a few sport fishing boats around in the morning. I guess the fish are biting.
Monks Island is surrounded by small rocky islands and ever-changing coves and is popular for its picturesque nature and beaches. There are several old churches and chapels on the island, mostly with naval decoration, which is generally common in Brittany. There is also a museum and an archaeological site documenting the history of the island from prehistoric times to the present day. Tourists like to come here for day hiking or cycling, probably preferably on the very short ferry from Port Blanc, to enjoy the local nature and views of the surrounding countryside. After exploring the town on the island, we couldn't miss the opportunity to have the traditional Breton speciality, banana galettes, here too. These are pancakes with typical fillings such as cheese, ham, eggs, vegetables, seafood or mushrooms in various combinations.
We then leave the harbour and drive around the entire island back to Arzon.

The weekend at sea is over, the boat is anchored in the home port, so we pack our things and continue with our colleagues by car to Rennes.
Accommodation at one of our colleagues' place, from where we will leave early tomorrow morning for the south of France. Our last evening together, so we'll review the whole weekend over a good wine. It was a good one, it just could have been windier.
A full day crossing southwest France from Rennes to Bordeaux.
Transfer in Nantes, from there to Bordeaux by French IC.
The edge of good red wine is already making its presence felt.

Arrival in the afternoon, accommodation with colleagues for two nights.
A full day tour of Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is famous for its wine regions and its historic centre. The town centre, which was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2007, offers a number of historical sites.
We start today at the historic Dijeaux Gate with the symbols of the city (lion, leopard, bell, sickle), which serves as the entrance to the commercial streets in the city centre. Passing the large Mollat bookshop and the Grand Theatre opposite the prominent Hotel Intercontinental, we reach the Place des Quinconces. This is one of the largest squares in Europe, covering around 25 hectares. In the square there are two large fountains, statues of important French personalities and the Monument aux Girondins column in memory of the Girondist deputies who were victims of the Jacobin terror. We continue past the Garonne river, which is today as always brown coloured with fine mud. The silty fine clay soil is ubiquitous throughout the Bordeaux area and gives the local wines their unique character. You can learn more about them at the Museum Cité du vin, housed in a modern building shaped like a wine decanter, just opposite the unique Jacques Chaban-Delmas Bridge, which rises vertically and is the largest of its kind in Europe.
After lunch at the newly opened restaurant market on the Esplanade de Pontac near the old shipyards and submarine docks, which have their own charm of rust, brown mud and moored vessels, we return to the centre. We wander through the glitzy streets full of life, restaurants and cafes, where again we have to try a little something - cheesecake, coffee or a glass of rosé? Past the Gate of the Grosse cloche (Great Bell) we then continue to the cathedral. The richly decorated St. Andrew's Cathedral is one of the largest Romanesque buildings in France. Just across the street from it, we peek into the Hotel de ville, the town hall. For dinner, my colleagues and I go for what else but the local traditional specialty, meat with saucebordelaise, which is a red wine sauce with onions, parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns. This dish is often served with chips and local wine. We then finish the day with a stroll through Night Bordeaux.

Accommodation with colleagues, tomorrow early morning departure further south.
A full day transfer from Bordeaux to Barcelona.
Early in the morning we leave for Narbonne, where we have about 2 hours for a quick walk around the city.
For how small Narbonne is, it is historically quite significant and interesting from a tourist point of view. It was founded by the Romans as a port on the Mediterranean, and at its height was one of the most important cities in the area. In the city centre there are several monuments such as the Bishop's Palace, the Romanesque Church of St. Paul, but above all the Gothic Cathedral of St. Justus and St. Pastor. Originally dating from the 13th century, the building has remained unfinished since the Middle Ages, and the original completed choir with gallery is used as a church. At 41 metres, it is one of the tallest in France.

Roman archaeological monuments
We continue by train to Perpignan, a lake on the border with Spain. We want to continue via Port Bou along the coast to Barcelona, but the following train at Perpignan is cancelled and not running. Could it be the strikes in Spain? Or just Spanish mania? Anyway, because of the schedule-reality mismatch, we waste several hours dealing with the replacement service. In the end, after waiting for a few hours with others at the counters and debating the tickets, we decide to take at least the last free TGV express train to Barcelona today for an extra 12 euros or so. So we arrive in Barcelona at around 10pm, are picked up by a colleague at the big main Sants highway, and just manage to have a late dinner at a traditional Spanish restaurant and a beer together before midnight.
Accommodation at a colleague's place, in the morning continuing on to Valencia as our current main destination - Barcelona just passing through.
Moving from Barcelona to Valencia. But while we're in Barcelona, we'll take a detour to at least see the Sagrada Familia. We'll save the rest of the surely beautiful Barcelona for another day.
Sagrada Familia is the most important building in Barcelona and the most famous work of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The building is located in the city centre and its construction was started in 1882, but still has not been completed. The temple is magnificent, distinguished above all by its decorative towers and a façade full of sculptural details, which Gaudí expressed in an organic style. The Sagrada Familia has become a symbol of Barcelona. And we move on.
From the metro, we take the many, many escalators from the heart of the Earth to Sants station and, with a change at Aldea-Amposta (which is a little station with nothing around), we are on half-empty trains in Valencia in the afternoon. It's a pity they run so infrequently (only a couple of times a day) when they are quite spacious, comfortable and one can enjoy the view of the sea in places.
So Valencia welcomes us with nice weather. We'll stroll through the beautifully clean and tidy historical centre, where our feet will take us today (it's close to everywhere, the centre is pretty compact), do some grocery shopping, and later have dinner together with one of the colleagues we'll be staying with. We'll leave the proper sightseeing for the next few days, we'll be here for three nights, so there will be plenty of time.

historical city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
We've been on the road for over two weeks, so today will be a totally relaxing day, it's high time to stop a bit. In the morning, we rent bikes for the day at one of the many rental shops and ride up to one of the city's sandy beaches, the quiet Malvarrosa Beach, where we'll spend virtually the entire day doing nothing. Even that is necessary sometimes.
We start in the centre near the train station, where we rent bikes. Through the centre of Valencia, which lies in a former bend of the Turia River, we drive north of the centre to the large Jardín del Túria Park, which stretches for over 9km in the original riverbed. This original riverbed was in fact relocated south of the city in the second half of the twentieth century after the tragic floods and floods of 1957, which claimed around a thousand victims. The Jardín del Túria Park, which was thus created and through which all the bridges still pass, is thus one of the largest urban parks in Europe, ideal for cycling or for other sports that many people like to practice here. Then, at the eastern end of the park in the City of Arts and Sciences is the Oceanárium, the largest public aquarium in Europe, past which we continue on to Malvarrosa Beach and Playa de las Arenas, and will be returning this way in the evening.

Park after the relocated river around the city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
It's Saturday, time for a proper tour of the city. We've seen a lot already, but today we'll discover more interesting places with our colleague who knows the place very well and will be with us all day.
We start in the Jardins del Real, where wild parrots fly and chatter above us. We'll walk to another Park del Parterre, where the statue of Jaume I, James I, stands in the middle. Aragon, and several ancient sprawling pine trees. From here we walk to the centre, where a bat, one of the emblems of Valencia, can be seen on one of the houses. The rococo Palazzo del Marqués de Dos Aguas with its displays of ceramics is definitely worth noting along the way. Not far from here is Square Redona, a round area with several stalls forming a pleasant little market. Opposite the picturesque Gothic church of Santa Catalina is a house that was once a separate housing unit and boasts the lowest facade in Europe. Today, however, it is part of the house next door. We stop here at horchateria Santa Catalina, a renowned traditional establishment for the sole purpose of sampling the local delicacies horchata and farton. Horchata is a milk-like drink that tastes like carrots, but is made from tiger nuts. And farton is an elongated sweet pastry that is dipped in horchata. After a snack, we continue on to the Central Market, where you can get almost any local food. Just opposite the market is the Llotja de la Seda, a gothic UNESCO monument with free admission, where the silk trade used to flourish, and where the Silk Road ended. The great hall is exceptional, with its high columns and stunning ceiling, which used to be painted with stars. Next, we walk to the Gate of Quart and later to the Gate of Serranos, which used to serve as a prison and were therefore spared demolition when the city's fortifications were torn down. Both gates can be climbed (free entry) to look around Valencia.

park Parterre se sochou Jaume I
bone, the house with the narrowest facade and hot water heaters
In the evening, we meet a colleague and drive south of Valencia to the Albufera Nature Reserve. We pass several lakes and ponds to see the strangely yellow sea, and then watch the sun set over Valencia from the locals' favourite viewpoint de la Gola del Pujol on the shores of Lake Albufera.
Albufera beaches
small dock and viewpoint
Accommodation with colleagues, from tomorrow we start to return to the Czech Republic.
Distance-wise, today we have probably the longest crossing, a full day move from Valencia as far north as possible. We have arranged accommodation via Couchsurfing in Nîmes, but this falls at midday, because unlike in Barcelona this morning, we can't get last-minute reservations on the fast train, so we don't make our arranged dinner with our hostess and arrive in Nîmes on the regional trains until late at night. Holt doesn't always work out - the Spanish railways are not exactly organisationally and systemically friendly. Seeking reservations in the Spanish train system is a bit more complicated than in the seamless online reservation systems of France and other Midwestern European countries.
A quick departure on the high speed train which gets us to Barcelona in about 3 hours. Mandatory reservation was easily arranged just before departure at the station for a few euros.
However, the Sants station is busy and almost all the express trains are sold out, so we are forced to take regional trains instead of the planned express train. At least the check-in counters here are fast and the rail staff are nice. So we take the metro to the San Andres station and from there continue at a slower pace to Port Bou.



If we didn't make it to Port Bou on the way south, we're at least making it on the way back north, albeit involuntarily this time. So the mythical Port Bou has been humbled, and in celebration of victory over the Spanish train system (which of all Europe on our Eurotrip, Spain was the least functional) and the joy of it, of returning to normal functioning France, we have a good Estrella beer in a small town between transfers, one of the few things that works quite well for the Spanish.

And yes, there are still those nice sea views when the track comes within sight of the coast. The stretch between Llança and Cerbere is so picturesque in the setting sun.

There is a French train leaving from Port Bou in the evening, which will take us to Nîmes in 3.5 hours.
Because of the late hour, we are staying right across the street across from the train station, which is an ideal choice for an overnight stay (and unexpectedly cheap compared to other local accommodations), as we continue along the Côte d'Azur early tomorrow morning.
Today will be packed to the brim, along the Côte d'Azur we will drive to the Italian town of Ventimiglia, explore the seaside and foothill principality of Monaco and spend the evening in French Nice.
We leave Nîmes early in the morning and with a change in Marseille we are in Nice for lunch.
We will leave our luggage at our accommodation near the train station and continue along the coast, returning sometime at night.

The Côte d'Azur, often referred to as the French Riviera, stretches from Marseille to the Italian border. The train line from Nice to Italy winds between rocks, through small and large tunnels, and often overlooks the sea from the train. You can also enjoy the beautiful coastline, the azure blue sea and the sunshine from the train. In some places it even looks as if the train is hovering directly over the sea.
The first major destination today is the town of Ventimiglia practically just over the border with France at the southern end of the Alps. The historic centre, on a hilltop on the western bank of the Roia River flowing into the sea, is a compact building of colourful houses, its centre dominated by the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral of St Mary Assunta. From this hill, you have a nice view of the entire city, the coastline with its beaches and harbours, or the mountains that tower over the city. And even in such a provincial town, they make excellent ice cream here. Holt Italy!

After two hours in Vemtimiglia, during which time the whole town can be walked around in peace, we return the same way by train back to France. I don't usually like to take the same route twice, but these views of the sea never get old. Especially when the sun is just starting to set.
Even on the slower local trains, it's all close together; within minutes we're in Monaco's only train station. And you know it as soon as you peer out of the train window - unlike other stations, Monaco - Monte Carlo is all in the rock and at first glance it is opulent and luxurious, clean and tidy, made of modern materials.
Monaco covers an area of just 2.02km², so we had no problem covering most of it in less than two hours. Luxury, casinos and drama can be seen and felt at every turn. We'll head straight to the rock outcropping, home to Monaco's greatest pearls, the Royal Palace, St. Nicholas Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum. And of course the breathtaking views of the surrounding area full of grand buildings and yachts. Plus, we caught the sunset perfectly, so it's a great sight to see both early evening and nighttime Monaco. Through the Harbor of Hercules we can also see, for example, the glowing buildings of the Casinas of Monte Carlo.
The rest of the evening will be spent in Nice again. We will walk through the centre, past the Statues of Apollo in the Masséna Square to the city's long Opera Beach and walk along it to the top with a park on the site of the former castle. We will also wander through the streets of the old town of Vieux Nice.

walk around the beach
streets of the old town
Accommodation via Booking near the train station.
A full day crossing from Nice to Lausanne.
Short transfer in Marseille, direct connection to Lyon.

From Lyon we continue by direct train to Geneva.
In Switzerland, the warm and nice summer weather is coming to an end, and Geneva welcomes us with overcast skies. We change trains for Laussane, where it is already raining. And depending on the weather, it will rain for the next few days, during which we plan to stay in Switzerland. Just great.
Accommodation with colleagues in Laussane for the next three nights.
Since it's raining, it's supposed to rain, and it's going to rain for our entire stay in Switzerland, we'll use the next few days not so much to hang out in the rain in the cities (or only occasionally), but to cross as much of the Swiss mountains as possible by train, now that we have our Interrail Global Pass. Because it doesn't rain on the trains (especially the comfortable Swiss ones), we'll spend virtually the entirety of the following days in them.
Early in the morning, we have a big circuit from Lausanne via Sion, Brig, Andermatt, Lucerne and Bern back to Lausanne.
On the Brig we change from a regular express train to a regional tourist train, which is designed for difficult mountain terrain and from which it is possible to observe the interesting Swiss mountains on the stretch to Andermatt. There is also one of the more well-known trains, the Glacier Express, which unlike the regular regional trains is considerably more expensive, with mandatory reservations or the option to have a meal on board, but you can see virtually the same things from this train as from a regular train.





In Andermatt we change to another regional train, which takes us within minutes to nearby Göschenen.
It's a very hilly trail, like many other mountain sections the passability is ensured by using toothpicks on the train. One wonders where the train can get here.
In Göschenen we wait for the express train, which is just coming in and out of the fifteen-kilometre tunnel under the mountain massifs. The technical design of the Swiss railways is truly admirable. With a further change at Altdorf we get to Luzern.
Until we got to Lucerne, the weather was quite calm all day with only a sprinkle of rain. In Lucerne, however, it was so rainy that it would not chase away a dog. But it wouldn't be us if we didn't take a peek into the centre of this historic city, despite the bad weather.
Luzern lies on the shores of Lake Luzernsee, from which the River Reuss flows through the centre of the city. Its water is incredibly clear and glacially blue. There are also several important old wooden bridges across the river in the beautiful historic part of the city, especially the Kapellbrücke Bridge, which is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe and a major tourist attraction.
After a quick tour of Lucerne, we then take the fast train back to Lausanne, where it is raining quite heavily again in the evening.
Accommodation with colleagues.
Today's circuit through Switzerland will be much smaller than yesterday's. We've discovered that the Interrail Global Pass includes a ticket on selected boat services on some Swiss lakes. And since one of these lakes is Thunersee, and with a recommendation from our hosts, it's a done deal. We'll go for a ride on the lake, explore the city of Thun and take another regional tourist train to the winter resort of Zermatt, maybe see the Matterhorn. Okay, yes, we won't, it's raining, it is and it's going to be cloudy... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Transfer in Bern and another in Thun.
We're on our way back from Interlaken, just passing through now.
Within a few more tens of minutes we get off at Interlaken West. The town is named after its location, situated between two lakes - Brienzersee and Thunersee. We board at the dock practically right next to the station and within moments the boat pulls out onto Thunersee and we are off on a cruise with stops on both sides of the lake.
Thunersee is one of the most beautiful lakes in Switzerland. It is 17 km long and up to 3.5 km wide. The lake is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, mountains and hills, villages and towns. It is widely used for water sports and recreation. In addition, Thunersee is a popular tourist destination for the beautiful views of the picturesque mountain landscape it offers both from the shore and from the sometimes incredibly blue surface of the lake. Pendulating in the fresh, cold wind between the two picturesque shores, now the captain stops on the left, now on the right shore, we pull up to the shore, the crew anchors, passengers get on and off, and within minutes we are off again at a brisk pace to our next stop.
We get off in Spiez, where we see the local medieval castle on the way to the station.
From Spiez we are back in Thun by train in a few minutes. Like Interlaken, Thun is situated on the Aare River, which also flows through Lake Thun. The town has a nice historical centre with medieval buildings and many museums. The Castle of Thun, originally dating from the 12th century, is the dominant feature visible from afar. The castle was built on a hill above the town and offers a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside, including the nearby lake.
From Thun we take the Italian fast train and in less than an hour we get off in Visp. The train goes most of the way through a long tunnel under the Alps, the so-called Lötschberg Tunnel. This is one of the longest railway tunnels in Europe. It measures 35 km and was only opened in 2007 as part of a new section of the high-speed line between Germany and Italy. The tunnel has two separate rail routes, each running in one direction, allowing a large number of freight and passenger trains to pass between northern and southern Europe. The construction of the tunnel was very demanding and cost more than 4 billion Swiss francs, but it has greatly reduced transport times. Further proof of the technical advancement of the Swiss railways.
From Visp we change to another regional tourist train to the end of this section, Zermatt. Looking at the rock massifs all around and the debris fields of these massifs, the trees growing in them look more like splinters than towering giants.
Zermatt itself is a picturesque Swiss mountain town in the Mattertal Valley below the famous Matterhorn, which unfortunately we can't see due to overcast skies. In any case, the town is famous for its ski resorts and offers many luxury hotels and restaurants as well as tourist activities in summer and winter. There's no snow here yet, but they're getting ready for it, with electric carts driven between the sturdy wooden buildings by road workers, police, shopkeepers...
On the same way we return to Visp and after changing in Visp continue to Lausanne by direct express train.
Lausanne will welcome us again in the evening with a downpour. Fortunately, it is not permanent, so it will allow us to go to see at least the view of the Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a nice view of the whole of Lausanne at night.

Accommodation with colleagues. And tomorrow we will leave for Germany.
We say goodbye to Lausanne again in the rain early in the morning. Today's panoramic journey through the Swiss mountains will take us from Montreux, through the plains and valleys around Château-d'Oex and Gstaad, to Zweisimmen and on through the Simmental Valley to Spiez. From there, we will take fast trains to Zurich and on to Munich. The Oktoberfest is on, so we will finish our Eurotrip with another colleague in Munich at the Oktoberfest.
In Montreux we will change to the regional tourist train, which will take us to Zweisimmen. I mean, it would probably like to take us, but rather uncharacteristically for Swiss punctuality and punctuality, we stand for several dozen minutes unnecessarily somewhere at the beginning of the line for technical reasons. The technique on this section doesn't look in good condition. Anyway, despite the long delay, we somehow move forward and eventually reach Zweisimmen.
The reward for our patience are again views of the surrounding mountains, meadows and scattered farmhouses on the hills.

The rest of the way to Munich is no problem, we could have just taken a direct connection from Zurich to Munich and not made an extra change in St. Gallen, where it was harder to find a seat on the fast train, which was very busy.

Arrival in Munich in the evening, dinner together in the city and accommodation with a colleague.
It's the last weekend of Oktoberfest. We will spend the whole day in the city, mostly at the Oktoberfest, which takes place in Theresienwiese. The beer tents are packed to bursting, not only because of the drizzle. It is necessary to leave early, perhaps at 10am, otherwise it is very difficult to get in. If you are late, you have to stand in line for several dozen minutes before you are allowed into a tent.

Party all day all night with a few other friends, accommodation again at a colleague's place.
Last day of the Eurotrip, just need to get home, simply south through Linz.
What to say in conclusion?
I'm actually surprised that it took us only a few hours to organize this whole venture before we left, practically all the original plans worked well during the whole month except for a few minor things and financially the Eurotrip could be considered low cost. However, we would have spent about 5 times more than the cost of our Interrail Global Pass just on fares. It was a really intense ride, thousands of kilometres travelled, days of pure time on often varied trains, dozens of beautiful places visited in Europe in 12 countries, extraordinary memories made with extraordinary friends and colleagues and another large part of our beautiful continent discovered.
And we're not done yet, there's still a second month for smaller trips... :)
May 9, 2022:
Q: Interrail is celebrating its 50th birthday today, so it's half price. How about going on a longer train journey?
A: Right, where are we going?
Q: How about traversing almost all of Europe?
A: For a month?
Q: Buyin'! And two, for two months each!
August 17, 2022:
A: Will there be anything? Shall we go?
Quick call, design the skeleton of the trip, figure out what colleagues and friends we can meet where along the way, and we'll figure out the rest as we go.
September 4, 2022:
Wrap up the loom for the month and all that's left to do is activate our Interrail Global Pass and we can board the first train.
Over the next month we will ride on at least hundred different trains of varying quality in many EU countries, travel thousands of kilometres, visit dozens of places in Europe and meet many colleagues and friends. Our first train is already on the platform, so let's get on, it's going to be a ride! (And a little cruise too.
We leave early in the morning from Prague's main train station. The train takes us to Berlin, but on the way we have to take a shuttle bus from Ústí to Dresden.

At the station in Berlin we have about an hour to change to the next train to Hamburg, where we arrive in the evening after a 9-hour journey.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we will be staying with today and head downtown for dinner and a few beers together.
In the afternoon we will see part of Hamburg and in the afternoon we will move on to Denmark.
Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany and has an important port, which is one of the largest ports in Europe. It is also known for its architecture, culture and excellent gastronomy. So we have fish matjes in a bun for breakfast first thing in the morning at a fish buffet by the harbour, a very tasty local speciality that stings after last night's party, and nearby we check out the museum in the form of a submarine and the other boats moored there. The St. Pauli Tunnel under the Elbe connecting the two banks of the river is a very interesting historical technical monument. A walk along the waterfront will take you to HafenCity, a huge development project in the centre of Hamburg that is transforming the former port area into a modern district with office buildings, shops, culture and housing. Before leaving the station for Copenhagen, we also can't fail to stop at Poggenmühlenbrücke, where iconic photos of Hamburg are taken.

This time the almost five-hour connection to Copenhagen was pretty quiet, it's late summer and the people on the roads have obviously decreased.
We arrive in Kodana again in the evening. We have arranged accommodation with our colleagues (a young family) practically in the city centre, this time for two nights. We will spend the evening walking around downtown and having dinner at a taco restaurant. The prices here are very high, for a small portion of tacos one pays about 500 CZK, for a glass of beer about 300 CZK.

We have a full day to explore the beauties of Copenhagen. And in the afternoon, we'll go for a cup of coffee in Sweden.
In the morning we go to the city. We're probably too early, because the cafes haven't opened for breakfast yet. Still, we find one and plan what we would like to see today.
We start our city tour at Christiansborg. Christiansborg is the former royal palace on the peninsula of palaces (Slotsholmen) and until 1794 the royal residence of the Danish kings in Copenhagen, and nowadays the home of the Danish Parliament, the Government Office and the museum. From there, we pass numerous canals and waterways, which in turn are crossed by roads and bike paths heavily used by the city's inhabitants, to Christiania. The latter is an independent autonomous territory recognised by the Danish government and has its own rules and laws. And what an alternative centre it would be if there were no marjoram to be smelled and seen here. After the Inderhavnsbroen Bridge, we return to Nyhavn. Nyhavn is a historic port that has become a tourist attraction thanks to its picturesque houses, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. The buildings here date from the 17th and 18th centuries and were formerly used as dwellings, warehouses and workshops for shipyards. Heading further north, we pass the Marmorkirken, which is not far from the seat of the Danish royal family, Amalienborg, and reach Kastellet. Kastellet is a fortress and former military base, built in the 17th century. Today it serves as a park and tourist attraction overlooking the harbour and the city. The famous Sculpture of the Little Mermaid is also practically on the outskirts of Kastellet, which is permanently occupied by tourists. Afterwards, we return to the centre via Østre Park and Rosenborg Castle.

In the afternoon in the centre we take the train to Malmö, Sweden, so that after a few minutes in the tunnel under the sea we can enjoy a ride on the Bridge Øresundsbron over the sea between Denmark and Sweden with a view of the world farms, of which there are plenty.

In Malmö, we went for a cup of coffee at the Malmöhus Castle and Fortress, which is not far from the station and now serves as a museum and cultural centre.
After returning from Sweden, my colleagues and I went out for dinner. Then we spend the rest of the evening discussing all sorts of things over beers at another place in a fairly crowded downtown.

Transfer from Copenhagen to Bremen, where another colleague is waiting for us. Practically a full day of travelling.
We set off early in the morning, but instead of the train being emptier, it is again so crowded that we sit with other passengers without seats on the stairs by the door for practically the whole journey. It's a bit punk, but perhaps this should be the worst stretch of our entire month's travel.

In the evening, we meet up with the colleague we'll be staying with for two nights and head downtown for a lunch-dinner together, Chinese noodles and Thai beer. In the evening, my colleague takes us to see his Max Planck labs and we rest the rest of the day.
Today we will explore historic Bremen and in the afternoon we will also visit Bremerhaven, one of the most important European ports.
As always, we start our tour of the city today at the train station, from where we walk to check out Bremen's Central Park Bürgerpark with Parkhotel and continue on to the historic centre. After a morning coffee in the old windmill Herdentorswallmühle, we walk along the peninsula by the Weser River with its classic brick houses and head into the narrow streets by Schnoor Street. It is full of small shops, cafes and colourful houses. We save the very centre of the old town for last. The Altstadt is the oldest part of the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a number of monumental historical buildings and monuments here, such as the Gothic Town Hall, Bremen's Cathedral and the Roland Knight Statue. Not far from here is the listed Böttcherstraße, which is one of the few examples of expressionism in architecture. The brick buildings here date from 1922-1931.

The centre of Bremen can be explored in a morning. We have plenty of time, so we'll drive to nearby Bremerhaven.
In Bremerhaven we walked to the sea to see the harbour, which is very large. So just walking around the small harbour of Neuer Hafen was about two hours. Anyway, there's a lot to see here, from colourful boats, a U-boat museum, a hotel in the shape of a sailing ship, to large cargo ships, small sailing ships, locks or drawbridges. We had dinner at a local small restaurant in the Zollhaus, traditional: delicious fresh fish.
ponor
.The lifting bridge in Neuer Hafen
Back to Bremen and in the evening planning for tomorrow's full day crossing to Belgium.
Today we will have one of the most challenging crossings of the Eurotrip, from Bremen to Ghent in Belgium, where a colleague will be waiting for us. We leave early in the morning, changing at Osnabrück to the local to Hengelo. The plan was to take a direct connection to Amsterdam for a short stopover.
But in Hengelo, the first problems arose. The first train cancellations started to appear due to Dutch strikes on the railway, so we rescheduled other trains in real time. Due to the provincial nature of the region, the train connections here were also pretty bad, so we lost quite a bit of time with short transfers and finally reassessed the situation in Zwolle and instead of going to Amsterdam, we had a hard time getting to Rotterdam on a totally overcrowded train like a can of sardines, but still.
So we made a short stop at Amster instead of Rotterdam. This is exactly the magic of the Interrail Global passport!
Rotterdam is the second largest city in the Netherlands. We had about 3 hours to spend in Rotterdam, which is enough time for a short but monument-laden walk from the station to the Bridge of Erasmusbrug, where boats have a station for a sightseeing cruise on the river. Let's go for a ride, shall we?
The boat departs from Erasmusbrug along the river to the transshipments and docks with cargo ships at Pernis and returns past the former ocean-going ship SS Rotterdam, which is permanently stationed there, back to the Erasmusbrug bridge. The round trip takes about an hour and a quarter.
On the way from the boat back to the station, we also definitely have to stop at the large modern Markthal mall, a large glass-ceilinged hall of colour with many small shops. We sample a Leffe and continue by train to Antwerp.

docks and transhipment points
In Antwerp, we only briefly change trains for the last connection to Ghent today, so we have time to at least see the impressive historic station, which, in addition to its historical and artistic value, is also unique for its vertical arrangement of platforms one above the other.

Arrival in Ghent at night and accommodation with a colleague.
Today, we'll take a look at Brussels and then the Belgian countryside.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium and one of the most important centres of the European Union. It has a rich history, which is reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. It's a short drive from Ghent. We start our walk around the city near the station, on the gilded Grand Place, considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world. We continue through the sometimes unpleasantly smelly alleyways to the Manneken pis statue of the Peeing Boy, which has just been vandalised with yellow paint, perhaps in relation to the war in Ukraine. Less well known is the Statue of the Peeing Girl Jaenneke pis, which is pretty well hidden among the restaurants, cafes and bars with the ubiquitous Belgian beer.
Walking past the Cathedral we came to see the modern quarter, the other face of Brussels near Leopold Park, where the Parliamentarium complex houses the European Parliament. All in glass, modern buildings, marble. And in the park, statues of ostriches with their heads in the sand. Then on the way back to the station we saw the Belgian Royal Palace and the adjacent churches and parks in the Mont des Arts area.

In the afternoon we went to see another colleague who lives in the Belgian countryside near Court St Étienne. There are several days of celebrations going on there, so we spent the evening in the village at the fair, with cars and a shooting range as usual in the Czech countryside. The evening programme then included an interesting improvisational rhetorical duel between two teams who entertained the audience with professionally improvised sketches on given topics.

Today we will explore the historic city of Bruges and in the afternoon we will return to the university city of Ghent.
Bruggy is a historic town that, like the Venice of the North, boasts magnificent medieval buildings and water canals. In the past it was a important commercial centre and is now a popular tourist destination. Highlights include the Gothic Town Hall with the Belfried Tower, the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where the relics of Jesus Christ are kept, and one of the largest squares in Belgium, the hectare-long Markt Square.
To the centre we start from the train station, walk through Minnewaterpark to the Beijing Court, Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde. These are white-plastered houses from the 17th to 18th centuries, now belonging to a women's Benedictine convent and located in a quiet corner of one of the water channels. Passing the important brick Church of Our Lady, we reach the heart of Bruges, the Markt Square. The square is dominated by the aforementioned Gothic tower with its tall tower, as well as by the coloured brick houses. A walk further on takes you to the north-eastern edge of the historic centre to the Dampoort and the outer canal, around which there is a row of several old windmills in the adjacent hilltop park. These are 18th-century windmills that were once used to process grain.

windmills
It takes about half a day to explore the historic centre of Bruges. So we move again through the centre to the train station and continue to Ghent.
Gent, located in the Belgian region of East Flanders, is one of the most beautiful cities in Belgium. It has a rich history, which can be seen when walking through the narrow streets of the historic centre of the city. Medieval architecture can be seen in many places, including churches, cathedrals and castles. Ghent is also known as the City of the Three Towers because the landmarks of the centre are the large towers of Belfort (the bell tower), Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavon's Cathedral) and Sint-Niklaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church). Another interesting monument is the medieval castle Gravensteen, which was built in the 12th century and served as the residence of the counts and later as a prison. Of course, Ghent is also known for its rich culinary scene, offering many kinds of Belgian beers.
After an early evening stroll around the centre and dinner with colleagues, it was dark. Ghent had been transformed into an illuminated Belgian gem, and we were keen to explore Night Ghent again. I mean bike, this transport is very popular here.

Accommodation again at my colleague's place, tomorrow early morning departure to France.
Crossing from Ghent to Órleans with a short stop and change in Paris.
With the help of a few local trains we get to Lille, from there we take an express train to Amiens and finally another one to Paris at Paris Nord station.
The train to Órleans will take us from Paris Austerlitz station, which is at the other end of central Paris. We have about 4 hours to change trains, so we decide to walk through the centre with our luggage. We have several interesting sights along the way. The first one not far from the station is the church of St. Vincent. We weave our way through streets crowded with cars and people between apartment buildings in the regular and uniform development of the northern part of downtown Paris. Next on the route is the Park Jardin du Palais-Royal, and the adjacent Palais Royal, from which it is only a short walk to the landmark of all Paris, the famous Louvre. We will walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the Little and Grand Palais, from where the Invalides and another landmark of Paris, the Eiffel Tower are in sight. We don't want to go any further in this direction, because Austerlitz station is on the other side. So we continue along the Seine past the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is still being repaired after a fire in 2019.

4 hours is, of course, not enough for Paris, you can hardly walk from one station to another through the whole centre and at least see a few landmarks of the centre. But we've been to Paris a few times, so that's not our main goal today, we're just changing trains. The destination is Orleans, where we are to meet our host for today, who we found and arranged through Couchsurfing.
Órleans is a pretty small, but all the more beautiful historical town. Our host lives practically in the centre. We check in and then head out together for dinner and drinks on the bustling Rue de Bourgogne, where most of the best local cafes, restaurants, bars and other nightlife venues are concentrated. This is to keep the rest of the city from getting disturbed at night.

After a few days, we don't have to rush anywhere this morning, so the morning is mostly relaxing, with a good brunch after a walk around the centre. In the afternoon we leave Orleans and continue along the Loire River to Tours, where our next Couchsurfing hosts are waiting for us. In the meantime, we stop at two chateaux on the Loire, in the towns of Blois and Amboise.
Orleans is located on the Loire River. The town is especially famous for its historical importance during the Hundred Years' War. The most famous event associated with the town is the rescue of Órleans by the French national heroine, Johan of Arc, in 1429. The locals are obviously very proud of her, with symbols and references to Joan at every turn in the town. The town's architectural landmark is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, one of the largest cathedrals in France.
We're going to Blois. The station is practically in the centre of the town, so we will need about an hour to explore the area in order to continue on in time. For a potential tour of the local castle (as with all castles on the Loire), at least an extra hour or two would need to be added.
Blois is a picturesque town in the Loire Valley, for its small size known for its beautiful architecture and historical monuments. In the centre of the city is the imposing Chateau of Blois, which was built in the 16th century and served as the seat of the kings of France. As a result, it became an important centre of art and culture, where many important artists, writers and intellectuals met. Next to the castle, there are also picturesque streets with medieval houses and the historic marble Church of St. Vincent.
We take the next local that's running right now, and get off at the next town on our hop-on : hop-off hourly tours of the local castles, Amboise. In Amboise, the station lies on one side of the broad Loire, while the town centre lies on the other. So we take a detour to the centre via the historic bridge.
Amboise is another picturesque town located on the banks of the Loire River. It is famous for its Renaissance castle, which towers over the town and offers a fine view of the surrounding countryside. It was also a favourite residence of French kings in the 16th century. The historic centre here is really small, practically just a few streets around the castle.
An hour in Amboise is again enough time for us to explore. Tours will be more interesting, so we'll go.
Tours is one of the larger towns on the Loire. The city has a long history and is full of architectural monuments such as Gothic cathedrals, Romanesque churches and Renaissance palaces. The most prominent monument is the medieval Cathedral of Saint Gatien, famous for its vitreaux and its massive bell tower. Other notable monuments include the Gothic Church of Saint Martin or the Renaissance Palace of the Bishops of Tours. The historic centre of Vieux Tours is a gem in itself, full of winding narrow streets with gently crowded houses. We take a night stroll through the entire centre and on the banks of the Loire sit in a larger garden for a public event of mostly locals by the illuminated bridge.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
And today we will be staying in Tours with our Couchsurfing family. We will make the most of our Interrail Global pass. Early in the morning, we will drive to another town among the chateaux and castles on the Loire and in the wider area, Angers, and on the way back to Tours we will visit other smaller ones, in Saumur and Langeais, which are excellently accessible by train.
Angers lies on the River Maine, but practically on the edge of the town flows the Loire, into which the Maine empties. It is the capital city of the Maine-et-Loire region. It is best known for its castle, the Château d'Angers, which was built in the 9th century and served as a royal residence. Today, the castle is a tourist attraction and home to a museum. The Cathedral of St. Maurice is also worth mentioning, where rare polychromes have recently been discovered and are currently being reconstructed. Otherwise, Angers is also a wine-growing town, where the Chenin blanc grape variety is cultivated and used in the production of the famous wines of Anjou, Coteaux du Layon and Saumur.

Two hours is enough for Angers, we are moving to Saumur.
Saumur is probably the most picturesque town on the Loire that we visited here. The dominant feature of the town is Saumur Castle, which rises on top of a hill above the town. This imposing castle was built in the 10th century and was later rebuilt in Renaissance style. The Historic Quarter with its narrow streets and houses dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Saumur is also famous for its horse schools, where classical riding and traditional French horsemanship are taught.
Langeais is a small town, perhaps even a village, with excellent train accessibility that one would almost miss on a map. Yet the local castle, built in the 15th century, is one of the most well-preserved castles in the Loire Valley. It is one of the few castles in the area that was not completely destroyed during the French Revolution. Perhaps because it was overlooked on the map by the revolutionaries and soldiers.
Accommodation almost in the city centre with a family via Couchsurfing.
We have a weekend ahead of us, which we intend to spend with colleagues in and around the Gulf of Morbihan and at sea on a sailboat. The destination of today's trip is therefore the small town of Sarzeau, where we will meet everyone one evening at a time. We will thus leave Tours early in the morning to Vannes by train, stopping en route for lunch and a tour of the beautiful centre in Nantes, the capital of the Pays de la Loire region.
We leave Tours early in the morning, with a change in Angers.

When you arrive in Nantes, the first thing that greets you is the Jardin des Plantes just opposite the train station, a botanical garden with more than 11,000 species of plants from all over the world, which serves as a research and education centre. We continue past the Catholic Church of St. Clément to the Isle of Versailles on the River Erdre, home to a Japanese-style park and museum. Like being back in Japan, the park is really convincing. We pass by the small water area Bassin de Ceineray, where the entire Erdre River disappears into a tunnel under the center, where smaller vessels can get to the Loire - if they wait for the green light. Before lunch, we also reach one of France's most beautiful basilicas, St. Nicholas Basilica. Other notable sights in Nantes include the Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which is just being rebuilt after a fire in 2020. We saved the city's jewel for last, the 15th-century Château des ducs de Bretagne, which was once the residence of the Dukes of Brittany, Anne of Brittany and her father, Francis II
Other interesting sites in the city that we missed today but are worth checking out include the Military Museum of Maillé-Brézé in the form of a permanently moored military ship, or the art, culture and tourism project Les Machines des Nantes. The project was created by the art group La Machine as part of the regeneration of a former industrial area on the banks of the Loire. The interactive project consists of giant steampunk mechanical machines that are powered by hydraulics and electric motors. The most famous of these machines is probably the Big Elephant. In the former industrial area there is also a large steampunk carousel or one of the icons of Nantes, the old yellow Titan crane.

Japanese Gardens
river tunnel
In the evening we leave Nantes by train to Vannes, where a colleague will pick us up by car and we will drive to our accommodation together.
We'll swap the train for the whole weekend for a boat, a small sailboat. Today we'll go to Quiberon for a bite to eat.
We refuel and leave the port of Arzon. We sail part of the way to Quiberon on a butterfly, part on a crosswind, but as unfortunately it doesn't blow much, we end up packing up the sails and just bubbling along on the engine until we get to Quiberon harbour.

Thankfully, it doesn't take anything away from the comfort on board.

We're anchored in the harbour and we're going for a walk. The inner harbour is virtually inaccessible at low tide.
After coffee and a traditional Breton pancake, we head back to Arzon. This time we don't even put the sails up and we go on the motor.

In the evening, we will stop at the Suscinio Castle, which has been undergoing renovation for the last few years and is thus getting its original appearance. The castle was built in the 13th century and served as the summer residence of the Breton dukes.
Today, we will dock so that with sunrise we can head out into Morbihan Bay, which is best accessed only at certain hours according to the tide. These phenomena are very intense here, and because of the very complex geography of the whole area with only one channel from the sea to the bay, there are many treacherous currents, which vary greatly in time just according to the tides. At certain times of the day, it is impossible to even get to some places, with a river flowing against the boat instead of a calm sea, as the water moves from the sea into the vast bay or vice versa. Alternatively, temporarily, instead of a few feet of water under the keel, rocks are just sticking out of the water. But we have a locally knowledgeable sea bass on board, so we have no trouble venturing to the island of Île-aux-Moines, the largest island in the Morbihan, which is the destination of today's trip.
Sunrise at the port of Arzon. Nobody's there. Only hungry seagulls combing the calm waters.

We navigated through all the currents and eddies with quite a few sport fishing boats around in the morning. I guess the fish are biting.
Monks Island is surrounded by small rocky islands and ever-changing coves and is popular for its picturesque nature and beaches. There are several old churches and chapels on the island, mostly with naval decoration, which is generally common in Brittany. There is also a museum and an archaeological site documenting the history of the island from prehistoric times to the present day. Tourists like to come here for day hiking or cycling, probably preferably on the very short ferry from Port Blanc, to enjoy the local nature and views of the surrounding countryside. After exploring the town on the island, we couldn't miss the opportunity to have the traditional Breton speciality, banana galettes, here too. These are pancakes with typical fillings such as cheese, ham, eggs, vegetables, seafood or mushrooms in various combinations.
We then leave the harbour and drive around the entire island back to Arzon.

The weekend at sea is over, the boat is anchored in the home port, so we pack our things and continue with our colleagues by car to Rennes.
Accommodation at one of our colleagues' place, from where we will leave early tomorrow morning for the south of France. Our last evening together, so we'll review the whole weekend over a good wine. It was a good one, it just could have been windier.
A full day crossing southwest France from Rennes to Bordeaux.
Transfer in Nantes, from there to Bordeaux by French IC.
The edge of good red wine is already making its presence felt.

Arrival in the afternoon, accommodation with colleagues for two nights.
A full day tour of Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is famous for its wine regions and its historic centre. The town centre, which was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2007, offers a number of historical sites.
We start today at the historic Dijeaux Gate with the symbols of the city (lion, leopard, bell, sickle), which serves as the entrance to the commercial streets in the city centre. Passing the large Mollat bookshop and the Grand Theatre opposite the prominent Hotel Intercontinental, we reach the Place des Quinconces. This is one of the largest squares in Europe, covering around 25 hectares. In the square there are two large fountains, statues of important French personalities and the Monument aux Girondins column in memory of the Girondist deputies who were victims of the Jacobin terror. We continue past the Garonne river, which is today as always brown coloured with fine mud. The silty fine clay soil is ubiquitous throughout the Bordeaux area and gives the local wines their unique character. You can learn more about them at the Museum Cité du vin, housed in a modern building shaped like a wine decanter, just opposite the unique Jacques Chaban-Delmas Bridge, which rises vertically and is the largest of its kind in Europe.
After lunch at the newly opened restaurant market on the Esplanade de Pontac near the old shipyards and submarine docks, which have their own charm of rust, brown mud and moored vessels, we return to the centre. We wander through the glitzy streets full of life, restaurants and cafes, where again we have to try a little something - cheesecake, coffee or a glass of rosé? Past the Gate of the Grosse cloche (Great Bell) we then continue to the cathedral. The richly decorated St. Andrew's Cathedral is one of the largest Romanesque buildings in France. Just across the street from it, we peek into the Hotel de ville, the town hall. For dinner, my colleagues and I go for what else but the local traditional specialty, meat with saucebordelaise, which is a red wine sauce with onions, parsley, bay leaves and peppercorns. This dish is often served with chips and local wine. We then finish the day with a stroll through Night Bordeaux.

Accommodation with colleagues, tomorrow early morning departure further south.
A full day transfer from Bordeaux to Barcelona.
Early in the morning we leave for Narbonne, where we have about 2 hours for a quick walk around the city.
For how small Narbonne is, it is historically quite significant and interesting from a tourist point of view. It was founded by the Romans as a port on the Mediterranean, and at its height was one of the most important cities in the area. In the city centre there are several monuments such as the Bishop's Palace, the Romanesque Church of St. Paul, but above all the Gothic Cathedral of St. Justus and St. Pastor. Originally dating from the 13th century, the building has remained unfinished since the Middle Ages, and the original completed choir with gallery is used as a church. At 41 metres, it is one of the tallest in France.

Roman archaeological monuments
We continue by train to Perpignan, a lake on the border with Spain. We want to continue via Port Bou along the coast to Barcelona, but the following train at Perpignan is cancelled and not running. Could it be the strikes in Spain? Or just Spanish mania? Anyway, because of the schedule-reality mismatch, we waste several hours dealing with the replacement service. In the end, after waiting for a few hours with others at the counters and debating the tickets, we decide to take at least the last free TGV express train to Barcelona today for an extra 12 euros or so. So we arrive in Barcelona at around 10pm, are picked up by a colleague at the big main Sants highway, and just manage to have a late dinner at a traditional Spanish restaurant and a beer together before midnight.
Accommodation at a colleague's place, in the morning continuing on to Valencia as our current main destination - Barcelona just passing through.
Moving from Barcelona to Valencia. But while we're in Barcelona, we'll take a detour to at least see the Sagrada Familia. We'll save the rest of the surely beautiful Barcelona for another day.
Sagrada Familia is the most important building in Barcelona and the most famous work of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The building is located in the city centre and its construction was started in 1882, but still has not been completed. The temple is magnificent, distinguished above all by its decorative towers and a façade full of sculptural details, which Gaudí expressed in an organic style. The Sagrada Familia has become a symbol of Barcelona. And we move on.
From the metro, we take the many, many escalators from the heart of the Earth to Sants station and, with a change at Aldea-Amposta (which is a little station with nothing around), we are on half-empty trains in Valencia in the afternoon. It's a pity they run so infrequently (only a couple of times a day) when they are quite spacious, comfortable and one can enjoy the view of the sea in places.
So Valencia welcomes us with nice weather. We'll stroll through the beautifully clean and tidy historical centre, where our feet will take us today (it's close to everywhere, the centre is pretty compact), do some grocery shopping, and later have dinner together with one of the colleagues we'll be staying with. We'll leave the proper sightseeing for the next few days, we'll be here for three nights, so there will be plenty of time.

historical city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
We've been on the road for over two weeks, so today will be a totally relaxing day, it's high time to stop a bit. In the morning, we rent bikes for the day at one of the many rental shops and ride up to one of the city's sandy beaches, the quiet Malvarrosa Beach, where we'll spend virtually the entire day doing nothing. Even that is necessary sometimes.
We start in the centre near the train station, where we rent bikes. Through the centre of Valencia, which lies in a former bend of the Turia River, we drive north of the centre to the large Jardín del Túria Park, which stretches for over 9km in the original riverbed. This original riverbed was in fact relocated south of the city in the second half of the twentieth century after the tragic floods and floods of 1957, which claimed around a thousand victims. The Jardín del Túria Park, which was thus created and through which all the bridges still pass, is thus one of the largest urban parks in Europe, ideal for cycling or for other sports that many people like to practice here. Then, at the eastern end of the park in the City of Arts and Sciences is the Oceanárium, the largest public aquarium in Europe, past which we continue on to Malvarrosa Beach and Playa de las Arenas, and will be returning this way in the evening.

Park after the relocated river around the city centre
Accommodation with colleagues.
It's Saturday, time for a proper tour of the city. We've seen a lot already, but today we'll discover more interesting places with our colleague who knows the place very well and will be with us all day.
We start in the Jardins del Real, where wild parrots fly and chatter above us. We'll walk to another Park del Parterre, where the statue of Jaume I, James I, stands in the middle. Aragon, and several ancient sprawling pine trees. From here we walk to the centre, where a bat, one of the emblems of Valencia, can be seen on one of the houses. The rococo Palazzo del Marqués de Dos Aguas with its displays of ceramics is definitely worth noting along the way. Not far from here is Square Redona, a round area with several stalls forming a pleasant little market. Opposite the picturesque Gothic church of Santa Catalina is a house that was once a separate housing unit and boasts the lowest facade in Europe. Today, however, it is part of the house next door. We stop here at horchateria Santa Catalina, a renowned traditional establishment for the sole purpose of sampling the local delicacies horchata and farton. Horchata is a milk-like drink that tastes like carrots, but is made from tiger nuts. And farton is an elongated sweet pastry that is dipped in horchata. After a snack, we continue on to the Central Market, where you can get almost any local food. Just opposite the market is the Llotja de la Seda, a gothic UNESCO monument with free admission, where the silk trade used to flourish, and where the Silk Road ended. The great hall is exceptional, with its high columns and stunning ceiling, which used to be painted with stars. Next, we walk to the Gate of Quart and later to the Gate of Serranos, which used to serve as a prison and were therefore spared demolition when the city's fortifications were torn down. Both gates can be climbed (free entry) to look around Valencia.

park Parterre se sochou Jaume I
bone, the house with the narrowest facade and hot water heaters
In the evening, we meet a colleague and drive south of Valencia to the Albufera Nature Reserve. We pass several lakes and ponds to see the strangely yellow sea, and then watch the sun set over Valencia from the locals' favourite viewpoint de la Gola del Pujol on the shores of Lake Albufera.
Albufera beaches
small dock and viewpoint
Accommodation with colleagues, from tomorrow we start to return to the Czech Republic.
Distance-wise, today we have probably the longest crossing, a full day move from Valencia as far north as possible. We have arranged accommodation via Couchsurfing in Nîmes, but this falls at midday, because unlike in Barcelona this morning, we can't get last-minute reservations on the fast train, so we don't make our arranged dinner with our hostess and arrive in Nîmes on the regional trains until late at night. Holt doesn't always work out - the Spanish railways are not exactly organisationally and systemically friendly. Seeking reservations in the Spanish train system is a bit more complicated than in the seamless online reservation systems of France and other Midwestern European countries.
A quick departure on the high speed train which gets us to Barcelona in about 3 hours. Mandatory reservation was easily arranged just before departure at the station for a few euros.
However, the Sants station is busy and almost all the express trains are sold out, so we are forced to take regional trains instead of the planned express train. At least the check-in counters here are fast and the rail staff are nice. So we take the metro to the San Andres station and from there continue at a slower pace to Port Bou.



If we didn't make it to Port Bou on the way south, we're at least making it on the way back north, albeit involuntarily this time. So the mythical Port Bou has been humbled, and in celebration of victory over the Spanish train system (which of all Europe on our Eurotrip, Spain was the least functional) and the joy of it, of returning to normal functioning France, we have a good Estrella beer in a small town between transfers, one of the few things that works quite well for the Spanish.

And yes, there are still those nice sea views when the track comes within sight of the coast. The stretch between Llança and Cerbere is so picturesque in the setting sun.

There is a French train leaving from Port Bou in the evening, which will take us to Nîmes in 3.5 hours.
Because of the late hour, we are staying right across the street across from the train station, which is an ideal choice for an overnight stay (and unexpectedly cheap compared to other local accommodations), as we continue along the Côte d'Azur early tomorrow morning.
Today will be packed to the brim, along the Côte d'Azur we will drive to the Italian town of Ventimiglia, explore the seaside and foothill principality of Monaco and spend the evening in French Nice.
We leave Nîmes early in the morning and with a change in Marseille we are in Nice for lunch.
We will leave our luggage at our accommodation near the train station and continue along the coast, returning sometime at night.

The Côte d'Azur, often referred to as the French Riviera, stretches from Marseille to the Italian border. The train line from Nice to Italy winds between rocks, through small and large tunnels, and often overlooks the sea from the train. You can also enjoy the beautiful coastline, the azure blue sea and the sunshine from the train. In some places it even looks as if the train is hovering directly over the sea.
The first major destination today is the town of Ventimiglia practically just over the border with France at the southern end of the Alps. The historic centre, on a hilltop on the western bank of the Roia River flowing into the sea, is a compact building of colourful houses, its centre dominated by the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral of St Mary Assunta. From this hill, you have a nice view of the entire city, the coastline with its beaches and harbours, or the mountains that tower over the city. And even in such a provincial town, they make excellent ice cream here. Holt Italy!

After two hours in Vemtimiglia, during which time the whole town can be walked around in peace, we return the same way by train back to France. I don't usually like to take the same route twice, but these views of the sea never get old. Especially when the sun is just starting to set.
Even on the slower local trains, it's all close together; within minutes we're in Monaco's only train station. And you know it as soon as you peer out of the train window - unlike other stations, Monaco - Monte Carlo is all in the rock and at first glance it is opulent and luxurious, clean and tidy, made of modern materials.
Monaco covers an area of just 2.02km², so we had no problem covering most of it in less than two hours. Luxury, casinos and drama can be seen and felt at every turn. We'll head straight to the rock outcropping, home to Monaco's greatest pearls, the Royal Palace, St. Nicholas Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum. And of course the breathtaking views of the surrounding area full of grand buildings and yachts. Plus, we caught the sunset perfectly, so it's a great sight to see both early evening and nighttime Monaco. Through the Harbor of Hercules we can also see, for example, the glowing buildings of the Casinas of Monte Carlo.
The rest of the evening will be spent in Nice again. We will walk through the centre, past the Statues of Apollo in the Masséna Square to the city's long Opera Beach and walk along it to the top with a park on the site of the former castle. We will also wander through the streets of the old town of Vieux Nice.

walk around the beach
streets of the old town
Accommodation via Booking near the train station.
A full day crossing from Nice to Lausanne.
Short transfer in Marseille, direct connection to Lyon.

From Lyon we continue by direct train to Geneva.
In Switzerland, the warm and nice summer weather is coming to an end, and Geneva welcomes us with overcast skies. We change trains for Laussane, where it is already raining. And depending on the weather, it will rain for the next few days, during which we plan to stay in Switzerland. Just great.
Accommodation with colleagues in Laussane for the next three nights.
Since it's raining, it's supposed to rain, and it's going to rain for our entire stay in Switzerland, we'll use the next few days not so much to hang out in the rain in the cities (or only occasionally), but to cross as much of the Swiss mountains as possible by train, now that we have our Interrail Global Pass. Because it doesn't rain on the trains (especially the comfortable Swiss ones), we'll spend virtually the entirety of the following days in them.
Early in the morning, we have a big circuit from Lausanne via Sion, Brig, Andermatt, Lucerne and Bern back to Lausanne.
On the Brig we change from a regular express train to a regional tourist train, which is designed for difficult mountain terrain and from which it is possible to observe the interesting Swiss mountains on the stretch to Andermatt. There is also one of the more well-known trains, the Glacier Express, which unlike the regular regional trains is considerably more expensive, with mandatory reservations or the option to have a meal on board, but you can see virtually the same things from this train as from a regular train.





In Andermatt we change to another regional train, which takes us within minutes to nearby Göschenen.
It's a very hilly trail, like many other mountain sections the passability is ensured by using toothpicks on the train. One wonders where the train can get here.
In Göschenen we wait for the express train, which is just coming in and out of the fifteen-kilometre tunnel under the mountain massifs. The technical design of the Swiss railways is truly admirable. With a further change at Altdorf we get to Luzern.
Until we got to Lucerne, the weather was quite calm all day with only a sprinkle of rain. In Lucerne, however, it was so rainy that it would not chase away a dog. But it wouldn't be us if we didn't take a peek into the centre of this historic city, despite the bad weather.
Luzern lies on the shores of Lake Luzernsee, from which the River Reuss flows through the centre of the city. Its water is incredibly clear and glacially blue. There are also several important old wooden bridges across the river in the beautiful historic part of the city, especially the Kapellbrücke Bridge, which is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe and a major tourist attraction.
After a quick tour of Lucerne, we then take the fast train back to Lausanne, where it is raining quite heavily again in the evening.
Accommodation with colleagues.
Today's circuit through Switzerland will be much smaller than yesterday's. We've discovered that the Interrail Global Pass includes a ticket on selected boat services on some Swiss lakes. And since one of these lakes is Thunersee, and with a recommendation from our hosts, it's a done deal. We'll go for a ride on the lake, explore the city of Thun and take another regional tourist train to the winter resort of Zermatt, maybe see the Matterhorn. Okay, yes, we won't, it's raining, it is and it's going to be cloudy... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Transfer in Bern and another in Thun.
We're on our way back from Interlaken, just passing through now.
Within a few more tens of minutes we get off at Interlaken West. The town is named after its location, situated between two lakes - Brienzersee and Thunersee. We board at the dock practically right next to the station and within moments the boat pulls out onto Thunersee and we are off on a cruise with stops on both sides of the lake.
Thunersee is one of the most beautiful lakes in Switzerland. It is 17 km long and up to 3.5 km wide. The lake is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, mountains and hills, villages and towns. It is widely used for water sports and recreation. In addition, Thunersee is a popular tourist destination for the beautiful views of the picturesque mountain landscape it offers both from the shore and from the sometimes incredibly blue surface of the lake. Pendulating in the fresh, cold wind between the two picturesque shores, now the captain stops on the left, now on the right shore, we pull up to the shore, the crew anchors, passengers get on and off, and within minutes we are off again at a brisk pace to our next stop.
We get off in Spiez, where we see the local medieval castle on the way to the station.
From Spiez we are back in Thun by train in a few minutes. Like Interlaken, Thun is situated on the Aare River, which also flows through Lake Thun. The town has a nice historical centre with medieval buildings and many museums. The Castle of Thun, originally dating from the 12th century, is the dominant feature visible from afar. The castle was built on a hill above the town and offers a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside, including the nearby lake.
From Thun we take the Italian fast train and in less than an hour we get off in Visp. The train goes most of the way through a long tunnel under the Alps, the so-called Lötschberg Tunnel. This is one of the longest railway tunnels in Europe. It measures 35 km and was only opened in 2007 as part of a new section of the high-speed line between Germany and Italy. The tunnel has two separate rail routes, each running in one direction, allowing a large number of freight and passenger trains to pass between northern and southern Europe. The construction of the tunnel was very demanding and cost more than 4 billion Swiss francs, but it has greatly reduced transport times. Further proof of the technical advancement of the Swiss railways.
From Visp we change to another regional tourist train to the end of this section, Zermatt. Looking at the rock massifs all around and the debris fields of these massifs, the trees growing in them look more like splinters than towering giants.
Zermatt itself is a picturesque Swiss mountain town in the Mattertal Valley below the famous Matterhorn, which unfortunately we can't see due to overcast skies. In any case, the town is famous for its ski resorts and offers many luxury hotels and restaurants as well as tourist activities in summer and winter. There's no snow here yet, but they're getting ready for it, with electric carts driven between the sturdy wooden buildings by road workers, police, shopkeepers...
On the same way we return to Visp and after changing in Visp continue to Lausanne by direct express train.
Lausanne will welcome us again in the evening with a downpour. Fortunately, it is not permanent, so it will allow us to go to see at least the view of the Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a nice view of the whole of Lausanne at night.

Accommodation with colleagues. And tomorrow we will leave for Germany.
We say goodbye to Lausanne again in the rain early in the morning. Today's panoramic journey through the Swiss mountains will take us from Montreux, through the plains and valleys around Château-d'Oex and Gstaad, to Zweisimmen and on through the Simmental Valley to Spiez. From there, we will take fast trains to Zurich and on to Munich. The Oktoberfest is on, so we will finish our Eurotrip with another colleague in Munich at the Oktoberfest.
In Montreux we will change to the regional tourist train, which will take us to Zweisimmen. I mean, it would probably like to take us, but rather uncharacteristically for Swiss punctuality and punctuality, we stand for several dozen minutes unnecessarily somewhere at the beginning of the line for technical reasons. The technique on this section doesn't look in good condition. Anyway, despite the long delay, we somehow move forward and eventually reach Zweisimmen.
The reward for our patience are again views of the surrounding mountains, meadows and scattered farmhouses on the hills.

The rest of the way to Munich is no problem, we could have just taken a direct connection from Zurich to Munich and not made an extra change in St. Gallen, where it was harder to find a seat on the fast train, which was very busy.

Arrival in Munich in the evening, dinner together in the city and accommodation with a colleague.
It's the last weekend of Oktoberfest. We will spend the whole day in the city, mostly at the Oktoberfest, which takes place in Theresienwiese. The beer tents are packed to bursting, not only because of the drizzle. It is necessary to leave early, perhaps at 10am, otherwise it is very difficult to get in. If you are late, you have to stand in line for several dozen minutes before you are allowed into a tent.

Party all day all night with a few other friends, accommodation again at a colleague's place.
Last day of the Eurotrip, just need to get home, simply south through Linz.
What to say in conclusion?
I'm actually surprised that it took us only a few hours to organize this whole venture before we left, practically all the original plans worked well during the whole month except for a few minor things and financially the Eurotrip could be considered low cost. However, we would have spent about 5 times more than the cost of our Interrail Global Pass just on fares. It was a really intense ride, thousands of kilometres travelled, days of pure time on often varied trains, dozens of beautiful places visited in Europe in 12 countries, extraordinary memories made with extraordinary friends and colleagues and another large part of our beautiful continent discovered.
And we're not done yet, there's still a second month for smaller trips... :)