Four days are enough to fall in love with Edinburgh, but not enough to get to know it all. That’s exactly how it should be. This itinerary will take you through the best the city has to offer: from the castle in the mist and the Royal Mile to your first glass of authentic Scotch whisky. And when you head home feeling like you've only just scratched the surface, I've got a few sequels ready for you.
On the day of arrival, just a light introduction to the place.
Arrival in Edinburgh. After landing, you'll go through passport control; the vast majority of Czech travelers will breeze through the biometric gates quickly and without waiting. Then, just pick up your luggage and head into the city.
- Tram - the best choice. Forget about taxis or buses. There's a direct tram line from the airport to the city center that doesn't deal with traffic jams or complications, and it will reliably take you all the way to Leith. You can buy tickets at a machine just outside the terminal exit (the machine takes cards, so no need to scramble for cash). There are almost always staff members there who are happy to help. The price is around 12 pounds, but it's better to check the carrier's current website before your trip. Do not validate your ticket on the tram; a conductor will come around. Store your suitcases in the shelves specifically designated for them.
- Alternative: Airport Express. If your accommodation is outside the tram route, the 100 bus line departs from a few minutes away from the airport directly to the city center. Tickets are bought directly from the driver, and you can pay by card. They are reliable, but unlike the tram, they can be slowed down by road traffic.
After checking in and unpacking, it's time for a first look around. Princes Street is the city's main artery and the perfect place to start. One side of the street is lined with shops (H&M, Zara, standard high street), but the other side is the reason to walk this way. The view of Edinburgh Castle towering above Princes Street Gardens is one of the best backdrops in all of Scotland. Stop by the parks below the castle, especially if the sun is shining. The locals come here to relax, and you'll soon understand why.
Marks & Spencer Food Hall
An ideal stop for your first evening – great ready-made meals, Scottish cheeses, sandwiches, desserts, fruit, vegetables, meat, and plenty more – including a dining area at reasonable prices. A perfect choice if you're tired from the journey and don't feel like hunting for a restaurant right away. Naturally, there are also plenty of souvenir shops, bookstores, and many other stores here.
Your luggage is stowed, your feet don't hurt yet, and you're not ready for sleep. Rose Street is exactly for moments like this. This unassuming alley runs right behind Princes Street and is often overlooked by tourists—which is their mistake and your advantage. No big signs, no inflated prices, no touts with menus by the door. Just a row of pubs side-by-side, locals enjoying a pint, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to Edinburgh just the way it should. Two places you can't miss.
- Dirty Dick's - a classic Scottish pub where time has stopped at just the right point. No modern gadgets, no posing, just a proper pub as it should be.
- And then Amber Rose - a sports pub with plenty of TVs, yet with an authentically Scottish soul. If a match is on, the atmosphere will pull you right in. And they have whisky here too. Tell the bartender you're in Edinburgh for the first time and want something typically Scottish. A good bartender will take care of you.
Rose Street is also the perfect opportunity for your first chat with the locals. Scots are friendly and love talking about their city, and the tips you get from them won't be found in any guidebook. Just watch out for the treacherous question, "How is it here in England with..." It’s best to just forget the words England or English for this weekend 😀
After a drink or two, you can head back to the hotel. A big day awaits you tomorrow, and Edinburgh requires well-rested feet.
Edinburgh in full force. Get ready for lots of walking, plenty of history, and an almost certain dilemma at the end of the day. Holyrood, Parliament, the Dungeon, or a museum? There won't be time for everything, but that's the best thing about Edinburgh: there’s always a reason to come back.
Start early, the castle opens at 9:30 and the crowds arrive quickly. The view of the city from the castle walls is something you'll remember for a long time. Save some time for the interiors — the Honours of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny are well worth it. Also, take a look at the dog cemetery, or if your tour lands at 1 p.m., don't miss the cannon fire. It’s been a tradition since 1861 and once served mainly to synchronize chronometers for ships in the harbor. Count on at least two hours. Even if you're willing to get up early, it's better to book your tickets online in advance.
From the castle, your feet will naturally lead you down the Royal Mile, the main artery of the Old Town. A mile-long street packed with shops, pubs, street musicians, and history at every turn. Don't be tempted by the first souvenir shops right by the castle; the better and cheaper ones are further down. On the way down, keep an eye out for the side alleys, known as "closes"—narrow passages hiding courtyards and stories that don't make it into the guidebooks. One tip, however, might change your whole day's itinerary—The Scotch Whisky Experience, just a short walk from the castle—it's like a whisky museum (note: whisky, not whiskey!). Use the old Gaelic name "uisge beatha" (oosh-ge be-ha) and you'll be a local favorite; plenty of types and brands of whisky not just to see, but mainly to taste! Right opposite is a "safer" attraction, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions. If you have kids with you, that's definitely the better idea 😉
There is also a really renowned restaurant, The Witchery. If you want to feel like Scottish nobility for a while, don't hesitate to book a table for dinner. It will be an experience that stays with you for a long time.
About halfway down the Royal Mile, turn left onto Victoria Street. This is postcard-perfect Edinburgh: a curved, cobbled street with colorful shop fronts. It's said to have inspired J.K. Rowling when she was writing Diagon Alley for Harry Potter. Whether that's true or not, the atmosphere here is magical. It's an ideal spot for a coffee and your first rest stop. You'll be reminded that it might not just be a legend when you see something like "The Harry Potter Museum". It’s not a museum in the traditional sense, but if you want to take home a piece of the wizarding world, where else would you buy a real wand! Or there's a branch of the famous café where Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books, where you can even get a genuine butterbeer—the actual original café is a bit further on, and we'll get to that one, too.
Just a few steps from Victoria Street, you'll find Greyfriars Kirk, an old church with a graveyard that's one of the most atmospheric spots in all of Edinburgh. The cemetery is free to enter and a must-see for history and architecture lovers. Don't forget to look for the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a little Scottish Terrier who reportedly guarded his master's grave for fourteen whole years. It's a local legend that will definitely tug at your heartstrings. But please, don't touch Bobby's nose; it's a habit that's really damaging the statue. And for Harry Potter fans, I highly recommend reading the names on the tombstones—you'll find quite a few characters from the books there. And for those who aren't fans, there's also Greyfriars Bobby's bar with great local beer and food.
Even if you're not a huge fan of museums, you definitely shouldn't miss the main hall. It's free, which is a great reason in itself. It's a massive museum with a fascinating collection ranging from prehistoric times to modern Scotland. You can spend an entire afternoon here and never get bored. Plus, the famous Dolly the sheep is here, too. It's a perfect choice if it's raining outside—and in Edinburgh, you should always be prepared for that.
Right at the foot of the Royal Mile stands the Scottish Parliament building—and it's worth seeing from the outside. The controversial modern architecture by Spanish architect Enric Mirales still divides locals—some love it, others can't figure out what it actually is. Form your own opinion. Admission to the building is free, and on certain days you can also visit the debating chamber. Definitely worth a short stop.
At the end of the Royal Mile, far from the bustle of the castle, lies Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. While Edinburgh Castle is a fortress, Holyrood is a palace in the true sense of the word: magnificent state apartments, tapestries, and portraits of Scottish kings and queens stretching across the walls. History breathes from every corner here.
The palace's most compelling story belongs to Mary, Queen of Scots. This is where she lived, ruled, and experienced some of the darkest moments of her turbulent life, including the murder of her secretary, Rizzio, right before her eyes. Guides tell the story with gusto, and it’s one of those moments when you realize that Scottish history is anything but boring. Before you enter the palace, look down at your feet. Right in front of the entrance gate, you'll find three brass letters "S" in the pavement. They are inconspicuous, but they have a fascinating story. From the 16th century, Holyrood served as a sanctuary for debtors; so-called "Abbey lairds" hid here from creditors within the boundaries of the monastery grounds, which included Holyrood Park. Debtors who stayed within a five-mile radius of the abbey were protected from civil law and could not be arrested. On Sundays, they could even freely go out into the city, as Scottish law did not allow legal proceedings on that day. Between 1686 and 1880, over 6,500 people sought protection here. The sanctuary was only abolished in 1880, when imprisonment for debt was ended.
Allow yourself an hour to an hour and a half for the visit. And if you’re feeling good on your feet, it’s worth at least stopping by the entrance gate to look at the dramatic rock formation of Arthur’s Seat right above the palace. Save the hike up for another time, though—that’s a trip all on its own.
Today you'll leave the tourist center and see a different side of Edinburgh. Leith is a port district with a soul of its own—a bit gritty, very authentic, and one of the most exciting parts of the city in recent years. Get ready for golf, history, great food, and a ship that once hosted the British royal family.
Directly from Princes Street, we can take the tram. Get off the tram (at the Balfour Street stop) and take a short detour to Leith Links, a vast park with a unique place in the history of world sports. Golf was played here long before anyone started officially recording it. The oldest records from 1552–1554 mention local disputes between leather ball makers, and the royal court visited regularly; Charles I and James VII played here.
According to legend, 1682 brought the very first international golf match. The Duke of York and a local shoemaker defeated two English noblemen, supposedly deciding the Scottish origin of the entire sport once and for all.
Then came 1744. The city of Edinburgh donated a silver club as a prize and insisted on the drafting of rules as a condition, thus creating the very first official rules of golf in the world. The winner of the first tournament was the surgeon John Rattray, whose bronze statue stands today in the northern part of the park near the bowling greens.
Today, you won't find a permanent golf course here, just a vast park with picnic meadows and tennis courts. But once a year, history returns, and a tournament with historical clubs is played again at Leith Links.
From Leith Links, head over to The Shore, the historic waterfront along the Water of Leith. The Shore is a charming street with a vibe that feels a bit like Copenhagen’s famous Nyhavn. Once Edinburgh's main port, it's now lined with bars and restaurants serving local ale and fresh seafood. The atmosphere here is completely different from the Old Town—quieter, more local, and all the more pleasant for it.
On your way, be sure to stop by The King's Wark, a pub with a history that few places in the world can match. Originally built in 1434 as a royal residence, storehouse, and private armoury for James I, it has served over the centuries as a smuggler's hideout, a plague hospital, a weigh station, and a wine merchant. The building was rebuilt by Mary, Queen of Scots, after being almost entirely destroyed during the English invasion of 1544. Today, they serve some of the best gastropub food in Edinburgh—think fresh seafood, game, and Scottish classics. And the beer tastes that much better when you know what you’re sitting on.
Alternatively, stop for lunch at the Shore Bar right on the waterfront for fresh seafood, Scottish cuisine, and river views. It’s the perfect spot for a proper break before the afternoon.
At the end of the waterfront, you’ll find the Victoria Swing Bridge. As the largest counterweighted swing bridge in Scotland, built in 1874, it’s a masterpiece of Victorian engineering with its hydraulic mechanism and elegant iron structure. The bridge is free to access and a must-see for photographers and architecture lovers alike.
After a walk along the Shore, hop back on the tram or take a nice stroll to one of Edinburgh's best attractions that many tourists overlook. The Royal Yacht Britannia served the British Royal Family for 44 years and covered over a million nautical miles. Today, it is perfectly preserved as a floating museum, visited by over 300,000 people each year.
There are five decks waiting for you on board. You'll see the royal quarters, the state dining room and drawing room, the Queen's bedroom, and the ship's behind-the-scenes areas, including the engine room and laundry. You'll see the garage for the Queen's Rolls Royce Phantom, which traveled with her on every voyage, as well as the only room with a double bed—the honeymoon suite, where four royal couples spent their honeymoons. All four marriages ended in divorce.
The lesser-known stories are also worth mentioning. In a secret Cold War plan, Britannia was intended to serve as a refuge for the Queen and Prince Philip in the event of a nuclear attack, hidden in the Scottish fjords. In 1986, it was diverted to evacuate civilians from the Yemeni Civil War. And it was on its deck that Prince Charles and the last British governor symbolically left Hong Kong upon its handover to China.
Plan on at least two hours; it would be a shame to rush. An audio guide in Czech is available, so you won't miss a single detail. We recommend buying tickets online in advance, as the queue at the ticket office can be long. And definitely don't miss the classic tea—you don't have to wait until five!
If you're not into rugby, no worries. Murrayfield is worth a visit regardless. Scotland's largest stadium, with a capacity of 67,144, has a history dating back to 1925, when it opened with a Scotland victory over England and a Grand Slam win. During World War II, it served as an army depot, yet it still managed to host a Scotland vs. England match every year. This remains the highlight of the season to this day, and the match is definitely worth seeing, even though getting a ticket is almost impossible.
The attendance record dates back to 1975, when 104,000 spectators gathered for the Scotland vs. Wales match—a number that current safety regulations no longer allow to be surpassed. Outside of rugby, it has hosted the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Bon Jovi, the Foo Fighters, and even the Pope in 1982.
A stadium tour takes you through the players' tunnel, into the changing rooms, and right out onto the pitch. Experienced guides cover the history of Scottish rugby, legendary stories, and behind-the-scenes glimpses of the stadium. Sitting in the seat of one of the famous players in the changing room is an experience that fans describe as one of the most powerful moments of their entire visit to Edinburgh. We recommend booking tour tickets in advance.
If the stadium doesn't catch your eye, hop on bus 31 and after about 8 stops, you'll arrive at another local gem: Edinburgh Zoo. It opened its gates in 1913 and was the very first zoo in the world to house and breed penguins. And to this day, those penguins are still its biggest stars.
The daily penguin parade actually started by accident; in the 1950s, a zookeeper forgot to close the enclosure, and the penguins went for a stroll on their own. The mishap turned into a tradition that continues to this day. Living among the penguins is a certain Sir Nils Olav, the official mascot of the Norwegian King's Guard, who was knighted in 2008 and has his own collection of medals.
After World War II, a bear named Wojtek lived here, having served in the ranks of the Polish army. As an orphaned cub, he was adopted in Iran in 1943 by Polish soldiers who refused to return to communist Poland after the war and stayed in exile in Scotland. Wojtek spent the rest of his life at the Edinburgh Zoo, where his old comrades-in-arms visited him regularly. If you noticed the bronze statue of a soldier with a bear in Princes Street Gardens, that was him.
Plan for an entire afternoon. There are over a thousand animals of nearly two hundred species, including koalas, chimpanzees, bears, and endangered species like Amur leopards or Sumatran tigers. Details about the zoo can be found here
Your last day in Edinburgh. No rush, no must-see routes. Today, you choose. It all depends on your mood, the weather, and how much energy you have left after the previous days. Just plan your schedule around your flight time.
Bus number 37 runs directly from Princes Street (a standard ticket is valid) to a gem of Dan Brown's work. Rosslyn Chapel was founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, and its mysterious stone carvings have attracted visitors, artists, and writers for centuries. Brown described it as the most mysterious and magical chapel in the world and set the finale of The Da Vinci Code there—a book that sold 81 million copies. Since then, visitors from all over the world have been flocking here. But even without The Da Vinci Code, the chapel would be worth a visit.
Inside, several mysteries await that you'll take home with you. The most famous is the Apprentice Pillar. Eight feet tall, wrapped in vines and dragons at the base. Legend has it that an apprentice carved it from a dream while the master was away in Rome. Upon his return, the master killed the apprentice with a mallet out of jealousy. The master's face is carved in the corner opposite the pillar, condemned to gaze at the apprentice's masterpiece for eternity.
And then there's the corn. A cob of corn, a plant native to America, is carved into one of the arches. Yet, the chapel was founded 50 years before Columbus discovered America. No one has been able to explain this satisfactorily yet. Rabbie's Tours
Book your tickets in advance; the visit is divided into 90-minute slots, and places fill up fast. Official website
If you're looking for a peaceful walk in the greenery after days filled with walking and history, head to the Botanic Garden.
The garden was established in 1670 as a small medicinal garden near Holyrood, the size of a tennis court back then. Today, it spans 70 hectares and houses over 13,000 plant species. It is the second oldest botanic garden in Britain, right after Oxford, and its centerpiece is the Temperate Palm House from 1858, which remains the tallest palm house in the UK to this day. MercattoursBritain Express
Entry to the garden is free. There is a fee for the glasshouses, but it's worth it. And the view of Edinburgh Castle from the hill in the garden is one you won't soon forget.
An ideal spot for a slow morning, a coffee, and one last look at the city before you head off.
Don't forget to be at the airport at least 2 hours before your flight.
At the end of this trip, you probably won't have Edinburgh all figured out. You won't have checked off every sight, every pub, every view, or every story. And that's a good thing. Edinburgh isn't a city to tick off a list, but one to slowly get addicted to. Four days are enough for the first enchantment, the first whisky, the first climb up a hill, and the first sentence: "We definitely weren't here for the last time."
Four days are enough to fall in love with Edinburgh, but not enough to get to know it all. That’s exactly how it should be. This itinerary will take you through the best the city has to offer: from the castle in the mist and the Royal Mile to your first glass of authentic Scotch whisky. And when you head home feeling like you've only just scratched the surface, I've got a few sequels ready for you.
On the day of arrival, just a light introduction to the place.
Arrival in Edinburgh. After landing, you'll go through passport control; the vast majority of Czech travelers will breeze through the biometric gates quickly and without waiting. Then, just pick up your luggage and head into the city.
- Tram - the best choice. Forget about taxis or buses. There's a direct tram line from the airport to the city center that doesn't deal with traffic jams or complications, and it will reliably take you all the way to Leith. You can buy tickets at a machine just outside the terminal exit (the machine takes cards, so no need to scramble for cash). There are almost always staff members there who are happy to help. The price is around 12 pounds, but it's better to check the carrier's current website before your trip. Do not validate your ticket on the tram; a conductor will come around. Store your suitcases in the shelves specifically designated for them.
- Alternative: Airport Express. If your accommodation is outside the tram route, the 100 bus line departs from a few minutes away from the airport directly to the city center. Tickets are bought directly from the driver, and you can pay by card. They are reliable, but unlike the tram, they can be slowed down by road traffic.
After checking in and unpacking, it's time for a first look around. Princes Street is the city's main artery and the perfect place to start. One side of the street is lined with shops (H&M, Zara, standard high street), but the other side is the reason to walk this way. The view of Edinburgh Castle towering above Princes Street Gardens is one of the best backdrops in all of Scotland. Stop by the parks below the castle, especially if the sun is shining. The locals come here to relax, and you'll soon understand why.
Marks & Spencer Food Hall
An ideal stop for your first evening – great ready-made meals, Scottish cheeses, sandwiches, desserts, fruit, vegetables, meat, and plenty more – including a dining area at reasonable prices. A perfect choice if you're tired from the journey and don't feel like hunting for a restaurant right away. Naturally, there are also plenty of souvenir shops, bookstores, and many other stores here.
Your luggage is stowed, your feet don't hurt yet, and you're not ready for sleep. Rose Street is exactly for moments like this. This unassuming alley runs right behind Princes Street and is often overlooked by tourists—which is their mistake and your advantage. No big signs, no inflated prices, no touts with menus by the door. Just a row of pubs side-by-side, locals enjoying a pint, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to Edinburgh just the way it should. Two places you can't miss.
- Dirty Dick's - a classic Scottish pub where time has stopped at just the right point. No modern gadgets, no posing, just a proper pub as it should be.
- And then Amber Rose - a sports pub with plenty of TVs, yet with an authentically Scottish soul. If a match is on, the atmosphere will pull you right in. And they have whisky here too. Tell the bartender you're in Edinburgh for the first time and want something typically Scottish. A good bartender will take care of you.
Rose Street is also the perfect opportunity for your first chat with the locals. Scots are friendly and love talking about their city, and the tips you get from them won't be found in any guidebook. Just watch out for the treacherous question, "How is it here in England with..." It’s best to just forget the words England or English for this weekend 😀
After a drink or two, you can head back to the hotel. A big day awaits you tomorrow, and Edinburgh requires well-rested feet.
Edinburgh in full force. Get ready for lots of walking, plenty of history, and an almost certain dilemma at the end of the day. Holyrood, Parliament, the Dungeon, or a museum? There won't be time for everything, but that's the best thing about Edinburgh: there’s always a reason to come back.
Start early, the castle opens at 9:30 and the crowds arrive quickly. The view of the city from the castle walls is something you'll remember for a long time. Save some time for the interiors — the Honours of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny are well worth it. Also, take a look at the dog cemetery, or if your tour lands at 1 p.m., don't miss the cannon fire. It’s been a tradition since 1861 and once served mainly to synchronize chronometers for ships in the harbor. Count on at least two hours. Even if you're willing to get up early, it's better to book your tickets online in advance.
From the castle, your feet will naturally lead you down the Royal Mile, the main artery of the Old Town. A mile-long street packed with shops, pubs, street musicians, and history at every turn. Don't be tempted by the first souvenir shops right by the castle; the better and cheaper ones are further down. On the way down, keep an eye out for the side alleys, known as "closes"—narrow passages hiding courtyards and stories that don't make it into the guidebooks. One tip, however, might change your whole day's itinerary—The Scotch Whisky Experience, just a short walk from the castle—it's like a whisky museum (note: whisky, not whiskey!). Use the old Gaelic name "uisge beatha" (oosh-ge be-ha) and you'll be a local favorite; plenty of types and brands of whisky not just to see, but mainly to taste! Right opposite is a "safer" attraction, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions. If you have kids with you, that's definitely the better idea 😉
There is also a really renowned restaurant, The Witchery. If you want to feel like Scottish nobility for a while, don't hesitate to book a table for dinner. It will be an experience that stays with you for a long time.
About halfway down the Royal Mile, turn left onto Victoria Street. This is postcard-perfect Edinburgh: a curved, cobbled street with colorful shop fronts. It's said to have inspired J.K. Rowling when she was writing Diagon Alley for Harry Potter. Whether that's true or not, the atmosphere here is magical. It's an ideal spot for a coffee and your first rest stop. You'll be reminded that it might not just be a legend when you see something like "The Harry Potter Museum". It’s not a museum in the traditional sense, but if you want to take home a piece of the wizarding world, where else would you buy a real wand! Or there's a branch of the famous café where Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books, where you can even get a genuine butterbeer—the actual original café is a bit further on, and we'll get to that one, too.
Just a few steps from Victoria Street, you'll find Greyfriars Kirk, an old church with a graveyard that's one of the most atmospheric spots in all of Edinburgh. The cemetery is free to enter and a must-see for history and architecture lovers. Don't forget to look for the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a little Scottish Terrier who reportedly guarded his master's grave for fourteen whole years. It's a local legend that will definitely tug at your heartstrings. But please, don't touch Bobby's nose; it's a habit that's really damaging the statue. And for Harry Potter fans, I highly recommend reading the names on the tombstones—you'll find quite a few characters from the books there. And for those who aren't fans, there's also Greyfriars Bobby's bar with great local beer and food.
Even if you're not a huge fan of museums, you definitely shouldn't miss the main hall. It's free, which is a great reason in itself. It's a massive museum with a fascinating collection ranging from prehistoric times to modern Scotland. You can spend an entire afternoon here and never get bored. Plus, the famous Dolly the sheep is here, too. It's a perfect choice if it's raining outside—and in Edinburgh, you should always be prepared for that.
Right at the foot of the Royal Mile stands the Scottish Parliament building—and it's worth seeing from the outside. The controversial modern architecture by Spanish architect Enric Mirales still divides locals—some love it, others can't figure out what it actually is. Form your own opinion. Admission to the building is free, and on certain days you can also visit the debating chamber. Definitely worth a short stop.
At the end of the Royal Mile, far from the bustle of the castle, lies Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. While Edinburgh Castle is a fortress, Holyrood is a palace in the true sense of the word: magnificent state apartments, tapestries, and portraits of Scottish kings and queens stretching across the walls. History breathes from every corner here.
The palace's most compelling story belongs to Mary, Queen of Scots. This is where she lived, ruled, and experienced some of the darkest moments of her turbulent life, including the murder of her secretary, Rizzio, right before her eyes. Guides tell the story with gusto, and it’s one of those moments when you realize that Scottish history is anything but boring. Before you enter the palace, look down at your feet. Right in front of the entrance gate, you'll find three brass letters "S" in the pavement. They are inconspicuous, but they have a fascinating story. From the 16th century, Holyrood served as a sanctuary for debtors; so-called "Abbey lairds" hid here from creditors within the boundaries of the monastery grounds, which included Holyrood Park. Debtors who stayed within a five-mile radius of the abbey were protected from civil law and could not be arrested. On Sundays, they could even freely go out into the city, as Scottish law did not allow legal proceedings on that day. Between 1686 and 1880, over 6,500 people sought protection here. The sanctuary was only abolished in 1880, when imprisonment for debt was ended.
Allow yourself an hour to an hour and a half for the visit. And if you’re feeling good on your feet, it’s worth at least stopping by the entrance gate to look at the dramatic rock formation of Arthur’s Seat right above the palace. Save the hike up for another time, though—that’s a trip all on its own.
Today you'll leave the tourist center and see a different side of Edinburgh. Leith is a port district with a soul of its own—a bit gritty, very authentic, and one of the most exciting parts of the city in recent years. Get ready for golf, history, great food, and a ship that once hosted the British royal family.
Directly from Princes Street, we can take the tram. Get off the tram (at the Balfour Street stop) and take a short detour to Leith Links, a vast park with a unique place in the history of world sports. Golf was played here long before anyone started officially recording it. The oldest records from 1552–1554 mention local disputes between leather ball makers, and the royal court visited regularly; Charles I and James VII played here.
According to legend, 1682 brought the very first international golf match. The Duke of York and a local shoemaker defeated two English noblemen, supposedly deciding the Scottish origin of the entire sport once and for all.
Then came 1744. The city of Edinburgh donated a silver club as a prize and insisted on the drafting of rules as a condition, thus creating the very first official rules of golf in the world. The winner of the first tournament was the surgeon John Rattray, whose bronze statue stands today in the northern part of the park near the bowling greens.
Today, you won't find a permanent golf course here, just a vast park with picnic meadows and tennis courts. But once a year, history returns, and a tournament with historical clubs is played again at Leith Links.
From Leith Links, head over to The Shore, the historic waterfront along the Water of Leith. The Shore is a charming street with a vibe that feels a bit like Copenhagen’s famous Nyhavn. Once Edinburgh's main port, it's now lined with bars and restaurants serving local ale and fresh seafood. The atmosphere here is completely different from the Old Town—quieter, more local, and all the more pleasant for it.
On your way, be sure to stop by The King's Wark, a pub with a history that few places in the world can match. Originally built in 1434 as a royal residence, storehouse, and private armoury for James I, it has served over the centuries as a smuggler's hideout, a plague hospital, a weigh station, and a wine merchant. The building was rebuilt by Mary, Queen of Scots, after being almost entirely destroyed during the English invasion of 1544. Today, they serve some of the best gastropub food in Edinburgh—think fresh seafood, game, and Scottish classics. And the beer tastes that much better when you know what you’re sitting on.
Alternatively, stop for lunch at the Shore Bar right on the waterfront for fresh seafood, Scottish cuisine, and river views. It’s the perfect spot for a proper break before the afternoon.
At the end of the waterfront, you’ll find the Victoria Swing Bridge. As the largest counterweighted swing bridge in Scotland, built in 1874, it’s a masterpiece of Victorian engineering with its hydraulic mechanism and elegant iron structure. The bridge is free to access and a must-see for photographers and architecture lovers alike.
After a walk along the Shore, hop back on the tram or take a nice stroll to one of Edinburgh's best attractions that many tourists overlook. The Royal Yacht Britannia served the British Royal Family for 44 years and covered over a million nautical miles. Today, it is perfectly preserved as a floating museum, visited by over 300,000 people each year.
There are five decks waiting for you on board. You'll see the royal quarters, the state dining room and drawing room, the Queen's bedroom, and the ship's behind-the-scenes areas, including the engine room and laundry. You'll see the garage for the Queen's Rolls Royce Phantom, which traveled with her on every voyage, as well as the only room with a double bed—the honeymoon suite, where four royal couples spent their honeymoons. All four marriages ended in divorce.
The lesser-known stories are also worth mentioning. In a secret Cold War plan, Britannia was intended to serve as a refuge for the Queen and Prince Philip in the event of a nuclear attack, hidden in the Scottish fjords. In 1986, it was diverted to evacuate civilians from the Yemeni Civil War. And it was on its deck that Prince Charles and the last British governor symbolically left Hong Kong upon its handover to China.
Plan on at least two hours; it would be a shame to rush. An audio guide in Czech is available, so you won't miss a single detail. We recommend buying tickets online in advance, as the queue at the ticket office can be long. And definitely don't miss the classic tea—you don't have to wait until five!
If you're not into rugby, no worries. Murrayfield is worth a visit regardless. Scotland's largest stadium, with a capacity of 67,144, has a history dating back to 1925, when it opened with a Scotland victory over England and a Grand Slam win. During World War II, it served as an army depot, yet it still managed to host a Scotland vs. England match every year. This remains the highlight of the season to this day, and the match is definitely worth seeing, even though getting a ticket is almost impossible.
The attendance record dates back to 1975, when 104,000 spectators gathered for the Scotland vs. Wales match—a number that current safety regulations no longer allow to be surpassed. Outside of rugby, it has hosted the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Bon Jovi, the Foo Fighters, and even the Pope in 1982.
A stadium tour takes you through the players' tunnel, into the changing rooms, and right out onto the pitch. Experienced guides cover the history of Scottish rugby, legendary stories, and behind-the-scenes glimpses of the stadium. Sitting in the seat of one of the famous players in the changing room is an experience that fans describe as one of the most powerful moments of their entire visit to Edinburgh. We recommend booking tour tickets in advance.
If the stadium doesn't catch your eye, hop on bus 31 and after about 8 stops, you'll arrive at another local gem: Edinburgh Zoo. It opened its gates in 1913 and was the very first zoo in the world to house and breed penguins. And to this day, those penguins are still its biggest stars.
The daily penguin parade actually started by accident; in the 1950s, a zookeeper forgot to close the enclosure, and the penguins went for a stroll on their own. The mishap turned into a tradition that continues to this day. Living among the penguins is a certain Sir Nils Olav, the official mascot of the Norwegian King's Guard, who was knighted in 2008 and has his own collection of medals.
After World War II, a bear named Wojtek lived here, having served in the ranks of the Polish army. As an orphaned cub, he was adopted in Iran in 1943 by Polish soldiers who refused to return to communist Poland after the war and stayed in exile in Scotland. Wojtek spent the rest of his life at the Edinburgh Zoo, where his old comrades-in-arms visited him regularly. If you noticed the bronze statue of a soldier with a bear in Princes Street Gardens, that was him.
Plan for an entire afternoon. There are over a thousand animals of nearly two hundred species, including koalas, chimpanzees, bears, and endangered species like Amur leopards or Sumatran tigers. Details about the zoo can be found here
Your last day in Edinburgh. No rush, no must-see routes. Today, you choose. It all depends on your mood, the weather, and how much energy you have left after the previous days. Just plan your schedule around your flight time.
Bus number 37 runs directly from Princes Street (a standard ticket is valid) to a gem of Dan Brown's work. Rosslyn Chapel was founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, and its mysterious stone carvings have attracted visitors, artists, and writers for centuries. Brown described it as the most mysterious and magical chapel in the world and set the finale of The Da Vinci Code there—a book that sold 81 million copies. Since then, visitors from all over the world have been flocking here. But even without The Da Vinci Code, the chapel would be worth a visit.
Inside, several mysteries await that you'll take home with you. The most famous is the Apprentice Pillar. Eight feet tall, wrapped in vines and dragons at the base. Legend has it that an apprentice carved it from a dream while the master was away in Rome. Upon his return, the master killed the apprentice with a mallet out of jealousy. The master's face is carved in the corner opposite the pillar, condemned to gaze at the apprentice's masterpiece for eternity.
And then there's the corn. A cob of corn, a plant native to America, is carved into one of the arches. Yet, the chapel was founded 50 years before Columbus discovered America. No one has been able to explain this satisfactorily yet. Rabbie's Tours
Book your tickets in advance; the visit is divided into 90-minute slots, and places fill up fast. Official website
If you're looking for a peaceful walk in the greenery after days filled with walking and history, head to the Botanic Garden.
The garden was established in 1670 as a small medicinal garden near Holyrood, the size of a tennis court back then. Today, it spans 70 hectares and houses over 13,000 plant species. It is the second oldest botanic garden in Britain, right after Oxford, and its centerpiece is the Temperate Palm House from 1858, which remains the tallest palm house in the UK to this day. MercattoursBritain Express
Entry to the garden is free. There is a fee for the glasshouses, but it's worth it. And the view of Edinburgh Castle from the hill in the garden is one you won't soon forget.
An ideal spot for a slow morning, a coffee, and one last look at the city before you head off.
Don't forget to be at the airport at least 2 hours before your flight.
At the end of this trip, you probably won't have Edinburgh all figured out. You won't have checked off every sight, every pub, every view, or every story. And that's a good thing. Edinburgh isn't a city to tick off a list, but one to slowly get addicted to. Four days are enough for the first enchantment, the first whisky, the first climb up a hill, and the first sentence: "We definitely weren't here for the last time."
itinerary by David Forbelsky
Four days are enough to fall in love with Edinburgh, but not enough to get to know it all. That’s exactly how it should be. This itinerary will take you through the best the city has to offer: from the castle in the mist and the Royal Mile to your first glass of authentic Scotch whisky. And when you head home feeling like you've only just scratched the surface, I've got a few sequels ready for you.
On the day of arrival, just a light introduction to the place.
Arrival in Edinburgh. After landing, you'll go through passport control; the vast majority of Czech travelers will breeze through the biometric gates quickly and without waiting. Then, just pick up your luggage and head into the city.
- Tram - the best choice. Forget about taxis or buses. There's a direct tram line from the airport to the city center that doesn't deal with traffic jams or complications, and it will reliably take you all the way to Leith. You can buy tickets at a machine just outside the terminal exit (the machine takes cards, so no need to scramble for cash). There are almost always staff members there who are happy to help. The price is around 12 pounds, but it's better to check the carrier's current website before your trip. Do not validate your ticket on the tram; a conductor will come around. Store your suitcases in the shelves specifically designated for them.
- Alternative: Airport Express. If your accommodation is outside the tram route, the 100 bus line departs from a few minutes away from the airport directly to the city center. Tickets are bought directly from the driver, and you can pay by card. They are reliable, but unlike the tram, they can be slowed down by road traffic.
After checking in and unpacking, it's time for a first look around. Princes Street is the city's main artery and the perfect place to start. One side of the street is lined with shops (H&M, Zara, standard high street), but the other side is the reason to walk this way. The view of Edinburgh Castle towering above Princes Street Gardens is one of the best backdrops in all of Scotland. Stop by the parks below the castle, especially if the sun is shining. The locals come here to relax, and you'll soon understand why.
Marks & Spencer Food Hall
An ideal stop for your first evening – great ready-made meals, Scottish cheeses, sandwiches, desserts, fruit, vegetables, meat, and plenty more – including a dining area at reasonable prices. A perfect choice if you're tired from the journey and don't feel like hunting for a restaurant right away. Naturally, there are also plenty of souvenir shops, bookstores, and many other stores here.
Your luggage is stowed, your feet don't hurt yet, and you're not ready for sleep. Rose Street is exactly for moments like this. This unassuming alley runs right behind Princes Street and is often overlooked by tourists—which is their mistake and your advantage. No big signs, no inflated prices, no touts with menus by the door. Just a row of pubs side-by-side, locals enjoying a pint, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to Edinburgh just the way it should. Two places you can't miss.
- Dirty Dick's - a classic Scottish pub where time has stopped at just the right point. No modern gadgets, no posing, just a proper pub as it should be.
- And then Amber Rose - a sports pub with plenty of TVs, yet with an authentically Scottish soul. If a match is on, the atmosphere will pull you right in. And they have whisky here too. Tell the bartender you're in Edinburgh for the first time and want something typically Scottish. A good bartender will take care of you.
Rose Street is also the perfect opportunity for your first chat with the locals. Scots are friendly and love talking about their city, and the tips you get from them won't be found in any guidebook. Just watch out for the treacherous question, "How is it here in England with..." It’s best to just forget the words England or English for this weekend 😀
After a drink or two, you can head back to the hotel. A big day awaits you tomorrow, and Edinburgh requires well-rested feet.
Edinburgh in full force. Get ready for lots of walking, plenty of history, and an almost certain dilemma at the end of the day. Holyrood, Parliament, the Dungeon, or a museum? There won't be time for everything, but that's the best thing about Edinburgh: there’s always a reason to come back.
Start early, the castle opens at 9:30 and the crowds arrive quickly. The view of the city from the castle walls is something you'll remember for a long time. Save some time for the interiors — the Honours of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny are well worth it. Also, take a look at the dog cemetery, or if your tour lands at 1 p.m., don't miss the cannon fire. It’s been a tradition since 1861 and once served mainly to synchronize chronometers for ships in the harbor. Count on at least two hours. Even if you're willing to get up early, it's better to book your tickets online in advance.
From the castle, your feet will naturally lead you down the Royal Mile, the main artery of the Old Town. A mile-long street packed with shops, pubs, street musicians, and history at every turn. Don't be tempted by the first souvenir shops right by the castle; the better and cheaper ones are further down. On the way down, keep an eye out for the side alleys, known as "closes"—narrow passages hiding courtyards and stories that don't make it into the guidebooks. One tip, however, might change your whole day's itinerary—The Scotch Whisky Experience, just a short walk from the castle—it's like a whisky museum (note: whisky, not whiskey!). Use the old Gaelic name "uisge beatha" (oosh-ge be-ha) and you'll be a local favorite; plenty of types and brands of whisky not just to see, but mainly to taste! Right opposite is a "safer" attraction, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions. If you have kids with you, that's definitely the better idea 😉
There is also a really renowned restaurant, The Witchery. If you want to feel like Scottish nobility for a while, don't hesitate to book a table for dinner. It will be an experience that stays with you for a long time.
About halfway down the Royal Mile, turn left onto Victoria Street. This is postcard-perfect Edinburgh: a curved, cobbled street with colorful shop fronts. It's said to have inspired J.K. Rowling when she was writing Diagon Alley for Harry Potter. Whether that's true or not, the atmosphere here is magical. It's an ideal spot for a coffee and your first rest stop. You'll be reminded that it might not just be a legend when you see something like "The Harry Potter Museum". It’s not a museum in the traditional sense, but if you want to take home a piece of the wizarding world, where else would you buy a real wand! Or there's a branch of the famous café where Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books, where you can even get a genuine butterbeer—the actual original café is a bit further on, and we'll get to that one, too.
Just a few steps from Victoria Street, you'll find Greyfriars Kirk, an old church with a graveyard that's one of the most atmospheric spots in all of Edinburgh. The cemetery is free to enter and a must-see for history and architecture lovers. Don't forget to look for the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a little Scottish Terrier who reportedly guarded his master's grave for fourteen whole years. It's a local legend that will definitely tug at your heartstrings. But please, don't touch Bobby's nose; it's a habit that's really damaging the statue. And for Harry Potter fans, I highly recommend reading the names on the tombstones—you'll find quite a few characters from the books there. And for those who aren't fans, there's also Greyfriars Bobby's bar with great local beer and food.
Even if you're not a huge fan of museums, you definitely shouldn't miss the main hall. It's free, which is a great reason in itself. It's a massive museum with a fascinating collection ranging from prehistoric times to modern Scotland. You can spend an entire afternoon here and never get bored. Plus, the famous Dolly the sheep is here, too. It's a perfect choice if it's raining outside—and in Edinburgh, you should always be prepared for that.
Right at the foot of the Royal Mile stands the Scottish Parliament building—and it's worth seeing from the outside. The controversial modern architecture by Spanish architect Enric Mirales still divides locals—some love it, others can't figure out what it actually is. Form your own opinion. Admission to the building is free, and on certain days you can also visit the debating chamber. Definitely worth a short stop.
At the end of the Royal Mile, far from the bustle of the castle, lies Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. While Edinburgh Castle is a fortress, Holyrood is a palace in the true sense of the word: magnificent state apartments, tapestries, and portraits of Scottish kings and queens stretching across the walls. History breathes from every corner here.
The palace's most compelling story belongs to Mary, Queen of Scots. This is where she lived, ruled, and experienced some of the darkest moments of her turbulent life, including the murder of her secretary, Rizzio, right before her eyes. Guides tell the story with gusto, and it’s one of those moments when you realize that Scottish history is anything but boring. Before you enter the palace, look down at your feet. Right in front of the entrance gate, you'll find three brass letters "S" in the pavement. They are inconspicuous, but they have a fascinating story. From the 16th century, Holyrood served as a sanctuary for debtors; so-called "Abbey lairds" hid here from creditors within the boundaries of the monastery grounds, which included Holyrood Park. Debtors who stayed within a five-mile radius of the abbey were protected from civil law and could not be arrested. On Sundays, they could even freely go out into the city, as Scottish law did not allow legal proceedings on that day. Between 1686 and 1880, over 6,500 people sought protection here. The sanctuary was only abolished in 1880, when imprisonment for debt was ended.
Allow yourself an hour to an hour and a half for the visit. And if you’re feeling good on your feet, it’s worth at least stopping by the entrance gate to look at the dramatic rock formation of Arthur’s Seat right above the palace. Save the hike up for another time, though—that’s a trip all on its own.
Today you'll leave the tourist center and see a different side of Edinburgh. Leith is a port district with a soul of its own—a bit gritty, very authentic, and one of the most exciting parts of the city in recent years. Get ready for golf, history, great food, and a ship that once hosted the British royal family.
Directly from Princes Street, we can take the tram. Get off the tram (at the Balfour Street stop) and take a short detour to Leith Links, a vast park with a unique place in the history of world sports. Golf was played here long before anyone started officially recording it. The oldest records from 1552–1554 mention local disputes between leather ball makers, and the royal court visited regularly; Charles I and James VII played here.
According to legend, 1682 brought the very first international golf match. The Duke of York and a local shoemaker defeated two English noblemen, supposedly deciding the Scottish origin of the entire sport once and for all.
Then came 1744. The city of Edinburgh donated a silver club as a prize and insisted on the drafting of rules as a condition, thus creating the very first official rules of golf in the world. The winner of the first tournament was the surgeon John Rattray, whose bronze statue stands today in the northern part of the park near the bowling greens.
Today, you won't find a permanent golf course here, just a vast park with picnic meadows and tennis courts. But once a year, history returns, and a tournament with historical clubs is played again at Leith Links.
From Leith Links, head over to The Shore, the historic waterfront along the Water of Leith. The Shore is a charming street with a vibe that feels a bit like Copenhagen’s famous Nyhavn. Once Edinburgh's main port, it's now lined with bars and restaurants serving local ale and fresh seafood. The atmosphere here is completely different from the Old Town—quieter, more local, and all the more pleasant for it.
On your way, be sure to stop by The King's Wark, a pub with a history that few places in the world can match. Originally built in 1434 as a royal residence, storehouse, and private armoury for James I, it has served over the centuries as a smuggler's hideout, a plague hospital, a weigh station, and a wine merchant. The building was rebuilt by Mary, Queen of Scots, after being almost entirely destroyed during the English invasion of 1544. Today, they serve some of the best gastropub food in Edinburgh—think fresh seafood, game, and Scottish classics. And the beer tastes that much better when you know what you’re sitting on.
Alternatively, stop for lunch at the Shore Bar right on the waterfront for fresh seafood, Scottish cuisine, and river views. It’s the perfect spot for a proper break before the afternoon.
At the end of the waterfront, you’ll find the Victoria Swing Bridge. As the largest counterweighted swing bridge in Scotland, built in 1874, it’s a masterpiece of Victorian engineering with its hydraulic mechanism and elegant iron structure. The bridge is free to access and a must-see for photographers and architecture lovers alike.
After a walk along the Shore, hop back on the tram or take a nice stroll to one of Edinburgh's best attractions that many tourists overlook. The Royal Yacht Britannia served the British Royal Family for 44 years and covered over a million nautical miles. Today, it is perfectly preserved as a floating museum, visited by over 300,000 people each year.
There are five decks waiting for you on board. You'll see the royal quarters, the state dining room and drawing room, the Queen's bedroom, and the ship's behind-the-scenes areas, including the engine room and laundry. You'll see the garage for the Queen's Rolls Royce Phantom, which traveled with her on every voyage, as well as the only room with a double bed—the honeymoon suite, where four royal couples spent their honeymoons. All four marriages ended in divorce.
The lesser-known stories are also worth mentioning. In a secret Cold War plan, Britannia was intended to serve as a refuge for the Queen and Prince Philip in the event of a nuclear attack, hidden in the Scottish fjords. In 1986, it was diverted to evacuate civilians from the Yemeni Civil War. And it was on its deck that Prince Charles and the last British governor symbolically left Hong Kong upon its handover to China.
Plan on at least two hours; it would be a shame to rush. An audio guide in Czech is available, so you won't miss a single detail. We recommend buying tickets online in advance, as the queue at the ticket office can be long. And definitely don't miss the classic tea—you don't have to wait until five!
If you're not into rugby, no worries. Murrayfield is worth a visit regardless. Scotland's largest stadium, with a capacity of 67,144, has a history dating back to 1925, when it opened with a Scotland victory over England and a Grand Slam win. During World War II, it served as an army depot, yet it still managed to host a Scotland vs. England match every year. This remains the highlight of the season to this day, and the match is definitely worth seeing, even though getting a ticket is almost impossible.
The attendance record dates back to 1975, when 104,000 spectators gathered for the Scotland vs. Wales match—a number that current safety regulations no longer allow to be surpassed. Outside of rugby, it has hosted the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Bon Jovi, the Foo Fighters, and even the Pope in 1982.
A stadium tour takes you through the players' tunnel, into the changing rooms, and right out onto the pitch. Experienced guides cover the history of Scottish rugby, legendary stories, and behind-the-scenes glimpses of the stadium. Sitting in the seat of one of the famous players in the changing room is an experience that fans describe as one of the most powerful moments of their entire visit to Edinburgh. We recommend booking tour tickets in advance.
If the stadium doesn't catch your eye, hop on bus 31 and after about 8 stops, you'll arrive at another local gem: Edinburgh Zoo. It opened its gates in 1913 and was the very first zoo in the world to house and breed penguins. And to this day, those penguins are still its biggest stars.
The daily penguin parade actually started by accident; in the 1950s, a zookeeper forgot to close the enclosure, and the penguins went for a stroll on their own. The mishap turned into a tradition that continues to this day. Living among the penguins is a certain Sir Nils Olav, the official mascot of the Norwegian King's Guard, who was knighted in 2008 and has his own collection of medals.
After World War II, a bear named Wojtek lived here, having served in the ranks of the Polish army. As an orphaned cub, he was adopted in Iran in 1943 by Polish soldiers who refused to return to communist Poland after the war and stayed in exile in Scotland. Wojtek spent the rest of his life at the Edinburgh Zoo, where his old comrades-in-arms visited him regularly. If you noticed the bronze statue of a soldier with a bear in Princes Street Gardens, that was him.
Plan for an entire afternoon. There are over a thousand animals of nearly two hundred species, including koalas, chimpanzees, bears, and endangered species like Amur leopards or Sumatran tigers. Details about the zoo can be found here
Your last day in Edinburgh. No rush, no must-see routes. Today, you choose. It all depends on your mood, the weather, and how much energy you have left after the previous days. Just plan your schedule around your flight time.
Bus number 37 runs directly from Princes Street (a standard ticket is valid) to a gem of Dan Brown's work. Rosslyn Chapel was founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, and its mysterious stone carvings have attracted visitors, artists, and writers for centuries. Brown described it as the most mysterious and magical chapel in the world and set the finale of The Da Vinci Code there—a book that sold 81 million copies. Since then, visitors from all over the world have been flocking here. But even without The Da Vinci Code, the chapel would be worth a visit.
Inside, several mysteries await that you'll take home with you. The most famous is the Apprentice Pillar. Eight feet tall, wrapped in vines and dragons at the base. Legend has it that an apprentice carved it from a dream while the master was away in Rome. Upon his return, the master killed the apprentice with a mallet out of jealousy. The master's face is carved in the corner opposite the pillar, condemned to gaze at the apprentice's masterpiece for eternity.
And then there's the corn. A cob of corn, a plant native to America, is carved into one of the arches. Yet, the chapel was founded 50 years before Columbus discovered America. No one has been able to explain this satisfactorily yet. Rabbie's Tours
Book your tickets in advance; the visit is divided into 90-minute slots, and places fill up fast. Official website
If you're looking for a peaceful walk in the greenery after days filled with walking and history, head to the Botanic Garden.
The garden was established in 1670 as a small medicinal garden near Holyrood, the size of a tennis court back then. Today, it spans 70 hectares and houses over 13,000 plant species. It is the second oldest botanic garden in Britain, right after Oxford, and its centerpiece is the Temperate Palm House from 1858, which remains the tallest palm house in the UK to this day. MercattoursBritain Express
Entry to the garden is free. There is a fee for the glasshouses, but it's worth it. And the view of Edinburgh Castle from the hill in the garden is one you won't soon forget.
An ideal spot for a slow morning, a coffee, and one last look at the city before you head off.
Don't forget to be at the airport at least 2 hours before your flight.
At the end of this trip, you probably won't have Edinburgh all figured out. You won't have checked off every sight, every pub, every view, or every story. And that's a good thing. Edinburgh isn't a city to tick off a list, but one to slowly get addicted to. Four days are enough for the first enchantment, the first whisky, the first climb up a hill, and the first sentence: "We definitely weren't here for the last time."
Four days are enough to fall in love with Edinburgh, but not enough to get to know it all. That’s exactly how it should be. This itinerary will take you through the best the city has to offer: from the castle in the mist and the Royal Mile to your first glass of authentic Scotch whisky. And when you head home feeling like you've only just scratched the surface, I've got a few sequels ready for you.
On the day of arrival, just a light introduction to the place.
Arrival in Edinburgh. After landing, you'll go through passport control; the vast majority of Czech travelers will breeze through the biometric gates quickly and without waiting. Then, just pick up your luggage and head into the city.
- Tram - the best choice. Forget about taxis or buses. There's a direct tram line from the airport to the city center that doesn't deal with traffic jams or complications, and it will reliably take you all the way to Leith. You can buy tickets at a machine just outside the terminal exit (the machine takes cards, so no need to scramble for cash). There are almost always staff members there who are happy to help. The price is around 12 pounds, but it's better to check the carrier's current website before your trip. Do not validate your ticket on the tram; a conductor will come around. Store your suitcases in the shelves specifically designated for them.
- Alternative: Airport Express. If your accommodation is outside the tram route, the 100 bus line departs from a few minutes away from the airport directly to the city center. Tickets are bought directly from the driver, and you can pay by card. They are reliable, but unlike the tram, they can be slowed down by road traffic.
After checking in and unpacking, it's time for a first look around. Princes Street is the city's main artery and the perfect place to start. One side of the street is lined with shops (H&M, Zara, standard high street), but the other side is the reason to walk this way. The view of Edinburgh Castle towering above Princes Street Gardens is one of the best backdrops in all of Scotland. Stop by the parks below the castle, especially if the sun is shining. The locals come here to relax, and you'll soon understand why.
Marks & Spencer Food Hall
An ideal stop for your first evening – great ready-made meals, Scottish cheeses, sandwiches, desserts, fruit, vegetables, meat, and plenty more – including a dining area at reasonable prices. A perfect choice if you're tired from the journey and don't feel like hunting for a restaurant right away. Naturally, there are also plenty of souvenir shops, bookstores, and many other stores here.
Your luggage is stowed, your feet don't hurt yet, and you're not ready for sleep. Rose Street is exactly for moments like this. This unassuming alley runs right behind Princes Street and is often overlooked by tourists—which is their mistake and your advantage. No big signs, no inflated prices, no touts with menus by the door. Just a row of pubs side-by-side, locals enjoying a pint, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to Edinburgh just the way it should. Two places you can't miss.
- Dirty Dick's - a classic Scottish pub where time has stopped at just the right point. No modern gadgets, no posing, just a proper pub as it should be.
- And then Amber Rose - a sports pub with plenty of TVs, yet with an authentically Scottish soul. If a match is on, the atmosphere will pull you right in. And they have whisky here too. Tell the bartender you're in Edinburgh for the first time and want something typically Scottish. A good bartender will take care of you.
Rose Street is also the perfect opportunity for your first chat with the locals. Scots are friendly and love talking about their city, and the tips you get from them won't be found in any guidebook. Just watch out for the treacherous question, "How is it here in England with..." It’s best to just forget the words England or English for this weekend 😀
After a drink or two, you can head back to the hotel. A big day awaits you tomorrow, and Edinburgh requires well-rested feet.
Edinburgh in full force. Get ready for lots of walking, plenty of history, and an almost certain dilemma at the end of the day. Holyrood, Parliament, the Dungeon, or a museum? There won't be time for everything, but that's the best thing about Edinburgh: there’s always a reason to come back.
Start early, the castle opens at 9:30 and the crowds arrive quickly. The view of the city from the castle walls is something you'll remember for a long time. Save some time for the interiors — the Honours of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny are well worth it. Also, take a look at the dog cemetery, or if your tour lands at 1 p.m., don't miss the cannon fire. It’s been a tradition since 1861 and once served mainly to synchronize chronometers for ships in the harbor. Count on at least two hours. Even if you're willing to get up early, it's better to book your tickets online in advance.
From the castle, your feet will naturally lead you down the Royal Mile, the main artery of the Old Town. A mile-long street packed with shops, pubs, street musicians, and history at every turn. Don't be tempted by the first souvenir shops right by the castle; the better and cheaper ones are further down. On the way down, keep an eye out for the side alleys, known as "closes"—narrow passages hiding courtyards and stories that don't make it into the guidebooks. One tip, however, might change your whole day's itinerary—The Scotch Whisky Experience, just a short walk from the castle—it's like a whisky museum (note: whisky, not whiskey!). Use the old Gaelic name "uisge beatha" (oosh-ge be-ha) and you'll be a local favorite; plenty of types and brands of whisky not just to see, but mainly to taste! Right opposite is a "safer" attraction, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions. If you have kids with you, that's definitely the better idea 😉
There is also a really renowned restaurant, The Witchery. If you want to feel like Scottish nobility for a while, don't hesitate to book a table for dinner. It will be an experience that stays with you for a long time.
About halfway down the Royal Mile, turn left onto Victoria Street. This is postcard-perfect Edinburgh: a curved, cobbled street with colorful shop fronts. It's said to have inspired J.K. Rowling when she was writing Diagon Alley for Harry Potter. Whether that's true or not, the atmosphere here is magical. It's an ideal spot for a coffee and your first rest stop. You'll be reminded that it might not just be a legend when you see something like "The Harry Potter Museum". It’s not a museum in the traditional sense, but if you want to take home a piece of the wizarding world, where else would you buy a real wand! Or there's a branch of the famous café where Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books, where you can even get a genuine butterbeer—the actual original café is a bit further on, and we'll get to that one, too.
Just a few steps from Victoria Street, you'll find Greyfriars Kirk, an old church with a graveyard that's one of the most atmospheric spots in all of Edinburgh. The cemetery is free to enter and a must-see for history and architecture lovers. Don't forget to look for the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a little Scottish Terrier who reportedly guarded his master's grave for fourteen whole years. It's a local legend that will definitely tug at your heartstrings. But please, don't touch Bobby's nose; it's a habit that's really damaging the statue. And for Harry Potter fans, I highly recommend reading the names on the tombstones—you'll find quite a few characters from the books there. And for those who aren't fans, there's also Greyfriars Bobby's bar with great local beer and food.
Even if you're not a huge fan of museums, you definitely shouldn't miss the main hall. It's free, which is a great reason in itself. It's a massive museum with a fascinating collection ranging from prehistoric times to modern Scotland. You can spend an entire afternoon here and never get bored. Plus, the famous Dolly the sheep is here, too. It's a perfect choice if it's raining outside—and in Edinburgh, you should always be prepared for that.
Right at the foot of the Royal Mile stands the Scottish Parliament building—and it's worth seeing from the outside. The controversial modern architecture by Spanish architect Enric Mirales still divides locals—some love it, others can't figure out what it actually is. Form your own opinion. Admission to the building is free, and on certain days you can also visit the debating chamber. Definitely worth a short stop.
At the end of the Royal Mile, far from the bustle of the castle, lies Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. While Edinburgh Castle is a fortress, Holyrood is a palace in the true sense of the word: magnificent state apartments, tapestries, and portraits of Scottish kings and queens stretching across the walls. History breathes from every corner here.
The palace's most compelling story belongs to Mary, Queen of Scots. This is where she lived, ruled, and experienced some of the darkest moments of her turbulent life, including the murder of her secretary, Rizzio, right before her eyes. Guides tell the story with gusto, and it’s one of those moments when you realize that Scottish history is anything but boring. Before you enter the palace, look down at your feet. Right in front of the entrance gate, you'll find three brass letters "S" in the pavement. They are inconspicuous, but they have a fascinating story. From the 16th century, Holyrood served as a sanctuary for debtors; so-called "Abbey lairds" hid here from creditors within the boundaries of the monastery grounds, which included Holyrood Park. Debtors who stayed within a five-mile radius of the abbey were protected from civil law and could not be arrested. On Sundays, they could even freely go out into the city, as Scottish law did not allow legal proceedings on that day. Between 1686 and 1880, over 6,500 people sought protection here. The sanctuary was only abolished in 1880, when imprisonment for debt was ended.
Allow yourself an hour to an hour and a half for the visit. And if you’re feeling good on your feet, it’s worth at least stopping by the entrance gate to look at the dramatic rock formation of Arthur’s Seat right above the palace. Save the hike up for another time, though—that’s a trip all on its own.
Today you'll leave the tourist center and see a different side of Edinburgh. Leith is a port district with a soul of its own—a bit gritty, very authentic, and one of the most exciting parts of the city in recent years. Get ready for golf, history, great food, and a ship that once hosted the British royal family.
Directly from Princes Street, we can take the tram. Get off the tram (at the Balfour Street stop) and take a short detour to Leith Links, a vast park with a unique place in the history of world sports. Golf was played here long before anyone started officially recording it. The oldest records from 1552–1554 mention local disputes between leather ball makers, and the royal court visited regularly; Charles I and James VII played here.
According to legend, 1682 brought the very first international golf match. The Duke of York and a local shoemaker defeated two English noblemen, supposedly deciding the Scottish origin of the entire sport once and for all.
Then came 1744. The city of Edinburgh donated a silver club as a prize and insisted on the drafting of rules as a condition, thus creating the very first official rules of golf in the world. The winner of the first tournament was the surgeon John Rattray, whose bronze statue stands today in the northern part of the park near the bowling greens.
Today, you won't find a permanent golf course here, just a vast park with picnic meadows and tennis courts. But once a year, history returns, and a tournament with historical clubs is played again at Leith Links.
From Leith Links, head over to The Shore, the historic waterfront along the Water of Leith. The Shore is a charming street with a vibe that feels a bit like Copenhagen’s famous Nyhavn. Once Edinburgh's main port, it's now lined with bars and restaurants serving local ale and fresh seafood. The atmosphere here is completely different from the Old Town—quieter, more local, and all the more pleasant for it.
On your way, be sure to stop by The King's Wark, a pub with a history that few places in the world can match. Originally built in 1434 as a royal residence, storehouse, and private armoury for James I, it has served over the centuries as a smuggler's hideout, a plague hospital, a weigh station, and a wine merchant. The building was rebuilt by Mary, Queen of Scots, after being almost entirely destroyed during the English invasion of 1544. Today, they serve some of the best gastropub food in Edinburgh—think fresh seafood, game, and Scottish classics. And the beer tastes that much better when you know what you’re sitting on.
Alternatively, stop for lunch at the Shore Bar right on the waterfront for fresh seafood, Scottish cuisine, and river views. It’s the perfect spot for a proper break before the afternoon.
At the end of the waterfront, you’ll find the Victoria Swing Bridge. As the largest counterweighted swing bridge in Scotland, built in 1874, it’s a masterpiece of Victorian engineering with its hydraulic mechanism and elegant iron structure. The bridge is free to access and a must-see for photographers and architecture lovers alike.
After a walk along the Shore, hop back on the tram or take a nice stroll to one of Edinburgh's best attractions that many tourists overlook. The Royal Yacht Britannia served the British Royal Family for 44 years and covered over a million nautical miles. Today, it is perfectly preserved as a floating museum, visited by over 300,000 people each year.
There are five decks waiting for you on board. You'll see the royal quarters, the state dining room and drawing room, the Queen's bedroom, and the ship's behind-the-scenes areas, including the engine room and laundry. You'll see the garage for the Queen's Rolls Royce Phantom, which traveled with her on every voyage, as well as the only room with a double bed—the honeymoon suite, where four royal couples spent their honeymoons. All four marriages ended in divorce.
The lesser-known stories are also worth mentioning. In a secret Cold War plan, Britannia was intended to serve as a refuge for the Queen and Prince Philip in the event of a nuclear attack, hidden in the Scottish fjords. In 1986, it was diverted to evacuate civilians from the Yemeni Civil War. And it was on its deck that Prince Charles and the last British governor symbolically left Hong Kong upon its handover to China.
Plan on at least two hours; it would be a shame to rush. An audio guide in Czech is available, so you won't miss a single detail. We recommend buying tickets online in advance, as the queue at the ticket office can be long. And definitely don't miss the classic tea—you don't have to wait until five!
If you're not into rugby, no worries. Murrayfield is worth a visit regardless. Scotland's largest stadium, with a capacity of 67,144, has a history dating back to 1925, when it opened with a Scotland victory over England and a Grand Slam win. During World War II, it served as an army depot, yet it still managed to host a Scotland vs. England match every year. This remains the highlight of the season to this day, and the match is definitely worth seeing, even though getting a ticket is almost impossible.
The attendance record dates back to 1975, when 104,000 spectators gathered for the Scotland vs. Wales match—a number that current safety regulations no longer allow to be surpassed. Outside of rugby, it has hosted the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Bon Jovi, the Foo Fighters, and even the Pope in 1982.
A stadium tour takes you through the players' tunnel, into the changing rooms, and right out onto the pitch. Experienced guides cover the history of Scottish rugby, legendary stories, and behind-the-scenes glimpses of the stadium. Sitting in the seat of one of the famous players in the changing room is an experience that fans describe as one of the most powerful moments of their entire visit to Edinburgh. We recommend booking tour tickets in advance.
If the stadium doesn't catch your eye, hop on bus 31 and after about 8 stops, you'll arrive at another local gem: Edinburgh Zoo. It opened its gates in 1913 and was the very first zoo in the world to house and breed penguins. And to this day, those penguins are still its biggest stars.
The daily penguin parade actually started by accident; in the 1950s, a zookeeper forgot to close the enclosure, and the penguins went for a stroll on their own. The mishap turned into a tradition that continues to this day. Living among the penguins is a certain Sir Nils Olav, the official mascot of the Norwegian King's Guard, who was knighted in 2008 and has his own collection of medals.
After World War II, a bear named Wojtek lived here, having served in the ranks of the Polish army. As an orphaned cub, he was adopted in Iran in 1943 by Polish soldiers who refused to return to communist Poland after the war and stayed in exile in Scotland. Wojtek spent the rest of his life at the Edinburgh Zoo, where his old comrades-in-arms visited him regularly. If you noticed the bronze statue of a soldier with a bear in Princes Street Gardens, that was him.
Plan for an entire afternoon. There are over a thousand animals of nearly two hundred species, including koalas, chimpanzees, bears, and endangered species like Amur leopards or Sumatran tigers. Details about the zoo can be found here
Your last day in Edinburgh. No rush, no must-see routes. Today, you choose. It all depends on your mood, the weather, and how much energy you have left after the previous days. Just plan your schedule around your flight time.
Bus number 37 runs directly from Princes Street (a standard ticket is valid) to a gem of Dan Brown's work. Rosslyn Chapel was founded in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, and its mysterious stone carvings have attracted visitors, artists, and writers for centuries. Brown described it as the most mysterious and magical chapel in the world and set the finale of The Da Vinci Code there—a book that sold 81 million copies. Since then, visitors from all over the world have been flocking here. But even without The Da Vinci Code, the chapel would be worth a visit.
Inside, several mysteries await that you'll take home with you. The most famous is the Apprentice Pillar. Eight feet tall, wrapped in vines and dragons at the base. Legend has it that an apprentice carved it from a dream while the master was away in Rome. Upon his return, the master killed the apprentice with a mallet out of jealousy. The master's face is carved in the corner opposite the pillar, condemned to gaze at the apprentice's masterpiece for eternity.
And then there's the corn. A cob of corn, a plant native to America, is carved into one of the arches. Yet, the chapel was founded 50 years before Columbus discovered America. No one has been able to explain this satisfactorily yet. Rabbie's Tours
Book your tickets in advance; the visit is divided into 90-minute slots, and places fill up fast. Official website
If you're looking for a peaceful walk in the greenery after days filled with walking and history, head to the Botanic Garden.
The garden was established in 1670 as a small medicinal garden near Holyrood, the size of a tennis court back then. Today, it spans 70 hectares and houses over 13,000 plant species. It is the second oldest botanic garden in Britain, right after Oxford, and its centerpiece is the Temperate Palm House from 1858, which remains the tallest palm house in the UK to this day. MercattoursBritain Express
Entry to the garden is free. There is a fee for the glasshouses, but it's worth it. And the view of Edinburgh Castle from the hill in the garden is one you won't soon forget.
An ideal spot for a slow morning, a coffee, and one last look at the city before you head off.
Don't forget to be at the airport at least 2 hours before your flight.
At the end of this trip, you probably won't have Edinburgh all figured out. You won't have checked off every sight, every pub, every view, or every story. And that's a good thing. Edinburgh isn't a city to tick off a list, but one to slowly get addicted to. Four days are enough for the first enchantment, the first whisky, the first climb up a hill, and the first sentence: "We definitely weren't here for the last time."
