Everyone knows Rome. And everyone knows Tuscany. But what lies between these two regions? Come find out, because the neglected regions of Lazio and Umbria are really worth it. You'll experience authentic Italy with fewer tourists, taste great Umbrian wine and a host of other purely local delicacies. You'll discover a wealth of medieval towns and architectural gems. As a bonus, visit the bizarre 16th century monster park or be amazed by the world's largest man-made waterfall (built by the ancient Romans!). You'll also enjoy a refreshing dip in the beautiful Lake Bolsena.
You've arrived at an airport located near one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It would be a shame not to take advantage of it! Pick up your car on the way, settle in, relax, leave the heavier bags in the rooms and, if you have time left, go for a walk around Rome!
TIP: try my favourite Roman speciality here - supplì (it's a roll of risotto rice mixed with tomato sauce into which a piece of mozzarella is embedded - the whole roll is then wrapped in a triple layer and fried so that it is golden and crispy on the outside, but the mozzarella inside is beautifully melted - just delicious!). You can find it in any pizzeria (whether a pizza stand or a regular restaurant).
Rome is not our main destination. Plus, we don't have as much time as it deserves. That's why I won't burden you with places you shouldn't miss. Just go where your heart takes you. There is something to see everywhere, almost every corner of this ancient city will captivate you with its beauty. It's also almost impossible to miss Rome's famous landmarks (such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City and the Castel Sant'Angelo).
If you get really hungry in Rome and want to eat something really traditional... I recommend this restaurant with all my heart! Especially their Roman pasta recipes - Carbonara, Gricia, Amatriciana or Cacio e pepe. The portions are HUGE and especially delicious. You may pay a little more than other restaurants, but it's really worth it for the quality, authenticity and quantity. If you have leftover pasta (I don't think so, it's absolutely irresistible), you can have it wrapped. And you're set for lunch the next day!
We are looking forward to a unique trip to the charming art town of Calcata Vecchia, where we will meet cats and inspiring atmosphere on every corner. We will also visit the fascinating 16th century "monster park", where we will be amazed by mysterious statues and magical corners. And finally, we'll delve into history in picturesque Viterbo, a town full of medieval streets and stunning architecture!
No, we didn't go to India for a while. Calcata Vecchia is one of the towns in the Lazio region that is subject to wind erosion and may one day collapse. The state even abandoned it in the 1970s and wanted to let it disappear. But the locals joined forces, repopulated the town and made sure it was saved. This subculture of people live peaceful lives here, know and support each other, and many of them are engaged in various handicraft activities, the fruits of which they will be happy to show you. It's a very nice little town that enjoys many beautiful sights and countless happy street cats. It's also hard to get a phone signal here, you really do stop in time! However, if you visit the town outside of the weekend, it's likely to be very sleepy and many of the shops will be closed. Still, this place is worth a visit.
Calcata is full of excellent restaurants to choose from. But if you're just a little hungry, you can go to the local bakery, where you can buy just a slice of delicious pizza, or you can order a panino to go. You point to the pastry you like and the lady behind the counter puts in what you order. Most of the time it's a selection of different local salami, cheese, hams, but also a variety of pickled vegetables. You can then eat your panino in the main square in front of the church, where it's lovely to sit in the sun and watch the simple but oh-so-lovely rhythm of this sleepy town.
The magical "monster" park in Bomarzo is a truly extraordinary experience. It was created during the Mannerist period of the 16th century. It was commissioned by the warlord and art lover Piero Francesco Orsini, who dedicated the park to his late wife Giulia Farnese.
You will see a number of stone sculptures of strange shapes, set against the natural backdrop of the local forest. The sculptures are very evocative, and you will find yourself in a truly fantastic landscape.
The park has decayed over the centuries, but in the mid-20th century Salvador Dali visited the park and made a short film about it. The monuments were then restored in the 1970s and are now popular with tourists (especially Italian ones).
We will end the day in medieval Viterbo. This town will leave you breathing its old glory. It was once the seat of many popes!
Let the charm of the picturesque corners take you away and just wander around. It is not for nothing that the town used to be called "the city of a hundred towers and a hundred fountains", and it is hard to miss the local landmarks.
Or try my suggested route.
Park outside the city walls. There are plenty of adjacent streets where you can park for free. Head into the city just through St. Peter's Gate.
In the alleys of the old town you really are transported to medieval Viterbo. The stone houses, stacked one on top of the other, have stood here virtually untouched since the 13th century. Here you will find again picturesque corners, interspersed with small shops with local artists.
A part of the town is called "San Pellegrino" - the pilgrims' quarter.
Continue to the Palace of the Popes. This palace, as its name says, served as the residence of 9 different popes for 24 years (in the 13th century). This made the city more important and only flourished. The building is a jewel of medieval architecture. Its interiors have been renovated, but if you are a history and museum lover, you will surely enjoy your visit! With your ticket, you'll get access and audio guides for both the Colle del Duomo museum and the city's cathedral.
The cathedral is located next to the Papal Palace. It was built on ancient foundations in the 12th-13th century in Romanesque style. Subsequently, it has been modified several times. Its exterior is not so flashy, on the contrary, the interior will absorb you. Take a peek! You will find many statues, frescoes and chapels or even the tomb of one of the popes.
The very simple church of St. New Year's Eve is a pleasant stop while wandering through this city. It is a very old building (perhaps from the 10th century) with frescoes from the 16th century. Notice that one of the figures in the frescoes follows you wherever you go (just like the Mona Lisa). Can you guess which one?
The square in front of the church is also very picturesque and invites you to sit in the evening with a glass of good Umbrian wine.
This square has been the seat of the city's civil power since the 13th century (as opposed to the papal palace as the centre of ecclesiastical power). It is surrounded by a number of palaces that belonged mainly to wealthy noble families. The Palazzo dei priori (where the city magistrate's office was located) is definitely worth a visit. But if you don't have the time or inclination to wander around the museums, don't miss the magical terrace of this palace. It is entered through a passage in the façade and is free to enter. You will have a truly picturesque view of the Valle Faul and the Church of the Holy Trinity.
If you want to take away a nice souvenir from Viterbo or even something to wear, Via Roma is the place to go. There are plenty of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's the main corridor of the city, full of life. Especially in the evening.
Viterbo is bursting with great places to eat, you'll have no trouble finding your favourite spot on your own. My only tip is this bistro, which is really special. You'll be wowed by the welcoming atmosphere, the ubiquitous books (which are for sale), the friendly staff, and the top-notch food and drinks. There's even a floor for the little ones - if the kids are part of your traveling pack, this place will definitely be appreciated by them and you.
Today we will visit the magical Civita di Bagnoregio and relax by the beautiful Lake Bolsena (with a possible swim!).
Have a true Italian breakfast - a cornetto with strong Italian coffee and sugar (yes, you can have a cappuccino in the morning without anyone beating you up for it, traditionally it shouldn't be drunk after 11am) - and up you go for day two! But if you didn't enjoy Viterbo properly the day before, there's still time to do some walking.
Our first stop will be the doomed town, like Calcata Vecchia, which we have already visited. The cause is extensive erosion and landslides in the valley below the town. Slowly but surely, they are "biting off" the town's edges. The region is, of course, trying to save the town. But the town also offers many breathtaking views. There is only a narrow footbridge leading into the town, so you can enjoy it almost as in the Middle Ages - without the presence of cars. In addition, the town has only 11 permanent inhabitants, also a nice curiosity! Due to its size it is almost impossible to get lost in Civita. However, try to wander around and soak up its unique atmosphere. Don't miss the Renaissance city gate, Porta Albana, or the ancient San Donato Cathedral.
Buy tickets to the city either on site (in front of the footbridge) or online here: https://shop.articketing.com/en/monuments/civita-di-bagnoregio/tickets?s=civita-di-bagnoregio
Bolsena is a small town located on the volcanic lake of the same name, where locals go to cool off and recreate. And with the same motivation you are here too, so don't miss this opportunity. The lake is very picturesque and clean and will surely come in handy on hot days.
The town offers many restaurants (often with a view of the lake) and also a few sights. So don't forget to take a walk before/after dinner!
After two glorious days at Lago di Bolsena, hopefully you'll have the energy to explore more of this beautiful region.
Today we will have the opportunity to admire, for example, the beautiful cathedral in Orvieto and, if you have time, the picturesque Todi! If you fancy another swim, you have the opportunity in the morning! Then we're off beyond Lazio, to Umbria (the region of shade - l'ombra - because of the abundance of greenery that shade offers).
Our first stop in the Umbria region will be the town of Orvieto. Orvieto is especially proud of its beautiful "striped" cathedral, which you won't see anywhere else. But it offers much more. Let's take a look at its main sights and the other stops you shouldn't miss.
The cable car will take you from the lower, newer part of town (where you parked) to the old, medieval part. From the cable car, you will have beautiful views of the countryside. It's a comfortable, pleasant and fairly inexpensive way to get to the historic city centre.
The ticket price includes a bus to take you from the cable car to the centre. However, you can also walk, it's not that far!
The cable car departs every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes on Sundays and public holidays) from 7:15 am (from 8:00 am on public holidays and Sundays) until 8:30 pm. Children under six ride for free.
Just after getting off the cable car will be our first stop (don't worry, the bus ticket to the centre is worth 90 minutes).
This well was built at the instigation of Pope Clement VII, who, after the sack of Rome in 1527, moved to Orvieto, which was the only town near Rome that offered him a truly safe haven. However, the city would not have its own source of water in the event of a siege, so it needed a well.
The well is 53 metres deep and almost 14 metres wide. It has two spiral staircases down which donkeys and mules carried water. The well is so deep that the locals likened the descent to the bottom of the well to a journey to hell! Definitely worth a visit.
Children under six can visit the well again for free.
This is the main corso of Orvieto, where small boutiques, artists with local ceramics and other handicrafts are concentrated. Naturally, you'll also find a number of bars and restaurants. An ideal place to buy authentic souvenirs. Also, don't miss the excellent local Falesco wine.
TIP: check out the Delizie di Orvieto shop, you won't regret it!
This square has really stopped in time. Surrounded only by ancient buildings, the local markets, which take place every Thursday and Saturday, can also add to its authenticity. You can also admire the local Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a beautiful late Romanesque/early Gothic building with very interesting window trimmings (chequerboard relief) that you will perhaps only see in Orvieto. Towards the evening, the square becomes one of the centres of the local nightlife and starts to come alive!
And now we move on to the main attraction of the city - the local breathtaking Cathedral of the Assumption. It's really unusual in appearance. It was not for nothing that Pope Leo VIII called it "the golden lily of Italian cathedrals". Its construction began in 1290 at the instigation of the then Pope Urban IV. It was intended to serve as a repository for the holy relic, the "Shroud of Bolsena" (the shroud was stained with the blood of the host during Mass). The plasterwork of the cathedral is inspired by the cathedral of Siena. Likewise, the interior is very ornate and rich. Certainly worth a visit!
Umbria is very rich in finds from the Etruscan era. This museum, where you will find a number of vases and other ancient objects, is a testament to that. There is also an Etruscan necropolis or the foundations of a sanctuary. If you are interested in this fascinating ancient civilization, you have come to the right place!
Along the way, you will have beautiful views of Lago di Corbara. If you are hot and would like to cool off, it is better to take a cold shower at the hotel in the evening (or at its pool). Local swimming in Lago di Corbara is not recommended, it may be dangerous due to the hydroelectric plant that uses the lake.
On the way to Perugia you will pass by this beautiful town. If you have some time to spare, definitely stop here. The town is surrounded by three very well-preserved walls from the Etruscan, Roman (even Hannibal is said to have not conquered the local walls!) or medieval times. The town also grew in importance and size at that time, with around 40,000 inhabitants at the end of the thirteenth century! After that, however, its fame declined.
Today it is a picturesque sleepy town with many well-preserved buildings. Have a cake and coffee in the main square overlooking the town's cathedral and you won't regret this stop.
Today is reserved for discovering the beauty of Perugia. The rest you can relax in the Italian sun by the beautiful pool of your accommodation.
Perugia is a lively student town full of history and beautiful Umbrian architecture. It's also famous for its chocolate! Having been built on elevated ground, it offers divine views of both the city and its surroundings. Let's dive into its heart and discover its beauty!
Parking:
This is not exactly easy in Perugia. If you want to park safely, it is better to pay for parking, for example in this car park. If you are willing to take a little risk and leave your car in the free parking lots, I would recommend this place: the Case Bruciate Minimetro. The parking lot is right next to the minimetro stop, which will get you downtown quickly and cheaply. However, Perugia is not that big, you can walk to the center from both parking lots (you might just have to walk uphill a bit).
You might find this site useful: https://www.parkopedia.com/ - it will show you all the available parking spaces with tariffs.
This absolutely fascinating underground fortress was built in the 14th century by Pope Paul III as a symbol of the Church's power. Dozens of Etruscan and Roman houses, gates, churches and small monasteries had to be demolished for its construction.
Today, the fortress with its intricate travertine corridors is open to the public free of charge. Often in its corridors you will find museums of modern art. Especially after dark, the experience of this fortress becomes truly atmospheric. Try one of the guided night tours!
Many call this square one of the most beautiful in Italy. And no wonder! Flanked by the magnificent Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the splendid Palace dei Priori, it has been the seat of civil power since Roman times. The square is also dominated by the beautifully ornate Fontana Maggiore, a fountain built in the 13th century to celebrate the introduction of water to the city by the aqueduct. The square is still a major gathering place today, hosting festivals, concerts and conferences. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to attend one of these events!
Perugia is full of breathtaking views. This is perhaps the most beautiful for me. It's a small square with a little church and trees that offer shelter on sultry days. Ahead of you is a piece of the city, but also the beautiful Umbrian landscape. I could sit through an entire Italian siesta here!
This is the famous aqueduct from the 13th century that fed water to the Maggiore fountain and thus to the whole city. It fell into disuse in the 19th century, but part of it was preserved and today it makes a pleasant path above the town, offering plenty of quirky views of local houses or gardens. Start your walk at the Brizi restaurant and head down the aqueduct. There's plenty to admire!
The Etruscan Arch (or the Arch of Augustus - the arch was restored by Emperor Augustus after his victory in the Perusinian War) is one of the 7 ancient gates in the walls of Perugia. This gate was built in the third century BC and was the main entrance to the city. It has been only slightly modified over the centuries - in the 17th century a fountain and a loggia were added to its tower - so you can admire an authentic pre-Crusader structure, including the famous building techniques of the Etruscan people - the gate, for example, was constructed without the use of mortar.
It is fascinating to be in the presence of such an old and so well-preserved monument. I wonder what it has witnessed over all these years!
If you go through the gate and continue up the street, you will find yourself back at the cathedral in the centre in a few minutes.
Were you hungry while wandering around Perugia? Would you like a really delicious authentic pizza? Go to Coffe and Cigarette. Their pizza is truly "heaven in your mouth". Soft dough with higher edges (the Neapolitan kind of pizza) and a perfectly balanced centre made with the best local ingredients. I was absolutely delighted with the local pizza (and the very innovative way of ordering and communicating with the staff). Try it, your palate will be grateful!
For excellent local wine and an excellent selection of local cured meats and cheeses, I would definitely send you to Daje Perugia! This restaurant can serve as a very cosy and charismatic retreat for sampling all sorts of delicacies served with Umbrian-style bread/pizza torta al testo, but you can easily have a full meal here (even vegetarians!). You'll dream (as I did) of their smoked scamorza (a type of Italian cheese) melted in a small baking dish with truffle sauce.
But make sure you reserve your seat, it tends to get crowded!
Today we will visit the magical Assisi, a city with a unique atmosphere and rich history. We will walk through the picturesque streets, admire the breathtaking architecture and visit the famous pilgrimage site - the birthplace of Saint Francis. Let yourself be carried away by the tranquillity of this spiritual centre and enjoy the unique view of the surrounding countryside.
If you are inclined to the Christian faith, Assisi will be not only a feast for your eyes, but also a spiritual experience. However, as in the other cities we have already visited, architecture, history and art lovers will also find it to their liking.Parking in this underground car park costs 1.50 euros per hour. It's a short walk to the centre.
You shouldn't miss the city's most famous landmark, the Basilica of St. Francis, which is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Italy and has been a World Heritage Site since 2000, as it is one of the oldest and most important buildings of Italian Gothic architecture.In the nave of the upper church you will find beautiful frescoes by Giotto depicting scenes from the saint's life (look closely, you will find an ancient temple depicted here, which we will later visit in the city centre). Here you will find the tomb of both St. Francis (the hidden tomb was only discovered in 1818) and St. Clare (who corresponded with our own Agnes of Bohemia in the 13th century).
Admission to the basilica is free.
This temple will probably surprise you with its appearance, because it does not fit into the medieval character of the city. But it is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in Italy, along with the Roman Pantheon. It was built here in 41 BC and was probably originally dedicated to the god Hercules.
Giotto himself was so fascinated by the building that he depicted it in his frescoes in the Basilica of St Francis, which we've just seen. The building is 15 metres high, 17 metres long and its entrance is flanked by 6 massive Corinthian columns. Absolutely beautiful!
Rodina Zubboli opened her small, modest shop with books and handicrafts made of paper as early as 1870. The shop takes you back to a time without the conveniences of modern technology. It smells of the love of paper. And the owners are very nice! Maybe you will find a suitable authentic souvenir here and support the small business of this lovely family.
We visit the last Umbrian town of our trip. The first evidence of its habitation dates back to the 7th century BC. During the Roman times, the town had its own fortifications, various temples, an amphitheatre, baths or its own bustling market. It was also an important stop on one of the main Roman roads leading from Rome to the Adriatic Sea (Via Flaminia). Together with Orvieto and Perugia, the town is the best preserved urban historical unit in Umbria! In addition, if you make this trip in June/July, you might experience the lively Festival Dei Due Mondi art festival!
On the last day of our trip, we'll see the breathtaking Marmore waterfall (maybe even go down it on a raft) and then we'll wipe away a tear and have to bid Italy a (temporary!) goodbye, as we'll end the day at the airport on our way back to our home country. :)
The waterfall is really huge, majestic. Set in the Umbrian greenery, full of paths and steps that you can walk around the falls and enjoy the views. The falling water clears nicely and creates pleasant "raindrops" that will refresh you in the heat! On sunny days, you will also see plenty of rainbows.
The waterfall was created by the Romans in the 3rd millennium BC. The water falls a full 165 metres, making it the highest artificial waterfall in the world! And it's really beautiful.
The opening hours of both the park and the waterfall (it does not flow continuously) vary depending on the season and specific days. It is definitely better to make sure in advance that the park will be open.
Check here: https://www.cascatadellemarmore.info/orari-e-aperture/
If you're tempted by a more adrenaline-packed tour of the falls, you can raft down them! https://www.raftingmarmore.com/en/
The rest of the day is reserved for whatever your adventurous soul (or even experience-weary body) desires! You can relax by the beautiful pool at the last hotel of our trip or, if you have any energy left and the desire to see some more of this lovely region, stop by the haunted Narni (yes, its name was the inspiration for a famous book) or take a stroll along the clear blue but very cold river Nera (for example in the picturesque village of Stifone, where you can also see the remains of the old Roman port, where the locals like to bathe, but at their own risk).
Today, we will be travelling back to Rome airport and then to our non-Italian homes. Return your car to one of the local rental agencies and check in. Now just process all the Umbrian (and Lazio) splendor you've picked up over the past few days! But don't be sad, unlike you, Italy isn't going anywhere - you can always come back. :) Wine, divine pasta and smiling, lively Italians will always be happy to welcome you back.
Flight again from Fiumicino or Ciampino Airport (depending on tickets)
Everyone knows Rome. And everyone knows Tuscany. But what lies between these two regions? Come find out, because the neglected regions of Lazio and Umbria are really worth it. You'll experience authentic Italy with fewer tourists, taste great Umbrian wine and a host of other purely local delicacies. You'll discover a wealth of medieval towns and architectural gems. As a bonus, visit the bizarre 16th century monster park or be amazed by the world's largest man-made waterfall (built by the ancient Romans!). You'll also enjoy a refreshing dip in the beautiful Lake Bolsena.
You've arrived at an airport located near one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It would be a shame not to take advantage of it! Pick up your car on the way, settle in, relax, leave the heavier bags in the rooms and, if you have time left, go for a walk around Rome!
TIP: try my favourite Roman speciality here - supplì (it's a roll of risotto rice mixed with tomato sauce into which a piece of mozzarella is embedded - the whole roll is then wrapped in a triple layer and fried so that it is golden and crispy on the outside, but the mozzarella inside is beautifully melted - just delicious!). You can find it in any pizzeria (whether a pizza stand or a regular restaurant).
Rome is not our main destination. Plus, we don't have as much time as it deserves. That's why I won't burden you with places you shouldn't miss. Just go where your heart takes you. There is something to see everywhere, almost every corner of this ancient city will captivate you with its beauty. It's also almost impossible to miss Rome's famous landmarks (such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City and the Castel Sant'Angelo).
If you get really hungry in Rome and want to eat something really traditional... I recommend this restaurant with all my heart! Especially their Roman pasta recipes - Carbonara, Gricia, Amatriciana or Cacio e pepe. The portions are HUGE and especially delicious. You may pay a little more than other restaurants, but it's really worth it for the quality, authenticity and quantity. If you have leftover pasta (I don't think so, it's absolutely irresistible), you can have it wrapped. And you're set for lunch the next day!
We are looking forward to a unique trip to the charming art town of Calcata Vecchia, where we will meet cats and inspiring atmosphere on every corner. We will also visit the fascinating 16th century "monster park", where we will be amazed by mysterious statues and magical corners. And finally, we'll delve into history in picturesque Viterbo, a town full of medieval streets and stunning architecture!
No, we didn't go to India for a while. Calcata Vecchia is one of the towns in the Lazio region that is subject to wind erosion and may one day collapse. The state even abandoned it in the 1970s and wanted to let it disappear. But the locals joined forces, repopulated the town and made sure it was saved. This subculture of people live peaceful lives here, know and support each other, and many of them are engaged in various handicraft activities, the fruits of which they will be happy to show you. It's a very nice little town that enjoys many beautiful sights and countless happy street cats. It's also hard to get a phone signal here, you really do stop in time! However, if you visit the town outside of the weekend, it's likely to be very sleepy and many of the shops will be closed. Still, this place is worth a visit.
Calcata is full of excellent restaurants to choose from. But if you're just a little hungry, you can go to the local bakery, where you can buy just a slice of delicious pizza, or you can order a panino to go. You point to the pastry you like and the lady behind the counter puts in what you order. Most of the time it's a selection of different local salami, cheese, hams, but also a variety of pickled vegetables. You can then eat your panino in the main square in front of the church, where it's lovely to sit in the sun and watch the simple but oh-so-lovely rhythm of this sleepy town.
The magical "monster" park in Bomarzo is a truly extraordinary experience. It was created during the Mannerist period of the 16th century. It was commissioned by the warlord and art lover Piero Francesco Orsini, who dedicated the park to his late wife Giulia Farnese.
You will see a number of stone sculptures of strange shapes, set against the natural backdrop of the local forest. The sculptures are very evocative, and you will find yourself in a truly fantastic landscape.
The park has decayed over the centuries, but in the mid-20th century Salvador Dali visited the park and made a short film about it. The monuments were then restored in the 1970s and are now popular with tourists (especially Italian ones).
We will end the day in medieval Viterbo. This town will leave you breathing its old glory. It was once the seat of many popes!
Let the charm of the picturesque corners take you away and just wander around. It is not for nothing that the town used to be called "the city of a hundred towers and a hundred fountains", and it is hard to miss the local landmarks.
Or try my suggested route.
Park outside the city walls. There are plenty of adjacent streets where you can park for free. Head into the city just through St. Peter's Gate.
In the alleys of the old town you really are transported to medieval Viterbo. The stone houses, stacked one on top of the other, have stood here virtually untouched since the 13th century. Here you will find again picturesque corners, interspersed with small shops with local artists.
A part of the town is called "San Pellegrino" - the pilgrims' quarter.
Continue to the Palace of the Popes. This palace, as its name says, served as the residence of 9 different popes for 24 years (in the 13th century). This made the city more important and only flourished. The building is a jewel of medieval architecture. Its interiors have been renovated, but if you are a history and museum lover, you will surely enjoy your visit! With your ticket, you'll get access and audio guides for both the Colle del Duomo museum and the city's cathedral.
The cathedral is located next to the Papal Palace. It was built on ancient foundations in the 12th-13th century in Romanesque style. Subsequently, it has been modified several times. Its exterior is not so flashy, on the contrary, the interior will absorb you. Take a peek! You will find many statues, frescoes and chapels or even the tomb of one of the popes.
The very simple church of St. New Year's Eve is a pleasant stop while wandering through this city. It is a very old building (perhaps from the 10th century) with frescoes from the 16th century. Notice that one of the figures in the frescoes follows you wherever you go (just like the Mona Lisa). Can you guess which one?
The square in front of the church is also very picturesque and invites you to sit in the evening with a glass of good Umbrian wine.
This square has been the seat of the city's civil power since the 13th century (as opposed to the papal palace as the centre of ecclesiastical power). It is surrounded by a number of palaces that belonged mainly to wealthy noble families. The Palazzo dei priori (where the city magistrate's office was located) is definitely worth a visit. But if you don't have the time or inclination to wander around the museums, don't miss the magical terrace of this palace. It is entered through a passage in the façade and is free to enter. You will have a truly picturesque view of the Valle Faul and the Church of the Holy Trinity.
If you want to take away a nice souvenir from Viterbo or even something to wear, Via Roma is the place to go. There are plenty of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's the main corridor of the city, full of life. Especially in the evening.
Viterbo is bursting with great places to eat, you'll have no trouble finding your favourite spot on your own. My only tip is this bistro, which is really special. You'll be wowed by the welcoming atmosphere, the ubiquitous books (which are for sale), the friendly staff, and the top-notch food and drinks. There's even a floor for the little ones - if the kids are part of your traveling pack, this place will definitely be appreciated by them and you.
Today we will visit the magical Civita di Bagnoregio and relax by the beautiful Lake Bolsena (with a possible swim!).
Have a true Italian breakfast - a cornetto with strong Italian coffee and sugar (yes, you can have a cappuccino in the morning without anyone beating you up for it, traditionally it shouldn't be drunk after 11am) - and up you go for day two! But if you didn't enjoy Viterbo properly the day before, there's still time to do some walking.
Our first stop will be the doomed town, like Calcata Vecchia, which we have already visited. The cause is extensive erosion and landslides in the valley below the town. Slowly but surely, they are "biting off" the town's edges. The region is, of course, trying to save the town. But the town also offers many breathtaking views. There is only a narrow footbridge leading into the town, so you can enjoy it almost as in the Middle Ages - without the presence of cars. In addition, the town has only 11 permanent inhabitants, also a nice curiosity! Due to its size it is almost impossible to get lost in Civita. However, try to wander around and soak up its unique atmosphere. Don't miss the Renaissance city gate, Porta Albana, or the ancient San Donato Cathedral.
Buy tickets to the city either on site (in front of the footbridge) or online here: https://shop.articketing.com/en/monuments/civita-di-bagnoregio/tickets?s=civita-di-bagnoregio
Bolsena is a small town located on the volcanic lake of the same name, where locals go to cool off and recreate. And with the same motivation you are here too, so don't miss this opportunity. The lake is very picturesque and clean and will surely come in handy on hot days.
The town offers many restaurants (often with a view of the lake) and also a few sights. So don't forget to take a walk before/after dinner!
After two glorious days at Lago di Bolsena, hopefully you'll have the energy to explore more of this beautiful region.
Today we will have the opportunity to admire, for example, the beautiful cathedral in Orvieto and, if you have time, the picturesque Todi! If you fancy another swim, you have the opportunity in the morning! Then we're off beyond Lazio, to Umbria (the region of shade - l'ombra - because of the abundance of greenery that shade offers).
Our first stop in the Umbria region will be the town of Orvieto. Orvieto is especially proud of its beautiful "striped" cathedral, which you won't see anywhere else. But it offers much more. Let's take a look at its main sights and the other stops you shouldn't miss.
The cable car will take you from the lower, newer part of town (where you parked) to the old, medieval part. From the cable car, you will have beautiful views of the countryside. It's a comfortable, pleasant and fairly inexpensive way to get to the historic city centre.
The ticket price includes a bus to take you from the cable car to the centre. However, you can also walk, it's not that far!
The cable car departs every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes on Sundays and public holidays) from 7:15 am (from 8:00 am on public holidays and Sundays) until 8:30 pm. Children under six ride for free.
Just after getting off the cable car will be our first stop (don't worry, the bus ticket to the centre is worth 90 minutes).
This well was built at the instigation of Pope Clement VII, who, after the sack of Rome in 1527, moved to Orvieto, which was the only town near Rome that offered him a truly safe haven. However, the city would not have its own source of water in the event of a siege, so it needed a well.
The well is 53 metres deep and almost 14 metres wide. It has two spiral staircases down which donkeys and mules carried water. The well is so deep that the locals likened the descent to the bottom of the well to a journey to hell! Definitely worth a visit.
Children under six can visit the well again for free.
This is the main corso of Orvieto, where small boutiques, artists with local ceramics and other handicrafts are concentrated. Naturally, you'll also find a number of bars and restaurants. An ideal place to buy authentic souvenirs. Also, don't miss the excellent local Falesco wine.
TIP: check out the Delizie di Orvieto shop, you won't regret it!
This square has really stopped in time. Surrounded only by ancient buildings, the local markets, which take place every Thursday and Saturday, can also add to its authenticity. You can also admire the local Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a beautiful late Romanesque/early Gothic building with very interesting window trimmings (chequerboard relief) that you will perhaps only see in Orvieto. Towards the evening, the square becomes one of the centres of the local nightlife and starts to come alive!
And now we move on to the main attraction of the city - the local breathtaking Cathedral of the Assumption. It's really unusual in appearance. It was not for nothing that Pope Leo VIII called it "the golden lily of Italian cathedrals". Its construction began in 1290 at the instigation of the then Pope Urban IV. It was intended to serve as a repository for the holy relic, the "Shroud of Bolsena" (the shroud was stained with the blood of the host during Mass). The plasterwork of the cathedral is inspired by the cathedral of Siena. Likewise, the interior is very ornate and rich. Certainly worth a visit!
Umbria is very rich in finds from the Etruscan era. This museum, where you will find a number of vases and other ancient objects, is a testament to that. There is also an Etruscan necropolis or the foundations of a sanctuary. If you are interested in this fascinating ancient civilization, you have come to the right place!
Along the way, you will have beautiful views of Lago di Corbara. If you are hot and would like to cool off, it is better to take a cold shower at the hotel in the evening (or at its pool). Local swimming in Lago di Corbara is not recommended, it may be dangerous due to the hydroelectric plant that uses the lake.
On the way to Perugia you will pass by this beautiful town. If you have some time to spare, definitely stop here. The town is surrounded by three very well-preserved walls from the Etruscan, Roman (even Hannibal is said to have not conquered the local walls!) or medieval times. The town also grew in importance and size at that time, with around 40,000 inhabitants at the end of the thirteenth century! After that, however, its fame declined.
Today it is a picturesque sleepy town with many well-preserved buildings. Have a cake and coffee in the main square overlooking the town's cathedral and you won't regret this stop.
Today is reserved for discovering the beauty of Perugia. The rest you can relax in the Italian sun by the beautiful pool of your accommodation.
Perugia is a lively student town full of history and beautiful Umbrian architecture. It's also famous for its chocolate! Having been built on elevated ground, it offers divine views of both the city and its surroundings. Let's dive into its heart and discover its beauty!
Parking:
This is not exactly easy in Perugia. If you want to park safely, it is better to pay for parking, for example in this car park. If you are willing to take a little risk and leave your car in the free parking lots, I would recommend this place: the Case Bruciate Minimetro. The parking lot is right next to the minimetro stop, which will get you downtown quickly and cheaply. However, Perugia is not that big, you can walk to the center from both parking lots (you might just have to walk uphill a bit).
You might find this site useful: https://www.parkopedia.com/ - it will show you all the available parking spaces with tariffs.
This absolutely fascinating underground fortress was built in the 14th century by Pope Paul III as a symbol of the Church's power. Dozens of Etruscan and Roman houses, gates, churches and small monasteries had to be demolished for its construction.
Today, the fortress with its intricate travertine corridors is open to the public free of charge. Often in its corridors you will find museums of modern art. Especially after dark, the experience of this fortress becomes truly atmospheric. Try one of the guided night tours!
Many call this square one of the most beautiful in Italy. And no wonder! Flanked by the magnificent Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the splendid Palace dei Priori, it has been the seat of civil power since Roman times. The square is also dominated by the beautifully ornate Fontana Maggiore, a fountain built in the 13th century to celebrate the introduction of water to the city by the aqueduct. The square is still a major gathering place today, hosting festivals, concerts and conferences. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to attend one of these events!
Perugia is full of breathtaking views. This is perhaps the most beautiful for me. It's a small square with a little church and trees that offer shelter on sultry days. Ahead of you is a piece of the city, but also the beautiful Umbrian landscape. I could sit through an entire Italian siesta here!
This is the famous aqueduct from the 13th century that fed water to the Maggiore fountain and thus to the whole city. It fell into disuse in the 19th century, but part of it was preserved and today it makes a pleasant path above the town, offering plenty of quirky views of local houses or gardens. Start your walk at the Brizi restaurant and head down the aqueduct. There's plenty to admire!
The Etruscan Arch (or the Arch of Augustus - the arch was restored by Emperor Augustus after his victory in the Perusinian War) is one of the 7 ancient gates in the walls of Perugia. This gate was built in the third century BC and was the main entrance to the city. It has been only slightly modified over the centuries - in the 17th century a fountain and a loggia were added to its tower - so you can admire an authentic pre-Crusader structure, including the famous building techniques of the Etruscan people - the gate, for example, was constructed without the use of mortar.
It is fascinating to be in the presence of such an old and so well-preserved monument. I wonder what it has witnessed over all these years!
If you go through the gate and continue up the street, you will find yourself back at the cathedral in the centre in a few minutes.
Were you hungry while wandering around Perugia? Would you like a really delicious authentic pizza? Go to Coffe and Cigarette. Their pizza is truly "heaven in your mouth". Soft dough with higher edges (the Neapolitan kind of pizza) and a perfectly balanced centre made with the best local ingredients. I was absolutely delighted with the local pizza (and the very innovative way of ordering and communicating with the staff). Try it, your palate will be grateful!
For excellent local wine and an excellent selection of local cured meats and cheeses, I would definitely send you to Daje Perugia! This restaurant can serve as a very cosy and charismatic retreat for sampling all sorts of delicacies served with Umbrian-style bread/pizza torta al testo, but you can easily have a full meal here (even vegetarians!). You'll dream (as I did) of their smoked scamorza (a type of Italian cheese) melted in a small baking dish with truffle sauce.
But make sure you reserve your seat, it tends to get crowded!
Today we will visit the magical Assisi, a city with a unique atmosphere and rich history. We will walk through the picturesque streets, admire the breathtaking architecture and visit the famous pilgrimage site - the birthplace of Saint Francis. Let yourself be carried away by the tranquillity of this spiritual centre and enjoy the unique view of the surrounding countryside.
If you are inclined to the Christian faith, Assisi will be not only a feast for your eyes, but also a spiritual experience. However, as in the other cities we have already visited, architecture, history and art lovers will also find it to their liking.Parking in this underground car park costs 1.50 euros per hour. It's a short walk to the centre.
You shouldn't miss the city's most famous landmark, the Basilica of St. Francis, which is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Italy and has been a World Heritage Site since 2000, as it is one of the oldest and most important buildings of Italian Gothic architecture.In the nave of the upper church you will find beautiful frescoes by Giotto depicting scenes from the saint's life (look closely, you will find an ancient temple depicted here, which we will later visit in the city centre). Here you will find the tomb of both St. Francis (the hidden tomb was only discovered in 1818) and St. Clare (who corresponded with our own Agnes of Bohemia in the 13th century).
Admission to the basilica is free.
This temple will probably surprise you with its appearance, because it does not fit into the medieval character of the city. But it is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in Italy, along with the Roman Pantheon. It was built here in 41 BC and was probably originally dedicated to the god Hercules.
Giotto himself was so fascinated by the building that he depicted it in his frescoes in the Basilica of St Francis, which we've just seen. The building is 15 metres high, 17 metres long and its entrance is flanked by 6 massive Corinthian columns. Absolutely beautiful!
Rodina Zubboli opened her small, modest shop with books and handicrafts made of paper as early as 1870. The shop takes you back to a time without the conveniences of modern technology. It smells of the love of paper. And the owners are very nice! Maybe you will find a suitable authentic souvenir here and support the small business of this lovely family.
We visit the last Umbrian town of our trip. The first evidence of its habitation dates back to the 7th century BC. During the Roman times, the town had its own fortifications, various temples, an amphitheatre, baths or its own bustling market. It was also an important stop on one of the main Roman roads leading from Rome to the Adriatic Sea (Via Flaminia). Together with Orvieto and Perugia, the town is the best preserved urban historical unit in Umbria! In addition, if you make this trip in June/July, you might experience the lively Festival Dei Due Mondi art festival!
On the last day of our trip, we'll see the breathtaking Marmore waterfall (maybe even go down it on a raft) and then we'll wipe away a tear and have to bid Italy a (temporary!) goodbye, as we'll end the day at the airport on our way back to our home country. :)
The waterfall is really huge, majestic. Set in the Umbrian greenery, full of paths and steps that you can walk around the falls and enjoy the views. The falling water clears nicely and creates pleasant "raindrops" that will refresh you in the heat! On sunny days, you will also see plenty of rainbows.
The waterfall was created by the Romans in the 3rd millennium BC. The water falls a full 165 metres, making it the highest artificial waterfall in the world! And it's really beautiful.
The opening hours of both the park and the waterfall (it does not flow continuously) vary depending on the season and specific days. It is definitely better to make sure in advance that the park will be open.
Check here: https://www.cascatadellemarmore.info/orari-e-aperture/
If you're tempted by a more adrenaline-packed tour of the falls, you can raft down them! https://www.raftingmarmore.com/en/
The rest of the day is reserved for whatever your adventurous soul (or even experience-weary body) desires! You can relax by the beautiful pool at the last hotel of our trip or, if you have any energy left and the desire to see some more of this lovely region, stop by the haunted Narni (yes, its name was the inspiration for a famous book) or take a stroll along the clear blue but very cold river Nera (for example in the picturesque village of Stifone, where you can also see the remains of the old Roman port, where the locals like to bathe, but at their own risk).
Today, we will be travelling back to Rome airport and then to our non-Italian homes. Return your car to one of the local rental agencies and check in. Now just process all the Umbrian (and Lazio) splendor you've picked up over the past few days! But don't be sad, unlike you, Italy isn't going anywhere - you can always come back. :) Wine, divine pasta and smiling, lively Italians will always be happy to welcome you back.
Flight again from Fiumicino or Ciampino Airport (depending on tickets)
itinerary by Daniela Vanickova
Everyone knows Rome. And everyone knows Tuscany. But what lies between these two regions? Come find out, because the neglected regions of Lazio and Umbria are really worth it. You'll experience authentic Italy with fewer tourists, taste great Umbrian wine and a host of other purely local delicacies. You'll discover a wealth of medieval towns and architectural gems. As a bonus, visit the bizarre 16th century monster park or be amazed by the world's largest man-made waterfall (built by the ancient Romans!). You'll also enjoy a refreshing dip in the beautiful Lake Bolsena.
You've arrived at an airport located near one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It would be a shame not to take advantage of it! Pick up your car on the way, settle in, relax, leave the heavier bags in the rooms and, if you have time left, go for a walk around Rome!
TIP: try my favourite Roman speciality here - supplì (it's a roll of risotto rice mixed with tomato sauce into which a piece of mozzarella is embedded - the whole roll is then wrapped in a triple layer and fried so that it is golden and crispy on the outside, but the mozzarella inside is beautifully melted - just delicious!). You can find it in any pizzeria (whether a pizza stand or a regular restaurant).
Rome is not our main destination. Plus, we don't have as much time as it deserves. That's why I won't burden you with places you shouldn't miss. Just go where your heart takes you. There is something to see everywhere, almost every corner of this ancient city will captivate you with its beauty. It's also almost impossible to miss Rome's famous landmarks (such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City and the Castel Sant'Angelo).
If you get really hungry in Rome and want to eat something really traditional... I recommend this restaurant with all my heart! Especially their Roman pasta recipes - Carbonara, Gricia, Amatriciana or Cacio e pepe. The portions are HUGE and especially delicious. You may pay a little more than other restaurants, but it's really worth it for the quality, authenticity and quantity. If you have leftover pasta (I don't think so, it's absolutely irresistible), you can have it wrapped. And you're set for lunch the next day!
We are looking forward to a unique trip to the charming art town of Calcata Vecchia, where we will meet cats and inspiring atmosphere on every corner. We will also visit the fascinating 16th century "monster park", where we will be amazed by mysterious statues and magical corners. And finally, we'll delve into history in picturesque Viterbo, a town full of medieval streets and stunning architecture!
No, we didn't go to India for a while. Calcata Vecchia is one of the towns in the Lazio region that is subject to wind erosion and may one day collapse. The state even abandoned it in the 1970s and wanted to let it disappear. But the locals joined forces, repopulated the town and made sure it was saved. This subculture of people live peaceful lives here, know and support each other, and many of them are engaged in various handicraft activities, the fruits of which they will be happy to show you. It's a very nice little town that enjoys many beautiful sights and countless happy street cats. It's also hard to get a phone signal here, you really do stop in time! However, if you visit the town outside of the weekend, it's likely to be very sleepy and many of the shops will be closed. Still, this place is worth a visit.
Calcata is full of excellent restaurants to choose from. But if you're just a little hungry, you can go to the local bakery, where you can buy just a slice of delicious pizza, or you can order a panino to go. You point to the pastry you like and the lady behind the counter puts in what you order. Most of the time it's a selection of different local salami, cheese, hams, but also a variety of pickled vegetables. You can then eat your panino in the main square in front of the church, where it's lovely to sit in the sun and watch the simple but oh-so-lovely rhythm of this sleepy town.
The magical "monster" park in Bomarzo is a truly extraordinary experience. It was created during the Mannerist period of the 16th century. It was commissioned by the warlord and art lover Piero Francesco Orsini, who dedicated the park to his late wife Giulia Farnese.
You will see a number of stone sculptures of strange shapes, set against the natural backdrop of the local forest. The sculptures are very evocative, and you will find yourself in a truly fantastic landscape.
The park has decayed over the centuries, but in the mid-20th century Salvador Dali visited the park and made a short film about it. The monuments were then restored in the 1970s and are now popular with tourists (especially Italian ones).
We will end the day in medieval Viterbo. This town will leave you breathing its old glory. It was once the seat of many popes!
Let the charm of the picturesque corners take you away and just wander around. It is not for nothing that the town used to be called "the city of a hundred towers and a hundred fountains", and it is hard to miss the local landmarks.
Or try my suggested route.
Park outside the city walls. There are plenty of adjacent streets where you can park for free. Head into the city just through St. Peter's Gate.
In the alleys of the old town you really are transported to medieval Viterbo. The stone houses, stacked one on top of the other, have stood here virtually untouched since the 13th century. Here you will find again picturesque corners, interspersed with small shops with local artists.
A part of the town is called "San Pellegrino" - the pilgrims' quarter.
Continue to the Palace of the Popes. This palace, as its name says, served as the residence of 9 different popes for 24 years (in the 13th century). This made the city more important and only flourished. The building is a jewel of medieval architecture. Its interiors have been renovated, but if you are a history and museum lover, you will surely enjoy your visit! With your ticket, you'll get access and audio guides for both the Colle del Duomo museum and the city's cathedral.
The cathedral is located next to the Papal Palace. It was built on ancient foundations in the 12th-13th century in Romanesque style. Subsequently, it has been modified several times. Its exterior is not so flashy, on the contrary, the interior will absorb you. Take a peek! You will find many statues, frescoes and chapels or even the tomb of one of the popes.
The very simple church of St. New Year's Eve is a pleasant stop while wandering through this city. It is a very old building (perhaps from the 10th century) with frescoes from the 16th century. Notice that one of the figures in the frescoes follows you wherever you go (just like the Mona Lisa). Can you guess which one?
The square in front of the church is also very picturesque and invites you to sit in the evening with a glass of good Umbrian wine.
This square has been the seat of the city's civil power since the 13th century (as opposed to the papal palace as the centre of ecclesiastical power). It is surrounded by a number of palaces that belonged mainly to wealthy noble families. The Palazzo dei priori (where the city magistrate's office was located) is definitely worth a visit. But if you don't have the time or inclination to wander around the museums, don't miss the magical terrace of this palace. It is entered through a passage in the façade and is free to enter. You will have a truly picturesque view of the Valle Faul and the Church of the Holy Trinity.
If you want to take away a nice souvenir from Viterbo or even something to wear, Via Roma is the place to go. There are plenty of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's the main corridor of the city, full of life. Especially in the evening.
Viterbo is bursting with great places to eat, you'll have no trouble finding your favourite spot on your own. My only tip is this bistro, which is really special. You'll be wowed by the welcoming atmosphere, the ubiquitous books (which are for sale), the friendly staff, and the top-notch food and drinks. There's even a floor for the little ones - if the kids are part of your traveling pack, this place will definitely be appreciated by them and you.
Today we will visit the magical Civita di Bagnoregio and relax by the beautiful Lake Bolsena (with a possible swim!).
Have a true Italian breakfast - a cornetto with strong Italian coffee and sugar (yes, you can have a cappuccino in the morning without anyone beating you up for it, traditionally it shouldn't be drunk after 11am) - and up you go for day two! But if you didn't enjoy Viterbo properly the day before, there's still time to do some walking.
Our first stop will be the doomed town, like Calcata Vecchia, which we have already visited. The cause is extensive erosion and landslides in the valley below the town. Slowly but surely, they are "biting off" the town's edges. The region is, of course, trying to save the town. But the town also offers many breathtaking views. There is only a narrow footbridge leading into the town, so you can enjoy it almost as in the Middle Ages - without the presence of cars. In addition, the town has only 11 permanent inhabitants, also a nice curiosity! Due to its size it is almost impossible to get lost in Civita. However, try to wander around and soak up its unique atmosphere. Don't miss the Renaissance city gate, Porta Albana, or the ancient San Donato Cathedral.
Buy tickets to the city either on site (in front of the footbridge) or online here: https://shop.articketing.com/en/monuments/civita-di-bagnoregio/tickets?s=civita-di-bagnoregio
Bolsena is a small town located on the volcanic lake of the same name, where locals go to cool off and recreate. And with the same motivation you are here too, so don't miss this opportunity. The lake is very picturesque and clean and will surely come in handy on hot days.
The town offers many restaurants (often with a view of the lake) and also a few sights. So don't forget to take a walk before/after dinner!
After two glorious days at Lago di Bolsena, hopefully you'll have the energy to explore more of this beautiful region.
Today we will have the opportunity to admire, for example, the beautiful cathedral in Orvieto and, if you have time, the picturesque Todi! If you fancy another swim, you have the opportunity in the morning! Then we're off beyond Lazio, to Umbria (the region of shade - l'ombra - because of the abundance of greenery that shade offers).
Our first stop in the Umbria region will be the town of Orvieto. Orvieto is especially proud of its beautiful "striped" cathedral, which you won't see anywhere else. But it offers much more. Let's take a look at its main sights and the other stops you shouldn't miss.
The cable car will take you from the lower, newer part of town (where you parked) to the old, medieval part. From the cable car, you will have beautiful views of the countryside. It's a comfortable, pleasant and fairly inexpensive way to get to the historic city centre.
The ticket price includes a bus to take you from the cable car to the centre. However, you can also walk, it's not that far!
The cable car departs every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes on Sundays and public holidays) from 7:15 am (from 8:00 am on public holidays and Sundays) until 8:30 pm. Children under six ride for free.
Just after getting off the cable car will be our first stop (don't worry, the bus ticket to the centre is worth 90 minutes).
This well was built at the instigation of Pope Clement VII, who, after the sack of Rome in 1527, moved to Orvieto, which was the only town near Rome that offered him a truly safe haven. However, the city would not have its own source of water in the event of a siege, so it needed a well.
The well is 53 metres deep and almost 14 metres wide. It has two spiral staircases down which donkeys and mules carried water. The well is so deep that the locals likened the descent to the bottom of the well to a journey to hell! Definitely worth a visit.
Children under six can visit the well again for free.
This is the main corso of Orvieto, where small boutiques, artists with local ceramics and other handicrafts are concentrated. Naturally, you'll also find a number of bars and restaurants. An ideal place to buy authentic souvenirs. Also, don't miss the excellent local Falesco wine.
TIP: check out the Delizie di Orvieto shop, you won't regret it!
This square has really stopped in time. Surrounded only by ancient buildings, the local markets, which take place every Thursday and Saturday, can also add to its authenticity. You can also admire the local Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a beautiful late Romanesque/early Gothic building with very interesting window trimmings (chequerboard relief) that you will perhaps only see in Orvieto. Towards the evening, the square becomes one of the centres of the local nightlife and starts to come alive!
And now we move on to the main attraction of the city - the local breathtaking Cathedral of the Assumption. It's really unusual in appearance. It was not for nothing that Pope Leo VIII called it "the golden lily of Italian cathedrals". Its construction began in 1290 at the instigation of the then Pope Urban IV. It was intended to serve as a repository for the holy relic, the "Shroud of Bolsena" (the shroud was stained with the blood of the host during Mass). The plasterwork of the cathedral is inspired by the cathedral of Siena. Likewise, the interior is very ornate and rich. Certainly worth a visit!
Umbria is very rich in finds from the Etruscan era. This museum, where you will find a number of vases and other ancient objects, is a testament to that. There is also an Etruscan necropolis or the foundations of a sanctuary. If you are interested in this fascinating ancient civilization, you have come to the right place!
Along the way, you will have beautiful views of Lago di Corbara. If you are hot and would like to cool off, it is better to take a cold shower at the hotel in the evening (or at its pool). Local swimming in Lago di Corbara is not recommended, it may be dangerous due to the hydroelectric plant that uses the lake.
On the way to Perugia you will pass by this beautiful town. If you have some time to spare, definitely stop here. The town is surrounded by three very well-preserved walls from the Etruscan, Roman (even Hannibal is said to have not conquered the local walls!) or medieval times. The town also grew in importance and size at that time, with around 40,000 inhabitants at the end of the thirteenth century! After that, however, its fame declined.
Today it is a picturesque sleepy town with many well-preserved buildings. Have a cake and coffee in the main square overlooking the town's cathedral and you won't regret this stop.
Today is reserved for discovering the beauty of Perugia. The rest you can relax in the Italian sun by the beautiful pool of your accommodation.
Perugia is a lively student town full of history and beautiful Umbrian architecture. It's also famous for its chocolate! Having been built on elevated ground, it offers divine views of both the city and its surroundings. Let's dive into its heart and discover its beauty!
Parking:
This is not exactly easy in Perugia. If you want to park safely, it is better to pay for parking, for example in this car park. If you are willing to take a little risk and leave your car in the free parking lots, I would recommend this place: the Case Bruciate Minimetro. The parking lot is right next to the minimetro stop, which will get you downtown quickly and cheaply. However, Perugia is not that big, you can walk to the center from both parking lots (you might just have to walk uphill a bit).
You might find this site useful: https://www.parkopedia.com/ - it will show you all the available parking spaces with tariffs.
This absolutely fascinating underground fortress was built in the 14th century by Pope Paul III as a symbol of the Church's power. Dozens of Etruscan and Roman houses, gates, churches and small monasteries had to be demolished for its construction.
Today, the fortress with its intricate travertine corridors is open to the public free of charge. Often in its corridors you will find museums of modern art. Especially after dark, the experience of this fortress becomes truly atmospheric. Try one of the guided night tours!
Many call this square one of the most beautiful in Italy. And no wonder! Flanked by the magnificent Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the splendid Palace dei Priori, it has been the seat of civil power since Roman times. The square is also dominated by the beautifully ornate Fontana Maggiore, a fountain built in the 13th century to celebrate the introduction of water to the city by the aqueduct. The square is still a major gathering place today, hosting festivals, concerts and conferences. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to attend one of these events!
Perugia is full of breathtaking views. This is perhaps the most beautiful for me. It's a small square with a little church and trees that offer shelter on sultry days. Ahead of you is a piece of the city, but also the beautiful Umbrian landscape. I could sit through an entire Italian siesta here!
This is the famous aqueduct from the 13th century that fed water to the Maggiore fountain and thus to the whole city. It fell into disuse in the 19th century, but part of it was preserved and today it makes a pleasant path above the town, offering plenty of quirky views of local houses or gardens. Start your walk at the Brizi restaurant and head down the aqueduct. There's plenty to admire!
The Etruscan Arch (or the Arch of Augustus - the arch was restored by Emperor Augustus after his victory in the Perusinian War) is one of the 7 ancient gates in the walls of Perugia. This gate was built in the third century BC and was the main entrance to the city. It has been only slightly modified over the centuries - in the 17th century a fountain and a loggia were added to its tower - so you can admire an authentic pre-Crusader structure, including the famous building techniques of the Etruscan people - the gate, for example, was constructed without the use of mortar.
It is fascinating to be in the presence of such an old and so well-preserved monument. I wonder what it has witnessed over all these years!
If you go through the gate and continue up the street, you will find yourself back at the cathedral in the centre in a few minutes.
Were you hungry while wandering around Perugia? Would you like a really delicious authentic pizza? Go to Coffe and Cigarette. Their pizza is truly "heaven in your mouth". Soft dough with higher edges (the Neapolitan kind of pizza) and a perfectly balanced centre made with the best local ingredients. I was absolutely delighted with the local pizza (and the very innovative way of ordering and communicating with the staff). Try it, your palate will be grateful!
For excellent local wine and an excellent selection of local cured meats and cheeses, I would definitely send you to Daje Perugia! This restaurant can serve as a very cosy and charismatic retreat for sampling all sorts of delicacies served with Umbrian-style bread/pizza torta al testo, but you can easily have a full meal here (even vegetarians!). You'll dream (as I did) of their smoked scamorza (a type of Italian cheese) melted in a small baking dish with truffle sauce.
But make sure you reserve your seat, it tends to get crowded!
Today we will visit the magical Assisi, a city with a unique atmosphere and rich history. We will walk through the picturesque streets, admire the breathtaking architecture and visit the famous pilgrimage site - the birthplace of Saint Francis. Let yourself be carried away by the tranquillity of this spiritual centre and enjoy the unique view of the surrounding countryside.
If you are inclined to the Christian faith, Assisi will be not only a feast for your eyes, but also a spiritual experience. However, as in the other cities we have already visited, architecture, history and art lovers will also find it to their liking.Parking in this underground car park costs 1.50 euros per hour. It's a short walk to the centre.
You shouldn't miss the city's most famous landmark, the Basilica of St. Francis, which is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Italy and has been a World Heritage Site since 2000, as it is one of the oldest and most important buildings of Italian Gothic architecture.In the nave of the upper church you will find beautiful frescoes by Giotto depicting scenes from the saint's life (look closely, you will find an ancient temple depicted here, which we will later visit in the city centre). Here you will find the tomb of both St. Francis (the hidden tomb was only discovered in 1818) and St. Clare (who corresponded with our own Agnes of Bohemia in the 13th century).
Admission to the basilica is free.
This temple will probably surprise you with its appearance, because it does not fit into the medieval character of the city. But it is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in Italy, along with the Roman Pantheon. It was built here in 41 BC and was probably originally dedicated to the god Hercules.
Giotto himself was so fascinated by the building that he depicted it in his frescoes in the Basilica of St Francis, which we've just seen. The building is 15 metres high, 17 metres long and its entrance is flanked by 6 massive Corinthian columns. Absolutely beautiful!
Rodina Zubboli opened her small, modest shop with books and handicrafts made of paper as early as 1870. The shop takes you back to a time without the conveniences of modern technology. It smells of the love of paper. And the owners are very nice! Maybe you will find a suitable authentic souvenir here and support the small business of this lovely family.
We visit the last Umbrian town of our trip. The first evidence of its habitation dates back to the 7th century BC. During the Roman times, the town had its own fortifications, various temples, an amphitheatre, baths or its own bustling market. It was also an important stop on one of the main Roman roads leading from Rome to the Adriatic Sea (Via Flaminia). Together with Orvieto and Perugia, the town is the best preserved urban historical unit in Umbria! In addition, if you make this trip in June/July, you might experience the lively Festival Dei Due Mondi art festival!
On the last day of our trip, we'll see the breathtaking Marmore waterfall (maybe even go down it on a raft) and then we'll wipe away a tear and have to bid Italy a (temporary!) goodbye, as we'll end the day at the airport on our way back to our home country. :)
The waterfall is really huge, majestic. Set in the Umbrian greenery, full of paths and steps that you can walk around the falls and enjoy the views. The falling water clears nicely and creates pleasant "raindrops" that will refresh you in the heat! On sunny days, you will also see plenty of rainbows.
The waterfall was created by the Romans in the 3rd millennium BC. The water falls a full 165 metres, making it the highest artificial waterfall in the world! And it's really beautiful.
The opening hours of both the park and the waterfall (it does not flow continuously) vary depending on the season and specific days. It is definitely better to make sure in advance that the park will be open.
Check here: https://www.cascatadellemarmore.info/orari-e-aperture/
If you're tempted by a more adrenaline-packed tour of the falls, you can raft down them! https://www.raftingmarmore.com/en/
The rest of the day is reserved for whatever your adventurous soul (or even experience-weary body) desires! You can relax by the beautiful pool at the last hotel of our trip or, if you have any energy left and the desire to see some more of this lovely region, stop by the haunted Narni (yes, its name was the inspiration for a famous book) or take a stroll along the clear blue but very cold river Nera (for example in the picturesque village of Stifone, where you can also see the remains of the old Roman port, where the locals like to bathe, but at their own risk).
Today, we will be travelling back to Rome airport and then to our non-Italian homes. Return your car to one of the local rental agencies and check in. Now just process all the Umbrian (and Lazio) splendor you've picked up over the past few days! But don't be sad, unlike you, Italy isn't going anywhere - you can always come back. :) Wine, divine pasta and smiling, lively Italians will always be happy to welcome you back.
Flight again from Fiumicino or Ciampino Airport (depending on tickets)
Everyone knows Rome. And everyone knows Tuscany. But what lies between these two regions? Come find out, because the neglected regions of Lazio and Umbria are really worth it. You'll experience authentic Italy with fewer tourists, taste great Umbrian wine and a host of other purely local delicacies. You'll discover a wealth of medieval towns and architectural gems. As a bonus, visit the bizarre 16th century monster park or be amazed by the world's largest man-made waterfall (built by the ancient Romans!). You'll also enjoy a refreshing dip in the beautiful Lake Bolsena.
You've arrived at an airport located near one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It would be a shame not to take advantage of it! Pick up your car on the way, settle in, relax, leave the heavier bags in the rooms and, if you have time left, go for a walk around Rome!
TIP: try my favourite Roman speciality here - supplì (it's a roll of risotto rice mixed with tomato sauce into which a piece of mozzarella is embedded - the whole roll is then wrapped in a triple layer and fried so that it is golden and crispy on the outside, but the mozzarella inside is beautifully melted - just delicious!). You can find it in any pizzeria (whether a pizza stand or a regular restaurant).
Rome is not our main destination. Plus, we don't have as much time as it deserves. That's why I won't burden you with places you shouldn't miss. Just go where your heart takes you. There is something to see everywhere, almost every corner of this ancient city will captivate you with its beauty. It's also almost impossible to miss Rome's famous landmarks (such as the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City and the Castel Sant'Angelo).
If you get really hungry in Rome and want to eat something really traditional... I recommend this restaurant with all my heart! Especially their Roman pasta recipes - Carbonara, Gricia, Amatriciana or Cacio e pepe. The portions are HUGE and especially delicious. You may pay a little more than other restaurants, but it's really worth it for the quality, authenticity and quantity. If you have leftover pasta (I don't think so, it's absolutely irresistible), you can have it wrapped. And you're set for lunch the next day!
We are looking forward to a unique trip to the charming art town of Calcata Vecchia, where we will meet cats and inspiring atmosphere on every corner. We will also visit the fascinating 16th century "monster park", where we will be amazed by mysterious statues and magical corners. And finally, we'll delve into history in picturesque Viterbo, a town full of medieval streets and stunning architecture!
No, we didn't go to India for a while. Calcata Vecchia is one of the towns in the Lazio region that is subject to wind erosion and may one day collapse. The state even abandoned it in the 1970s and wanted to let it disappear. But the locals joined forces, repopulated the town and made sure it was saved. This subculture of people live peaceful lives here, know and support each other, and many of them are engaged in various handicraft activities, the fruits of which they will be happy to show you. It's a very nice little town that enjoys many beautiful sights and countless happy street cats. It's also hard to get a phone signal here, you really do stop in time! However, if you visit the town outside of the weekend, it's likely to be very sleepy and many of the shops will be closed. Still, this place is worth a visit.
Calcata is full of excellent restaurants to choose from. But if you're just a little hungry, you can go to the local bakery, where you can buy just a slice of delicious pizza, or you can order a panino to go. You point to the pastry you like and the lady behind the counter puts in what you order. Most of the time it's a selection of different local salami, cheese, hams, but also a variety of pickled vegetables. You can then eat your panino in the main square in front of the church, where it's lovely to sit in the sun and watch the simple but oh-so-lovely rhythm of this sleepy town.
The magical "monster" park in Bomarzo is a truly extraordinary experience. It was created during the Mannerist period of the 16th century. It was commissioned by the warlord and art lover Piero Francesco Orsini, who dedicated the park to his late wife Giulia Farnese.
You will see a number of stone sculptures of strange shapes, set against the natural backdrop of the local forest. The sculptures are very evocative, and you will find yourself in a truly fantastic landscape.
The park has decayed over the centuries, but in the mid-20th century Salvador Dali visited the park and made a short film about it. The monuments were then restored in the 1970s and are now popular with tourists (especially Italian ones).
We will end the day in medieval Viterbo. This town will leave you breathing its old glory. It was once the seat of many popes!
Let the charm of the picturesque corners take you away and just wander around. It is not for nothing that the town used to be called "the city of a hundred towers and a hundred fountains", and it is hard to miss the local landmarks.
Or try my suggested route.
Park outside the city walls. There are plenty of adjacent streets where you can park for free. Head into the city just through St. Peter's Gate.
In the alleys of the old town you really are transported to medieval Viterbo. The stone houses, stacked one on top of the other, have stood here virtually untouched since the 13th century. Here you will find again picturesque corners, interspersed with small shops with local artists.
A part of the town is called "San Pellegrino" - the pilgrims' quarter.
Continue to the Palace of the Popes. This palace, as its name says, served as the residence of 9 different popes for 24 years (in the 13th century). This made the city more important and only flourished. The building is a jewel of medieval architecture. Its interiors have been renovated, but if you are a history and museum lover, you will surely enjoy your visit! With your ticket, you'll get access and audio guides for both the Colle del Duomo museum and the city's cathedral.
The cathedral is located next to the Papal Palace. It was built on ancient foundations in the 12th-13th century in Romanesque style. Subsequently, it has been modified several times. Its exterior is not so flashy, on the contrary, the interior will absorb you. Take a peek! You will find many statues, frescoes and chapels or even the tomb of one of the popes.
The very simple church of St. New Year's Eve is a pleasant stop while wandering through this city. It is a very old building (perhaps from the 10th century) with frescoes from the 16th century. Notice that one of the figures in the frescoes follows you wherever you go (just like the Mona Lisa). Can you guess which one?
The square in front of the church is also very picturesque and invites you to sit in the evening with a glass of good Umbrian wine.
This square has been the seat of the city's civil power since the 13th century (as opposed to the papal palace as the centre of ecclesiastical power). It is surrounded by a number of palaces that belonged mainly to wealthy noble families. The Palazzo dei priori (where the city magistrate's office was located) is definitely worth a visit. But if you don't have the time or inclination to wander around the museums, don't miss the magical terrace of this palace. It is entered through a passage in the façade and is free to enter. You will have a truly picturesque view of the Valle Faul and the Church of the Holy Trinity.
If you want to take away a nice souvenir from Viterbo or even something to wear, Via Roma is the place to go. There are plenty of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's the main corridor of the city, full of life. Especially in the evening.
Viterbo is bursting with great places to eat, you'll have no trouble finding your favourite spot on your own. My only tip is this bistro, which is really special. You'll be wowed by the welcoming atmosphere, the ubiquitous books (which are for sale), the friendly staff, and the top-notch food and drinks. There's even a floor for the little ones - if the kids are part of your traveling pack, this place will definitely be appreciated by them and you.
Today we will visit the magical Civita di Bagnoregio and relax by the beautiful Lake Bolsena (with a possible swim!).
Have a true Italian breakfast - a cornetto with strong Italian coffee and sugar (yes, you can have a cappuccino in the morning without anyone beating you up for it, traditionally it shouldn't be drunk after 11am) - and up you go for day two! But if you didn't enjoy Viterbo properly the day before, there's still time to do some walking.
Our first stop will be the doomed town, like Calcata Vecchia, which we have already visited. The cause is extensive erosion and landslides in the valley below the town. Slowly but surely, they are "biting off" the town's edges. The region is, of course, trying to save the town. But the town also offers many breathtaking views. There is only a narrow footbridge leading into the town, so you can enjoy it almost as in the Middle Ages - without the presence of cars. In addition, the town has only 11 permanent inhabitants, also a nice curiosity! Due to its size it is almost impossible to get lost in Civita. However, try to wander around and soak up its unique atmosphere. Don't miss the Renaissance city gate, Porta Albana, or the ancient San Donato Cathedral.
Buy tickets to the city either on site (in front of the footbridge) or online here: https://shop.articketing.com/en/monuments/civita-di-bagnoregio/tickets?s=civita-di-bagnoregio
Bolsena is a small town located on the volcanic lake of the same name, where locals go to cool off and recreate. And with the same motivation you are here too, so don't miss this opportunity. The lake is very picturesque and clean and will surely come in handy on hot days.
The town offers many restaurants (often with a view of the lake) and also a few sights. So don't forget to take a walk before/after dinner!
After two glorious days at Lago di Bolsena, hopefully you'll have the energy to explore more of this beautiful region.
Today we will have the opportunity to admire, for example, the beautiful cathedral in Orvieto and, if you have time, the picturesque Todi! If you fancy another swim, you have the opportunity in the morning! Then we're off beyond Lazio, to Umbria (the region of shade - l'ombra - because of the abundance of greenery that shade offers).
Our first stop in the Umbria region will be the town of Orvieto. Orvieto is especially proud of its beautiful "striped" cathedral, which you won't see anywhere else. But it offers much more. Let's take a look at its main sights and the other stops you shouldn't miss.
The cable car will take you from the lower, newer part of town (where you parked) to the old, medieval part. From the cable car, you will have beautiful views of the countryside. It's a comfortable, pleasant and fairly inexpensive way to get to the historic city centre.
The ticket price includes a bus to take you from the cable car to the centre. However, you can also walk, it's not that far!
The cable car departs every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes on Sundays and public holidays) from 7:15 am (from 8:00 am on public holidays and Sundays) until 8:30 pm. Children under six ride for free.
Just after getting off the cable car will be our first stop (don't worry, the bus ticket to the centre is worth 90 minutes).
This well was built at the instigation of Pope Clement VII, who, after the sack of Rome in 1527, moved to Orvieto, which was the only town near Rome that offered him a truly safe haven. However, the city would not have its own source of water in the event of a siege, so it needed a well.
The well is 53 metres deep and almost 14 metres wide. It has two spiral staircases down which donkeys and mules carried water. The well is so deep that the locals likened the descent to the bottom of the well to a journey to hell! Definitely worth a visit.
Children under six can visit the well again for free.
This is the main corso of Orvieto, where small boutiques, artists with local ceramics and other handicrafts are concentrated. Naturally, you'll also find a number of bars and restaurants. An ideal place to buy authentic souvenirs. Also, don't miss the excellent local Falesco wine.
TIP: check out the Delizie di Orvieto shop, you won't regret it!
This square has really stopped in time. Surrounded only by ancient buildings, the local markets, which take place every Thursday and Saturday, can also add to its authenticity. You can also admire the local Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, a beautiful late Romanesque/early Gothic building with very interesting window trimmings (chequerboard relief) that you will perhaps only see in Orvieto. Towards the evening, the square becomes one of the centres of the local nightlife and starts to come alive!
And now we move on to the main attraction of the city - the local breathtaking Cathedral of the Assumption. It's really unusual in appearance. It was not for nothing that Pope Leo VIII called it "the golden lily of Italian cathedrals". Its construction began in 1290 at the instigation of the then Pope Urban IV. It was intended to serve as a repository for the holy relic, the "Shroud of Bolsena" (the shroud was stained with the blood of the host during Mass). The plasterwork of the cathedral is inspired by the cathedral of Siena. Likewise, the interior is very ornate and rich. Certainly worth a visit!
Umbria is very rich in finds from the Etruscan era. This museum, where you will find a number of vases and other ancient objects, is a testament to that. There is also an Etruscan necropolis or the foundations of a sanctuary. If you are interested in this fascinating ancient civilization, you have come to the right place!
Along the way, you will have beautiful views of Lago di Corbara. If you are hot and would like to cool off, it is better to take a cold shower at the hotel in the evening (or at its pool). Local swimming in Lago di Corbara is not recommended, it may be dangerous due to the hydroelectric plant that uses the lake.
On the way to Perugia you will pass by this beautiful town. If you have some time to spare, definitely stop here. The town is surrounded by three very well-preserved walls from the Etruscan, Roman (even Hannibal is said to have not conquered the local walls!) or medieval times. The town also grew in importance and size at that time, with around 40,000 inhabitants at the end of the thirteenth century! After that, however, its fame declined.
Today it is a picturesque sleepy town with many well-preserved buildings. Have a cake and coffee in the main square overlooking the town's cathedral and you won't regret this stop.
Today is reserved for discovering the beauty of Perugia. The rest you can relax in the Italian sun by the beautiful pool of your accommodation.
Perugia is a lively student town full of history and beautiful Umbrian architecture. It's also famous for its chocolate! Having been built on elevated ground, it offers divine views of both the city and its surroundings. Let's dive into its heart and discover its beauty!
Parking:
This is not exactly easy in Perugia. If you want to park safely, it is better to pay for parking, for example in this car park. If you are willing to take a little risk and leave your car in the free parking lots, I would recommend this place: the Case Bruciate Minimetro. The parking lot is right next to the minimetro stop, which will get you downtown quickly and cheaply. However, Perugia is not that big, you can walk to the center from both parking lots (you might just have to walk uphill a bit).
You might find this site useful: https://www.parkopedia.com/ - it will show you all the available parking spaces with tariffs.
This absolutely fascinating underground fortress was built in the 14th century by Pope Paul III as a symbol of the Church's power. Dozens of Etruscan and Roman houses, gates, churches and small monasteries had to be demolished for its construction.
Today, the fortress with its intricate travertine corridors is open to the public free of charge. Often in its corridors you will find museums of modern art. Especially after dark, the experience of this fortress becomes truly atmospheric. Try one of the guided night tours!
Many call this square one of the most beautiful in Italy. And no wonder! Flanked by the magnificent Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the splendid Palace dei Priori, it has been the seat of civil power since Roman times. The square is also dominated by the beautifully ornate Fontana Maggiore, a fountain built in the 13th century to celebrate the introduction of water to the city by the aqueduct. The square is still a major gathering place today, hosting festivals, concerts and conferences. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to attend one of these events!
Perugia is full of breathtaking views. This is perhaps the most beautiful for me. It's a small square with a little church and trees that offer shelter on sultry days. Ahead of you is a piece of the city, but also the beautiful Umbrian landscape. I could sit through an entire Italian siesta here!
This is the famous aqueduct from the 13th century that fed water to the Maggiore fountain and thus to the whole city. It fell into disuse in the 19th century, but part of it was preserved and today it makes a pleasant path above the town, offering plenty of quirky views of local houses or gardens. Start your walk at the Brizi restaurant and head down the aqueduct. There's plenty to admire!
The Etruscan Arch (or the Arch of Augustus - the arch was restored by Emperor Augustus after his victory in the Perusinian War) is one of the 7 ancient gates in the walls of Perugia. This gate was built in the third century BC and was the main entrance to the city. It has been only slightly modified over the centuries - in the 17th century a fountain and a loggia were added to its tower - so you can admire an authentic pre-Crusader structure, including the famous building techniques of the Etruscan people - the gate, for example, was constructed without the use of mortar.
It is fascinating to be in the presence of such an old and so well-preserved monument. I wonder what it has witnessed over all these years!
If you go through the gate and continue up the street, you will find yourself back at the cathedral in the centre in a few minutes.
Were you hungry while wandering around Perugia? Would you like a really delicious authentic pizza? Go to Coffe and Cigarette. Their pizza is truly "heaven in your mouth". Soft dough with higher edges (the Neapolitan kind of pizza) and a perfectly balanced centre made with the best local ingredients. I was absolutely delighted with the local pizza (and the very innovative way of ordering and communicating with the staff). Try it, your palate will be grateful!
For excellent local wine and an excellent selection of local cured meats and cheeses, I would definitely send you to Daje Perugia! This restaurant can serve as a very cosy and charismatic retreat for sampling all sorts of delicacies served with Umbrian-style bread/pizza torta al testo, but you can easily have a full meal here (even vegetarians!). You'll dream (as I did) of their smoked scamorza (a type of Italian cheese) melted in a small baking dish with truffle sauce.
But make sure you reserve your seat, it tends to get crowded!
Today we will visit the magical Assisi, a city with a unique atmosphere and rich history. We will walk through the picturesque streets, admire the breathtaking architecture and visit the famous pilgrimage site - the birthplace of Saint Francis. Let yourself be carried away by the tranquillity of this spiritual centre and enjoy the unique view of the surrounding countryside.
If you are inclined to the Christian faith, Assisi will be not only a feast for your eyes, but also a spiritual experience. However, as in the other cities we have already visited, architecture, history and art lovers will also find it to their liking.Parking in this underground car park costs 1.50 euros per hour. It's a short walk to the centre.
You shouldn't miss the city's most famous landmark, the Basilica of St. Francis, which is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Italy and has been a World Heritage Site since 2000, as it is one of the oldest and most important buildings of Italian Gothic architecture.In the nave of the upper church you will find beautiful frescoes by Giotto depicting scenes from the saint's life (look closely, you will find an ancient temple depicted here, which we will later visit in the city centre). Here you will find the tomb of both St. Francis (the hidden tomb was only discovered in 1818) and St. Clare (who corresponded with our own Agnes of Bohemia in the 13th century).
Admission to the basilica is free.
This temple will probably surprise you with its appearance, because it does not fit into the medieval character of the city. But it is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in Italy, along with the Roman Pantheon. It was built here in 41 BC and was probably originally dedicated to the god Hercules.
Giotto himself was so fascinated by the building that he depicted it in his frescoes in the Basilica of St Francis, which we've just seen. The building is 15 metres high, 17 metres long and its entrance is flanked by 6 massive Corinthian columns. Absolutely beautiful!
Rodina Zubboli opened her small, modest shop with books and handicrafts made of paper as early as 1870. The shop takes you back to a time without the conveniences of modern technology. It smells of the love of paper. And the owners are very nice! Maybe you will find a suitable authentic souvenir here and support the small business of this lovely family.
We visit the last Umbrian town of our trip. The first evidence of its habitation dates back to the 7th century BC. During the Roman times, the town had its own fortifications, various temples, an amphitheatre, baths or its own bustling market. It was also an important stop on one of the main Roman roads leading from Rome to the Adriatic Sea (Via Flaminia). Together with Orvieto and Perugia, the town is the best preserved urban historical unit in Umbria! In addition, if you make this trip in June/July, you might experience the lively Festival Dei Due Mondi art festival!
On the last day of our trip, we'll see the breathtaking Marmore waterfall (maybe even go down it on a raft) and then we'll wipe away a tear and have to bid Italy a (temporary!) goodbye, as we'll end the day at the airport on our way back to our home country. :)
The waterfall is really huge, majestic. Set in the Umbrian greenery, full of paths and steps that you can walk around the falls and enjoy the views. The falling water clears nicely and creates pleasant "raindrops" that will refresh you in the heat! On sunny days, you will also see plenty of rainbows.
The waterfall was created by the Romans in the 3rd millennium BC. The water falls a full 165 metres, making it the highest artificial waterfall in the world! And it's really beautiful.
The opening hours of both the park and the waterfall (it does not flow continuously) vary depending on the season and specific days. It is definitely better to make sure in advance that the park will be open.
Check here: https://www.cascatadellemarmore.info/orari-e-aperture/
If you're tempted by a more adrenaline-packed tour of the falls, you can raft down them! https://www.raftingmarmore.com/en/
The rest of the day is reserved for whatever your adventurous soul (or even experience-weary body) desires! You can relax by the beautiful pool at the last hotel of our trip or, if you have any energy left and the desire to see some more of this lovely region, stop by the haunted Narni (yes, its name was the inspiration for a famous book) or take a stroll along the clear blue but very cold river Nera (for example in the picturesque village of Stifone, where you can also see the remains of the old Roman port, where the locals like to bathe, but at their own risk).
Today, we will be travelling back to Rome airport and then to our non-Italian homes. Return your car to one of the local rental agencies and check in. Now just process all the Umbrian (and Lazio) splendor you've picked up over the past few days! But don't be sad, unlike you, Italy isn't going anywhere - you can always come back. :) Wine, divine pasta and smiling, lively Italians will always be happy to welcome you back.
Flight again from Fiumicino or Ciampino Airport (depending on tickets)
