A little bit of Asia, a little bit of Europe, just a mixture of spices that will get you and bring a breath of exoticism back into your life in these covid times... Baklava, Salep, beautiful beaches with the sea that you can get into in winter and look out at the snow-capped mountains. Istanbul, the Orient in the palm of your hand. Kemer, Side, Antalya - the Riviera as it should be. And Pamukkale, where you're the only person on a white travertine slope. Turkey, my new love.
Why Turkey? I've been to Turkey once, about five years ago. You'd be surprised - on a sightseeing tour with a travel agency! I bought Turkey for 7 nights for an unbelievable price, which included a return ticket from Prague, the services of a guide for the whole week, and accommodation in four-star hotels with breakfast. The price also included a bus that drove us all over the Turkish interior. And the price? 3900 CZK per person per day. This event was for seniors 50+.. As I found out later - the Turkish government subsidizes stays for this group of people. The reason is clear, the tour guides of the travel agencies go around with them to all the local vendors and producers and try to sell them as many local goods as possible. So our expedition also visited a pottery workshop, a carpet factory, a perfume factory, a leather goods factory... Anyway, no one forced the younger ones (and there were five of us from the whole trip) to buy - it was clear that we were only taking this as an excursion, not as a shopping opportunity. That made us enjoy this trip all the more. There were two possible tours at the time. One was going to Cappadocia and the other to Pamukkale. I chose to go to Cappadocia, which is undoubtedly the main jewel of Turkey. But I knew even then that I would not be the last person to visit this country. I had to see Pamukkale too. And now the time is right! COVID SITUATION - OPERATIONS IN TURKEY A PCR negative test no older than 72 hours is required before traveling to Turkey. This is to be shown at boarding in Vienna and without it you will not be allowed on board. You do not need it anywhere else in Turkey (either on arrival or on domestic flights). Locals must have the so-called HES code, which can only be obtained via a Turkish SIM. I wasn't planning on getting either a SIM or data, hence the HES. The HES code is only necessary from a tourist's perspective when moving by public transport (without the code you don't get on any means of transport that has a turnstile leading to it - tram, train, metro). However, if you plan to use domestic flights, car rental and taxi, even the bus from Istanbul airport to the city centre, you really don't need the HES code. Not even for accommodation, as mentioned in many places. In Turkey it is compulsory to wear a veil everywhere, under a fine of 3000 TRY (apart from Zanzibar where in the world not, right?). So 80% of people wear one, but the number drops rapidly wherever you are with someone further out of public areas. Hotels, beaches, parks... Here the veil is immediately shed, both by foreigners and locals. As soon as you take a few steps off a busy road and into a park, there are easily a hundred people sitting on a grassy area without veils, just like the good old days at a fancy summer festival. Educative stickers of premises (hotels, restaurants, airports, public transport...) - in the maximum level. Covid pictograms are not missing in any shop window, on any entrance door, on floors, on tables... The 11 commandments here have replaced the 14 covid commandments - you will find this info sign at every turn. Surface disinfection here is as automatic as cashing in a customer after a purchase. The disposable packaging in hotel restaurants is reaching absurd levels. Every cutlery in a paper bag, everything disposable. But what I was very pleasantly surprised by - minimum plastic and plastic, everything in paper packaging. The shops are banned from selling alcohol on Saturdays and Sundays!! I don't know if this is Covid related or normal here, either way I consider it important information. If you don't solve it with an all inclusive hotel, don't buy alcohol in time for the weekend. The locals have a curfew all weekend, that is Sat and Sun. However, this ban does not apply to tourists. In real life, for example, police checks are done on the roads to stop every car. Tourists have to prove not only their identity but also the reason for their trip. Once they stop you and you show your passport, they immediately wish you a good day and let you drive on. The monuments are more or less open in Turkey, but there are usually reduced opening hours. Pamukkale, for example, had opening hours of 10am - 8pm according to the website, in reality they closed at 5pm. The overall mood across Turkey is totally relaxed. On a boat in Istanbul, for example, you indicate that you don't want to clean up the empty tea cup in front of you and the attendant immediately smiles and lets you contemplate the empty cup further. No cover.
BRNO - VÍDEŇ - ISTANBUL ANTALYA
The journey begins by boarding the train Brno - Vienna. I have to say that sneaking from lovcost to business class was a masterpiece right from the start! And still approved by the cabin crew. It is because of this that this train ride will always be an unforgettable experience for me, one that comes to mind every time I hear the word train. It was simply a spectacular start to a spectacular trip!
At the train station in Vienna, I jump on the train to the airport, where I walk into the local airport Spar in less than 20 minutes.
I find my favourite departure/arrival Prosecco at the even more popular (unchanged) price of €2.9 on my shelf. For I know full well that the lounge is under Covid, or restrictions associated with it, and this is the last chance to enjoy the airport bubbly.
The lounge, of course, passed and "did not disappoint". Or rather, it failed exactly as I predicted. A paper bag with a banana, half a piece of toast with cottage cheese and a cabbage leaf, a fruko and a biscuit - that's the current Vienna Airport lounge.
The negative PCR test, which wasn't needed when I bought my tickets to Turkey but was on the day of departure, I only show once the whole time, and that to the really superficial gaze of the lady at the counter who prints my ticket against my passport. That's all. The worst spent 1 500 CZK of this trip.
The flight to Istanbul passed quietly and quite quickly. I had no idea how much time to leave for the connection to the domestic flight to Antalya. Only now I can say that an hour is plenty. I left 3 hours to allow for a reserve, so I cut my time short in the Istanbul lounge. There's a cloud of food, all honestly disposably packaged, but not a drop of alcohol. I'm beginning to think Covid is already in Turkey...
Istanbul Airport: has been open since April 2019 and the entire operation of the original airport has been moved here. The airport aspires to be the largest airport in the world and is located about 50 km from the city centre.
Istanbul airport atmosphere? It's as if Covid didn't exist. A million people, a buzz, a murmur. Check-in was a rush, I didn't take my cosmetics or laptop out of my bag while scanning - no one even demanded it. There is a wifi point at the Istanbul airport for international departures, where you get a pin code after presenting your passport and ticket, which gives you 30 minutes of wifi for free. If you are waiting at the gate, find a cafe with a wifi logo and if you buy at least a coffee there, you will get the wifi password from the staff as well. The lounge offers a decent range of food, lots of local goodies, coffee, tea, soft drinks, fruit salads, vegetable salads, pasta salads, desserts ... but zero alcohol. So it's a bummer.
Currently, the fastest service to downtown is provided by HavaIst buses. From the airport, there are 5 lines operating to the whole of Istanbul, the most popular of which is logically the connection to central Taksim Square. During the day they leave every 15 minutes. The whole journey to the centre takes around 90 minutes depending on traffic. A ticket to Taksim Square (and other destinations within the centre) costs 18 TRY and can be bought directly from the bus. You do not need a HES code.
There is an "Istanbulkart", a card for public transport in Istanbul. You can buy this for 10 TRY from a kiosk or machine in the arrivals hall or at the bus stop, and you can pay with card or cash. The card can be loaded with any amount of money and can be used on the metro, buses, trams and public transport. However, I have not used this card.
I'm flying Istanbul - Antalya with a local low-cost airline Paegasus. The flight is practically full, the journey is an hour long and the landing is right on time. For me, a big compliment to this company.
At the airport, I wait for about 30 minutes for my reserved car. A word of caution for anyone planning to do the same: once you leave the airport hall, you can't get back into the airport hall (without a ticket, even in a light Turkish rain). The gentleman from the rental car company a few km away from the airport arrives about half an hour late, which I cut short by unsuccessfully feeding the local cats. But the toast and cheese from the Viennese lounge is not good enough for them.
Antalya Airport: is the most important air port on Turkey's Mediterranean coast. It lies about 8 km from Antalya, 40 km from Kemer and 110 km from Alanya. There are two international terminals and one domestic terminal in operation, which are at their peak during the summer.
The airport is accessible by bus and tram from the centre, but be warned that the tram only stops at Terminal 1 and does not run to Terminal 2, 1km away. Without an HES code, you will now not be able to get on the tram.
Bus 600 connects both terminals with the city centre and Otogar bus station, where you can already transfer to any bus in the region - see antalyaulasim.com.tr for more information. Bus 800 connects both terminals with the Lara district and virtually the entire city's coastline.
A taxi from the airport to the centre or to the Lara coast costs 80 TRY.
The transfer to AYK Car Rental is quick, and the red Fiat that took me there already stays for the price of 70 EUR/5 days. Diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey and I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road.
TRAVEL IN TURKEY
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road. Renting a car for 5 days is 70 EUR, diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey, I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
After flying into Istanbul, two days in this city using mainly my own legs and one cruise on the Bosphorus. By the way, one of the most common cars in Istanbul is our Czech-made Koda.
After moving on to the relaxing part of the journey back to the Riviera, it was just the resort, the sea and the beach - so no use of transport.
And then it's about 30 minutes drive through Antalya at night to the hotel, where I can still use the all inclusive services for the last hour...
...and that I am!!!
Sealife Family Resort Hotel
The local Mojito and wine with Sprite (read Turkish Palava) may not be great, but after today - thanks for that! The hotel is pretty full (for Covid), but mostly locals.
TURKING IN TURKEY
I choose my accommodation with the check in of the flight, two days before departure. Although - even that is a risk nowadays! One rather important thing about accommodation in Turkey: book it in advance for the entire stay!!! Because there is no booking in Turkey. When you go to this app here, it doesn't work. Quite a shock for me. It is solvable if you only have accommodation for the first night. You choose through Agoda, tripadvisor, etc. But for autistic people who love the clarity of booking - stupid. I'll add - from home you choose and book the accommodation via booking - it works. Just not on the spot.
If you are going to the Riviera, I would recommend "not skimping" and choosing an all inclusive hotel. This is in fact the cheapest accommodation option. I guarantee that you will not spend a penny on food and drink. And considering the price of wine and alcohol, it really is the cheapest way to go.
If you're going to be in Istanbul for a night or two, then don't skimp either and choose accommodation in the centre, as close to the mosques as possible. I chose a hotel in an amazing location. Order and amenities 1A and all - I have never experienced such an amazing attitude to guests in my life!! Welcome drink, upgrade to the best room for the price of a basic room, bottle of wine in the room as a courtesy of the company or gifts at check out..just a dream. Also the constantly smiling and helpful staff who won't let you pass by without asking if everything is ok. The breakfast is absolute luxury and the view from the rooftop of Hagia Sophia - perfection!
ANTALYA - PAMUKKALE
Travel fatigue got to me, so I decide to spend half a day on the beach, which is across the road "in front of the house". The sun is shining, and even though the locals are walking around in down jackets, for me it feels like a tank top and shorts. The view from the beach of the snow-capped mountains is something I will remember for a long time.
Since it's almost noon, I'll have time for lunch at the hotel and then I'm on my way to Pamukkale. I have 250 km to go, so about 3 and a half hours behind the wheel. This is the most beautiful road I've ever driven. The way the snow-capped mountain peaks suddenly emerge closer and closer from the sunny almost summer Riviera is a fat experience. I enjoy it most when I'm refueling, but I also take pictures and snap photos along the way. It was 16 degrees outside when I started the trip. In the mountains at the gas station, it's 1 degree. You don't notice it in the car because it's a beautiful sunny day, but I almost froze at the gas station. In shorts :)
I arrive in Pamukkale before 5 pm, the nicest time of the day. That's when the best sunlight hits all the beauty around. I park the car, pay the parking fee and immediately afterwards learn from the gentleman who just collected me that Pamukkale closes at 5pm. Funny man :)
Well never mind, it's beautiful so I'm going to walk wherever the paths allow. Snow-covered icy hills contrasting with summer skies, all bathed in warm afternoon sun, it's absolutely mesmerizing scenery. I walk past a pond with ducks, through green grass with streams and enjoy the afternoon almost summer in Pamukkale. Sitting here on the mesas in the grass, having a glass (read PET bottle with wine topped up from the last all inclusive hotel) and enjoying this wonderful moment with all my senses, after the snowy landscape on the way here, is the best part of the whole day.
After about an hour, I go to the hotel. Even though it's almost dark, it's still pretty early. Luckily, I brought my PC, so I'm playing downloaded movies. First up is Hanka Třeštíková's Farewell to the Children, which is a gritty time-lapse I saw a year or so ago, and - like then - it evoked some pretty strange feelings in me here. Mostly thoughts about how some people's fate is...predestined. Sadly predestined. It makes me all the more aware of what an amazing life I can live. To travel, to see so many beautiful places and things, to dream of more and more adventurous places with each trip, and yet know that ...EVERYTHING WILL BE. Because the only person who can stop me from doing that or who can help me realize my dreams is me.
Since hunger is getting to me, I treat myself to the best dinner of the whole trip here at the hotel. There are only two rooms occupied in the hotel, one of which is mine. Even so, there is no shortage of impeccable service and food that is delivered on a tray to your bed when you order it. The prices are folksy.
PAMUKKALE - OILUDENIZ - KEMER
.I wake up in Pamukkale and after a delicious breakfast and check-in I head to the parking lot of this "monument". It's the weekend, and in the time of Covid, that means only one thing in Turkey - no one is allowed to leave home except tourists. I drive through a depopulated "town", which is actually an incredible village with everything that belongs to the word village. Sheds, farmhouses, junk, chickens, rabbits, dogs and cats.... Meanwhile, about 4 hotels and then a road with a car park to the ponds. This attraction has elevated the sheer hole to a place every tourist goes to see. However, I don't think anyone spends more than a night here. Actually, not even that, most people take day trips here, and it's quite possible that if they were still open after 5pm yesterday, I would have moved on to the shoreline then too. However, as fate would have it, Covid has reduced the opening hours from 8pm to 5pm. Well, I'm only finding out today that this is exactly how it was supposed to be! Whereas yesterday the sky was turquoise and the sun was the strength of summer, today it is overcast and under a cloud. Not just under a cloud - under an almost apocalyptic black cloud that inspires fear and awe. It is under such a black sky that I park and walk, accompanied by a pack of stray, but very friendly, dogs to the entrance of the grounds. It is 10 o'clock, they are just opening and I am all alone. The only one in all of Pamukkale. I mean, plus the pack of dogs and the park rangers. What an incredible experience!
In times long past (non-covid) one of the biggest tourist attractions, now a place where you walk completely alone across a snow-white travertine slope. It's just you, a few guardians of this treasure, the ducks on the lake, and a pack of local dogs who willingly and quite amicably escort you to the entrance of the travertine surface.
For 230 CZK (entrance fee) you can enjoy this white splendour from all sides and angles, as well as with your own bare feet (a must before entering the travertine). But if you read some information beforehand (like this one😉), you'll find that you can avoid walking on really cold and wet ground: thanks to disposable hotel slippers. These (as well as socks, but you will get them wet immediately) the guards will easily allow you to keep on your feet at all times. I recommend taking two so that you can change them after a while, when the first slippers get wet.
The size of this slope (translated as cotton castle in Czech) is 2700m in width and 160m in height. Pamukkale is an area of tectonic faulting where mineral springs flow to the surface. This mineral water flows down the rock to form deposits known as travertine. And that's exactly how this impressive panorama was created over many thousands of years - terraces, cascades and pools that take your breath away with their simple, pure, snow-white beauty.
More so if you manage to experience this place on a glorious sunny day, when the sky is cloudless and the sky blue, and the following day with seemingly haunting overcast skies. Personally, I find overcast skies to be the most beautiful sight. It is here that the contrast of the white travertine with the turquoise water and the black sky above is something like heaven and hell.
These terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Hieralipole excavations. This is the ruins of an ancient Roman city, which includes a large amphitheatre and necropolis. You can also visit here as part of the entrance fee. It was Pamukkale that was the "wellness" for the inhabitants of the city at that time. They had it figured out perfectly!
The limestone rock travertine is also found in the Czech Republic - in the vicinity of Beroun, in the Cikánský dolík in Slánsko, etc., but not in such an amazing form. Similar formations to those in Pamukkale can be seen in Yellowstone National Park in the USA or in Hungary.
I exit the compound on the opposite side from my car. They've got it cleverly done - I think the same thing happens to everyone. Because I'm pressed for time, I take a taxi to my car. Apparently every other visitor has to do that too.. Anyway, never mind, for a hundred it saves me at least an hour, maybe an hour and a half walking. And time is money, isn't it? I get in my Fiat and head for the coast.
The first part of the journey is to Ölüdeniz beach, which is supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Clearly, this point is not to be missed on my itinerary. I have 210 km of mountains ahead of me. I ride it for about 4 hours, because the weather has completely turned its sunny face away and after a few kilometres I was riding only in the fog I know from Reed Pond. After a while the fog was compounded by a downpour so heavy that my windscreen wipers were not enough and to make matters worse, the route turned into endless serpentines and ups and downs in them. Stopping at a petrol station and running out of the car to use the toilet - that was two minutes when I was completely drenched. Weather that wouldn't chase a dog away. Well, I don't need to mention that downpour, fog and serpentines in the mountains is the last place you want to experience your first puncture of a rental car...
I'd like to say it was a well-deserved reward, but I'd be lying :) The whole impression was spoiled by the apparently beautiful resort in the summer without Covid, now a depopulated horror with no people that looked like something out of Alfred Hitchcock. A few more birds and it's all over.
And so I drive over to the beach and get out of the car. The sky is still dark and the haze of fog also hides the beauty of this coast. However, the turquoise colour of the sea is breathtaking and so is the beautiful beach. Actually, I believe this beach is top-notch under ideal conditions. I enjoy it for a while, but then, thanks to the loss of time, I get back behind the wheel and drive on. Today's destination is Kemer and it is another 250 km /3,5h drive away. Simply - a day like a good one!
The drive to Kemer is fascinating because suddenly there are several numbers of frozen snow on the road. On top of that, it's snowing, visibility is at zero again and there's a terrible wind. This is a hell of a test of driving skills!! Along the way, I'm occasionally stopped in towns by police checking to see if the locals really only leave the house on the weekend for emergencies. There are a lot of checks, but everywhere you just pull out your passport and they let you - a tourist - continue on your way. A bit unfair, no.
I arrive in Kemer at dusk and head straight to the hotel where I'll be staying for two days. Tomorrow is reported to be sunny, so I plan to relax by the sea. It's a pretty crazy idea when 30 km away there's 20 cm of snow on the road, freezing and drizzling... But the Norwegian radar says it's 17 degrees and sunny, so I believe it.
This hotel is TOP, there are lots of amazing cats that go wherever they want. You can take them on your lap for an evening drink and reminisce about the cats back home.
This was a busy day, but made all the more so by a full day.
KEMER
Norway radar didn't lie - a day like a catalogue from Chedok right from waking up. I'll cut today short - Kemer is a divine place to relax! The sea is gorgeous, the beach is pebbly, but it suits the backdrop of mountains all around. The most famous beach of this location is Moonlight beach - minimum people and a glass of Mojito/wine on the beach guarantees the best relaxation!
Once the sun rises perpendicularly above you, you can even now get into the sea without feeling any freezing. Totally cool. I'm in shock myself, and when I think back to yesterday's snow a few dozen miles away in my swimsuit, it feels like the Matrix. This day was just a gift!
KEMER
There is a lot to see and experience in this area. For example, the DoluSu water park, one of the most extreme water parks in Turkey. There are many attractions (especially extreme water slides), swimming pools, but also a dolphinarium.
In close proximity to Kemer, two rock formations rise skyward amidst the forests and have long been linked and a destination for climbers. The Turkish name Ikiz Kayalar means "Double Mountain".
In addition, the Taurus Mountains with the peak of Tahtalı Dağı (2,366 m above sea level) are located in the vicinity of Kemer. Adjacent to the mountain range is the Olympos Beydagları National Park, which is home not only to the ancient city of Olympos, beautiful nature, but especially to the natural flames that rise directly from the ground in the Ulupinar Mountains, thanks to the natural gas seeps. The Turks call them Yanartas, but they are generally known as Chimera, a reference to Greek mythology.
There are also caves, ancient monuments and much more around Kemer. In other words, the perfect place for a week-long family holiday.
KEMER - SIDE - ANTALYA - ISTANBUL
I'll be waking up pretty early, because there's more on the schedule again today. After breakfast, I'm getting cleaned up and getting back in the car. I'm a little nervous about the text on the display that says something about 140 km and the engine. Well I don't speak Turkish, I also recall a briefing at the rental shop where the guy above one red light told me it was ok not to worry about it, so I ignore that too and drive.
Today's destination is the city of Side and then it's on to the rental car, return the car, transfer to the airport and a 6pm flight to Istanbul. It's not a short drive, it's a two hour/120km drive to Side. Of course, this does not take into account the conversion to reserve driving (80 km/h).
The journey is relaxing, even through Antalya I pass through quite fine. In Side I park for free just outside the historic centre, calculate the time left and give myself 2 hours for the city and just the transfer to the airport.
It's a beautiful city, no question about it. A million monuments all around the road to the port. Really, there are probably more ancient monuments in Turkey than in Rome. At least here in Side stopro!
I'm walking around, taking pictures and slowly walking through the centre to the harbour.
At the entrance to the historical part there is a monumental fountain - nymphaeum. It is a man-made cave, which was naturally supplied with water. It is also one of the examples of water management at that time.
The main attraction of the city is the Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century, which is interesting because its auditorium was not excavated into the hillside, but was built up in stone. For me, the most beautiful site is the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where Antony and Cleopatra are said to have met. The temple was Antony's proof of his great love for Cleopatra... he couldn't have chosen a more beautiful place to build a temple of love! It's really beautiful on that seashore!
The harbour with the lighthouse is really beautiful. The turquoise sea and the colourful fishing boats make a perfectly romantic atmosphere. I'll have a kebab and tea here, and it's at a stall with a gorgeous dog, Johnny. The husky here in warm Turkey looks...strange. I'm barely finished eating before the gentleman is asking me to get up from the table - they're not allowed to serve food other than to take away. I didn't know that and he let me eat in peace too. I wish he wouldn't - outside at a table where the only two people are me and him. Strange times these...
It's just about time to head to the car and get out - to catch my flight.
I walk to the car, sit down, turn the key and ...NOTHING. At the best of times! The info on the display talks about AdBlue and the translator jumps to something about the clutch...I can't figure this out on my own. I go to the taxi drivers nearby and they translate the information immediately. I need to put something in the tank. And I'm supposed to buy it at the gas station. They take me there, I buy the aforementioned AdBlue, and we go back to the car. They tell me where to put it and really - as soon as I fill it up, I start. It was about 40 minutes, so ...FOFR!
I'm at the rental place in about an hour, I get 50 TRY for the fluid, which is exactly what I give the owner again for a flat tire. Great, I was expecting much worse! He knows I'm in a hurry, so he fofs too and within moments we're sitting in the car heading to the airport. I know I'm in time now.
Check-in is over in moments and I board the Paegasus bound for Istanbul. The flight is almost full again.
After one hour flight Istanbul!
I get out of the airport quite quickly and there is a bus stopping in front of the hall, which goes to the centre to Taksim Square. You can pay on the bus and no HES code is needed. The journey takes an hour and a half..
I arrive at the hotel by taxi from the square, it is almost midnight.
However, I still got an amazing welcome drink and a room upgrade to the best possible room. And that's really nice!
I wake up in the morning with a view of Hagia Sophia from my balcony. Beautiful!! I take the elevator up to the roof terrace where breakfast is served and marvel even more at the beauty. Breakfast 1A! Well, after breakfast, hooray for the city. After all, I have to catch as much as I can, I only have one full day in this city.
A city of sumptuous baklava, the best salep, bookstores at every turn (damn, some local Albatros should have published my book here!! :D ) and most importantly, for Covide's time, an incredible life! It is here that I feel all the time that the world is right again. Just like it used to be..
The city itself is divided by the Bosphorus Strait into Asian and European parts. Its biggest advantage is the fact that its most interesting tourist spots lie in a relatively small area. Islamic Arabic architecture and culture are really at every turn here, especially the Turkish mosques. Istanbul's most famous landmarks include Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Tulip Mosque, Suleiman Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Dolmabahance Palace, Constantine's Column, the Jerebatan Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Hippodrome, the Galata Tower and the Valenti Aqueduct. I didn't even see a third of it, yet I rank this city, with its atmosphere with a touch of the exotic, next to Marrakech, as one of those that one should definitely see and experience. And not just once!
On the European side, the most famous district is Sultanahmet, with its distinctive Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia (in Czech, "Temple of God's Wisdom"), or, from the ground, the inconspicuous Yerebatan Sarnıcı, a basilica cistern. This underground water tank was built in the 6th century to supply drinking water to the nearby imperial palace. It holds over 80 thousand cubic meters of water. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of my trip...
The Hagia Sophia, originally a Christian temple and one of the most famous sacred buildings in the world, TODAY IS A MESSAGE... The temple was built on the site where two churches originally stood. Both buildings became the seat of the Orthodox Patriarchate until the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. The arrival of the Turks marked the end of the Byzantine Empire and the conversion of the two churches into a mosque. The latter was additionally provided with four minarets. Interestingly, Hagia Sophia became the first ever mosque in Turkey. Other similar temples were built throughout the Ottoman Empire, following its model.
The massive main dome is supported by four pillars. Each of these pillars is 18 metres high and 7.5 metres wide. The bottom floor of the museum is the main space, while the top floor is reserved for women only. The walls of the temple are covered with six kinds of marble slabs and these are firmly anchored with bronze clasps. Equally interesting is the floor of the temple itself, which is decorated with ornamental marble mosaics. The walls and vaults are covered with mosaics of angels and saints.
Admission to Hagia Sophia is free, but you must cover your hair, shoulders and at least your knees (just throw a sweatshirt over your head) and of course take off your shoes.
The Blue Mosque (the official name of the Blue Mosque is Sultan Ahmet Camii after its founder Sultan Ahmed) is in the Sultanahmet district, where most tourists go when exploring Istanbul's main sights. It is the most important mosque in Istanbul. Not only is it huge, but it has six minarets, the largest number of minarets of any mosque. The interior walls of the mosque are coloured blue, hence its name. Sultan Ahmed believed that the ubiquitous blue colour would help the faithful in their conversion to God. The tiles come from Iznik and are typically decorated with motifs of lilies, carnations, tulips and roses. There are twenty thousand of these unique tiles and they are still bright and shining. The motifs are always floral or abstract; Islam forbids the depiction of figures. The building is supported by four pillars, called elephant feet. If you raise your head in the middle, you will see that the dome of the mosque forms a four-leaf clover, the corners are also decorated with half domes and the interior is decorated with balconies on three sides. The interior is illuminated by countless small glass windows as well as a chandelier hanging from a huge chain from the ceiling.
Even here, admission is free, and under the same veiled and cramped conditions as Hagia Sophia.
The Galata Bridge spans the mouth of the Golden Horn. The upper level is primarily used for transport, while the lower level consists of a promenade lined with shops and restaurants.
Grand Bazaar is one of the world's largest indoor marketplaces. There are more than 58 indoor arcades and over 1200 shops. Around 250,000 to 400,000 tourists visit it daily (unless it is Covid). The market covers an area of 45 hectares and employs about 20,000 people.
If you want to get a taste of the market atmosphere but prefer a quieter pace, try Sahaflar Carsisi (literally "book market"), where, in addition to a wide range of books from around the world, instead of crowds of tourists, you'll mainly meet locals.
Well, the best part of the whole day for me is the boat ride on the Bosphorus, where you can enjoy all the beauty of the Asian and European side of Istanbul with seagulls overhead and the water below you, which your boat crosses. One hour cruise for 260 CZK. Right here, perhaps have a local tea or feed the leftover pastries to the seagulls. An experience beyond experiences.
Well, the absolute best end of the day is a walk through the night centre and a kebab dinner in a local restaurant. Nice at the table like a man, with freshly squeezed orange juice (secretly spiked with vodka). A dinner that you enjoy to the last bite, even if you're bursting at the seams, and a time that passes like water, even if it was quite long. Sitting in that garden, enjoying the view of Istanbul at night, you realise that this moment will be the one you will always remember first when you think of this metropolis.
ISTANBUL - ANTALYA LARA
Morning wake-up call, breakfast, transfer to the airport and there decision.
Instead of flying home, I'm flying back south! On the day of my departure, the Norwegian radar predicts clear skies for the next 5 days with temperatures of 20 degrees, which translates to a tropical summer, while at home it is a real Ladovian winter. And not only that! Considering the covid situation in the Czech Republic and the fact that the next trip is in the stars, I change international departures to domestic departures, buy a flight from Istanbul back to the Turkish Riviera with Paegasus and change the story. First time without a return ticket home. I'll change my mind - depending on the weather and the colour of my skin :)
So instead of getting on the plane at 12 o'clock for Vienna, I board the plane at 13 o'clock for Antalya. After an hour of flight I land and transfer to the city centre with the help of a helpful local tram worker for free.
The reason is that I can't get through the tram turnstile without the HES code. He sees my futile efforts, explains that I really can't do it without HES, and then says I'm having a lucky day. His shift is over and he's going downtown. So he pulled me through the turnstile to and from the tram and showed me the historic city centre. After about an hour of sightseeing, I get into a taxi and get a ride to the hotel I booked, where I will be resting and touching up my paint for the next 5 days.
I have no itinerary for these days. I don't plan any travelling, just sun, sea, sleep and good food. Well, what I set out to do, I did.
Aside from wandering around, the only place I visited during this time that is worth mentioning is the waterfalls falling into the sea about 5 km from my hotel. I walked there and back, and that alone was an experience.
The scenery from the cliffs was breathtaking and I had to stop every now and then to take pictures. I just couldn't do it any other way. Plus, the whole cliff to Düden Falls is one big park where locals sit and enjoy the beautiful sunny afternoon. In a time of pandemic - an incredible spectacle. Families, lovers, singles... Lots of people smiling, eating all kinds of goodies, sipping Turkish tea from a thermos and enjoying the beautiful day.
The Düden Falls are the aforementioned destination and are definitely a unique natural phenomenon worth seeing. Entrance to the area is not possible during Covid.
Otherwise, however, there is a fee and according to sources, "... it is lined with exotic palm trees. The tour itself then takes you around the watercourse and waterfalls on marked trails. At several points you can rest on a bench and just enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of this little natural wonder. The whole complex is designed as a park and botanical garden, where you can also picnic to the sound of the wild water. Tables and benches are also available. Probably the most interesting and exciting experience besides watching and listening to the unruly spring is the walk behind the cascade itself, which gives you a completely different point of view. Water enters the foothill landscape from the Taurus Mountains, which form the Antalya landscape and where several rivers and streams - including the Düden River - also originate. It falls from a cliff at the same place, from a height of 15 metres and a width of 20 metres. In the course of its long course, however, the strong water has also managed to make its way right through the rock mass, and so it penetrates several times into the mountain depths, from which it rises again to the surface of the earth, eventually to continue on the ground in the form of a clear stream. Due to the rich mineralisation, stalactites grow in some of the caves where the water enters and volcanic minerals form the riverbed itself. In addition, other smaller streams and brooks flow in from the surrounding overgrown hills, which also form various forms of small waterfalls and waterfalls in places."
Eventually the current of water rushes up to the cliff, from which the water falls unstoppably into the depths of the Mediterranean in all its mighty force. This is an experience that even Covid can't take away! It is the view from the sea surface or from the cliff from which the water current cuts the sea surface that is the scenery worth all the money! Even more so when it's drenched by the setting sun.
On my last day, my alarm woke me up at 5am. The taxi from the hotel to the airport takes 20 minutes and costs 240 CZK. The check-in is faster than I expected, so I still connect to the café's wifi and surf the net for a while after buying a coffee and getting a PIN code.
The Antalya - Istanbul flight is again a leisurely hour, but then I have a lot of work to do to make the 50-minute connection in Istanbul from the domestic departures section to the international departures section. I manage, but I recommend everyone to give themselves a little more time to make the connection.
The flight to Vienna was complicated by a passenger getting up during the descent - just before the plane hit the ground. I will long remember the shouting of the cabin crew at the lady in the scarf, who was handing her suitcase a little prematurely. As will the resuscitation of the lady two aisles ahead of me a few seconds later. Well done. I wish it hadn't - on the wings of a pegasus... But it wasn't the only miracle on board! I also had a three-seater all to myself on a completely full plane :)
Transport to the Czech Republic by train was uneventful, only the Ladov winter, reaching 10 degrees below zero, was a bit of a massacre. A temperature difference of 30 degrees is nothing for me! It's a good thing they have that Prosecco at the airport for €2.9.
Turkey is a country for which even 12 days is not enough. I'll definitely go back and try using domestic flights for a much more detailed itinerary. I can only recommend Turkey to everyone, even now in the Covid era. Because even if it's not Zanzibar or the Maldives, and even if you do wear a veil, you still get a real break from it.
The best part of this trip for me will always be the fact that it WAS. Even after 145 years (not mine!! but the ones between heaven and earth..), as flight memory recently calculated, no flight is ordinary for me. Each one is Something Something, I have a light sleepless night before each one and a great anticipation of all that lies ahead. For with each new journey, I am more and more aware that travel is not a given and that each trip I take may be my last for a long time. I remember one day 11 months ago. I was sitting on the beach in Cahuita, waiting for my repatriation flight home, while reading headlines that we might not see the border for two years. I remember exactly the feelings I had at the time. It was the need to return home from the restless waves of the Caribbean - where my T, the THING I always come home for (Dad, That Miki, Mine), was always there, but at the same time I felt like not getting on board. To escape the impossibility of travel, for me - the impossibility of really living. Sophie's Choice was playing out inside me, and I really wasn't sure if I had made the right choice as I boarded the plane to Halifax - Reykjavik - Prague. Then everything went wrong, as it happens in life, and my "Covid year" was not only not as tragic as it looked at its starting line, but I flew and travelled the most in my life. It's just that everything is different now and no one knows what tomorrow will bring. We are tired of restrictions, limits, but also scared of every new covid wave and mutation. And people. By the way we forgot to sweep in front of our own doorstep, but quietly sweep 5 times a day in front of our neighbor's. And make it fly! I won't lie - I'm not immortal either, even I get scared sometimes. Sometimes I'm afraid of getting the last of Athens canceled, sometimes I'm afraid of death. Not mine, but the ones I love. Yeah, I'm even afraid of that Covid sometimes. Even though I still think the same thing I wrote a long time ago (it would be a real bummer if I just got shot by an assassin somewhere, swept away by a tsunami, or stung by a malaria-infected mosquito...), the possibility of not contagion, but fatality, is always there. I'm not a "Covid denier", the statistics of this virus make the word "possibility" even a "probability", it's just that whenever the oppression, fear and the desire to barricade myself at home and voluntarily set my arm and my immunity to something I don't trust a fingernail, I remember NI. A girl a few years older than me whose funeral I attended a few months ago. It wasn't Covid, it was "regular" cancer. I've thought about her almost daily for the last 9 months, and especially on every trip. I think of her threadbare knickers that she gave me with the intention of taking them somewhere she will never go again. I wore those knickers on Teide and walked out with them above the clouds. I've carried them with me often since then, and every time I put them on my feet I realize how lucky I am. Not that they fit my size, but that I "can do anything". That I have my life, what's left of it, firmly in my hands. And that, I'm sorry to anyone who's pissed off, I'm really not going to give that up. Maybe experience Turkey a second time. Covid notwithstanding. And not only Covid, also to all those who have forgotten (or worse - never experienced) what it's like to travel. I certainly haven't forgotten, won't forget, and won't pretend that a year (we're finishing first, but there will be two, three..?) can be endured without these feelings. Because it can't, and more importantly, no one knows how much time "to waste" each of us has left. And a year, sorry, like, that's really more than I can and want to give my and Ilka's sneakers off.
So what will I remember most?
Obviously Istanbul, which has enthralled me with the atmosphere of the city and the incredibly un-civil LIFE in every alleyway. Also, the best pistachio baklava cupcake and a goodness called salep, which I drank as quickly as I drank a cup of cocoa as a child. The boat ride, where I just sat for a while with a contented ear-to-ear grin on my face, was the best time I've had in this metropolis as I explored it for the first time. Staying there made me realize how amazing it is to be able to motivate your people, your team and how when someone can do that - miracles happen. Because the work of every single person in the hotel where I stayed for two nights was truly a miracle for me.
The beach in Kemer, where you not only get into the sea but experience the most beautiful relaxation by the sea waves that I can imagine, I would include this in any Riviera itinerary.
And of course the people-pleasing Pamukkale, the absolute ceiling of the trip, where I could stomp alone on the travertine slopes and realize the old familiar "thank you!" Taking in the contrast of two days, two different skies - sunny and freezing black, and realizing that both have their own magic and both just belong together. Just like good and evil, just like black and white, just like bad wine and Sprite (Turkish Palava). Life is not all about perfect days and moments, and that's what this trip convinced me of the most. That you can puncture your bike at the worst possible moment in the worst possible place or not start when you need to, but if you can still put a smile on your face and handle the situation with calmness (because nothing else will help you anyway), you not only win, but also have a recipe for "all the riches in the world": don't shit yourself even in the worst moments and keep moving forward. Even 350 km at an average speed of 120 km on reserve with a range of 80 km!
...and better yet - feel free to switch from lovecost to business class sometime along that journey of a lifetime, because even though it's an adrenaline rush, it's damn well worth it!
A little bit of Asia, a little bit of Europe, just a mixture of spices that will get you and bring a breath of exoticism back into your life in these covid times... Baklava, Salep, beautiful beaches with the sea that you can get into in winter and look out at the snow-capped mountains. Istanbul, the Orient in the palm of your hand. Kemer, Side, Antalya - the Riviera as it should be. And Pamukkale, where you're the only person on a white travertine slope. Turkey, my new love.
Why Turkey? I've been to Turkey once, about five years ago. You'd be surprised - on a sightseeing tour with a travel agency! I bought Turkey for 7 nights for an unbelievable price, which included a return ticket from Prague, the services of a guide for the whole week, and accommodation in four-star hotels with breakfast. The price also included a bus that drove us all over the Turkish interior. And the price? 3900 CZK per person per day. This event was for seniors 50+.. As I found out later - the Turkish government subsidizes stays for this group of people. The reason is clear, the tour guides of the travel agencies go around with them to all the local vendors and producers and try to sell them as many local goods as possible. So our expedition also visited a pottery workshop, a carpet factory, a perfume factory, a leather goods factory... Anyway, no one forced the younger ones (and there were five of us from the whole trip) to buy - it was clear that we were only taking this as an excursion, not as a shopping opportunity. That made us enjoy this trip all the more. There were two possible tours at the time. One was going to Cappadocia and the other to Pamukkale. I chose to go to Cappadocia, which is undoubtedly the main jewel of Turkey. But I knew even then that I would not be the last person to visit this country. I had to see Pamukkale too. And now the time is right! COVID SITUATION - OPERATIONS IN TURKEY A PCR negative test no older than 72 hours is required before traveling to Turkey. This is to be shown at boarding in Vienna and without it you will not be allowed on board. You do not need it anywhere else in Turkey (either on arrival or on domestic flights). Locals must have the so-called HES code, which can only be obtained via a Turkish SIM. I wasn't planning on getting either a SIM or data, hence the HES. The HES code is only necessary from a tourist's perspective when moving by public transport (without the code you don't get on any means of transport that has a turnstile leading to it - tram, train, metro). However, if you plan to use domestic flights, car rental and taxi, even the bus from Istanbul airport to the city centre, you really don't need the HES code. Not even for accommodation, as mentioned in many places. In Turkey it is compulsory to wear a veil everywhere, under a fine of 3000 TRY (apart from Zanzibar where in the world not, right?). So 80% of people wear one, but the number drops rapidly wherever you are with someone further out of public areas. Hotels, beaches, parks... Here the veil is immediately shed, both by foreigners and locals. As soon as you take a few steps off a busy road and into a park, there are easily a hundred people sitting on a grassy area without veils, just like the good old days at a fancy summer festival. Educative stickers of premises (hotels, restaurants, airports, public transport...) - in the maximum level. Covid pictograms are not missing in any shop window, on any entrance door, on floors, on tables... The 11 commandments here have replaced the 14 covid commandments - you will find this info sign at every turn. Surface disinfection here is as automatic as cashing in a customer after a purchase. The disposable packaging in hotel restaurants is reaching absurd levels. Every cutlery in a paper bag, everything disposable. But what I was very pleasantly surprised by - minimum plastic and plastic, everything in paper packaging. The shops are banned from selling alcohol on Saturdays and Sundays!! I don't know if this is Covid related or normal here, either way I consider it important information. If you don't solve it with an all inclusive hotel, don't buy alcohol in time for the weekend. The locals have a curfew all weekend, that is Sat and Sun. However, this ban does not apply to tourists. In real life, for example, police checks are done on the roads to stop every car. Tourists have to prove not only their identity but also the reason for their trip. Once they stop you and you show your passport, they immediately wish you a good day and let you drive on. The monuments are more or less open in Turkey, but there are usually reduced opening hours. Pamukkale, for example, had opening hours of 10am - 8pm according to the website, in reality they closed at 5pm. The overall mood across Turkey is totally relaxed. On a boat in Istanbul, for example, you indicate that you don't want to clean up the empty tea cup in front of you and the attendant immediately smiles and lets you contemplate the empty cup further. No cover.
BRNO - VÍDEŇ - ISTANBUL ANTALYA
The journey begins by boarding the train Brno - Vienna. I have to say that sneaking from lovcost to business class was a masterpiece right from the start! And still approved by the cabin crew. It is because of this that this train ride will always be an unforgettable experience for me, one that comes to mind every time I hear the word train. It was simply a spectacular start to a spectacular trip!
At the train station in Vienna, I jump on the train to the airport, where I walk into the local airport Spar in less than 20 minutes.
I find my favourite departure/arrival Prosecco at the even more popular (unchanged) price of €2.9 on my shelf. For I know full well that the lounge is under Covid, or restrictions associated with it, and this is the last chance to enjoy the airport bubbly.
The lounge, of course, passed and "did not disappoint". Or rather, it failed exactly as I predicted. A paper bag with a banana, half a piece of toast with cottage cheese and a cabbage leaf, a fruko and a biscuit - that's the current Vienna Airport lounge.
The negative PCR test, which wasn't needed when I bought my tickets to Turkey but was on the day of departure, I only show once the whole time, and that to the really superficial gaze of the lady at the counter who prints my ticket against my passport. That's all. The worst spent 1 500 CZK of this trip.
The flight to Istanbul passed quietly and quite quickly. I had no idea how much time to leave for the connection to the domestic flight to Antalya. Only now I can say that an hour is plenty. I left 3 hours to allow for a reserve, so I cut my time short in the Istanbul lounge. There's a cloud of food, all honestly disposably packaged, but not a drop of alcohol. I'm beginning to think Covid is already in Turkey...
Istanbul Airport: has been open since April 2019 and the entire operation of the original airport has been moved here. The airport aspires to be the largest airport in the world and is located about 50 km from the city centre.
Istanbul airport atmosphere? It's as if Covid didn't exist. A million people, a buzz, a murmur. Check-in was a rush, I didn't take my cosmetics or laptop out of my bag while scanning - no one even demanded it. There is a wifi point at the Istanbul airport for international departures, where you get a pin code after presenting your passport and ticket, which gives you 30 minutes of wifi for free. If you are waiting at the gate, find a cafe with a wifi logo and if you buy at least a coffee there, you will get the wifi password from the staff as well. The lounge offers a decent range of food, lots of local goodies, coffee, tea, soft drinks, fruit salads, vegetable salads, pasta salads, desserts ... but zero alcohol. So it's a bummer.
Currently, the fastest service to downtown is provided by HavaIst buses. From the airport, there are 5 lines operating to the whole of Istanbul, the most popular of which is logically the connection to central Taksim Square. During the day they leave every 15 minutes. The whole journey to the centre takes around 90 minutes depending on traffic. A ticket to Taksim Square (and other destinations within the centre) costs 18 TRY and can be bought directly from the bus. You do not need a HES code.
There is an "Istanbulkart", a card for public transport in Istanbul. You can buy this for 10 TRY from a kiosk or machine in the arrivals hall or at the bus stop, and you can pay with card or cash. The card can be loaded with any amount of money and can be used on the metro, buses, trams and public transport. However, I have not used this card.
I'm flying Istanbul - Antalya with a local low-cost airline Paegasus. The flight is practically full, the journey is an hour long and the landing is right on time. For me, a big compliment to this company.
At the airport, I wait for about 30 minutes for my reserved car. A word of caution for anyone planning to do the same: once you leave the airport hall, you can't get back into the airport hall (without a ticket, even in a light Turkish rain). The gentleman from the rental car company a few km away from the airport arrives about half an hour late, which I cut short by unsuccessfully feeding the local cats. But the toast and cheese from the Viennese lounge is not good enough for them.
Antalya Airport: is the most important air port on Turkey's Mediterranean coast. It lies about 8 km from Antalya, 40 km from Kemer and 110 km from Alanya. There are two international terminals and one domestic terminal in operation, which are at their peak during the summer.
The airport is accessible by bus and tram from the centre, but be warned that the tram only stops at Terminal 1 and does not run to Terminal 2, 1km away. Without an HES code, you will now not be able to get on the tram.
Bus 600 connects both terminals with the city centre and Otogar bus station, where you can already transfer to any bus in the region - see antalyaulasim.com.tr for more information. Bus 800 connects both terminals with the Lara district and virtually the entire city's coastline.
A taxi from the airport to the centre or to the Lara coast costs 80 TRY.
The transfer to AYK Car Rental is quick, and the red Fiat that took me there already stays for the price of 70 EUR/5 days. Diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey and I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road.
TRAVEL IN TURKEY
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road. Renting a car for 5 days is 70 EUR, diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey, I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
After flying into Istanbul, two days in this city using mainly my own legs and one cruise on the Bosphorus. By the way, one of the most common cars in Istanbul is our Czech-made Koda.
After moving on to the relaxing part of the journey back to the Riviera, it was just the resort, the sea and the beach - so no use of transport.
And then it's about 30 minutes drive through Antalya at night to the hotel, where I can still use the all inclusive services for the last hour...
...and that I am!!!
Sealife Family Resort Hotel
The local Mojito and wine with Sprite (read Turkish Palava) may not be great, but after today - thanks for that! The hotel is pretty full (for Covid), but mostly locals.
TURKING IN TURKEY
I choose my accommodation with the check in of the flight, two days before departure. Although - even that is a risk nowadays! One rather important thing about accommodation in Turkey: book it in advance for the entire stay!!! Because there is no booking in Turkey. When you go to this app here, it doesn't work. Quite a shock for me. It is solvable if you only have accommodation for the first night. You choose through Agoda, tripadvisor, etc. But for autistic people who love the clarity of booking - stupid. I'll add - from home you choose and book the accommodation via booking - it works. Just not on the spot.
If you are going to the Riviera, I would recommend "not skimping" and choosing an all inclusive hotel. This is in fact the cheapest accommodation option. I guarantee that you will not spend a penny on food and drink. And considering the price of wine and alcohol, it really is the cheapest way to go.
If you're going to be in Istanbul for a night or two, then don't skimp either and choose accommodation in the centre, as close to the mosques as possible. I chose a hotel in an amazing location. Order and amenities 1A and all - I have never experienced such an amazing attitude to guests in my life!! Welcome drink, upgrade to the best room for the price of a basic room, bottle of wine in the room as a courtesy of the company or gifts at check out..just a dream. Also the constantly smiling and helpful staff who won't let you pass by without asking if everything is ok. The breakfast is absolute luxury and the view from the rooftop of Hagia Sophia - perfection!
ANTALYA - PAMUKKALE
Travel fatigue got to me, so I decide to spend half a day on the beach, which is across the road "in front of the house". The sun is shining, and even though the locals are walking around in down jackets, for me it feels like a tank top and shorts. The view from the beach of the snow-capped mountains is something I will remember for a long time.
Since it's almost noon, I'll have time for lunch at the hotel and then I'm on my way to Pamukkale. I have 250 km to go, so about 3 and a half hours behind the wheel. This is the most beautiful road I've ever driven. The way the snow-capped mountain peaks suddenly emerge closer and closer from the sunny almost summer Riviera is a fat experience. I enjoy it most when I'm refueling, but I also take pictures and snap photos along the way. It was 16 degrees outside when I started the trip. In the mountains at the gas station, it's 1 degree. You don't notice it in the car because it's a beautiful sunny day, but I almost froze at the gas station. In shorts :)
I arrive in Pamukkale before 5 pm, the nicest time of the day. That's when the best sunlight hits all the beauty around. I park the car, pay the parking fee and immediately afterwards learn from the gentleman who just collected me that Pamukkale closes at 5pm. Funny man :)
Well never mind, it's beautiful so I'm going to walk wherever the paths allow. Snow-covered icy hills contrasting with summer skies, all bathed in warm afternoon sun, it's absolutely mesmerizing scenery. I walk past a pond with ducks, through green grass with streams and enjoy the afternoon almost summer in Pamukkale. Sitting here on the mesas in the grass, having a glass (read PET bottle with wine topped up from the last all inclusive hotel) and enjoying this wonderful moment with all my senses, after the snowy landscape on the way here, is the best part of the whole day.
After about an hour, I go to the hotel. Even though it's almost dark, it's still pretty early. Luckily, I brought my PC, so I'm playing downloaded movies. First up is Hanka Třeštíková's Farewell to the Children, which is a gritty time-lapse I saw a year or so ago, and - like then - it evoked some pretty strange feelings in me here. Mostly thoughts about how some people's fate is...predestined. Sadly predestined. It makes me all the more aware of what an amazing life I can live. To travel, to see so many beautiful places and things, to dream of more and more adventurous places with each trip, and yet know that ...EVERYTHING WILL BE. Because the only person who can stop me from doing that or who can help me realize my dreams is me.
Since hunger is getting to me, I treat myself to the best dinner of the whole trip here at the hotel. There are only two rooms occupied in the hotel, one of which is mine. Even so, there is no shortage of impeccable service and food that is delivered on a tray to your bed when you order it. The prices are folksy.
PAMUKKALE - OILUDENIZ - KEMER
.I wake up in Pamukkale and after a delicious breakfast and check-in I head to the parking lot of this "monument". It's the weekend, and in the time of Covid, that means only one thing in Turkey - no one is allowed to leave home except tourists. I drive through a depopulated "town", which is actually an incredible village with everything that belongs to the word village. Sheds, farmhouses, junk, chickens, rabbits, dogs and cats.... Meanwhile, about 4 hotels and then a road with a car park to the ponds. This attraction has elevated the sheer hole to a place every tourist goes to see. However, I don't think anyone spends more than a night here. Actually, not even that, most people take day trips here, and it's quite possible that if they were still open after 5pm yesterday, I would have moved on to the shoreline then too. However, as fate would have it, Covid has reduced the opening hours from 8pm to 5pm. Well, I'm only finding out today that this is exactly how it was supposed to be! Whereas yesterday the sky was turquoise and the sun was the strength of summer, today it is overcast and under a cloud. Not just under a cloud - under an almost apocalyptic black cloud that inspires fear and awe. It is under such a black sky that I park and walk, accompanied by a pack of stray, but very friendly, dogs to the entrance of the grounds. It is 10 o'clock, they are just opening and I am all alone. The only one in all of Pamukkale. I mean, plus the pack of dogs and the park rangers. What an incredible experience!
In times long past (non-covid) one of the biggest tourist attractions, now a place where you walk completely alone across a snow-white travertine slope. It's just you, a few guardians of this treasure, the ducks on the lake, and a pack of local dogs who willingly and quite amicably escort you to the entrance of the travertine surface.
For 230 CZK (entrance fee) you can enjoy this white splendour from all sides and angles, as well as with your own bare feet (a must before entering the travertine). But if you read some information beforehand (like this one😉), you'll find that you can avoid walking on really cold and wet ground: thanks to disposable hotel slippers. These (as well as socks, but you will get them wet immediately) the guards will easily allow you to keep on your feet at all times. I recommend taking two so that you can change them after a while, when the first slippers get wet.
The size of this slope (translated as cotton castle in Czech) is 2700m in width and 160m in height. Pamukkale is an area of tectonic faulting where mineral springs flow to the surface. This mineral water flows down the rock to form deposits known as travertine. And that's exactly how this impressive panorama was created over many thousands of years - terraces, cascades and pools that take your breath away with their simple, pure, snow-white beauty.
More so if you manage to experience this place on a glorious sunny day, when the sky is cloudless and the sky blue, and the following day with seemingly haunting overcast skies. Personally, I find overcast skies to be the most beautiful sight. It is here that the contrast of the white travertine with the turquoise water and the black sky above is something like heaven and hell.
These terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Hieralipole excavations. This is the ruins of an ancient Roman city, which includes a large amphitheatre and necropolis. You can also visit here as part of the entrance fee. It was Pamukkale that was the "wellness" for the inhabitants of the city at that time. They had it figured out perfectly!
The limestone rock travertine is also found in the Czech Republic - in the vicinity of Beroun, in the Cikánský dolík in Slánsko, etc., but not in such an amazing form. Similar formations to those in Pamukkale can be seen in Yellowstone National Park in the USA or in Hungary.
I exit the compound on the opposite side from my car. They've got it cleverly done - I think the same thing happens to everyone. Because I'm pressed for time, I take a taxi to my car. Apparently every other visitor has to do that too.. Anyway, never mind, for a hundred it saves me at least an hour, maybe an hour and a half walking. And time is money, isn't it? I get in my Fiat and head for the coast.
The first part of the journey is to Ölüdeniz beach, which is supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Clearly, this point is not to be missed on my itinerary. I have 210 km of mountains ahead of me. I ride it for about 4 hours, because the weather has completely turned its sunny face away and after a few kilometres I was riding only in the fog I know from Reed Pond. After a while the fog was compounded by a downpour so heavy that my windscreen wipers were not enough and to make matters worse, the route turned into endless serpentines and ups and downs in them. Stopping at a petrol station and running out of the car to use the toilet - that was two minutes when I was completely drenched. Weather that wouldn't chase a dog away. Well, I don't need to mention that downpour, fog and serpentines in the mountains is the last place you want to experience your first puncture of a rental car...
I'd like to say it was a well-deserved reward, but I'd be lying :) The whole impression was spoiled by the apparently beautiful resort in the summer without Covid, now a depopulated horror with no people that looked like something out of Alfred Hitchcock. A few more birds and it's all over.
And so I drive over to the beach and get out of the car. The sky is still dark and the haze of fog also hides the beauty of this coast. However, the turquoise colour of the sea is breathtaking and so is the beautiful beach. Actually, I believe this beach is top-notch under ideal conditions. I enjoy it for a while, but then, thanks to the loss of time, I get back behind the wheel and drive on. Today's destination is Kemer and it is another 250 km /3,5h drive away. Simply - a day like a good one!
The drive to Kemer is fascinating because suddenly there are several numbers of frozen snow on the road. On top of that, it's snowing, visibility is at zero again and there's a terrible wind. This is a hell of a test of driving skills!! Along the way, I'm occasionally stopped in towns by police checking to see if the locals really only leave the house on the weekend for emergencies. There are a lot of checks, but everywhere you just pull out your passport and they let you - a tourist - continue on your way. A bit unfair, no.
I arrive in Kemer at dusk and head straight to the hotel where I'll be staying for two days. Tomorrow is reported to be sunny, so I plan to relax by the sea. It's a pretty crazy idea when 30 km away there's 20 cm of snow on the road, freezing and drizzling... But the Norwegian radar says it's 17 degrees and sunny, so I believe it.
This hotel is TOP, there are lots of amazing cats that go wherever they want. You can take them on your lap for an evening drink and reminisce about the cats back home.
This was a busy day, but made all the more so by a full day.
KEMER
Norway radar didn't lie - a day like a catalogue from Chedok right from waking up. I'll cut today short - Kemer is a divine place to relax! The sea is gorgeous, the beach is pebbly, but it suits the backdrop of mountains all around. The most famous beach of this location is Moonlight beach - minimum people and a glass of Mojito/wine on the beach guarantees the best relaxation!
Once the sun rises perpendicularly above you, you can even now get into the sea without feeling any freezing. Totally cool. I'm in shock myself, and when I think back to yesterday's snow a few dozen miles away in my swimsuit, it feels like the Matrix. This day was just a gift!
KEMER
There is a lot to see and experience in this area. For example, the DoluSu water park, one of the most extreme water parks in Turkey. There are many attractions (especially extreme water slides), swimming pools, but also a dolphinarium.
In close proximity to Kemer, two rock formations rise skyward amidst the forests and have long been linked and a destination for climbers. The Turkish name Ikiz Kayalar means "Double Mountain".
In addition, the Taurus Mountains with the peak of Tahtalı Dağı (2,366 m above sea level) are located in the vicinity of Kemer. Adjacent to the mountain range is the Olympos Beydagları National Park, which is home not only to the ancient city of Olympos, beautiful nature, but especially to the natural flames that rise directly from the ground in the Ulupinar Mountains, thanks to the natural gas seeps. The Turks call them Yanartas, but they are generally known as Chimera, a reference to Greek mythology.
There are also caves, ancient monuments and much more around Kemer. In other words, the perfect place for a week-long family holiday.
KEMER - SIDE - ANTALYA - ISTANBUL
I'll be waking up pretty early, because there's more on the schedule again today. After breakfast, I'm getting cleaned up and getting back in the car. I'm a little nervous about the text on the display that says something about 140 km and the engine. Well I don't speak Turkish, I also recall a briefing at the rental shop where the guy above one red light told me it was ok not to worry about it, so I ignore that too and drive.
Today's destination is the city of Side and then it's on to the rental car, return the car, transfer to the airport and a 6pm flight to Istanbul. It's not a short drive, it's a two hour/120km drive to Side. Of course, this does not take into account the conversion to reserve driving (80 km/h).
The journey is relaxing, even through Antalya I pass through quite fine. In Side I park for free just outside the historic centre, calculate the time left and give myself 2 hours for the city and just the transfer to the airport.
It's a beautiful city, no question about it. A million monuments all around the road to the port. Really, there are probably more ancient monuments in Turkey than in Rome. At least here in Side stopro!
I'm walking around, taking pictures and slowly walking through the centre to the harbour.
At the entrance to the historical part there is a monumental fountain - nymphaeum. It is a man-made cave, which was naturally supplied with water. It is also one of the examples of water management at that time.
The main attraction of the city is the Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century, which is interesting because its auditorium was not excavated into the hillside, but was built up in stone. For me, the most beautiful site is the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where Antony and Cleopatra are said to have met. The temple was Antony's proof of his great love for Cleopatra... he couldn't have chosen a more beautiful place to build a temple of love! It's really beautiful on that seashore!
The harbour with the lighthouse is really beautiful. The turquoise sea and the colourful fishing boats make a perfectly romantic atmosphere. I'll have a kebab and tea here, and it's at a stall with a gorgeous dog, Johnny. The husky here in warm Turkey looks...strange. I'm barely finished eating before the gentleman is asking me to get up from the table - they're not allowed to serve food other than to take away. I didn't know that and he let me eat in peace too. I wish he wouldn't - outside at a table where the only two people are me and him. Strange times these...
It's just about time to head to the car and get out - to catch my flight.
I walk to the car, sit down, turn the key and ...NOTHING. At the best of times! The info on the display talks about AdBlue and the translator jumps to something about the clutch...I can't figure this out on my own. I go to the taxi drivers nearby and they translate the information immediately. I need to put something in the tank. And I'm supposed to buy it at the gas station. They take me there, I buy the aforementioned AdBlue, and we go back to the car. They tell me where to put it and really - as soon as I fill it up, I start. It was about 40 minutes, so ...FOFR!
I'm at the rental place in about an hour, I get 50 TRY for the fluid, which is exactly what I give the owner again for a flat tire. Great, I was expecting much worse! He knows I'm in a hurry, so he fofs too and within moments we're sitting in the car heading to the airport. I know I'm in time now.
Check-in is over in moments and I board the Paegasus bound for Istanbul. The flight is almost full again.
After one hour flight Istanbul!
I get out of the airport quite quickly and there is a bus stopping in front of the hall, which goes to the centre to Taksim Square. You can pay on the bus and no HES code is needed. The journey takes an hour and a half..
I arrive at the hotel by taxi from the square, it is almost midnight.
However, I still got an amazing welcome drink and a room upgrade to the best possible room. And that's really nice!
I wake up in the morning with a view of Hagia Sophia from my balcony. Beautiful!! I take the elevator up to the roof terrace where breakfast is served and marvel even more at the beauty. Breakfast 1A! Well, after breakfast, hooray for the city. After all, I have to catch as much as I can, I only have one full day in this city.
A city of sumptuous baklava, the best salep, bookstores at every turn (damn, some local Albatros should have published my book here!! :D ) and most importantly, for Covide's time, an incredible life! It is here that I feel all the time that the world is right again. Just like it used to be..
The city itself is divided by the Bosphorus Strait into Asian and European parts. Its biggest advantage is the fact that its most interesting tourist spots lie in a relatively small area. Islamic Arabic architecture and culture are really at every turn here, especially the Turkish mosques. Istanbul's most famous landmarks include Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Tulip Mosque, Suleiman Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Dolmabahance Palace, Constantine's Column, the Jerebatan Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Hippodrome, the Galata Tower and the Valenti Aqueduct. I didn't even see a third of it, yet I rank this city, with its atmosphere with a touch of the exotic, next to Marrakech, as one of those that one should definitely see and experience. And not just once!
On the European side, the most famous district is Sultanahmet, with its distinctive Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia (in Czech, "Temple of God's Wisdom"), or, from the ground, the inconspicuous Yerebatan Sarnıcı, a basilica cistern. This underground water tank was built in the 6th century to supply drinking water to the nearby imperial palace. It holds over 80 thousand cubic meters of water. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of my trip...
The Hagia Sophia, originally a Christian temple and one of the most famous sacred buildings in the world, TODAY IS A MESSAGE... The temple was built on the site where two churches originally stood. Both buildings became the seat of the Orthodox Patriarchate until the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. The arrival of the Turks marked the end of the Byzantine Empire and the conversion of the two churches into a mosque. The latter was additionally provided with four minarets. Interestingly, Hagia Sophia became the first ever mosque in Turkey. Other similar temples were built throughout the Ottoman Empire, following its model.
The massive main dome is supported by four pillars. Each of these pillars is 18 metres high and 7.5 metres wide. The bottom floor of the museum is the main space, while the top floor is reserved for women only. The walls of the temple are covered with six kinds of marble slabs and these are firmly anchored with bronze clasps. Equally interesting is the floor of the temple itself, which is decorated with ornamental marble mosaics. The walls and vaults are covered with mosaics of angels and saints.
Admission to Hagia Sophia is free, but you must cover your hair, shoulders and at least your knees (just throw a sweatshirt over your head) and of course take off your shoes.
The Blue Mosque (the official name of the Blue Mosque is Sultan Ahmet Camii after its founder Sultan Ahmed) is in the Sultanahmet district, where most tourists go when exploring Istanbul's main sights. It is the most important mosque in Istanbul. Not only is it huge, but it has six minarets, the largest number of minarets of any mosque. The interior walls of the mosque are coloured blue, hence its name. Sultan Ahmed believed that the ubiquitous blue colour would help the faithful in their conversion to God. The tiles come from Iznik and are typically decorated with motifs of lilies, carnations, tulips and roses. There are twenty thousand of these unique tiles and they are still bright and shining. The motifs are always floral or abstract; Islam forbids the depiction of figures. The building is supported by four pillars, called elephant feet. If you raise your head in the middle, you will see that the dome of the mosque forms a four-leaf clover, the corners are also decorated with half domes and the interior is decorated with balconies on three sides. The interior is illuminated by countless small glass windows as well as a chandelier hanging from a huge chain from the ceiling.
Even here, admission is free, and under the same veiled and cramped conditions as Hagia Sophia.
The Galata Bridge spans the mouth of the Golden Horn. The upper level is primarily used for transport, while the lower level consists of a promenade lined with shops and restaurants.
Grand Bazaar is one of the world's largest indoor marketplaces. There are more than 58 indoor arcades and over 1200 shops. Around 250,000 to 400,000 tourists visit it daily (unless it is Covid). The market covers an area of 45 hectares and employs about 20,000 people.
If you want to get a taste of the market atmosphere but prefer a quieter pace, try Sahaflar Carsisi (literally "book market"), where, in addition to a wide range of books from around the world, instead of crowds of tourists, you'll mainly meet locals.
Well, the best part of the whole day for me is the boat ride on the Bosphorus, where you can enjoy all the beauty of the Asian and European side of Istanbul with seagulls overhead and the water below you, which your boat crosses. One hour cruise for 260 CZK. Right here, perhaps have a local tea or feed the leftover pastries to the seagulls. An experience beyond experiences.
Well, the absolute best end of the day is a walk through the night centre and a kebab dinner in a local restaurant. Nice at the table like a man, with freshly squeezed orange juice (secretly spiked with vodka). A dinner that you enjoy to the last bite, even if you're bursting at the seams, and a time that passes like water, even if it was quite long. Sitting in that garden, enjoying the view of Istanbul at night, you realise that this moment will be the one you will always remember first when you think of this metropolis.
ISTANBUL - ANTALYA LARA
Morning wake-up call, breakfast, transfer to the airport and there decision.
Instead of flying home, I'm flying back south! On the day of my departure, the Norwegian radar predicts clear skies for the next 5 days with temperatures of 20 degrees, which translates to a tropical summer, while at home it is a real Ladovian winter. And not only that! Considering the covid situation in the Czech Republic and the fact that the next trip is in the stars, I change international departures to domestic departures, buy a flight from Istanbul back to the Turkish Riviera with Paegasus and change the story. First time without a return ticket home. I'll change my mind - depending on the weather and the colour of my skin :)
So instead of getting on the plane at 12 o'clock for Vienna, I board the plane at 13 o'clock for Antalya. After an hour of flight I land and transfer to the city centre with the help of a helpful local tram worker for free.
The reason is that I can't get through the tram turnstile without the HES code. He sees my futile efforts, explains that I really can't do it without HES, and then says I'm having a lucky day. His shift is over and he's going downtown. So he pulled me through the turnstile to and from the tram and showed me the historic city centre. After about an hour of sightseeing, I get into a taxi and get a ride to the hotel I booked, where I will be resting and touching up my paint for the next 5 days.
I have no itinerary for these days. I don't plan any travelling, just sun, sea, sleep and good food. Well, what I set out to do, I did.
Aside from wandering around, the only place I visited during this time that is worth mentioning is the waterfalls falling into the sea about 5 km from my hotel. I walked there and back, and that alone was an experience.
The scenery from the cliffs was breathtaking and I had to stop every now and then to take pictures. I just couldn't do it any other way. Plus, the whole cliff to Düden Falls is one big park where locals sit and enjoy the beautiful sunny afternoon. In a time of pandemic - an incredible spectacle. Families, lovers, singles... Lots of people smiling, eating all kinds of goodies, sipping Turkish tea from a thermos and enjoying the beautiful day.
The Düden Falls are the aforementioned destination and are definitely a unique natural phenomenon worth seeing. Entrance to the area is not possible during Covid.
Otherwise, however, there is a fee and according to sources, "... it is lined with exotic palm trees. The tour itself then takes you around the watercourse and waterfalls on marked trails. At several points you can rest on a bench and just enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of this little natural wonder. The whole complex is designed as a park and botanical garden, where you can also picnic to the sound of the wild water. Tables and benches are also available. Probably the most interesting and exciting experience besides watching and listening to the unruly spring is the walk behind the cascade itself, which gives you a completely different point of view. Water enters the foothill landscape from the Taurus Mountains, which form the Antalya landscape and where several rivers and streams - including the Düden River - also originate. It falls from a cliff at the same place, from a height of 15 metres and a width of 20 metres. In the course of its long course, however, the strong water has also managed to make its way right through the rock mass, and so it penetrates several times into the mountain depths, from which it rises again to the surface of the earth, eventually to continue on the ground in the form of a clear stream. Due to the rich mineralisation, stalactites grow in some of the caves where the water enters and volcanic minerals form the riverbed itself. In addition, other smaller streams and brooks flow in from the surrounding overgrown hills, which also form various forms of small waterfalls and waterfalls in places."
Eventually the current of water rushes up to the cliff, from which the water falls unstoppably into the depths of the Mediterranean in all its mighty force. This is an experience that even Covid can't take away! It is the view from the sea surface or from the cliff from which the water current cuts the sea surface that is the scenery worth all the money! Even more so when it's drenched by the setting sun.
On my last day, my alarm woke me up at 5am. The taxi from the hotel to the airport takes 20 minutes and costs 240 CZK. The check-in is faster than I expected, so I still connect to the café's wifi and surf the net for a while after buying a coffee and getting a PIN code.
The Antalya - Istanbul flight is again a leisurely hour, but then I have a lot of work to do to make the 50-minute connection in Istanbul from the domestic departures section to the international departures section. I manage, but I recommend everyone to give themselves a little more time to make the connection.
The flight to Vienna was complicated by a passenger getting up during the descent - just before the plane hit the ground. I will long remember the shouting of the cabin crew at the lady in the scarf, who was handing her suitcase a little prematurely. As will the resuscitation of the lady two aisles ahead of me a few seconds later. Well done. I wish it hadn't - on the wings of a pegasus... But it wasn't the only miracle on board! I also had a three-seater all to myself on a completely full plane :)
Transport to the Czech Republic by train was uneventful, only the Ladov winter, reaching 10 degrees below zero, was a bit of a massacre. A temperature difference of 30 degrees is nothing for me! It's a good thing they have that Prosecco at the airport for €2.9.
Turkey is a country for which even 12 days is not enough. I'll definitely go back and try using domestic flights for a much more detailed itinerary. I can only recommend Turkey to everyone, even now in the Covid era. Because even if it's not Zanzibar or the Maldives, and even if you do wear a veil, you still get a real break from it.
The best part of this trip for me will always be the fact that it WAS. Even after 145 years (not mine!! but the ones between heaven and earth..), as flight memory recently calculated, no flight is ordinary for me. Each one is Something Something, I have a light sleepless night before each one and a great anticipation of all that lies ahead. For with each new journey, I am more and more aware that travel is not a given and that each trip I take may be my last for a long time. I remember one day 11 months ago. I was sitting on the beach in Cahuita, waiting for my repatriation flight home, while reading headlines that we might not see the border for two years. I remember exactly the feelings I had at the time. It was the need to return home from the restless waves of the Caribbean - where my T, the THING I always come home for (Dad, That Miki, Mine), was always there, but at the same time I felt like not getting on board. To escape the impossibility of travel, for me - the impossibility of really living. Sophie's Choice was playing out inside me, and I really wasn't sure if I had made the right choice as I boarded the plane to Halifax - Reykjavik - Prague. Then everything went wrong, as it happens in life, and my "Covid year" was not only not as tragic as it looked at its starting line, but I flew and travelled the most in my life. It's just that everything is different now and no one knows what tomorrow will bring. We are tired of restrictions, limits, but also scared of every new covid wave and mutation. And people. By the way we forgot to sweep in front of our own doorstep, but quietly sweep 5 times a day in front of our neighbor's. And make it fly! I won't lie - I'm not immortal either, even I get scared sometimes. Sometimes I'm afraid of getting the last of Athens canceled, sometimes I'm afraid of death. Not mine, but the ones I love. Yeah, I'm even afraid of that Covid sometimes. Even though I still think the same thing I wrote a long time ago (it would be a real bummer if I just got shot by an assassin somewhere, swept away by a tsunami, or stung by a malaria-infected mosquito...), the possibility of not contagion, but fatality, is always there. I'm not a "Covid denier", the statistics of this virus make the word "possibility" even a "probability", it's just that whenever the oppression, fear and the desire to barricade myself at home and voluntarily set my arm and my immunity to something I don't trust a fingernail, I remember NI. A girl a few years older than me whose funeral I attended a few months ago. It wasn't Covid, it was "regular" cancer. I've thought about her almost daily for the last 9 months, and especially on every trip. I think of her threadbare knickers that she gave me with the intention of taking them somewhere she will never go again. I wore those knickers on Teide and walked out with them above the clouds. I've carried them with me often since then, and every time I put them on my feet I realize how lucky I am. Not that they fit my size, but that I "can do anything". That I have my life, what's left of it, firmly in my hands. And that, I'm sorry to anyone who's pissed off, I'm really not going to give that up. Maybe experience Turkey a second time. Covid notwithstanding. And not only Covid, also to all those who have forgotten (or worse - never experienced) what it's like to travel. I certainly haven't forgotten, won't forget, and won't pretend that a year (we're finishing first, but there will be two, three..?) can be endured without these feelings. Because it can't, and more importantly, no one knows how much time "to waste" each of us has left. And a year, sorry, like, that's really more than I can and want to give my and Ilka's sneakers off.
So what will I remember most?
Obviously Istanbul, which has enthralled me with the atmosphere of the city and the incredibly un-civil LIFE in every alleyway. Also, the best pistachio baklava cupcake and a goodness called salep, which I drank as quickly as I drank a cup of cocoa as a child. The boat ride, where I just sat for a while with a contented ear-to-ear grin on my face, was the best time I've had in this metropolis as I explored it for the first time. Staying there made me realize how amazing it is to be able to motivate your people, your team and how when someone can do that - miracles happen. Because the work of every single person in the hotel where I stayed for two nights was truly a miracle for me.
The beach in Kemer, where you not only get into the sea but experience the most beautiful relaxation by the sea waves that I can imagine, I would include this in any Riviera itinerary.
And of course the people-pleasing Pamukkale, the absolute ceiling of the trip, where I could stomp alone on the travertine slopes and realize the old familiar "thank you!" Taking in the contrast of two days, two different skies - sunny and freezing black, and realizing that both have their own magic and both just belong together. Just like good and evil, just like black and white, just like bad wine and Sprite (Turkish Palava). Life is not all about perfect days and moments, and that's what this trip convinced me of the most. That you can puncture your bike at the worst possible moment in the worst possible place or not start when you need to, but if you can still put a smile on your face and handle the situation with calmness (because nothing else will help you anyway), you not only win, but also have a recipe for "all the riches in the world": don't shit yourself even in the worst moments and keep moving forward. Even 350 km at an average speed of 120 km on reserve with a range of 80 km!
...and better yet - feel free to switch from lovecost to business class sometime along that journey of a lifetime, because even though it's an adrenaline rush, it's damn well worth it!
itinerary by cestujizakacku
A little bit of Asia, a little bit of Europe, just a mixture of spices that will get you and bring a breath of exoticism back into your life in these covid times... Baklava, Salep, beautiful beaches with the sea that you can get into in winter and look out at the snow-capped mountains. Istanbul, the Orient in the palm of your hand. Kemer, Side, Antalya - the Riviera as it should be. And Pamukkale, where you're the only person on a white travertine slope. Turkey, my new love.
Why Turkey? I've been to Turkey once, about five years ago. You'd be surprised - on a sightseeing tour with a travel agency! I bought Turkey for 7 nights for an unbelievable price, which included a return ticket from Prague, the services of a guide for the whole week, and accommodation in four-star hotels with breakfast. The price also included a bus that drove us all over the Turkish interior. And the price? 3900 CZK per person per day. This event was for seniors 50+.. As I found out later - the Turkish government subsidizes stays for this group of people. The reason is clear, the tour guides of the travel agencies go around with them to all the local vendors and producers and try to sell them as many local goods as possible. So our expedition also visited a pottery workshop, a carpet factory, a perfume factory, a leather goods factory... Anyway, no one forced the younger ones (and there were five of us from the whole trip) to buy - it was clear that we were only taking this as an excursion, not as a shopping opportunity. That made us enjoy this trip all the more. There were two possible tours at the time. One was going to Cappadocia and the other to Pamukkale. I chose to go to Cappadocia, which is undoubtedly the main jewel of Turkey. But I knew even then that I would not be the last person to visit this country. I had to see Pamukkale too. And now the time is right! COVID SITUATION - OPERATIONS IN TURKEY A PCR negative test no older than 72 hours is required before traveling to Turkey. This is to be shown at boarding in Vienna and without it you will not be allowed on board. You do not need it anywhere else in Turkey (either on arrival or on domestic flights). Locals must have the so-called HES code, which can only be obtained via a Turkish SIM. I wasn't planning on getting either a SIM or data, hence the HES. The HES code is only necessary from a tourist's perspective when moving by public transport (without the code you don't get on any means of transport that has a turnstile leading to it - tram, train, metro). However, if you plan to use domestic flights, car rental and taxi, even the bus from Istanbul airport to the city centre, you really don't need the HES code. Not even for accommodation, as mentioned in many places. In Turkey it is compulsory to wear a veil everywhere, under a fine of 3000 TRY (apart from Zanzibar where in the world not, right?). So 80% of people wear one, but the number drops rapidly wherever you are with someone further out of public areas. Hotels, beaches, parks... Here the veil is immediately shed, both by foreigners and locals. As soon as you take a few steps off a busy road and into a park, there are easily a hundred people sitting on a grassy area without veils, just like the good old days at a fancy summer festival. Educative stickers of premises (hotels, restaurants, airports, public transport...) - in the maximum level. Covid pictograms are not missing in any shop window, on any entrance door, on floors, on tables... The 11 commandments here have replaced the 14 covid commandments - you will find this info sign at every turn. Surface disinfection here is as automatic as cashing in a customer after a purchase. The disposable packaging in hotel restaurants is reaching absurd levels. Every cutlery in a paper bag, everything disposable. But what I was very pleasantly surprised by - minimum plastic and plastic, everything in paper packaging. The shops are banned from selling alcohol on Saturdays and Sundays!! I don't know if this is Covid related or normal here, either way I consider it important information. If you don't solve it with an all inclusive hotel, don't buy alcohol in time for the weekend. The locals have a curfew all weekend, that is Sat and Sun. However, this ban does not apply to tourists. In real life, for example, police checks are done on the roads to stop every car. Tourists have to prove not only their identity but also the reason for their trip. Once they stop you and you show your passport, they immediately wish you a good day and let you drive on. The monuments are more or less open in Turkey, but there are usually reduced opening hours. Pamukkale, for example, had opening hours of 10am - 8pm according to the website, in reality they closed at 5pm. The overall mood across Turkey is totally relaxed. On a boat in Istanbul, for example, you indicate that you don't want to clean up the empty tea cup in front of you and the attendant immediately smiles and lets you contemplate the empty cup further. No cover.
BRNO - VÍDEŇ - ISTANBUL ANTALYA
The journey begins by boarding the train Brno - Vienna. I have to say that sneaking from lovcost to business class was a masterpiece right from the start! And still approved by the cabin crew. It is because of this that this train ride will always be an unforgettable experience for me, one that comes to mind every time I hear the word train. It was simply a spectacular start to a spectacular trip!
At the train station in Vienna, I jump on the train to the airport, where I walk into the local airport Spar in less than 20 minutes.
I find my favourite departure/arrival Prosecco at the even more popular (unchanged) price of €2.9 on my shelf. For I know full well that the lounge is under Covid, or restrictions associated with it, and this is the last chance to enjoy the airport bubbly.
The lounge, of course, passed and "did not disappoint". Or rather, it failed exactly as I predicted. A paper bag with a banana, half a piece of toast with cottage cheese and a cabbage leaf, a fruko and a biscuit - that's the current Vienna Airport lounge.
The negative PCR test, which wasn't needed when I bought my tickets to Turkey but was on the day of departure, I only show once the whole time, and that to the really superficial gaze of the lady at the counter who prints my ticket against my passport. That's all. The worst spent 1 500 CZK of this trip.
The flight to Istanbul passed quietly and quite quickly. I had no idea how much time to leave for the connection to the domestic flight to Antalya. Only now I can say that an hour is plenty. I left 3 hours to allow for a reserve, so I cut my time short in the Istanbul lounge. There's a cloud of food, all honestly disposably packaged, but not a drop of alcohol. I'm beginning to think Covid is already in Turkey...
Istanbul Airport: has been open since April 2019 and the entire operation of the original airport has been moved here. The airport aspires to be the largest airport in the world and is located about 50 km from the city centre.
Istanbul airport atmosphere? It's as if Covid didn't exist. A million people, a buzz, a murmur. Check-in was a rush, I didn't take my cosmetics or laptop out of my bag while scanning - no one even demanded it. There is a wifi point at the Istanbul airport for international departures, where you get a pin code after presenting your passport and ticket, which gives you 30 minutes of wifi for free. If you are waiting at the gate, find a cafe with a wifi logo and if you buy at least a coffee there, you will get the wifi password from the staff as well. The lounge offers a decent range of food, lots of local goodies, coffee, tea, soft drinks, fruit salads, vegetable salads, pasta salads, desserts ... but zero alcohol. So it's a bummer.
Currently, the fastest service to downtown is provided by HavaIst buses. From the airport, there are 5 lines operating to the whole of Istanbul, the most popular of which is logically the connection to central Taksim Square. During the day they leave every 15 minutes. The whole journey to the centre takes around 90 minutes depending on traffic. A ticket to Taksim Square (and other destinations within the centre) costs 18 TRY and can be bought directly from the bus. You do not need a HES code.
There is an "Istanbulkart", a card for public transport in Istanbul. You can buy this for 10 TRY from a kiosk or machine in the arrivals hall or at the bus stop, and you can pay with card or cash. The card can be loaded with any amount of money and can be used on the metro, buses, trams and public transport. However, I have not used this card.
I'm flying Istanbul - Antalya with a local low-cost airline Paegasus. The flight is practically full, the journey is an hour long and the landing is right on time. For me, a big compliment to this company.
At the airport, I wait for about 30 minutes for my reserved car. A word of caution for anyone planning to do the same: once you leave the airport hall, you can't get back into the airport hall (without a ticket, even in a light Turkish rain). The gentleman from the rental car company a few km away from the airport arrives about half an hour late, which I cut short by unsuccessfully feeding the local cats. But the toast and cheese from the Viennese lounge is not good enough for them.
Antalya Airport: is the most important air port on Turkey's Mediterranean coast. It lies about 8 km from Antalya, 40 km from Kemer and 110 km from Alanya. There are two international terminals and one domestic terminal in operation, which are at their peak during the summer.
The airport is accessible by bus and tram from the centre, but be warned that the tram only stops at Terminal 1 and does not run to Terminal 2, 1km away. Without an HES code, you will now not be able to get on the tram.
Bus 600 connects both terminals with the city centre and Otogar bus station, where you can already transfer to any bus in the region - see antalyaulasim.com.tr for more information. Bus 800 connects both terminals with the Lara district and virtually the entire city's coastline.
A taxi from the airport to the centre or to the Lara coast costs 80 TRY.
The transfer to AYK Car Rental is quick, and the red Fiat that took me there already stays for the price of 70 EUR/5 days. Diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey and I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road.
TRAVEL IN TURKEY
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road. Renting a car for 5 days is 70 EUR, diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey, I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
After flying into Istanbul, two days in this city using mainly my own legs and one cruise on the Bosphorus. By the way, one of the most common cars in Istanbul is our Czech-made Koda.
After moving on to the relaxing part of the journey back to the Riviera, it was just the resort, the sea and the beach - so no use of transport.
And then it's about 30 minutes drive through Antalya at night to the hotel, where I can still use the all inclusive services for the last hour...
...and that I am!!!
Sealife Family Resort Hotel
The local Mojito and wine with Sprite (read Turkish Palava) may not be great, but after today - thanks for that! The hotel is pretty full (for Covid), but mostly locals.
TURKING IN TURKEY
I choose my accommodation with the check in of the flight, two days before departure. Although - even that is a risk nowadays! One rather important thing about accommodation in Turkey: book it in advance for the entire stay!!! Because there is no booking in Turkey. When you go to this app here, it doesn't work. Quite a shock for me. It is solvable if you only have accommodation for the first night. You choose through Agoda, tripadvisor, etc. But for autistic people who love the clarity of booking - stupid. I'll add - from home you choose and book the accommodation via booking - it works. Just not on the spot.
If you are going to the Riviera, I would recommend "not skimping" and choosing an all inclusive hotel. This is in fact the cheapest accommodation option. I guarantee that you will not spend a penny on food and drink. And considering the price of wine and alcohol, it really is the cheapest way to go.
If you're going to be in Istanbul for a night or two, then don't skimp either and choose accommodation in the centre, as close to the mosques as possible. I chose a hotel in an amazing location. Order and amenities 1A and all - I have never experienced such an amazing attitude to guests in my life!! Welcome drink, upgrade to the best room for the price of a basic room, bottle of wine in the room as a courtesy of the company or gifts at check out..just a dream. Also the constantly smiling and helpful staff who won't let you pass by without asking if everything is ok. The breakfast is absolute luxury and the view from the rooftop of Hagia Sophia - perfection!
ANTALYA - PAMUKKALE
Travel fatigue got to me, so I decide to spend half a day on the beach, which is across the road "in front of the house". The sun is shining, and even though the locals are walking around in down jackets, for me it feels like a tank top and shorts. The view from the beach of the snow-capped mountains is something I will remember for a long time.
Since it's almost noon, I'll have time for lunch at the hotel and then I'm on my way to Pamukkale. I have 250 km to go, so about 3 and a half hours behind the wheel. This is the most beautiful road I've ever driven. The way the snow-capped mountain peaks suddenly emerge closer and closer from the sunny almost summer Riviera is a fat experience. I enjoy it most when I'm refueling, but I also take pictures and snap photos along the way. It was 16 degrees outside when I started the trip. In the mountains at the gas station, it's 1 degree. You don't notice it in the car because it's a beautiful sunny day, but I almost froze at the gas station. In shorts :)
I arrive in Pamukkale before 5 pm, the nicest time of the day. That's when the best sunlight hits all the beauty around. I park the car, pay the parking fee and immediately afterwards learn from the gentleman who just collected me that Pamukkale closes at 5pm. Funny man :)
Well never mind, it's beautiful so I'm going to walk wherever the paths allow. Snow-covered icy hills contrasting with summer skies, all bathed in warm afternoon sun, it's absolutely mesmerizing scenery. I walk past a pond with ducks, through green grass with streams and enjoy the afternoon almost summer in Pamukkale. Sitting here on the mesas in the grass, having a glass (read PET bottle with wine topped up from the last all inclusive hotel) and enjoying this wonderful moment with all my senses, after the snowy landscape on the way here, is the best part of the whole day.
After about an hour, I go to the hotel. Even though it's almost dark, it's still pretty early. Luckily, I brought my PC, so I'm playing downloaded movies. First up is Hanka Třeštíková's Farewell to the Children, which is a gritty time-lapse I saw a year or so ago, and - like then - it evoked some pretty strange feelings in me here. Mostly thoughts about how some people's fate is...predestined. Sadly predestined. It makes me all the more aware of what an amazing life I can live. To travel, to see so many beautiful places and things, to dream of more and more adventurous places with each trip, and yet know that ...EVERYTHING WILL BE. Because the only person who can stop me from doing that or who can help me realize my dreams is me.
Since hunger is getting to me, I treat myself to the best dinner of the whole trip here at the hotel. There are only two rooms occupied in the hotel, one of which is mine. Even so, there is no shortage of impeccable service and food that is delivered on a tray to your bed when you order it. The prices are folksy.
PAMUKKALE - OILUDENIZ - KEMER
.I wake up in Pamukkale and after a delicious breakfast and check-in I head to the parking lot of this "monument". It's the weekend, and in the time of Covid, that means only one thing in Turkey - no one is allowed to leave home except tourists. I drive through a depopulated "town", which is actually an incredible village with everything that belongs to the word village. Sheds, farmhouses, junk, chickens, rabbits, dogs and cats.... Meanwhile, about 4 hotels and then a road with a car park to the ponds. This attraction has elevated the sheer hole to a place every tourist goes to see. However, I don't think anyone spends more than a night here. Actually, not even that, most people take day trips here, and it's quite possible that if they were still open after 5pm yesterday, I would have moved on to the shoreline then too. However, as fate would have it, Covid has reduced the opening hours from 8pm to 5pm. Well, I'm only finding out today that this is exactly how it was supposed to be! Whereas yesterday the sky was turquoise and the sun was the strength of summer, today it is overcast and under a cloud. Not just under a cloud - under an almost apocalyptic black cloud that inspires fear and awe. It is under such a black sky that I park and walk, accompanied by a pack of stray, but very friendly, dogs to the entrance of the grounds. It is 10 o'clock, they are just opening and I am all alone. The only one in all of Pamukkale. I mean, plus the pack of dogs and the park rangers. What an incredible experience!
In times long past (non-covid) one of the biggest tourist attractions, now a place where you walk completely alone across a snow-white travertine slope. It's just you, a few guardians of this treasure, the ducks on the lake, and a pack of local dogs who willingly and quite amicably escort you to the entrance of the travertine surface.
For 230 CZK (entrance fee) you can enjoy this white splendour from all sides and angles, as well as with your own bare feet (a must before entering the travertine). But if you read some information beforehand (like this one😉), you'll find that you can avoid walking on really cold and wet ground: thanks to disposable hotel slippers. These (as well as socks, but you will get them wet immediately) the guards will easily allow you to keep on your feet at all times. I recommend taking two so that you can change them after a while, when the first slippers get wet.
The size of this slope (translated as cotton castle in Czech) is 2700m in width and 160m in height. Pamukkale is an area of tectonic faulting where mineral springs flow to the surface. This mineral water flows down the rock to form deposits known as travertine. And that's exactly how this impressive panorama was created over many thousands of years - terraces, cascades and pools that take your breath away with their simple, pure, snow-white beauty.
More so if you manage to experience this place on a glorious sunny day, when the sky is cloudless and the sky blue, and the following day with seemingly haunting overcast skies. Personally, I find overcast skies to be the most beautiful sight. It is here that the contrast of the white travertine with the turquoise water and the black sky above is something like heaven and hell.
These terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Hieralipole excavations. This is the ruins of an ancient Roman city, which includes a large amphitheatre and necropolis. You can also visit here as part of the entrance fee. It was Pamukkale that was the "wellness" for the inhabitants of the city at that time. They had it figured out perfectly!
The limestone rock travertine is also found in the Czech Republic - in the vicinity of Beroun, in the Cikánský dolík in Slánsko, etc., but not in such an amazing form. Similar formations to those in Pamukkale can be seen in Yellowstone National Park in the USA or in Hungary.
I exit the compound on the opposite side from my car. They've got it cleverly done - I think the same thing happens to everyone. Because I'm pressed for time, I take a taxi to my car. Apparently every other visitor has to do that too.. Anyway, never mind, for a hundred it saves me at least an hour, maybe an hour and a half walking. And time is money, isn't it? I get in my Fiat and head for the coast.
The first part of the journey is to Ölüdeniz beach, which is supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Clearly, this point is not to be missed on my itinerary. I have 210 km of mountains ahead of me. I ride it for about 4 hours, because the weather has completely turned its sunny face away and after a few kilometres I was riding only in the fog I know from Reed Pond. After a while the fog was compounded by a downpour so heavy that my windscreen wipers were not enough and to make matters worse, the route turned into endless serpentines and ups and downs in them. Stopping at a petrol station and running out of the car to use the toilet - that was two minutes when I was completely drenched. Weather that wouldn't chase a dog away. Well, I don't need to mention that downpour, fog and serpentines in the mountains is the last place you want to experience your first puncture of a rental car...
I'd like to say it was a well-deserved reward, but I'd be lying :) The whole impression was spoiled by the apparently beautiful resort in the summer without Covid, now a depopulated horror with no people that looked like something out of Alfred Hitchcock. A few more birds and it's all over.
And so I drive over to the beach and get out of the car. The sky is still dark and the haze of fog also hides the beauty of this coast. However, the turquoise colour of the sea is breathtaking and so is the beautiful beach. Actually, I believe this beach is top-notch under ideal conditions. I enjoy it for a while, but then, thanks to the loss of time, I get back behind the wheel and drive on. Today's destination is Kemer and it is another 250 km /3,5h drive away. Simply - a day like a good one!
The drive to Kemer is fascinating because suddenly there are several numbers of frozen snow on the road. On top of that, it's snowing, visibility is at zero again and there's a terrible wind. This is a hell of a test of driving skills!! Along the way, I'm occasionally stopped in towns by police checking to see if the locals really only leave the house on the weekend for emergencies. There are a lot of checks, but everywhere you just pull out your passport and they let you - a tourist - continue on your way. A bit unfair, no.
I arrive in Kemer at dusk and head straight to the hotel where I'll be staying for two days. Tomorrow is reported to be sunny, so I plan to relax by the sea. It's a pretty crazy idea when 30 km away there's 20 cm of snow on the road, freezing and drizzling... But the Norwegian radar says it's 17 degrees and sunny, so I believe it.
This hotel is TOP, there are lots of amazing cats that go wherever they want. You can take them on your lap for an evening drink and reminisce about the cats back home.
This was a busy day, but made all the more so by a full day.
KEMER
Norway radar didn't lie - a day like a catalogue from Chedok right from waking up. I'll cut today short - Kemer is a divine place to relax! The sea is gorgeous, the beach is pebbly, but it suits the backdrop of mountains all around. The most famous beach of this location is Moonlight beach - minimum people and a glass of Mojito/wine on the beach guarantees the best relaxation!
Once the sun rises perpendicularly above you, you can even now get into the sea without feeling any freezing. Totally cool. I'm in shock myself, and when I think back to yesterday's snow a few dozen miles away in my swimsuit, it feels like the Matrix. This day was just a gift!
KEMER
There is a lot to see and experience in this area. For example, the DoluSu water park, one of the most extreme water parks in Turkey. There are many attractions (especially extreme water slides), swimming pools, but also a dolphinarium.
In close proximity to Kemer, two rock formations rise skyward amidst the forests and have long been linked and a destination for climbers. The Turkish name Ikiz Kayalar means "Double Mountain".
In addition, the Taurus Mountains with the peak of Tahtalı Dağı (2,366 m above sea level) are located in the vicinity of Kemer. Adjacent to the mountain range is the Olympos Beydagları National Park, which is home not only to the ancient city of Olympos, beautiful nature, but especially to the natural flames that rise directly from the ground in the Ulupinar Mountains, thanks to the natural gas seeps. The Turks call them Yanartas, but they are generally known as Chimera, a reference to Greek mythology.
There are also caves, ancient monuments and much more around Kemer. In other words, the perfect place for a week-long family holiday.
KEMER - SIDE - ANTALYA - ISTANBUL
I'll be waking up pretty early, because there's more on the schedule again today. After breakfast, I'm getting cleaned up and getting back in the car. I'm a little nervous about the text on the display that says something about 140 km and the engine. Well I don't speak Turkish, I also recall a briefing at the rental shop where the guy above one red light told me it was ok not to worry about it, so I ignore that too and drive.
Today's destination is the city of Side and then it's on to the rental car, return the car, transfer to the airport and a 6pm flight to Istanbul. It's not a short drive, it's a two hour/120km drive to Side. Of course, this does not take into account the conversion to reserve driving (80 km/h).
The journey is relaxing, even through Antalya I pass through quite fine. In Side I park for free just outside the historic centre, calculate the time left and give myself 2 hours for the city and just the transfer to the airport.
It's a beautiful city, no question about it. A million monuments all around the road to the port. Really, there are probably more ancient monuments in Turkey than in Rome. At least here in Side stopro!
I'm walking around, taking pictures and slowly walking through the centre to the harbour.
At the entrance to the historical part there is a monumental fountain - nymphaeum. It is a man-made cave, which was naturally supplied with water. It is also one of the examples of water management at that time.
The main attraction of the city is the Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century, which is interesting because its auditorium was not excavated into the hillside, but was built up in stone. For me, the most beautiful site is the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where Antony and Cleopatra are said to have met. The temple was Antony's proof of his great love for Cleopatra... he couldn't have chosen a more beautiful place to build a temple of love! It's really beautiful on that seashore!
The harbour with the lighthouse is really beautiful. The turquoise sea and the colourful fishing boats make a perfectly romantic atmosphere. I'll have a kebab and tea here, and it's at a stall with a gorgeous dog, Johnny. The husky here in warm Turkey looks...strange. I'm barely finished eating before the gentleman is asking me to get up from the table - they're not allowed to serve food other than to take away. I didn't know that and he let me eat in peace too. I wish he wouldn't - outside at a table where the only two people are me and him. Strange times these...
It's just about time to head to the car and get out - to catch my flight.
I walk to the car, sit down, turn the key and ...NOTHING. At the best of times! The info on the display talks about AdBlue and the translator jumps to something about the clutch...I can't figure this out on my own. I go to the taxi drivers nearby and they translate the information immediately. I need to put something in the tank. And I'm supposed to buy it at the gas station. They take me there, I buy the aforementioned AdBlue, and we go back to the car. They tell me where to put it and really - as soon as I fill it up, I start. It was about 40 minutes, so ...FOFR!
I'm at the rental place in about an hour, I get 50 TRY for the fluid, which is exactly what I give the owner again for a flat tire. Great, I was expecting much worse! He knows I'm in a hurry, so he fofs too and within moments we're sitting in the car heading to the airport. I know I'm in time now.
Check-in is over in moments and I board the Paegasus bound for Istanbul. The flight is almost full again.
After one hour flight Istanbul!
I get out of the airport quite quickly and there is a bus stopping in front of the hall, which goes to the centre to Taksim Square. You can pay on the bus and no HES code is needed. The journey takes an hour and a half..
I arrive at the hotel by taxi from the square, it is almost midnight.
However, I still got an amazing welcome drink and a room upgrade to the best possible room. And that's really nice!
I wake up in the morning with a view of Hagia Sophia from my balcony. Beautiful!! I take the elevator up to the roof terrace where breakfast is served and marvel even more at the beauty. Breakfast 1A! Well, after breakfast, hooray for the city. After all, I have to catch as much as I can, I only have one full day in this city.
A city of sumptuous baklava, the best salep, bookstores at every turn (damn, some local Albatros should have published my book here!! :D ) and most importantly, for Covide's time, an incredible life! It is here that I feel all the time that the world is right again. Just like it used to be..
The city itself is divided by the Bosphorus Strait into Asian and European parts. Its biggest advantage is the fact that its most interesting tourist spots lie in a relatively small area. Islamic Arabic architecture and culture are really at every turn here, especially the Turkish mosques. Istanbul's most famous landmarks include Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Tulip Mosque, Suleiman Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Dolmabahance Palace, Constantine's Column, the Jerebatan Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Hippodrome, the Galata Tower and the Valenti Aqueduct. I didn't even see a third of it, yet I rank this city, with its atmosphere with a touch of the exotic, next to Marrakech, as one of those that one should definitely see and experience. And not just once!
On the European side, the most famous district is Sultanahmet, with its distinctive Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia (in Czech, "Temple of God's Wisdom"), or, from the ground, the inconspicuous Yerebatan Sarnıcı, a basilica cistern. This underground water tank was built in the 6th century to supply drinking water to the nearby imperial palace. It holds over 80 thousand cubic meters of water. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of my trip...
The Hagia Sophia, originally a Christian temple and one of the most famous sacred buildings in the world, TODAY IS A MESSAGE... The temple was built on the site where two churches originally stood. Both buildings became the seat of the Orthodox Patriarchate until the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. The arrival of the Turks marked the end of the Byzantine Empire and the conversion of the two churches into a mosque. The latter was additionally provided with four minarets. Interestingly, Hagia Sophia became the first ever mosque in Turkey. Other similar temples were built throughout the Ottoman Empire, following its model.
The massive main dome is supported by four pillars. Each of these pillars is 18 metres high and 7.5 metres wide. The bottom floor of the museum is the main space, while the top floor is reserved for women only. The walls of the temple are covered with six kinds of marble slabs and these are firmly anchored with bronze clasps. Equally interesting is the floor of the temple itself, which is decorated with ornamental marble mosaics. The walls and vaults are covered with mosaics of angels and saints.
Admission to Hagia Sophia is free, but you must cover your hair, shoulders and at least your knees (just throw a sweatshirt over your head) and of course take off your shoes.
The Blue Mosque (the official name of the Blue Mosque is Sultan Ahmet Camii after its founder Sultan Ahmed) is in the Sultanahmet district, where most tourists go when exploring Istanbul's main sights. It is the most important mosque in Istanbul. Not only is it huge, but it has six minarets, the largest number of minarets of any mosque. The interior walls of the mosque are coloured blue, hence its name. Sultan Ahmed believed that the ubiquitous blue colour would help the faithful in their conversion to God. The tiles come from Iznik and are typically decorated with motifs of lilies, carnations, tulips and roses. There are twenty thousand of these unique tiles and they are still bright and shining. The motifs are always floral or abstract; Islam forbids the depiction of figures. The building is supported by four pillars, called elephant feet. If you raise your head in the middle, you will see that the dome of the mosque forms a four-leaf clover, the corners are also decorated with half domes and the interior is decorated with balconies on three sides. The interior is illuminated by countless small glass windows as well as a chandelier hanging from a huge chain from the ceiling.
Even here, admission is free, and under the same veiled and cramped conditions as Hagia Sophia.
The Galata Bridge spans the mouth of the Golden Horn. The upper level is primarily used for transport, while the lower level consists of a promenade lined with shops and restaurants.
Grand Bazaar is one of the world's largest indoor marketplaces. There are more than 58 indoor arcades and over 1200 shops. Around 250,000 to 400,000 tourists visit it daily (unless it is Covid). The market covers an area of 45 hectares and employs about 20,000 people.
If you want to get a taste of the market atmosphere but prefer a quieter pace, try Sahaflar Carsisi (literally "book market"), where, in addition to a wide range of books from around the world, instead of crowds of tourists, you'll mainly meet locals.
Well, the best part of the whole day for me is the boat ride on the Bosphorus, where you can enjoy all the beauty of the Asian and European side of Istanbul with seagulls overhead and the water below you, which your boat crosses. One hour cruise for 260 CZK. Right here, perhaps have a local tea or feed the leftover pastries to the seagulls. An experience beyond experiences.
Well, the absolute best end of the day is a walk through the night centre and a kebab dinner in a local restaurant. Nice at the table like a man, with freshly squeezed orange juice (secretly spiked with vodka). A dinner that you enjoy to the last bite, even if you're bursting at the seams, and a time that passes like water, even if it was quite long. Sitting in that garden, enjoying the view of Istanbul at night, you realise that this moment will be the one you will always remember first when you think of this metropolis.
ISTANBUL - ANTALYA LARA
Morning wake-up call, breakfast, transfer to the airport and there decision.
Instead of flying home, I'm flying back south! On the day of my departure, the Norwegian radar predicts clear skies for the next 5 days with temperatures of 20 degrees, which translates to a tropical summer, while at home it is a real Ladovian winter. And not only that! Considering the covid situation in the Czech Republic and the fact that the next trip is in the stars, I change international departures to domestic departures, buy a flight from Istanbul back to the Turkish Riviera with Paegasus and change the story. First time without a return ticket home. I'll change my mind - depending on the weather and the colour of my skin :)
So instead of getting on the plane at 12 o'clock for Vienna, I board the plane at 13 o'clock for Antalya. After an hour of flight I land and transfer to the city centre with the help of a helpful local tram worker for free.
The reason is that I can't get through the tram turnstile without the HES code. He sees my futile efforts, explains that I really can't do it without HES, and then says I'm having a lucky day. His shift is over and he's going downtown. So he pulled me through the turnstile to and from the tram and showed me the historic city centre. After about an hour of sightseeing, I get into a taxi and get a ride to the hotel I booked, where I will be resting and touching up my paint for the next 5 days.
I have no itinerary for these days. I don't plan any travelling, just sun, sea, sleep and good food. Well, what I set out to do, I did.
Aside from wandering around, the only place I visited during this time that is worth mentioning is the waterfalls falling into the sea about 5 km from my hotel. I walked there and back, and that alone was an experience.
The scenery from the cliffs was breathtaking and I had to stop every now and then to take pictures. I just couldn't do it any other way. Plus, the whole cliff to Düden Falls is one big park where locals sit and enjoy the beautiful sunny afternoon. In a time of pandemic - an incredible spectacle. Families, lovers, singles... Lots of people smiling, eating all kinds of goodies, sipping Turkish tea from a thermos and enjoying the beautiful day.
The Düden Falls are the aforementioned destination and are definitely a unique natural phenomenon worth seeing. Entrance to the area is not possible during Covid.
Otherwise, however, there is a fee and according to sources, "... it is lined with exotic palm trees. The tour itself then takes you around the watercourse and waterfalls on marked trails. At several points you can rest on a bench and just enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of this little natural wonder. The whole complex is designed as a park and botanical garden, where you can also picnic to the sound of the wild water. Tables and benches are also available. Probably the most interesting and exciting experience besides watching and listening to the unruly spring is the walk behind the cascade itself, which gives you a completely different point of view. Water enters the foothill landscape from the Taurus Mountains, which form the Antalya landscape and where several rivers and streams - including the Düden River - also originate. It falls from a cliff at the same place, from a height of 15 metres and a width of 20 metres. In the course of its long course, however, the strong water has also managed to make its way right through the rock mass, and so it penetrates several times into the mountain depths, from which it rises again to the surface of the earth, eventually to continue on the ground in the form of a clear stream. Due to the rich mineralisation, stalactites grow in some of the caves where the water enters and volcanic minerals form the riverbed itself. In addition, other smaller streams and brooks flow in from the surrounding overgrown hills, which also form various forms of small waterfalls and waterfalls in places."
Eventually the current of water rushes up to the cliff, from which the water falls unstoppably into the depths of the Mediterranean in all its mighty force. This is an experience that even Covid can't take away! It is the view from the sea surface or from the cliff from which the water current cuts the sea surface that is the scenery worth all the money! Even more so when it's drenched by the setting sun.
On my last day, my alarm woke me up at 5am. The taxi from the hotel to the airport takes 20 minutes and costs 240 CZK. The check-in is faster than I expected, so I still connect to the café's wifi and surf the net for a while after buying a coffee and getting a PIN code.
The Antalya - Istanbul flight is again a leisurely hour, but then I have a lot of work to do to make the 50-minute connection in Istanbul from the domestic departures section to the international departures section. I manage, but I recommend everyone to give themselves a little more time to make the connection.
The flight to Vienna was complicated by a passenger getting up during the descent - just before the plane hit the ground. I will long remember the shouting of the cabin crew at the lady in the scarf, who was handing her suitcase a little prematurely. As will the resuscitation of the lady two aisles ahead of me a few seconds later. Well done. I wish it hadn't - on the wings of a pegasus... But it wasn't the only miracle on board! I also had a three-seater all to myself on a completely full plane :)
Transport to the Czech Republic by train was uneventful, only the Ladov winter, reaching 10 degrees below zero, was a bit of a massacre. A temperature difference of 30 degrees is nothing for me! It's a good thing they have that Prosecco at the airport for €2.9.
Turkey is a country for which even 12 days is not enough. I'll definitely go back and try using domestic flights for a much more detailed itinerary. I can only recommend Turkey to everyone, even now in the Covid era. Because even if it's not Zanzibar or the Maldives, and even if you do wear a veil, you still get a real break from it.
The best part of this trip for me will always be the fact that it WAS. Even after 145 years (not mine!! but the ones between heaven and earth..), as flight memory recently calculated, no flight is ordinary for me. Each one is Something Something, I have a light sleepless night before each one and a great anticipation of all that lies ahead. For with each new journey, I am more and more aware that travel is not a given and that each trip I take may be my last for a long time. I remember one day 11 months ago. I was sitting on the beach in Cahuita, waiting for my repatriation flight home, while reading headlines that we might not see the border for two years. I remember exactly the feelings I had at the time. It was the need to return home from the restless waves of the Caribbean - where my T, the THING I always come home for (Dad, That Miki, Mine), was always there, but at the same time I felt like not getting on board. To escape the impossibility of travel, for me - the impossibility of really living. Sophie's Choice was playing out inside me, and I really wasn't sure if I had made the right choice as I boarded the plane to Halifax - Reykjavik - Prague. Then everything went wrong, as it happens in life, and my "Covid year" was not only not as tragic as it looked at its starting line, but I flew and travelled the most in my life. It's just that everything is different now and no one knows what tomorrow will bring. We are tired of restrictions, limits, but also scared of every new covid wave and mutation. And people. By the way we forgot to sweep in front of our own doorstep, but quietly sweep 5 times a day in front of our neighbor's. And make it fly! I won't lie - I'm not immortal either, even I get scared sometimes. Sometimes I'm afraid of getting the last of Athens canceled, sometimes I'm afraid of death. Not mine, but the ones I love. Yeah, I'm even afraid of that Covid sometimes. Even though I still think the same thing I wrote a long time ago (it would be a real bummer if I just got shot by an assassin somewhere, swept away by a tsunami, or stung by a malaria-infected mosquito...), the possibility of not contagion, but fatality, is always there. I'm not a "Covid denier", the statistics of this virus make the word "possibility" even a "probability", it's just that whenever the oppression, fear and the desire to barricade myself at home and voluntarily set my arm and my immunity to something I don't trust a fingernail, I remember NI. A girl a few years older than me whose funeral I attended a few months ago. It wasn't Covid, it was "regular" cancer. I've thought about her almost daily for the last 9 months, and especially on every trip. I think of her threadbare knickers that she gave me with the intention of taking them somewhere she will never go again. I wore those knickers on Teide and walked out with them above the clouds. I've carried them with me often since then, and every time I put them on my feet I realize how lucky I am. Not that they fit my size, but that I "can do anything". That I have my life, what's left of it, firmly in my hands. And that, I'm sorry to anyone who's pissed off, I'm really not going to give that up. Maybe experience Turkey a second time. Covid notwithstanding. And not only Covid, also to all those who have forgotten (or worse - never experienced) what it's like to travel. I certainly haven't forgotten, won't forget, and won't pretend that a year (we're finishing first, but there will be two, three..?) can be endured without these feelings. Because it can't, and more importantly, no one knows how much time "to waste" each of us has left. And a year, sorry, like, that's really more than I can and want to give my and Ilka's sneakers off.
So what will I remember most?
Obviously Istanbul, which has enthralled me with the atmosphere of the city and the incredibly un-civil LIFE in every alleyway. Also, the best pistachio baklava cupcake and a goodness called salep, which I drank as quickly as I drank a cup of cocoa as a child. The boat ride, where I just sat for a while with a contented ear-to-ear grin on my face, was the best time I've had in this metropolis as I explored it for the first time. Staying there made me realize how amazing it is to be able to motivate your people, your team and how when someone can do that - miracles happen. Because the work of every single person in the hotel where I stayed for two nights was truly a miracle for me.
The beach in Kemer, where you not only get into the sea but experience the most beautiful relaxation by the sea waves that I can imagine, I would include this in any Riviera itinerary.
And of course the people-pleasing Pamukkale, the absolute ceiling of the trip, where I could stomp alone on the travertine slopes and realize the old familiar "thank you!" Taking in the contrast of two days, two different skies - sunny and freezing black, and realizing that both have their own magic and both just belong together. Just like good and evil, just like black and white, just like bad wine and Sprite (Turkish Palava). Life is not all about perfect days and moments, and that's what this trip convinced me of the most. That you can puncture your bike at the worst possible moment in the worst possible place or not start when you need to, but if you can still put a smile on your face and handle the situation with calmness (because nothing else will help you anyway), you not only win, but also have a recipe for "all the riches in the world": don't shit yourself even in the worst moments and keep moving forward. Even 350 km at an average speed of 120 km on reserve with a range of 80 km!
...and better yet - feel free to switch from lovecost to business class sometime along that journey of a lifetime, because even though it's an adrenaline rush, it's damn well worth it!
A little bit of Asia, a little bit of Europe, just a mixture of spices that will get you and bring a breath of exoticism back into your life in these covid times... Baklava, Salep, beautiful beaches with the sea that you can get into in winter and look out at the snow-capped mountains. Istanbul, the Orient in the palm of your hand. Kemer, Side, Antalya - the Riviera as it should be. And Pamukkale, where you're the only person on a white travertine slope. Turkey, my new love.
Why Turkey? I've been to Turkey once, about five years ago. You'd be surprised - on a sightseeing tour with a travel agency! I bought Turkey for 7 nights for an unbelievable price, which included a return ticket from Prague, the services of a guide for the whole week, and accommodation in four-star hotels with breakfast. The price also included a bus that drove us all over the Turkish interior. And the price? 3900 CZK per person per day. This event was for seniors 50+.. As I found out later - the Turkish government subsidizes stays for this group of people. The reason is clear, the tour guides of the travel agencies go around with them to all the local vendors and producers and try to sell them as many local goods as possible. So our expedition also visited a pottery workshop, a carpet factory, a perfume factory, a leather goods factory... Anyway, no one forced the younger ones (and there were five of us from the whole trip) to buy - it was clear that we were only taking this as an excursion, not as a shopping opportunity. That made us enjoy this trip all the more. There were two possible tours at the time. One was going to Cappadocia and the other to Pamukkale. I chose to go to Cappadocia, which is undoubtedly the main jewel of Turkey. But I knew even then that I would not be the last person to visit this country. I had to see Pamukkale too. And now the time is right! COVID SITUATION - OPERATIONS IN TURKEY A PCR negative test no older than 72 hours is required before traveling to Turkey. This is to be shown at boarding in Vienna and without it you will not be allowed on board. You do not need it anywhere else in Turkey (either on arrival or on domestic flights). Locals must have the so-called HES code, which can only be obtained via a Turkish SIM. I wasn't planning on getting either a SIM or data, hence the HES. The HES code is only necessary from a tourist's perspective when moving by public transport (without the code you don't get on any means of transport that has a turnstile leading to it - tram, train, metro). However, if you plan to use domestic flights, car rental and taxi, even the bus from Istanbul airport to the city centre, you really don't need the HES code. Not even for accommodation, as mentioned in many places. In Turkey it is compulsory to wear a veil everywhere, under a fine of 3000 TRY (apart from Zanzibar where in the world not, right?). So 80% of people wear one, but the number drops rapidly wherever you are with someone further out of public areas. Hotels, beaches, parks... Here the veil is immediately shed, both by foreigners and locals. As soon as you take a few steps off a busy road and into a park, there are easily a hundred people sitting on a grassy area without veils, just like the good old days at a fancy summer festival. Educative stickers of premises (hotels, restaurants, airports, public transport...) - in the maximum level. Covid pictograms are not missing in any shop window, on any entrance door, on floors, on tables... The 11 commandments here have replaced the 14 covid commandments - you will find this info sign at every turn. Surface disinfection here is as automatic as cashing in a customer after a purchase. The disposable packaging in hotel restaurants is reaching absurd levels. Every cutlery in a paper bag, everything disposable. But what I was very pleasantly surprised by - minimum plastic and plastic, everything in paper packaging. The shops are banned from selling alcohol on Saturdays and Sundays!! I don't know if this is Covid related or normal here, either way I consider it important information. If you don't solve it with an all inclusive hotel, don't buy alcohol in time for the weekend. The locals have a curfew all weekend, that is Sat and Sun. However, this ban does not apply to tourists. In real life, for example, police checks are done on the roads to stop every car. Tourists have to prove not only their identity but also the reason for their trip. Once they stop you and you show your passport, they immediately wish you a good day and let you drive on. The monuments are more or less open in Turkey, but there are usually reduced opening hours. Pamukkale, for example, had opening hours of 10am - 8pm according to the website, in reality they closed at 5pm. The overall mood across Turkey is totally relaxed. On a boat in Istanbul, for example, you indicate that you don't want to clean up the empty tea cup in front of you and the attendant immediately smiles and lets you contemplate the empty cup further. No cover.
BRNO - VÍDEŇ - ISTANBUL ANTALYA
The journey begins by boarding the train Brno - Vienna. I have to say that sneaking from lovcost to business class was a masterpiece right from the start! And still approved by the cabin crew. It is because of this that this train ride will always be an unforgettable experience for me, one that comes to mind every time I hear the word train. It was simply a spectacular start to a spectacular trip!
At the train station in Vienna, I jump on the train to the airport, where I walk into the local airport Spar in less than 20 minutes.
I find my favourite departure/arrival Prosecco at the even more popular (unchanged) price of €2.9 on my shelf. For I know full well that the lounge is under Covid, or restrictions associated with it, and this is the last chance to enjoy the airport bubbly.
The lounge, of course, passed and "did not disappoint". Or rather, it failed exactly as I predicted. A paper bag with a banana, half a piece of toast with cottage cheese and a cabbage leaf, a fruko and a biscuit - that's the current Vienna Airport lounge.
The negative PCR test, which wasn't needed when I bought my tickets to Turkey but was on the day of departure, I only show once the whole time, and that to the really superficial gaze of the lady at the counter who prints my ticket against my passport. That's all. The worst spent 1 500 CZK of this trip.
The flight to Istanbul passed quietly and quite quickly. I had no idea how much time to leave for the connection to the domestic flight to Antalya. Only now I can say that an hour is plenty. I left 3 hours to allow for a reserve, so I cut my time short in the Istanbul lounge. There's a cloud of food, all honestly disposably packaged, but not a drop of alcohol. I'm beginning to think Covid is already in Turkey...
Istanbul Airport: has been open since April 2019 and the entire operation of the original airport has been moved here. The airport aspires to be the largest airport in the world and is located about 50 km from the city centre.
Istanbul airport atmosphere? It's as if Covid didn't exist. A million people, a buzz, a murmur. Check-in was a rush, I didn't take my cosmetics or laptop out of my bag while scanning - no one even demanded it. There is a wifi point at the Istanbul airport for international departures, where you get a pin code after presenting your passport and ticket, which gives you 30 minutes of wifi for free. If you are waiting at the gate, find a cafe with a wifi logo and if you buy at least a coffee there, you will get the wifi password from the staff as well. The lounge offers a decent range of food, lots of local goodies, coffee, tea, soft drinks, fruit salads, vegetable salads, pasta salads, desserts ... but zero alcohol. So it's a bummer.
Currently, the fastest service to downtown is provided by HavaIst buses. From the airport, there are 5 lines operating to the whole of Istanbul, the most popular of which is logically the connection to central Taksim Square. During the day they leave every 15 minutes. The whole journey to the centre takes around 90 minutes depending on traffic. A ticket to Taksim Square (and other destinations within the centre) costs 18 TRY and can be bought directly from the bus. You do not need a HES code.
There is an "Istanbulkart", a card for public transport in Istanbul. You can buy this for 10 TRY from a kiosk or machine in the arrivals hall or at the bus stop, and you can pay with card or cash. The card can be loaded with any amount of money and can be used on the metro, buses, trams and public transport. However, I have not used this card.
I'm flying Istanbul - Antalya with a local low-cost airline Paegasus. The flight is practically full, the journey is an hour long and the landing is right on time. For me, a big compliment to this company.
At the airport, I wait for about 30 minutes for my reserved car. A word of caution for anyone planning to do the same: once you leave the airport hall, you can't get back into the airport hall (without a ticket, even in a light Turkish rain). The gentleman from the rental car company a few km away from the airport arrives about half an hour late, which I cut short by unsuccessfully feeding the local cats. But the toast and cheese from the Viennese lounge is not good enough for them.
Antalya Airport: is the most important air port on Turkey's Mediterranean coast. It lies about 8 km from Antalya, 40 km from Kemer and 110 km from Alanya. There are two international terminals and one domestic terminal in operation, which are at their peak during the summer.
The airport is accessible by bus and tram from the centre, but be warned that the tram only stops at Terminal 1 and does not run to Terminal 2, 1km away. Without an HES code, you will now not be able to get on the tram.
Bus 600 connects both terminals with the city centre and Otogar bus station, where you can already transfer to any bus in the region - see antalyaulasim.com.tr for more information. Bus 800 connects both terminals with the Lara district and virtually the entire city's coastline.
A taxi from the airport to the centre or to the Lara coast costs 80 TRY.
The transfer to AYK Car Rental is quick, and the red Fiat that took me there already stays for the price of 70 EUR/5 days. Diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey and I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road.
TRAVEL IN TURKEY
The first part of the trip was a road trip. Renting a car upon arrival in Antalya and 5 days on the road. Renting a car for 5 days is 70 EUR, diesel costs 21 CZK/l in Turkey, I didn't have any paid sections on my route.
After flying into Istanbul, two days in this city using mainly my own legs and one cruise on the Bosphorus. By the way, one of the most common cars in Istanbul is our Czech-made Koda.
After moving on to the relaxing part of the journey back to the Riviera, it was just the resort, the sea and the beach - so no use of transport.
And then it's about 30 minutes drive through Antalya at night to the hotel, where I can still use the all inclusive services for the last hour...
...and that I am!!!
Sealife Family Resort Hotel
The local Mojito and wine with Sprite (read Turkish Palava) may not be great, but after today - thanks for that! The hotel is pretty full (for Covid), but mostly locals.
TURKING IN TURKEY
I choose my accommodation with the check in of the flight, two days before departure. Although - even that is a risk nowadays! One rather important thing about accommodation in Turkey: book it in advance for the entire stay!!! Because there is no booking in Turkey. When you go to this app here, it doesn't work. Quite a shock for me. It is solvable if you only have accommodation for the first night. You choose through Agoda, tripadvisor, etc. But for autistic people who love the clarity of booking - stupid. I'll add - from home you choose and book the accommodation via booking - it works. Just not on the spot.
If you are going to the Riviera, I would recommend "not skimping" and choosing an all inclusive hotel. This is in fact the cheapest accommodation option. I guarantee that you will not spend a penny on food and drink. And considering the price of wine and alcohol, it really is the cheapest way to go.
If you're going to be in Istanbul for a night or two, then don't skimp either and choose accommodation in the centre, as close to the mosques as possible. I chose a hotel in an amazing location. Order and amenities 1A and all - I have never experienced such an amazing attitude to guests in my life!! Welcome drink, upgrade to the best room for the price of a basic room, bottle of wine in the room as a courtesy of the company or gifts at check out..just a dream. Also the constantly smiling and helpful staff who won't let you pass by without asking if everything is ok. The breakfast is absolute luxury and the view from the rooftop of Hagia Sophia - perfection!
ANTALYA - PAMUKKALE
Travel fatigue got to me, so I decide to spend half a day on the beach, which is across the road "in front of the house". The sun is shining, and even though the locals are walking around in down jackets, for me it feels like a tank top and shorts. The view from the beach of the snow-capped mountains is something I will remember for a long time.
Since it's almost noon, I'll have time for lunch at the hotel and then I'm on my way to Pamukkale. I have 250 km to go, so about 3 and a half hours behind the wheel. This is the most beautiful road I've ever driven. The way the snow-capped mountain peaks suddenly emerge closer and closer from the sunny almost summer Riviera is a fat experience. I enjoy it most when I'm refueling, but I also take pictures and snap photos along the way. It was 16 degrees outside when I started the trip. In the mountains at the gas station, it's 1 degree. You don't notice it in the car because it's a beautiful sunny day, but I almost froze at the gas station. In shorts :)
I arrive in Pamukkale before 5 pm, the nicest time of the day. That's when the best sunlight hits all the beauty around. I park the car, pay the parking fee and immediately afterwards learn from the gentleman who just collected me that Pamukkale closes at 5pm. Funny man :)
Well never mind, it's beautiful so I'm going to walk wherever the paths allow. Snow-covered icy hills contrasting with summer skies, all bathed in warm afternoon sun, it's absolutely mesmerizing scenery. I walk past a pond with ducks, through green grass with streams and enjoy the afternoon almost summer in Pamukkale. Sitting here on the mesas in the grass, having a glass (read PET bottle with wine topped up from the last all inclusive hotel) and enjoying this wonderful moment with all my senses, after the snowy landscape on the way here, is the best part of the whole day.
After about an hour, I go to the hotel. Even though it's almost dark, it's still pretty early. Luckily, I brought my PC, so I'm playing downloaded movies. First up is Hanka Třeštíková's Farewell to the Children, which is a gritty time-lapse I saw a year or so ago, and - like then - it evoked some pretty strange feelings in me here. Mostly thoughts about how some people's fate is...predestined. Sadly predestined. It makes me all the more aware of what an amazing life I can live. To travel, to see so many beautiful places and things, to dream of more and more adventurous places with each trip, and yet know that ...EVERYTHING WILL BE. Because the only person who can stop me from doing that or who can help me realize my dreams is me.
Since hunger is getting to me, I treat myself to the best dinner of the whole trip here at the hotel. There are only two rooms occupied in the hotel, one of which is mine. Even so, there is no shortage of impeccable service and food that is delivered on a tray to your bed when you order it. The prices are folksy.
PAMUKKALE - OILUDENIZ - KEMER
.I wake up in Pamukkale and after a delicious breakfast and check-in I head to the parking lot of this "monument". It's the weekend, and in the time of Covid, that means only one thing in Turkey - no one is allowed to leave home except tourists. I drive through a depopulated "town", which is actually an incredible village with everything that belongs to the word village. Sheds, farmhouses, junk, chickens, rabbits, dogs and cats.... Meanwhile, about 4 hotels and then a road with a car park to the ponds. This attraction has elevated the sheer hole to a place every tourist goes to see. However, I don't think anyone spends more than a night here. Actually, not even that, most people take day trips here, and it's quite possible that if they were still open after 5pm yesterday, I would have moved on to the shoreline then too. However, as fate would have it, Covid has reduced the opening hours from 8pm to 5pm. Well, I'm only finding out today that this is exactly how it was supposed to be! Whereas yesterday the sky was turquoise and the sun was the strength of summer, today it is overcast and under a cloud. Not just under a cloud - under an almost apocalyptic black cloud that inspires fear and awe. It is under such a black sky that I park and walk, accompanied by a pack of stray, but very friendly, dogs to the entrance of the grounds. It is 10 o'clock, they are just opening and I am all alone. The only one in all of Pamukkale. I mean, plus the pack of dogs and the park rangers. What an incredible experience!
In times long past (non-covid) one of the biggest tourist attractions, now a place where you walk completely alone across a snow-white travertine slope. It's just you, a few guardians of this treasure, the ducks on the lake, and a pack of local dogs who willingly and quite amicably escort you to the entrance of the travertine surface.
For 230 CZK (entrance fee) you can enjoy this white splendour from all sides and angles, as well as with your own bare feet (a must before entering the travertine). But if you read some information beforehand (like this one😉), you'll find that you can avoid walking on really cold and wet ground: thanks to disposable hotel slippers. These (as well as socks, but you will get them wet immediately) the guards will easily allow you to keep on your feet at all times. I recommend taking two so that you can change them after a while, when the first slippers get wet.
The size of this slope (translated as cotton castle in Czech) is 2700m in width and 160m in height. Pamukkale is an area of tectonic faulting where mineral springs flow to the surface. This mineral water flows down the rock to form deposits known as travertine. And that's exactly how this impressive panorama was created over many thousands of years - terraces, cascades and pools that take your breath away with their simple, pure, snow-white beauty.
More so if you manage to experience this place on a glorious sunny day, when the sky is cloudless and the sky blue, and the following day with seemingly haunting overcast skies. Personally, I find overcast skies to be the most beautiful sight. It is here that the contrast of the white travertine with the turquoise water and the black sky above is something like heaven and hell.
These terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Hieralipole excavations. This is the ruins of an ancient Roman city, which includes a large amphitheatre and necropolis. You can also visit here as part of the entrance fee. It was Pamukkale that was the "wellness" for the inhabitants of the city at that time. They had it figured out perfectly!
The limestone rock travertine is also found in the Czech Republic - in the vicinity of Beroun, in the Cikánský dolík in Slánsko, etc., but not in such an amazing form. Similar formations to those in Pamukkale can be seen in Yellowstone National Park in the USA or in Hungary.
I exit the compound on the opposite side from my car. They've got it cleverly done - I think the same thing happens to everyone. Because I'm pressed for time, I take a taxi to my car. Apparently every other visitor has to do that too.. Anyway, never mind, for a hundred it saves me at least an hour, maybe an hour and a half walking. And time is money, isn't it? I get in my Fiat and head for the coast.
The first part of the journey is to Ölüdeniz beach, which is supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Clearly, this point is not to be missed on my itinerary. I have 210 km of mountains ahead of me. I ride it for about 4 hours, because the weather has completely turned its sunny face away and after a few kilometres I was riding only in the fog I know from Reed Pond. After a while the fog was compounded by a downpour so heavy that my windscreen wipers were not enough and to make matters worse, the route turned into endless serpentines and ups and downs in them. Stopping at a petrol station and running out of the car to use the toilet - that was two minutes when I was completely drenched. Weather that wouldn't chase a dog away. Well, I don't need to mention that downpour, fog and serpentines in the mountains is the last place you want to experience your first puncture of a rental car...
I'd like to say it was a well-deserved reward, but I'd be lying :) The whole impression was spoiled by the apparently beautiful resort in the summer without Covid, now a depopulated horror with no people that looked like something out of Alfred Hitchcock. A few more birds and it's all over.
And so I drive over to the beach and get out of the car. The sky is still dark and the haze of fog also hides the beauty of this coast. However, the turquoise colour of the sea is breathtaking and so is the beautiful beach. Actually, I believe this beach is top-notch under ideal conditions. I enjoy it for a while, but then, thanks to the loss of time, I get back behind the wheel and drive on. Today's destination is Kemer and it is another 250 km /3,5h drive away. Simply - a day like a good one!
The drive to Kemer is fascinating because suddenly there are several numbers of frozen snow on the road. On top of that, it's snowing, visibility is at zero again and there's a terrible wind. This is a hell of a test of driving skills!! Along the way, I'm occasionally stopped in towns by police checking to see if the locals really only leave the house on the weekend for emergencies. There are a lot of checks, but everywhere you just pull out your passport and they let you - a tourist - continue on your way. A bit unfair, no.
I arrive in Kemer at dusk and head straight to the hotel where I'll be staying for two days. Tomorrow is reported to be sunny, so I plan to relax by the sea. It's a pretty crazy idea when 30 km away there's 20 cm of snow on the road, freezing and drizzling... But the Norwegian radar says it's 17 degrees and sunny, so I believe it.
This hotel is TOP, there are lots of amazing cats that go wherever they want. You can take them on your lap for an evening drink and reminisce about the cats back home.
This was a busy day, but made all the more so by a full day.
KEMER
Norway radar didn't lie - a day like a catalogue from Chedok right from waking up. I'll cut today short - Kemer is a divine place to relax! The sea is gorgeous, the beach is pebbly, but it suits the backdrop of mountains all around. The most famous beach of this location is Moonlight beach - minimum people and a glass of Mojito/wine on the beach guarantees the best relaxation!
Once the sun rises perpendicularly above you, you can even now get into the sea without feeling any freezing. Totally cool. I'm in shock myself, and when I think back to yesterday's snow a few dozen miles away in my swimsuit, it feels like the Matrix. This day was just a gift!
KEMER
There is a lot to see and experience in this area. For example, the DoluSu water park, one of the most extreme water parks in Turkey. There are many attractions (especially extreme water slides), swimming pools, but also a dolphinarium.
In close proximity to Kemer, two rock formations rise skyward amidst the forests and have long been linked and a destination for climbers. The Turkish name Ikiz Kayalar means "Double Mountain".
In addition, the Taurus Mountains with the peak of Tahtalı Dağı (2,366 m above sea level) are located in the vicinity of Kemer. Adjacent to the mountain range is the Olympos Beydagları National Park, which is home not only to the ancient city of Olympos, beautiful nature, but especially to the natural flames that rise directly from the ground in the Ulupinar Mountains, thanks to the natural gas seeps. The Turks call them Yanartas, but they are generally known as Chimera, a reference to Greek mythology.
There are also caves, ancient monuments and much more around Kemer. In other words, the perfect place for a week-long family holiday.
KEMER - SIDE - ANTALYA - ISTANBUL
I'll be waking up pretty early, because there's more on the schedule again today. After breakfast, I'm getting cleaned up and getting back in the car. I'm a little nervous about the text on the display that says something about 140 km and the engine. Well I don't speak Turkish, I also recall a briefing at the rental shop where the guy above one red light told me it was ok not to worry about it, so I ignore that too and drive.
Today's destination is the city of Side and then it's on to the rental car, return the car, transfer to the airport and a 6pm flight to Istanbul. It's not a short drive, it's a two hour/120km drive to Side. Of course, this does not take into account the conversion to reserve driving (80 km/h).
The journey is relaxing, even through Antalya I pass through quite fine. In Side I park for free just outside the historic centre, calculate the time left and give myself 2 hours for the city and just the transfer to the airport.
It's a beautiful city, no question about it. A million monuments all around the road to the port. Really, there are probably more ancient monuments in Turkey than in Rome. At least here in Side stopro!
I'm walking around, taking pictures and slowly walking through the centre to the harbour.
At the entrance to the historical part there is a monumental fountain - nymphaeum. It is a man-made cave, which was naturally supplied with water. It is also one of the examples of water management at that time.
The main attraction of the city is the Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century, which is interesting because its auditorium was not excavated into the hillside, but was built up in stone. For me, the most beautiful site is the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where Antony and Cleopatra are said to have met. The temple was Antony's proof of his great love for Cleopatra... he couldn't have chosen a more beautiful place to build a temple of love! It's really beautiful on that seashore!
The harbour with the lighthouse is really beautiful. The turquoise sea and the colourful fishing boats make a perfectly romantic atmosphere. I'll have a kebab and tea here, and it's at a stall with a gorgeous dog, Johnny. The husky here in warm Turkey looks...strange. I'm barely finished eating before the gentleman is asking me to get up from the table - they're not allowed to serve food other than to take away. I didn't know that and he let me eat in peace too. I wish he wouldn't - outside at a table where the only two people are me and him. Strange times these...
It's just about time to head to the car and get out - to catch my flight.
I walk to the car, sit down, turn the key and ...NOTHING. At the best of times! The info on the display talks about AdBlue and the translator jumps to something about the clutch...I can't figure this out on my own. I go to the taxi drivers nearby and they translate the information immediately. I need to put something in the tank. And I'm supposed to buy it at the gas station. They take me there, I buy the aforementioned AdBlue, and we go back to the car. They tell me where to put it and really - as soon as I fill it up, I start. It was about 40 minutes, so ...FOFR!
I'm at the rental place in about an hour, I get 50 TRY for the fluid, which is exactly what I give the owner again for a flat tire. Great, I was expecting much worse! He knows I'm in a hurry, so he fofs too and within moments we're sitting in the car heading to the airport. I know I'm in time now.
Check-in is over in moments and I board the Paegasus bound for Istanbul. The flight is almost full again.
After one hour flight Istanbul!
I get out of the airport quite quickly and there is a bus stopping in front of the hall, which goes to the centre to Taksim Square. You can pay on the bus and no HES code is needed. The journey takes an hour and a half..
I arrive at the hotel by taxi from the square, it is almost midnight.
However, I still got an amazing welcome drink and a room upgrade to the best possible room. And that's really nice!
I wake up in the morning with a view of Hagia Sophia from my balcony. Beautiful!! I take the elevator up to the roof terrace where breakfast is served and marvel even more at the beauty. Breakfast 1A! Well, after breakfast, hooray for the city. After all, I have to catch as much as I can, I only have one full day in this city.
A city of sumptuous baklava, the best salep, bookstores at every turn (damn, some local Albatros should have published my book here!! :D ) and most importantly, for Covide's time, an incredible life! It is here that I feel all the time that the world is right again. Just like it used to be..
The city itself is divided by the Bosphorus Strait into Asian and European parts. Its biggest advantage is the fact that its most interesting tourist spots lie in a relatively small area. Islamic Arabic architecture and culture are really at every turn here, especially the Turkish mosques. Istanbul's most famous landmarks include Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Tulip Mosque, Suleiman Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Dolmabahance Palace, Constantine's Column, the Jerebatan Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Hippodrome, the Galata Tower and the Valenti Aqueduct. I didn't even see a third of it, yet I rank this city, with its atmosphere with a touch of the exotic, next to Marrakech, as one of those that one should definitely see and experience. And not just once!
On the European side, the most famous district is Sultanahmet, with its distinctive Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia (in Czech, "Temple of God's Wisdom"), or, from the ground, the inconspicuous Yerebatan Sarnıcı, a basilica cistern. This underground water tank was built in the 6th century to supply drinking water to the nearby imperial palace. It holds over 80 thousand cubic meters of water. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of my trip...
The Hagia Sophia, originally a Christian temple and one of the most famous sacred buildings in the world, TODAY IS A MESSAGE... The temple was built on the site where two churches originally stood. Both buildings became the seat of the Orthodox Patriarchate until the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. The arrival of the Turks marked the end of the Byzantine Empire and the conversion of the two churches into a mosque. The latter was additionally provided with four minarets. Interestingly, Hagia Sophia became the first ever mosque in Turkey. Other similar temples were built throughout the Ottoman Empire, following its model.
The massive main dome is supported by four pillars. Each of these pillars is 18 metres high and 7.5 metres wide. The bottom floor of the museum is the main space, while the top floor is reserved for women only. The walls of the temple are covered with six kinds of marble slabs and these are firmly anchored with bronze clasps. Equally interesting is the floor of the temple itself, which is decorated with ornamental marble mosaics. The walls and vaults are covered with mosaics of angels and saints.
Admission to Hagia Sophia is free, but you must cover your hair, shoulders and at least your knees (just throw a sweatshirt over your head) and of course take off your shoes.
The Blue Mosque (the official name of the Blue Mosque is Sultan Ahmet Camii after its founder Sultan Ahmed) is in the Sultanahmet district, where most tourists go when exploring Istanbul's main sights. It is the most important mosque in Istanbul. Not only is it huge, but it has six minarets, the largest number of minarets of any mosque. The interior walls of the mosque are coloured blue, hence its name. Sultan Ahmed believed that the ubiquitous blue colour would help the faithful in their conversion to God. The tiles come from Iznik and are typically decorated with motifs of lilies, carnations, tulips and roses. There are twenty thousand of these unique tiles and they are still bright and shining. The motifs are always floral or abstract; Islam forbids the depiction of figures. The building is supported by four pillars, called elephant feet. If you raise your head in the middle, you will see that the dome of the mosque forms a four-leaf clover, the corners are also decorated with half domes and the interior is decorated with balconies on three sides. The interior is illuminated by countless small glass windows as well as a chandelier hanging from a huge chain from the ceiling.
Even here, admission is free, and under the same veiled and cramped conditions as Hagia Sophia.
The Galata Bridge spans the mouth of the Golden Horn. The upper level is primarily used for transport, while the lower level consists of a promenade lined with shops and restaurants.
Grand Bazaar is one of the world's largest indoor marketplaces. There are more than 58 indoor arcades and over 1200 shops. Around 250,000 to 400,000 tourists visit it daily (unless it is Covid). The market covers an area of 45 hectares and employs about 20,000 people.
If you want to get a taste of the market atmosphere but prefer a quieter pace, try Sahaflar Carsisi (literally "book market"), where, in addition to a wide range of books from around the world, instead of crowds of tourists, you'll mainly meet locals.
Well, the best part of the whole day for me is the boat ride on the Bosphorus, where you can enjoy all the beauty of the Asian and European side of Istanbul with seagulls overhead and the water below you, which your boat crosses. One hour cruise for 260 CZK. Right here, perhaps have a local tea or feed the leftover pastries to the seagulls. An experience beyond experiences.
Well, the absolute best end of the day is a walk through the night centre and a kebab dinner in a local restaurant. Nice at the table like a man, with freshly squeezed orange juice (secretly spiked with vodka). A dinner that you enjoy to the last bite, even if you're bursting at the seams, and a time that passes like water, even if it was quite long. Sitting in that garden, enjoying the view of Istanbul at night, you realise that this moment will be the one you will always remember first when you think of this metropolis.
ISTANBUL - ANTALYA LARA
Morning wake-up call, breakfast, transfer to the airport and there decision.
Instead of flying home, I'm flying back south! On the day of my departure, the Norwegian radar predicts clear skies for the next 5 days with temperatures of 20 degrees, which translates to a tropical summer, while at home it is a real Ladovian winter. And not only that! Considering the covid situation in the Czech Republic and the fact that the next trip is in the stars, I change international departures to domestic departures, buy a flight from Istanbul back to the Turkish Riviera with Paegasus and change the story. First time without a return ticket home. I'll change my mind - depending on the weather and the colour of my skin :)
So instead of getting on the plane at 12 o'clock for Vienna, I board the plane at 13 o'clock for Antalya. After an hour of flight I land and transfer to the city centre with the help of a helpful local tram worker for free.
The reason is that I can't get through the tram turnstile without the HES code. He sees my futile efforts, explains that I really can't do it without HES, and then says I'm having a lucky day. His shift is over and he's going downtown. So he pulled me through the turnstile to and from the tram and showed me the historic city centre. After about an hour of sightseeing, I get into a taxi and get a ride to the hotel I booked, where I will be resting and touching up my paint for the next 5 days.
I have no itinerary for these days. I don't plan any travelling, just sun, sea, sleep and good food. Well, what I set out to do, I did.
Aside from wandering around, the only place I visited during this time that is worth mentioning is the waterfalls falling into the sea about 5 km from my hotel. I walked there and back, and that alone was an experience.
The scenery from the cliffs was breathtaking and I had to stop every now and then to take pictures. I just couldn't do it any other way. Plus, the whole cliff to Düden Falls is one big park where locals sit and enjoy the beautiful sunny afternoon. In a time of pandemic - an incredible spectacle. Families, lovers, singles... Lots of people smiling, eating all kinds of goodies, sipping Turkish tea from a thermos and enjoying the beautiful day.
The Düden Falls are the aforementioned destination and are definitely a unique natural phenomenon worth seeing. Entrance to the area is not possible during Covid.
Otherwise, however, there is a fee and according to sources, "... it is lined with exotic palm trees. The tour itself then takes you around the watercourse and waterfalls on marked trails. At several points you can rest on a bench and just enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of this little natural wonder. The whole complex is designed as a park and botanical garden, where you can also picnic to the sound of the wild water. Tables and benches are also available. Probably the most interesting and exciting experience besides watching and listening to the unruly spring is the walk behind the cascade itself, which gives you a completely different point of view. Water enters the foothill landscape from the Taurus Mountains, which form the Antalya landscape and where several rivers and streams - including the Düden River - also originate. It falls from a cliff at the same place, from a height of 15 metres and a width of 20 metres. In the course of its long course, however, the strong water has also managed to make its way right through the rock mass, and so it penetrates several times into the mountain depths, from which it rises again to the surface of the earth, eventually to continue on the ground in the form of a clear stream. Due to the rich mineralisation, stalactites grow in some of the caves where the water enters and volcanic minerals form the riverbed itself. In addition, other smaller streams and brooks flow in from the surrounding overgrown hills, which also form various forms of small waterfalls and waterfalls in places."
Eventually the current of water rushes up to the cliff, from which the water falls unstoppably into the depths of the Mediterranean in all its mighty force. This is an experience that even Covid can't take away! It is the view from the sea surface or from the cliff from which the water current cuts the sea surface that is the scenery worth all the money! Even more so when it's drenched by the setting sun.
On my last day, my alarm woke me up at 5am. The taxi from the hotel to the airport takes 20 minutes and costs 240 CZK. The check-in is faster than I expected, so I still connect to the café's wifi and surf the net for a while after buying a coffee and getting a PIN code.
The Antalya - Istanbul flight is again a leisurely hour, but then I have a lot of work to do to make the 50-minute connection in Istanbul from the domestic departures section to the international departures section. I manage, but I recommend everyone to give themselves a little more time to make the connection.
The flight to Vienna was complicated by a passenger getting up during the descent - just before the plane hit the ground. I will long remember the shouting of the cabin crew at the lady in the scarf, who was handing her suitcase a little prematurely. As will the resuscitation of the lady two aisles ahead of me a few seconds later. Well done. I wish it hadn't - on the wings of a pegasus... But it wasn't the only miracle on board! I also had a three-seater all to myself on a completely full plane :)
Transport to the Czech Republic by train was uneventful, only the Ladov winter, reaching 10 degrees below zero, was a bit of a massacre. A temperature difference of 30 degrees is nothing for me! It's a good thing they have that Prosecco at the airport for €2.9.
Turkey is a country for which even 12 days is not enough. I'll definitely go back and try using domestic flights for a much more detailed itinerary. I can only recommend Turkey to everyone, even now in the Covid era. Because even if it's not Zanzibar or the Maldives, and even if you do wear a veil, you still get a real break from it.
The best part of this trip for me will always be the fact that it WAS. Even after 145 years (not mine!! but the ones between heaven and earth..), as flight memory recently calculated, no flight is ordinary for me. Each one is Something Something, I have a light sleepless night before each one and a great anticipation of all that lies ahead. For with each new journey, I am more and more aware that travel is not a given and that each trip I take may be my last for a long time. I remember one day 11 months ago. I was sitting on the beach in Cahuita, waiting for my repatriation flight home, while reading headlines that we might not see the border for two years. I remember exactly the feelings I had at the time. It was the need to return home from the restless waves of the Caribbean - where my T, the THING I always come home for (Dad, That Miki, Mine), was always there, but at the same time I felt like not getting on board. To escape the impossibility of travel, for me - the impossibility of really living. Sophie's Choice was playing out inside me, and I really wasn't sure if I had made the right choice as I boarded the plane to Halifax - Reykjavik - Prague. Then everything went wrong, as it happens in life, and my "Covid year" was not only not as tragic as it looked at its starting line, but I flew and travelled the most in my life. It's just that everything is different now and no one knows what tomorrow will bring. We are tired of restrictions, limits, but also scared of every new covid wave and mutation. And people. By the way we forgot to sweep in front of our own doorstep, but quietly sweep 5 times a day in front of our neighbor's. And make it fly! I won't lie - I'm not immortal either, even I get scared sometimes. Sometimes I'm afraid of getting the last of Athens canceled, sometimes I'm afraid of death. Not mine, but the ones I love. Yeah, I'm even afraid of that Covid sometimes. Even though I still think the same thing I wrote a long time ago (it would be a real bummer if I just got shot by an assassin somewhere, swept away by a tsunami, or stung by a malaria-infected mosquito...), the possibility of not contagion, but fatality, is always there. I'm not a "Covid denier", the statistics of this virus make the word "possibility" even a "probability", it's just that whenever the oppression, fear and the desire to barricade myself at home and voluntarily set my arm and my immunity to something I don't trust a fingernail, I remember NI. A girl a few years older than me whose funeral I attended a few months ago. It wasn't Covid, it was "regular" cancer. I've thought about her almost daily for the last 9 months, and especially on every trip. I think of her threadbare knickers that she gave me with the intention of taking them somewhere she will never go again. I wore those knickers on Teide and walked out with them above the clouds. I've carried them with me often since then, and every time I put them on my feet I realize how lucky I am. Not that they fit my size, but that I "can do anything". That I have my life, what's left of it, firmly in my hands. And that, I'm sorry to anyone who's pissed off, I'm really not going to give that up. Maybe experience Turkey a second time. Covid notwithstanding. And not only Covid, also to all those who have forgotten (or worse - never experienced) what it's like to travel. I certainly haven't forgotten, won't forget, and won't pretend that a year (we're finishing first, but there will be two, three..?) can be endured without these feelings. Because it can't, and more importantly, no one knows how much time "to waste" each of us has left. And a year, sorry, like, that's really more than I can and want to give my and Ilka's sneakers off.
So what will I remember most?
Obviously Istanbul, which has enthralled me with the atmosphere of the city and the incredibly un-civil LIFE in every alleyway. Also, the best pistachio baklava cupcake and a goodness called salep, which I drank as quickly as I drank a cup of cocoa as a child. The boat ride, where I just sat for a while with a contented ear-to-ear grin on my face, was the best time I've had in this metropolis as I explored it for the first time. Staying there made me realize how amazing it is to be able to motivate your people, your team and how when someone can do that - miracles happen. Because the work of every single person in the hotel where I stayed for two nights was truly a miracle for me.
The beach in Kemer, where you not only get into the sea but experience the most beautiful relaxation by the sea waves that I can imagine, I would include this in any Riviera itinerary.
And of course the people-pleasing Pamukkale, the absolute ceiling of the trip, where I could stomp alone on the travertine slopes and realize the old familiar "thank you!" Taking in the contrast of two days, two different skies - sunny and freezing black, and realizing that both have their own magic and both just belong together. Just like good and evil, just like black and white, just like bad wine and Sprite (Turkish Palava). Life is not all about perfect days and moments, and that's what this trip convinced me of the most. That you can puncture your bike at the worst possible moment in the worst possible place or not start when you need to, but if you can still put a smile on your face and handle the situation with calmness (because nothing else will help you anyway), you not only win, but also have a recipe for "all the riches in the world": don't shit yourself even in the worst moments and keep moving forward. Even 350 km at an average speed of 120 km on reserve with a range of 80 km!
...and better yet - feel free to switch from lovecost to business class sometime along that journey of a lifetime, because even though it's an adrenaline rush, it's damn well worth it!
