In the summer of 2023, I set out for a month under a tent and wandering on foot in the south of Norway. The Itinerary is a selection of the most beautiful parts of the route, complete with not so well-known places that are definitely worth a visit. Highlights definitely include the seasonally open local farmer's shops on the islet of Veierland (summer only), the Viking shipbuilder's shop in Tønsberg, the mined island of Langøya, which has been declared a nature reserve and is currently undergoing reclamation and scientific work on industrial waste treatment, or the 10 000-year-old gorge near Drammen. There is also, of course, the untamed nature of the south coast and a sea as warm as tea.
🥾 We will walk
Each day we will pack up in the morning and walk about 20 km to the next suitable place to pitch our tent. Cliffs, rocks, enchanting forests and paths leading literally on water will take us along the southern coast of Norks from Sandefjord, where we arrive, to Oslo, the capital, from where we will head back home.
⛺️ Sleeping in a tent
Norway is one of the few countries where it is legal to tent in the wild. We will definitely take advantage of this. At the same time, there are typically (especially in the summer) quick showers, so tents, hammocks or tarps definitely to go! Only the first and last night will be spent in the city, in the meantime 5 times we will sleep outdoors (including once in a campsite). I've tried all the forest camping sites mentioned in the itinerary myself and I know that they are both suitable for groups and some of them are even sparingly equipped (sometimes a grill, sometimes a kadibudka, both at once would be an unnecessary luxury).
🍽️ Food and Water
We will eat and drink what we carry in our backpack. No need to take supplies from home, just shop in Sandefjord and then replenish continuously. We will be passing through towns like Tønsberg, Åsgårdstrand, Holmestrand, Drammen, so there will certainly be opportunities to stop for a shop or even lunch in a restaurant.
🏃 Who is the trip suitable for
For adventurers and travelers who are not afraid of spiders or mosquitoes keeping us company in the woods at night. Some physical fitness is required, but again the terrain is not too extreme. We walk about 15-25 km each day and set up our dwellings in the forest or on the beach. We expect a total elevation gain of about 3000 m up and 3000 m down for 150 km of walking.
🤑 Currency and language
Except for postcards at church, the vast majority of things in Norwaycan be paid for cashlessly, including ferries between islands. Other forms of payment are basically not expected. Just have an international credit card with the ability to pay in Norwegian Kroner (NOK). As for language, English can be easily spoken in Norway.
🧭 Route
We will be taking a route that I have walked myself, so I know what we are getting into. I'll share the route with you before we start our expedition using the link in Mapy.cz. The goal for each day is to enjoy the hike, get to the agreed location and set up the tents. Whether we will come up with a common program for the rest of the day is entirely up to us. We can play a game, cook soup, chat about the deadliness of the bug, etc...
🎒 How to prepare
Please check out the recommended equipment list and don't forget your good mood at home. When packing, please keep in mind that you will be carrying everything you bring with you on your back the entire time, plus food to go with it. You need a good quality and comfortable backpack, but not an unnecessarily large bag. I recommend being prepared for water in the form of rain, mud, fog and dew, and taking an adequately warm sleeping bag just in case. (I'm an ice cream man, so I walk with a winter down jacket.)
🛁 Hygiene
Due to the intense nature of being outdoors, I recommend bringing wet wipes and hand sanitizer spray, which is an absolute essential for multi-day camping. Swim in the sea, which is as warm as tea in southern Norway, but don't expect a shower in the forest.
We will fine tune any questions about the expedition together as the date gets closer. So stretch those stiff muscles and get ready for a proper adventure. If you pack your favorite travel game, I'd love it.
So, you coming? 😉
We arrive at TORP airport, which officially falls under Oslo, but is actually right next to Sandefjord. From the airport we take a train bus into the city. getting to know each other, exploring the city, shopping for food for the next few days, a walk in the adjacent forest park and perhaps a meal at a seaside restaurant...
It has a history going back about 1000 years, to the time of the mighty Vikings. But Sandefjord was officially founded in 1838. It is also worth mentioning the whaling that characterised the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first expedition was sent to the Antarctic Ocean in 1905 and by the end of 1920 Sandefjord had a total of 15 factory ships and more than 90 whaling ships. Over time, however, interest in whale meat declined until, in 1968, the whaling industry ceased altogether. Nowadays, Sandefjord is home to the only museum referring to this period of history and houses the third largest merchant fleet in Norway.
Accommodation near the train station with breakfast included. Interior themed in connection with the city's important whaling history.
After breakfast, we will head to Engø harbour, where a ferry will take us to the small island of Veierland. At the other end of the island, we board another ferry and explore neighbouring Nøtterøy. As we will be following the coastal route of Kyststien Nøtterøy, we can expect water, hills, rocks, forests, cliffs and spectacular views of the open sea. In the evening we will stay in tents on Munkerekka Beach and have a picnic.
In Engø we board the ferry to the port of Tangen on the islet of Veierland. The Engø-Tangen ferry runs daily 9am-5pm, payment by card on board.
https://www.veierland.org/ferga/rutetider.pdf
Port on Veierland
The 4.4 square kilometre island of Veierland is home to about 150 permanent residents, but during the summer months the island comes alive with a high number of holiday homes and seasonal activities. The rest of the year, on the other hand, it is possible to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of ordinary island life without the crowds. There is a ban on cars and motor vehicles. Exceptions can only be made for scooters or tractors, with cycling or walking being the most common mode of transport.
On the other side of Veierland, in Vestgården harbour, we board another ferry that takes us to Tenvik harbour on the slightly larger island of Nøtterøy. The Vestgården-Tenvik route is the same ferry as above, payment by card on board.
Harbour at Nøtterøy
From the port of Tenvik on the island of Nøtterøy we will follow the Kyststien Nøtterøy route along the west coast of the island.
Ostrov Nøtterøy, trasa Kyststien
Small pleasant beach with modest seating. The Norwegian sea is warm as tea, so if the weather permits, I definitely recommend at least getting your feet wet. After setting up the tents, we can have a picnic and play some travel games.
Take the pedestrian footbridge from the island of Nøtterøy to the mainland, right into the centre of Tønsberg, Norway's oldest city. Just over the bridge, we'll take a peek into the workshop of Eivind, builder of traditional Viking ships and patron of the St. Olaf Pilgrimage Trail. From Eivind's workshop, we continue smoothly with a commentary tour of the town: a glimpse of the remains of the fortress. We can have lunch at a local restaurant and then head into the woods just outside the town, where we stay at one of Norway's typical gapahuk.
One of the oldest towns in Scandinavia and the oldest town in Nosek. The first mention of a settlement here dates back to the 9th century AD, when, according to historical sources, there was a farmstead. capital of the country for a time. It was founded by King Harald I (Fairhair), who united the Kingdom of Norway into what we know today. The long history and vigorous Viking spirit still speaks from the streets of Tønsberg.
We sleep at a gapahuk (shelter) in the forest behind Tønsberg. We can't all fit under the roof, so we put up tents around it. However, we can use tables, a fire pit and a fireplace.
Today's day will be in the spirit of close connection with the untamed Norwegian nature. We will continue to follow the coastal trail, sometimes jumping on rocks right in the water. There will also be forests, and at the end the terrain will get a bit wavy, so we will climb some hills. High cliffs will offer us views of the open sea and we will find accommodation in a witching cottage on a cliff.
The point of departure and also the place where we rejoin the coast. In the town it is possible to replenish food (supermarket).
Passage point
The luxurious shelter with fireplace and seating is the perfect place to rest and stash some goodies. The replenished energy is then burned off on the cliff climb.
We'll ask Hagrid to let us spend the night at his hut. There are plenty of places for tents (and hammocks) around, you can sit inside by the fireplace or outside on benches overlooking the sea.
From the wizard's hut we will go through meadows, forests and fields to the town of Holmestrand. Here we board the boat to Langøya at the harbour. We'll tour the nature reserve on Oslofjord's second largest island, whose landscape is currently being restored after years of mining. We then take a boat ride back to the mainland and head into the forest to the tourist lodge where we stay.
Holmestrand naturally developed around 1550 as a port for the export of harvested timber. In 1716, however, the northern part burnt down and the town gradually declined. The era of seafaring and then the new railroad brought brief moments of rebirth, but the greatest historical achievement is considered to be the aluminum factory, whose museum is an important part of the town's present-day appearance.
It is important for us to be in civilization. So shops and restaurants. But first we're going to explore neighbouring Langøya. The ferry to Langøya runs on a regular schedule: https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/boattrip-to-langøya/237577/
The island began limestone mining 150 years ago, making it inaccessible to the public. The mining machines gradually excavated the entire island, leaving only deep craters. restoring the island's original landscape. After thirty years of work, the northern part has been reopened to the public and declared a nature reserve.
https://en.noah.no/for-clients/treatment-area/langoya/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Again in town, so again a chance to replenish food or water supplies or have a good lunch before the next hike.
Don't be scared of the 39 km number, the route can be shortened or adapted to our current state of determination. Either way, we'll head to the town of Sande for the train, skipping the boring road walking. We'll get off at Drammen, which is, from my point of view, the biggest highlight of this trip.
After Ypsilon Bridge we cross the Drammenselva River and rest on the other bank in the city park. Then we'll head up to the top of the hill outside the city, where the Friluftsmuseet - a free open-air museum and museum of historic buildings that have been moved here from various parts of Norway - awaits us. Each building has its own story to tell, and together they remind us of the olden days and the life of our ancestors in the harsh conditions of the Nordic country. From the museum, we will follow a smooth hiking route around the lakes through the hills until we descend back to Drammen, where we will stay at a retro campsite by the river.
To shorten the journey and skip the boring road walk, we take the train to Dramnen in Sande.
There's a train to Drammen. We will get off at the station and cross the river right after Ypsilon Bridge. On the other bank we will be enchanted by the city park, from where we will go to the Tunnel Spiralen. Then we check out the historical buildings in the museum on the hill. We will continue along the hiking route around the lakes until we get back to Drammen, where we will stay at the campsite.
The Ypsilon Bridge was opened in 2008. It is an architectural masterpiece by Arne Eggen and an integral part of the city's identity. It connects the knowledge park Grønland with the city park in Bragernes (city district) and functions as a living urban space. The slender steel structure has quickly become an icon for Drammen. Due to its peculiar shape, it was given the name "Ypsilon".
Photo from visitnorway.com
Through the town, we head up the hill to the freely accessible museum of historic doorways.
In 1914 the Drammens Museum took over the timbered farmhouse from Moldbakken in Torpo in Hallingdal. The farmhouse was exhibited at the Jubilee Exhibition in Frogner (Kristiania) and the museum loaned the inventory. This is how the project started to build an open-air museum with the idea of showing the peasant culture in Buskerud from the pre-industrial era.
Several old timbered houses from Hallingdal followed: in 1917 a warehouse from Tunehagen in Ålu was built, in 1922 a stable from Søre Villand in Hol was converted, in 1927 a loft from Mellom Rue in Hol was converted. This was followed by a sauna from Rud in Hovet, which was built in 1937.The museum purchased these houses, but the war then put an end or suspension to the project.
After the war, ambitions grew and the museum was eventually allowed to have a 200 acre site on Bragernesåsen (where the houses stand today). However, the plans dragged on and the first houses were only rebuilt in 1987. A total of 20 houses were rebuilt here between 1987 and 2000.
https://drammens.museum.no/eng/arena/friluftsmuseet-bragernesasen/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Kjosterudjuvet is a 10,000-year-old spectacular gorge just 10 minutes from the centre of Drammen. The gorge is 1300 metres long and the stone walls are more than 60 metres high.
We have two options to get to the gorge: either cut the lake walk considerably short and head straight here, or, after climbing the entire lake circuit, come to the gorge from the other side, climb along the waterfalls to Lake Gamledammen and then back down to the town. We decide on the spot.
The gorge can only be visited if the rivers are not swollen.
Photo from visitnorway.com
Drammen Camping is a retro campsite on the banks of the Drammenselva. It is equipped with shared toilets, showers, a kitchen and there is a source of drinking water. The more demanding can book a cabin at their own expense (4 four-bed wooden cabins available).
More at: https://drammencamping.no
Photo from visitnorway.com
From Drammen we take a very nice stretch through a swampy area to Asker where, again to avoid the roads, we take the train to Oslo. In the capital, we put down our bags for accommodation, freshen up and take to the streets. Exploration of the capital will be a form of free program. The itinerary mentions interesting places or activities, but everyone is interested in something different, so participation is voluntary.
Take the train to Oslo
Oslo became the capital of Norway in 1299, but over the following centuries (including the plague of 1349) its importance declined. The decline culminated in a major fire in 1624, after which the then Danish-Norwegian king Kristian IV founded the new city of Christiania in the neighbourhood. Over time, it swallowed the remains of Oslo and eventually surpassed Bergen - until then Norway's most important city - in importance during the 19th century. Subsequently, the Royal Palace, University and Parliament were built here. Christiania was renamed back to Oslo on 1 January 1925.
After the wars, the city experienced a very progressive development that persists to this day. In 2019, Oslo earned the prestigious European Green Capital designation. More than half of the city's skyline is covered in forests and parks, and the dominant feature is the bay that runs right into the centre of the city. The centre is almost car-free, making it easy to explore on foot, by bicycle or by very efficient public transport.
The remaining time until departure will again be a free program in the capital, which offers countless free and paid experiences. Below, a selection of the (for me) most interesting ones.
In due course we will then move together (or individually) to the airport with our luggage.
The Deichman Library, Bjørvika is certainly worth mentioning, where in addition to books you will find a café, a cinema and plenty of places to relax: https://deichman.no/in-english
The Botanical Garden in Tøyen offers over 4,500 species of plants from all over the world in several themed gardens and two greenhouses. It is run by the University of Oslo and freely accessible: https://www.nhm.uio.no/english/exhibitions/botanical-garden/index.html
Vigeland - a freely accessible sculpture park is certainly worth a visit. The museum building also hosts exhibitions (there's an admission fee) of works by leading artists: https://vigeland.museum.no
The National Museum of Norway was founded in 2003 when the National Gallery, the Museum of Art and Design, the Museum of Architecture and the Museum of Contemporary Art merged. The process of moving more than 400,000 objects into the new space, which opened in 2022, took more than a year. https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/en/
Love for nature, history and modern way of life. These words could sum up the idea behind this itinerary. Norway is one of the most progressive countries in continental Europe and yet its progress is not based on the narrow-minded expansion of industry and the plundering of the landscape, quite the opposite. During our journey, we will discover the beauty of the coast, forests and lakes, but also the charm of the cities that develop side by side with the surrounding nature. Instead of trying to eradicate them, fresh air, mature trees and spectacular views of the countryside are becoming an integral part of modern civilisation. And you simply must experience it!
In the summer of 2023, I set out for a month under a tent and wandering on foot in the south of Norway. The Itinerary is a selection of the most beautiful parts of the route, complete with not so well-known places that are definitely worth a visit. Highlights definitely include the seasonally open local farmer's shops on the islet of Veierland (summer only), the Viking shipbuilder's shop in Tønsberg, the mined island of Langøya, which has been declared a nature reserve and is currently undergoing reclamation and scientific work on industrial waste treatment, or the 10 000-year-old gorge near Drammen. There is also, of course, the untamed nature of the south coast and a sea as warm as tea.
🥾 We will walk
Each day we will pack up in the morning and walk about 20 km to the next suitable place to pitch our tent. Cliffs, rocks, enchanting forests and paths leading literally on water will take us along the southern coast of Norks from Sandefjord, where we arrive, to Oslo, the capital, from where we will head back home.
⛺️ Sleeping in a tent
Norway is one of the few countries where it is legal to tent in the wild. We will definitely take advantage of this. At the same time, there are typically (especially in the summer) quick showers, so tents, hammocks or tarps definitely to go! Only the first and last night will be spent in the city, in the meantime 5 times we will sleep outdoors (including once in a campsite). I've tried all the forest camping sites mentioned in the itinerary myself and I know that they are both suitable for groups and some of them are even sparingly equipped (sometimes a grill, sometimes a kadibudka, both at once would be an unnecessary luxury).
🍽️ Food and Water
We will eat and drink what we carry in our backpack. No need to take supplies from home, just shop in Sandefjord and then replenish continuously. We will be passing through towns like Tønsberg, Åsgårdstrand, Holmestrand, Drammen, so there will certainly be opportunities to stop for a shop or even lunch in a restaurant.
🏃 Who is the trip suitable for
For adventurers and travelers who are not afraid of spiders or mosquitoes keeping us company in the woods at night. Some physical fitness is required, but again the terrain is not too extreme. We walk about 15-25 km each day and set up our dwellings in the forest or on the beach. We expect a total elevation gain of about 3000 m up and 3000 m down for 150 km of walking.
🤑 Currency and language
Except for postcards at church, the vast majority of things in Norwaycan be paid for cashlessly, including ferries between islands. Other forms of payment are basically not expected. Just have an international credit card with the ability to pay in Norwegian Kroner (NOK). As for language, English can be easily spoken in Norway.
🧭 Route
We will be taking a route that I have walked myself, so I know what we are getting into. I'll share the route with you before we start our expedition using the link in Mapy.cz. The goal for each day is to enjoy the hike, get to the agreed location and set up the tents. Whether we will come up with a common program for the rest of the day is entirely up to us. We can play a game, cook soup, chat about the deadliness of the bug, etc...
🎒 How to prepare
Please check out the recommended equipment list and don't forget your good mood at home. When packing, please keep in mind that you will be carrying everything you bring with you on your back the entire time, plus food to go with it. You need a good quality and comfortable backpack, but not an unnecessarily large bag. I recommend being prepared for water in the form of rain, mud, fog and dew, and taking an adequately warm sleeping bag just in case. (I'm an ice cream man, so I walk with a winter down jacket.)
🛁 Hygiene
Due to the intense nature of being outdoors, I recommend bringing wet wipes and hand sanitizer spray, which is an absolute essential for multi-day camping. Swim in the sea, which is as warm as tea in southern Norway, but don't expect a shower in the forest.
We will fine tune any questions about the expedition together as the date gets closer. So stretch those stiff muscles and get ready for a proper adventure. If you pack your favorite travel game, I'd love it.
So, you coming? 😉
We arrive at TORP airport, which officially falls under Oslo, but is actually right next to Sandefjord. From the airport we take a train bus into the city. getting to know each other, exploring the city, shopping for food for the next few days, a walk in the adjacent forest park and perhaps a meal at a seaside restaurant...
It has a history going back about 1000 years, to the time of the mighty Vikings. But Sandefjord was officially founded in 1838. It is also worth mentioning the whaling that characterised the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first expedition was sent to the Antarctic Ocean in 1905 and by the end of 1920 Sandefjord had a total of 15 factory ships and more than 90 whaling ships. Over time, however, interest in whale meat declined until, in 1968, the whaling industry ceased altogether. Nowadays, Sandefjord is home to the only museum referring to this period of history and houses the third largest merchant fleet in Norway.
Accommodation near the train station with breakfast included. Interior themed in connection with the city's important whaling history.
After breakfast, we will head to Engø harbour, where a ferry will take us to the small island of Veierland. At the other end of the island, we board another ferry and explore neighbouring Nøtterøy. As we will be following the coastal route of Kyststien Nøtterøy, we can expect water, hills, rocks, forests, cliffs and spectacular views of the open sea. In the evening we will stay in tents on Munkerekka Beach and have a picnic.
In Engø we board the ferry to the port of Tangen on the islet of Veierland. The Engø-Tangen ferry runs daily 9am-5pm, payment by card on board.
https://www.veierland.org/ferga/rutetider.pdf
Port on Veierland
The 4.4 square kilometre island of Veierland is home to about 150 permanent residents, but during the summer months the island comes alive with a high number of holiday homes and seasonal activities. The rest of the year, on the other hand, it is possible to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of ordinary island life without the crowds. There is a ban on cars and motor vehicles. Exceptions can only be made for scooters or tractors, with cycling or walking being the most common mode of transport.
On the other side of Veierland, in Vestgården harbour, we board another ferry that takes us to Tenvik harbour on the slightly larger island of Nøtterøy. The Vestgården-Tenvik route is the same ferry as above, payment by card on board.
Harbour at Nøtterøy
From the port of Tenvik on the island of Nøtterøy we will follow the Kyststien Nøtterøy route along the west coast of the island.
Ostrov Nøtterøy, trasa Kyststien
Small pleasant beach with modest seating. The Norwegian sea is warm as tea, so if the weather permits, I definitely recommend at least getting your feet wet. After setting up the tents, we can have a picnic and play some travel games.
Take the pedestrian footbridge from the island of Nøtterøy to the mainland, right into the centre of Tønsberg, Norway's oldest city. Just over the bridge, we'll take a peek into the workshop of Eivind, builder of traditional Viking ships and patron of the St. Olaf Pilgrimage Trail. From Eivind's workshop, we continue smoothly with a commentary tour of the town: a glimpse of the remains of the fortress. We can have lunch at a local restaurant and then head into the woods just outside the town, where we stay at one of Norway's typical gapahuk.
One of the oldest towns in Scandinavia and the oldest town in Nosek. The first mention of a settlement here dates back to the 9th century AD, when, according to historical sources, there was a farmstead. capital of the country for a time. It was founded by King Harald I (Fairhair), who united the Kingdom of Norway into what we know today. The long history and vigorous Viking spirit still speaks from the streets of Tønsberg.
We sleep at a gapahuk (shelter) in the forest behind Tønsberg. We can't all fit under the roof, so we put up tents around it. However, we can use tables, a fire pit and a fireplace.
Today's day will be in the spirit of close connection with the untamed Norwegian nature. We will continue to follow the coastal trail, sometimes jumping on rocks right in the water. There will also be forests, and at the end the terrain will get a bit wavy, so we will climb some hills. High cliffs will offer us views of the open sea and we will find accommodation in a witching cottage on a cliff.
The point of departure and also the place where we rejoin the coast. In the town it is possible to replenish food (supermarket).
Passage point
The luxurious shelter with fireplace and seating is the perfect place to rest and stash some goodies. The replenished energy is then burned off on the cliff climb.
We'll ask Hagrid to let us spend the night at his hut. There are plenty of places for tents (and hammocks) around, you can sit inside by the fireplace or outside on benches overlooking the sea.
From the wizard's hut we will go through meadows, forests and fields to the town of Holmestrand. Here we board the boat to Langøya at the harbour. We'll tour the nature reserve on Oslofjord's second largest island, whose landscape is currently being restored after years of mining. We then take a boat ride back to the mainland and head into the forest to the tourist lodge where we stay.
Holmestrand naturally developed around 1550 as a port for the export of harvested timber. In 1716, however, the northern part burnt down and the town gradually declined. The era of seafaring and then the new railroad brought brief moments of rebirth, but the greatest historical achievement is considered to be the aluminum factory, whose museum is an important part of the town's present-day appearance.
It is important for us to be in civilization. So shops and restaurants. But first we're going to explore neighbouring Langøya. The ferry to Langøya runs on a regular schedule: https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/boattrip-to-langøya/237577/
The island began limestone mining 150 years ago, making it inaccessible to the public. The mining machines gradually excavated the entire island, leaving only deep craters. restoring the island's original landscape. After thirty years of work, the northern part has been reopened to the public and declared a nature reserve.
https://en.noah.no/for-clients/treatment-area/langoya/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Again in town, so again a chance to replenish food or water supplies or have a good lunch before the next hike.
Don't be scared of the 39 km number, the route can be shortened or adapted to our current state of determination. Either way, we'll head to the town of Sande for the train, skipping the boring road walking. We'll get off at Drammen, which is, from my point of view, the biggest highlight of this trip.
After Ypsilon Bridge we cross the Drammenselva River and rest on the other bank in the city park. Then we'll head up to the top of the hill outside the city, where the Friluftsmuseet - a free open-air museum and museum of historic buildings that have been moved here from various parts of Norway - awaits us. Each building has its own story to tell, and together they remind us of the olden days and the life of our ancestors in the harsh conditions of the Nordic country. From the museum, we will follow a smooth hiking route around the lakes through the hills until we descend back to Drammen, where we will stay at a retro campsite by the river.
To shorten the journey and skip the boring road walk, we take the train to Dramnen in Sande.
There's a train to Drammen. We will get off at the station and cross the river right after Ypsilon Bridge. On the other bank we will be enchanted by the city park, from where we will go to the Tunnel Spiralen. Then we check out the historical buildings in the museum on the hill. We will continue along the hiking route around the lakes until we get back to Drammen, where we will stay at the campsite.
The Ypsilon Bridge was opened in 2008. It is an architectural masterpiece by Arne Eggen and an integral part of the city's identity. It connects the knowledge park Grønland with the city park in Bragernes (city district) and functions as a living urban space. The slender steel structure has quickly become an icon for Drammen. Due to its peculiar shape, it was given the name "Ypsilon".
Photo from visitnorway.com
Through the town, we head up the hill to the freely accessible museum of historic doorways.
In 1914 the Drammens Museum took over the timbered farmhouse from Moldbakken in Torpo in Hallingdal. The farmhouse was exhibited at the Jubilee Exhibition in Frogner (Kristiania) and the museum loaned the inventory. This is how the project started to build an open-air museum with the idea of showing the peasant culture in Buskerud from the pre-industrial era.
Several old timbered houses from Hallingdal followed: in 1917 a warehouse from Tunehagen in Ålu was built, in 1922 a stable from Søre Villand in Hol was converted, in 1927 a loft from Mellom Rue in Hol was converted. This was followed by a sauna from Rud in Hovet, which was built in 1937.The museum purchased these houses, but the war then put an end or suspension to the project.
After the war, ambitions grew and the museum was eventually allowed to have a 200 acre site on Bragernesåsen (where the houses stand today). However, the plans dragged on and the first houses were only rebuilt in 1987. A total of 20 houses were rebuilt here between 1987 and 2000.
https://drammens.museum.no/eng/arena/friluftsmuseet-bragernesasen/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Kjosterudjuvet is a 10,000-year-old spectacular gorge just 10 minutes from the centre of Drammen. The gorge is 1300 metres long and the stone walls are more than 60 metres high.
We have two options to get to the gorge: either cut the lake walk considerably short and head straight here, or, after climbing the entire lake circuit, come to the gorge from the other side, climb along the waterfalls to Lake Gamledammen and then back down to the town. We decide on the spot.
The gorge can only be visited if the rivers are not swollen.
Photo from visitnorway.com
Drammen Camping is a retro campsite on the banks of the Drammenselva. It is equipped with shared toilets, showers, a kitchen and there is a source of drinking water. The more demanding can book a cabin at their own expense (4 four-bed wooden cabins available).
More at: https://drammencamping.no
Photo from visitnorway.com
From Drammen we take a very nice stretch through a swampy area to Asker where, again to avoid the roads, we take the train to Oslo. In the capital, we put down our bags for accommodation, freshen up and take to the streets. Exploration of the capital will be a form of free program. The itinerary mentions interesting places or activities, but everyone is interested in something different, so participation is voluntary.
Take the train to Oslo
Oslo became the capital of Norway in 1299, but over the following centuries (including the plague of 1349) its importance declined. The decline culminated in a major fire in 1624, after which the then Danish-Norwegian king Kristian IV founded the new city of Christiania in the neighbourhood. Over time, it swallowed the remains of Oslo and eventually surpassed Bergen - until then Norway's most important city - in importance during the 19th century. Subsequently, the Royal Palace, University and Parliament were built here. Christiania was renamed back to Oslo on 1 January 1925.
After the wars, the city experienced a very progressive development that persists to this day. In 2019, Oslo earned the prestigious European Green Capital designation. More than half of the city's skyline is covered in forests and parks, and the dominant feature is the bay that runs right into the centre of the city. The centre is almost car-free, making it easy to explore on foot, by bicycle or by very efficient public transport.
The remaining time until departure will again be a free program in the capital, which offers countless free and paid experiences. Below, a selection of the (for me) most interesting ones.
In due course we will then move together (or individually) to the airport with our luggage.
The Deichman Library, Bjørvika is certainly worth mentioning, where in addition to books you will find a café, a cinema and plenty of places to relax: https://deichman.no/in-english
The Botanical Garden in Tøyen offers over 4,500 species of plants from all over the world in several themed gardens and two greenhouses. It is run by the University of Oslo and freely accessible: https://www.nhm.uio.no/english/exhibitions/botanical-garden/index.html
Vigeland - a freely accessible sculpture park is certainly worth a visit. The museum building also hosts exhibitions (there's an admission fee) of works by leading artists: https://vigeland.museum.no
The National Museum of Norway was founded in 2003 when the National Gallery, the Museum of Art and Design, the Museum of Architecture and the Museum of Contemporary Art merged. The process of moving more than 400,000 objects into the new space, which opened in 2022, took more than a year. https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/en/
Love for nature, history and modern way of life. These words could sum up the idea behind this itinerary. Norway is one of the most progressive countries in continental Europe and yet its progress is not based on the narrow-minded expansion of industry and the plundering of the landscape, quite the opposite. During our journey, we will discover the beauty of the coast, forests and lakes, but also the charm of the cities that develop side by side with the surrounding nature. Instead of trying to eradicate them, fresh air, mature trees and spectacular views of the countryside are becoming an integral part of modern civilisation. And you simply must experience it!
itinerary by Lucie Janikova
In the summer of 2023, I set out for a month under a tent and wandering on foot in the south of Norway. The Itinerary is a selection of the most beautiful parts of the route, complete with not so well-known places that are definitely worth a visit. Highlights definitely include the seasonally open local farmer's shops on the islet of Veierland (summer only), the Viking shipbuilder's shop in Tønsberg, the mined island of Langøya, which has been declared a nature reserve and is currently undergoing reclamation and scientific work on industrial waste treatment, or the 10 000-year-old gorge near Drammen. There is also, of course, the untamed nature of the south coast and a sea as warm as tea.
🥾 We will walk
Each day we will pack up in the morning and walk about 20 km to the next suitable place to pitch our tent. Cliffs, rocks, enchanting forests and paths leading literally on water will take us along the southern coast of Norks from Sandefjord, where we arrive, to Oslo, the capital, from where we will head back home.
⛺️ Sleeping in a tent
Norway is one of the few countries where it is legal to tent in the wild. We will definitely take advantage of this. At the same time, there are typically (especially in the summer) quick showers, so tents, hammocks or tarps definitely to go! Only the first and last night will be spent in the city, in the meantime 5 times we will sleep outdoors (including once in a campsite). I've tried all the forest camping sites mentioned in the itinerary myself and I know that they are both suitable for groups and some of them are even sparingly equipped (sometimes a grill, sometimes a kadibudka, both at once would be an unnecessary luxury).
🍽️ Food and Water
We will eat and drink what we carry in our backpack. No need to take supplies from home, just shop in Sandefjord and then replenish continuously. We will be passing through towns like Tønsberg, Åsgårdstrand, Holmestrand, Drammen, so there will certainly be opportunities to stop for a shop or even lunch in a restaurant.
🏃 Who is the trip suitable for
For adventurers and travelers who are not afraid of spiders or mosquitoes keeping us company in the woods at night. Some physical fitness is required, but again the terrain is not too extreme. We walk about 15-25 km each day and set up our dwellings in the forest or on the beach. We expect a total elevation gain of about 3000 m up and 3000 m down for 150 km of walking.
🤑 Currency and language
Except for postcards at church, the vast majority of things in Norwaycan be paid for cashlessly, including ferries between islands. Other forms of payment are basically not expected. Just have an international credit card with the ability to pay in Norwegian Kroner (NOK). As for language, English can be easily spoken in Norway.
🧭 Route
We will be taking a route that I have walked myself, so I know what we are getting into. I'll share the route with you before we start our expedition using the link in Mapy.cz. The goal for each day is to enjoy the hike, get to the agreed location and set up the tents. Whether we will come up with a common program for the rest of the day is entirely up to us. We can play a game, cook soup, chat about the deadliness of the bug, etc...
🎒 How to prepare
Please check out the recommended equipment list and don't forget your good mood at home. When packing, please keep in mind that you will be carrying everything you bring with you on your back the entire time, plus food to go with it. You need a good quality and comfortable backpack, but not an unnecessarily large bag. I recommend being prepared for water in the form of rain, mud, fog and dew, and taking an adequately warm sleeping bag just in case. (I'm an ice cream man, so I walk with a winter down jacket.)
🛁 Hygiene
Due to the intense nature of being outdoors, I recommend bringing wet wipes and hand sanitizer spray, which is an absolute essential for multi-day camping. Swim in the sea, which is as warm as tea in southern Norway, but don't expect a shower in the forest.
We will fine tune any questions about the expedition together as the date gets closer. So stretch those stiff muscles and get ready for a proper adventure. If you pack your favorite travel game, I'd love it.
So, you coming? 😉
We arrive at TORP airport, which officially falls under Oslo, but is actually right next to Sandefjord. From the airport we take a train bus into the city. getting to know each other, exploring the city, shopping for food for the next few days, a walk in the adjacent forest park and perhaps a meal at a seaside restaurant...
It has a history going back about 1000 years, to the time of the mighty Vikings. But Sandefjord was officially founded in 1838. It is also worth mentioning the whaling that characterised the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first expedition was sent to the Antarctic Ocean in 1905 and by the end of 1920 Sandefjord had a total of 15 factory ships and more than 90 whaling ships. Over time, however, interest in whale meat declined until, in 1968, the whaling industry ceased altogether. Nowadays, Sandefjord is home to the only museum referring to this period of history and houses the third largest merchant fleet in Norway.
Accommodation near the train station with breakfast included. Interior themed in connection with the city's important whaling history.
After breakfast, we will head to Engø harbour, where a ferry will take us to the small island of Veierland. At the other end of the island, we board another ferry and explore neighbouring Nøtterøy. As we will be following the coastal route of Kyststien Nøtterøy, we can expect water, hills, rocks, forests, cliffs and spectacular views of the open sea. In the evening we will stay in tents on Munkerekka Beach and have a picnic.
In Engø we board the ferry to the port of Tangen on the islet of Veierland. The Engø-Tangen ferry runs daily 9am-5pm, payment by card on board.
https://www.veierland.org/ferga/rutetider.pdf
Port on Veierland
The 4.4 square kilometre island of Veierland is home to about 150 permanent residents, but during the summer months the island comes alive with a high number of holiday homes and seasonal activities. The rest of the year, on the other hand, it is possible to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of ordinary island life without the crowds. There is a ban on cars and motor vehicles. Exceptions can only be made for scooters or tractors, with cycling or walking being the most common mode of transport.
On the other side of Veierland, in Vestgården harbour, we board another ferry that takes us to Tenvik harbour on the slightly larger island of Nøtterøy. The Vestgården-Tenvik route is the same ferry as above, payment by card on board.
Harbour at Nøtterøy
From the port of Tenvik on the island of Nøtterøy we will follow the Kyststien Nøtterøy route along the west coast of the island.
Ostrov Nøtterøy, trasa Kyststien
Small pleasant beach with modest seating. The Norwegian sea is warm as tea, so if the weather permits, I definitely recommend at least getting your feet wet. After setting up the tents, we can have a picnic and play some travel games.
Take the pedestrian footbridge from the island of Nøtterøy to the mainland, right into the centre of Tønsberg, Norway's oldest city. Just over the bridge, we'll take a peek into the workshop of Eivind, builder of traditional Viking ships and patron of the St. Olaf Pilgrimage Trail. From Eivind's workshop, we continue smoothly with a commentary tour of the town: a glimpse of the remains of the fortress. We can have lunch at a local restaurant and then head into the woods just outside the town, where we stay at one of Norway's typical gapahuk.
One of the oldest towns in Scandinavia and the oldest town in Nosek. The first mention of a settlement here dates back to the 9th century AD, when, according to historical sources, there was a farmstead. capital of the country for a time. It was founded by King Harald I (Fairhair), who united the Kingdom of Norway into what we know today. The long history and vigorous Viking spirit still speaks from the streets of Tønsberg.
We sleep at a gapahuk (shelter) in the forest behind Tønsberg. We can't all fit under the roof, so we put up tents around it. However, we can use tables, a fire pit and a fireplace.
Today's day will be in the spirit of close connection with the untamed Norwegian nature. We will continue to follow the coastal trail, sometimes jumping on rocks right in the water. There will also be forests, and at the end the terrain will get a bit wavy, so we will climb some hills. High cliffs will offer us views of the open sea and we will find accommodation in a witching cottage on a cliff.
The point of departure and also the place where we rejoin the coast. In the town it is possible to replenish food (supermarket).
Passage point
The luxurious shelter with fireplace and seating is the perfect place to rest and stash some goodies. The replenished energy is then burned off on the cliff climb.
We'll ask Hagrid to let us spend the night at his hut. There are plenty of places for tents (and hammocks) around, you can sit inside by the fireplace or outside on benches overlooking the sea.
From the wizard's hut we will go through meadows, forests and fields to the town of Holmestrand. Here we board the boat to Langøya at the harbour. We'll tour the nature reserve on Oslofjord's second largest island, whose landscape is currently being restored after years of mining. We then take a boat ride back to the mainland and head into the forest to the tourist lodge where we stay.
Holmestrand naturally developed around 1550 as a port for the export of harvested timber. In 1716, however, the northern part burnt down and the town gradually declined. The era of seafaring and then the new railroad brought brief moments of rebirth, but the greatest historical achievement is considered to be the aluminum factory, whose museum is an important part of the town's present-day appearance.
It is important for us to be in civilization. So shops and restaurants. But first we're going to explore neighbouring Langøya. The ferry to Langøya runs on a regular schedule: https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/boattrip-to-langøya/237577/
The island began limestone mining 150 years ago, making it inaccessible to the public. The mining machines gradually excavated the entire island, leaving only deep craters. restoring the island's original landscape. After thirty years of work, the northern part has been reopened to the public and declared a nature reserve.
https://en.noah.no/for-clients/treatment-area/langoya/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Again in town, so again a chance to replenish food or water supplies or have a good lunch before the next hike.
Don't be scared of the 39 km number, the route can be shortened or adapted to our current state of determination. Either way, we'll head to the town of Sande for the train, skipping the boring road walking. We'll get off at Drammen, which is, from my point of view, the biggest highlight of this trip.
After Ypsilon Bridge we cross the Drammenselva River and rest on the other bank in the city park. Then we'll head up to the top of the hill outside the city, where the Friluftsmuseet - a free open-air museum and museum of historic buildings that have been moved here from various parts of Norway - awaits us. Each building has its own story to tell, and together they remind us of the olden days and the life of our ancestors in the harsh conditions of the Nordic country. From the museum, we will follow a smooth hiking route around the lakes through the hills until we descend back to Drammen, where we will stay at a retro campsite by the river.
To shorten the journey and skip the boring road walk, we take the train to Dramnen in Sande.
There's a train to Drammen. We will get off at the station and cross the river right after Ypsilon Bridge. On the other bank we will be enchanted by the city park, from where we will go to the Tunnel Spiralen. Then we check out the historical buildings in the museum on the hill. We will continue along the hiking route around the lakes until we get back to Drammen, where we will stay at the campsite.
The Ypsilon Bridge was opened in 2008. It is an architectural masterpiece by Arne Eggen and an integral part of the city's identity. It connects the knowledge park Grønland with the city park in Bragernes (city district) and functions as a living urban space. The slender steel structure has quickly become an icon for Drammen. Due to its peculiar shape, it was given the name "Ypsilon".
Photo from visitnorway.com
Through the town, we head up the hill to the freely accessible museum of historic doorways.
In 1914 the Drammens Museum took over the timbered farmhouse from Moldbakken in Torpo in Hallingdal. The farmhouse was exhibited at the Jubilee Exhibition in Frogner (Kristiania) and the museum loaned the inventory. This is how the project started to build an open-air museum with the idea of showing the peasant culture in Buskerud from the pre-industrial era.
Several old timbered houses from Hallingdal followed: in 1917 a warehouse from Tunehagen in Ålu was built, in 1922 a stable from Søre Villand in Hol was converted, in 1927 a loft from Mellom Rue in Hol was converted. This was followed by a sauna from Rud in Hovet, which was built in 1937.The museum purchased these houses, but the war then put an end or suspension to the project.
After the war, ambitions grew and the museum was eventually allowed to have a 200 acre site on Bragernesåsen (where the houses stand today). However, the plans dragged on and the first houses were only rebuilt in 1987. A total of 20 houses were rebuilt here between 1987 and 2000.
https://drammens.museum.no/eng/arena/friluftsmuseet-bragernesasen/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Kjosterudjuvet is a 10,000-year-old spectacular gorge just 10 minutes from the centre of Drammen. The gorge is 1300 metres long and the stone walls are more than 60 metres high.
We have two options to get to the gorge: either cut the lake walk considerably short and head straight here, or, after climbing the entire lake circuit, come to the gorge from the other side, climb along the waterfalls to Lake Gamledammen and then back down to the town. We decide on the spot.
The gorge can only be visited if the rivers are not swollen.
Photo from visitnorway.com
Drammen Camping is a retro campsite on the banks of the Drammenselva. It is equipped with shared toilets, showers, a kitchen and there is a source of drinking water. The more demanding can book a cabin at their own expense (4 four-bed wooden cabins available).
More at: https://drammencamping.no
Photo from visitnorway.com
From Drammen we take a very nice stretch through a swampy area to Asker where, again to avoid the roads, we take the train to Oslo. In the capital, we put down our bags for accommodation, freshen up and take to the streets. Exploration of the capital will be a form of free program. The itinerary mentions interesting places or activities, but everyone is interested in something different, so participation is voluntary.
Take the train to Oslo
Oslo became the capital of Norway in 1299, but over the following centuries (including the plague of 1349) its importance declined. The decline culminated in a major fire in 1624, after which the then Danish-Norwegian king Kristian IV founded the new city of Christiania in the neighbourhood. Over time, it swallowed the remains of Oslo and eventually surpassed Bergen - until then Norway's most important city - in importance during the 19th century. Subsequently, the Royal Palace, University and Parliament were built here. Christiania was renamed back to Oslo on 1 January 1925.
After the wars, the city experienced a very progressive development that persists to this day. In 2019, Oslo earned the prestigious European Green Capital designation. More than half of the city's skyline is covered in forests and parks, and the dominant feature is the bay that runs right into the centre of the city. The centre is almost car-free, making it easy to explore on foot, by bicycle or by very efficient public transport.
The remaining time until departure will again be a free program in the capital, which offers countless free and paid experiences. Below, a selection of the (for me) most interesting ones.
In due course we will then move together (or individually) to the airport with our luggage.
The Deichman Library, Bjørvika is certainly worth mentioning, where in addition to books you will find a café, a cinema and plenty of places to relax: https://deichman.no/in-english
The Botanical Garden in Tøyen offers over 4,500 species of plants from all over the world in several themed gardens and two greenhouses. It is run by the University of Oslo and freely accessible: https://www.nhm.uio.no/english/exhibitions/botanical-garden/index.html
Vigeland - a freely accessible sculpture park is certainly worth a visit. The museum building also hosts exhibitions (there's an admission fee) of works by leading artists: https://vigeland.museum.no
The National Museum of Norway was founded in 2003 when the National Gallery, the Museum of Art and Design, the Museum of Architecture and the Museum of Contemporary Art merged. The process of moving more than 400,000 objects into the new space, which opened in 2022, took more than a year. https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/en/
Love for nature, history and modern way of life. These words could sum up the idea behind this itinerary. Norway is one of the most progressive countries in continental Europe and yet its progress is not based on the narrow-minded expansion of industry and the plundering of the landscape, quite the opposite. During our journey, we will discover the beauty of the coast, forests and lakes, but also the charm of the cities that develop side by side with the surrounding nature. Instead of trying to eradicate them, fresh air, mature trees and spectacular views of the countryside are becoming an integral part of modern civilisation. And you simply must experience it!
In the summer of 2023, I set out for a month under a tent and wandering on foot in the south of Norway. The Itinerary is a selection of the most beautiful parts of the route, complete with not so well-known places that are definitely worth a visit. Highlights definitely include the seasonally open local farmer's shops on the islet of Veierland (summer only), the Viking shipbuilder's shop in Tønsberg, the mined island of Langøya, which has been declared a nature reserve and is currently undergoing reclamation and scientific work on industrial waste treatment, or the 10 000-year-old gorge near Drammen. There is also, of course, the untamed nature of the south coast and a sea as warm as tea.
🥾 We will walk
Each day we will pack up in the morning and walk about 20 km to the next suitable place to pitch our tent. Cliffs, rocks, enchanting forests and paths leading literally on water will take us along the southern coast of Norks from Sandefjord, where we arrive, to Oslo, the capital, from where we will head back home.
⛺️ Sleeping in a tent
Norway is one of the few countries where it is legal to tent in the wild. We will definitely take advantage of this. At the same time, there are typically (especially in the summer) quick showers, so tents, hammocks or tarps definitely to go! Only the first and last night will be spent in the city, in the meantime 5 times we will sleep outdoors (including once in a campsite). I've tried all the forest camping sites mentioned in the itinerary myself and I know that they are both suitable for groups and some of them are even sparingly equipped (sometimes a grill, sometimes a kadibudka, both at once would be an unnecessary luxury).
🍽️ Food and Water
We will eat and drink what we carry in our backpack. No need to take supplies from home, just shop in Sandefjord and then replenish continuously. We will be passing through towns like Tønsberg, Åsgårdstrand, Holmestrand, Drammen, so there will certainly be opportunities to stop for a shop or even lunch in a restaurant.
🏃 Who is the trip suitable for
For adventurers and travelers who are not afraid of spiders or mosquitoes keeping us company in the woods at night. Some physical fitness is required, but again the terrain is not too extreme. We walk about 15-25 km each day and set up our dwellings in the forest or on the beach. We expect a total elevation gain of about 3000 m up and 3000 m down for 150 km of walking.
🤑 Currency and language
Except for postcards at church, the vast majority of things in Norwaycan be paid for cashlessly, including ferries between islands. Other forms of payment are basically not expected. Just have an international credit card with the ability to pay in Norwegian Kroner (NOK). As for language, English can be easily spoken in Norway.
🧭 Route
We will be taking a route that I have walked myself, so I know what we are getting into. I'll share the route with you before we start our expedition using the link in Mapy.cz. The goal for each day is to enjoy the hike, get to the agreed location and set up the tents. Whether we will come up with a common program for the rest of the day is entirely up to us. We can play a game, cook soup, chat about the deadliness of the bug, etc...
🎒 How to prepare
Please check out the recommended equipment list and don't forget your good mood at home. When packing, please keep in mind that you will be carrying everything you bring with you on your back the entire time, plus food to go with it. You need a good quality and comfortable backpack, but not an unnecessarily large bag. I recommend being prepared for water in the form of rain, mud, fog and dew, and taking an adequately warm sleeping bag just in case. (I'm an ice cream man, so I walk with a winter down jacket.)
🛁 Hygiene
Due to the intense nature of being outdoors, I recommend bringing wet wipes and hand sanitizer spray, which is an absolute essential for multi-day camping. Swim in the sea, which is as warm as tea in southern Norway, but don't expect a shower in the forest.
We will fine tune any questions about the expedition together as the date gets closer. So stretch those stiff muscles and get ready for a proper adventure. If you pack your favorite travel game, I'd love it.
So, you coming? 😉
We arrive at TORP airport, which officially falls under Oslo, but is actually right next to Sandefjord. From the airport we take a train bus into the city. getting to know each other, exploring the city, shopping for food for the next few days, a walk in the adjacent forest park and perhaps a meal at a seaside restaurant...
It has a history going back about 1000 years, to the time of the mighty Vikings. But Sandefjord was officially founded in 1838. It is also worth mentioning the whaling that characterised the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The first expedition was sent to the Antarctic Ocean in 1905 and by the end of 1920 Sandefjord had a total of 15 factory ships and more than 90 whaling ships. Over time, however, interest in whale meat declined until, in 1968, the whaling industry ceased altogether. Nowadays, Sandefjord is home to the only museum referring to this period of history and houses the third largest merchant fleet in Norway.
Accommodation near the train station with breakfast included. Interior themed in connection with the city's important whaling history.
After breakfast, we will head to Engø harbour, where a ferry will take us to the small island of Veierland. At the other end of the island, we board another ferry and explore neighbouring Nøtterøy. As we will be following the coastal route of Kyststien Nøtterøy, we can expect water, hills, rocks, forests, cliffs and spectacular views of the open sea. In the evening we will stay in tents on Munkerekka Beach and have a picnic.
In Engø we board the ferry to the port of Tangen on the islet of Veierland. The Engø-Tangen ferry runs daily 9am-5pm, payment by card on board.
https://www.veierland.org/ferga/rutetider.pdf
Port on Veierland
The 4.4 square kilometre island of Veierland is home to about 150 permanent residents, but during the summer months the island comes alive with a high number of holiday homes and seasonal activities. The rest of the year, on the other hand, it is possible to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of ordinary island life without the crowds. There is a ban on cars and motor vehicles. Exceptions can only be made for scooters or tractors, with cycling or walking being the most common mode of transport.
On the other side of Veierland, in Vestgården harbour, we board another ferry that takes us to Tenvik harbour on the slightly larger island of Nøtterøy. The Vestgården-Tenvik route is the same ferry as above, payment by card on board.
Harbour at Nøtterøy
From the port of Tenvik on the island of Nøtterøy we will follow the Kyststien Nøtterøy route along the west coast of the island.
Ostrov Nøtterøy, trasa Kyststien
Small pleasant beach with modest seating. The Norwegian sea is warm as tea, so if the weather permits, I definitely recommend at least getting your feet wet. After setting up the tents, we can have a picnic and play some travel games.
Take the pedestrian footbridge from the island of Nøtterøy to the mainland, right into the centre of Tønsberg, Norway's oldest city. Just over the bridge, we'll take a peek into the workshop of Eivind, builder of traditional Viking ships and patron of the St. Olaf Pilgrimage Trail. From Eivind's workshop, we continue smoothly with a commentary tour of the town: a glimpse of the remains of the fortress. We can have lunch at a local restaurant and then head into the woods just outside the town, where we stay at one of Norway's typical gapahuk.
One of the oldest towns in Scandinavia and the oldest town in Nosek. The first mention of a settlement here dates back to the 9th century AD, when, according to historical sources, there was a farmstead. capital of the country for a time. It was founded by King Harald I (Fairhair), who united the Kingdom of Norway into what we know today. The long history and vigorous Viking spirit still speaks from the streets of Tønsberg.
We sleep at a gapahuk (shelter) in the forest behind Tønsberg. We can't all fit under the roof, so we put up tents around it. However, we can use tables, a fire pit and a fireplace.
Today's day will be in the spirit of close connection with the untamed Norwegian nature. We will continue to follow the coastal trail, sometimes jumping on rocks right in the water. There will also be forests, and at the end the terrain will get a bit wavy, so we will climb some hills. High cliffs will offer us views of the open sea and we will find accommodation in a witching cottage on a cliff.
The point of departure and also the place where we rejoin the coast. In the town it is possible to replenish food (supermarket).
Passage point
The luxurious shelter with fireplace and seating is the perfect place to rest and stash some goodies. The replenished energy is then burned off on the cliff climb.
We'll ask Hagrid to let us spend the night at his hut. There are plenty of places for tents (and hammocks) around, you can sit inside by the fireplace or outside on benches overlooking the sea.
From the wizard's hut we will go through meadows, forests and fields to the town of Holmestrand. Here we board the boat to Langøya at the harbour. We'll tour the nature reserve on Oslofjord's second largest island, whose landscape is currently being restored after years of mining. We then take a boat ride back to the mainland and head into the forest to the tourist lodge where we stay.
Holmestrand naturally developed around 1550 as a port for the export of harvested timber. In 1716, however, the northern part burnt down and the town gradually declined. The era of seafaring and then the new railroad brought brief moments of rebirth, but the greatest historical achievement is considered to be the aluminum factory, whose museum is an important part of the town's present-day appearance.
It is important for us to be in civilization. So shops and restaurants. But first we're going to explore neighbouring Langøya. The ferry to Langøya runs on a regular schedule: https://www.visitnorway.com/listings/boattrip-to-langøya/237577/
The island began limestone mining 150 years ago, making it inaccessible to the public. The mining machines gradually excavated the entire island, leaving only deep craters. restoring the island's original landscape. After thirty years of work, the northern part has been reopened to the public and declared a nature reserve.
https://en.noah.no/for-clients/treatment-area/langoya/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Again in town, so again a chance to replenish food or water supplies or have a good lunch before the next hike.
Don't be scared of the 39 km number, the route can be shortened or adapted to our current state of determination. Either way, we'll head to the town of Sande for the train, skipping the boring road walking. We'll get off at Drammen, which is, from my point of view, the biggest highlight of this trip.
After Ypsilon Bridge we cross the Drammenselva River and rest on the other bank in the city park. Then we'll head up to the top of the hill outside the city, where the Friluftsmuseet - a free open-air museum and museum of historic buildings that have been moved here from various parts of Norway - awaits us. Each building has its own story to tell, and together they remind us of the olden days and the life of our ancestors in the harsh conditions of the Nordic country. From the museum, we will follow a smooth hiking route around the lakes through the hills until we descend back to Drammen, where we will stay at a retro campsite by the river.
To shorten the journey and skip the boring road walk, we take the train to Dramnen in Sande.
There's a train to Drammen. We will get off at the station and cross the river right after Ypsilon Bridge. On the other bank we will be enchanted by the city park, from where we will go to the Tunnel Spiralen. Then we check out the historical buildings in the museum on the hill. We will continue along the hiking route around the lakes until we get back to Drammen, where we will stay at the campsite.
The Ypsilon Bridge was opened in 2008. It is an architectural masterpiece by Arne Eggen and an integral part of the city's identity. It connects the knowledge park Grønland with the city park in Bragernes (city district) and functions as a living urban space. The slender steel structure has quickly become an icon for Drammen. Due to its peculiar shape, it was given the name "Ypsilon".
Photo from visitnorway.com
Through the town, we head up the hill to the freely accessible museum of historic doorways.
In 1914 the Drammens Museum took over the timbered farmhouse from Moldbakken in Torpo in Hallingdal. The farmhouse was exhibited at the Jubilee Exhibition in Frogner (Kristiania) and the museum loaned the inventory. This is how the project started to build an open-air museum with the idea of showing the peasant culture in Buskerud from the pre-industrial era.
Several old timbered houses from Hallingdal followed: in 1917 a warehouse from Tunehagen in Ålu was built, in 1922 a stable from Søre Villand in Hol was converted, in 1927 a loft from Mellom Rue in Hol was converted. This was followed by a sauna from Rud in Hovet, which was built in 1937.The museum purchased these houses, but the war then put an end or suspension to the project.
After the war, ambitions grew and the museum was eventually allowed to have a 200 acre site on Bragernesåsen (where the houses stand today). However, the plans dragged on and the first houses were only rebuilt in 1987. A total of 20 houses were rebuilt here between 1987 and 2000.
https://drammens.museum.no/eng/arena/friluftsmuseet-bragernesasen/
Photo from visitnorway.com
Kjosterudjuvet is a 10,000-year-old spectacular gorge just 10 minutes from the centre of Drammen. The gorge is 1300 metres long and the stone walls are more than 60 metres high.
We have two options to get to the gorge: either cut the lake walk considerably short and head straight here, or, after climbing the entire lake circuit, come to the gorge from the other side, climb along the waterfalls to Lake Gamledammen and then back down to the town. We decide on the spot.
The gorge can only be visited if the rivers are not swollen.
Photo from visitnorway.com
Drammen Camping is a retro campsite on the banks of the Drammenselva. It is equipped with shared toilets, showers, a kitchen and there is a source of drinking water. The more demanding can book a cabin at their own expense (4 four-bed wooden cabins available).
More at: https://drammencamping.no
Photo from visitnorway.com
From Drammen we take a very nice stretch through a swampy area to Asker where, again to avoid the roads, we take the train to Oslo. In the capital, we put down our bags for accommodation, freshen up and take to the streets. Exploration of the capital will be a form of free program. The itinerary mentions interesting places or activities, but everyone is interested in something different, so participation is voluntary.
Take the train to Oslo
Oslo became the capital of Norway in 1299, but over the following centuries (including the plague of 1349) its importance declined. The decline culminated in a major fire in 1624, after which the then Danish-Norwegian king Kristian IV founded the new city of Christiania in the neighbourhood. Over time, it swallowed the remains of Oslo and eventually surpassed Bergen - until then Norway's most important city - in importance during the 19th century. Subsequently, the Royal Palace, University and Parliament were built here. Christiania was renamed back to Oslo on 1 January 1925.
After the wars, the city experienced a very progressive development that persists to this day. In 2019, Oslo earned the prestigious European Green Capital designation. More than half of the city's skyline is covered in forests and parks, and the dominant feature is the bay that runs right into the centre of the city. The centre is almost car-free, making it easy to explore on foot, by bicycle or by very efficient public transport.
The remaining time until departure will again be a free program in the capital, which offers countless free and paid experiences. Below, a selection of the (for me) most interesting ones.
In due course we will then move together (or individually) to the airport with our luggage.
The Deichman Library, Bjørvika is certainly worth mentioning, where in addition to books you will find a café, a cinema and plenty of places to relax: https://deichman.no/in-english
The Botanical Garden in Tøyen offers over 4,500 species of plants from all over the world in several themed gardens and two greenhouses. It is run by the University of Oslo and freely accessible: https://www.nhm.uio.no/english/exhibitions/botanical-garden/index.html
Vigeland - a freely accessible sculpture park is certainly worth a visit. The museum building also hosts exhibitions (there's an admission fee) of works by leading artists: https://vigeland.museum.no
The National Museum of Norway was founded in 2003 when the National Gallery, the Museum of Art and Design, the Museum of Architecture and the Museum of Contemporary Art merged. The process of moving more than 400,000 objects into the new space, which opened in 2022, took more than a year. https://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/en/
Love for nature, history and modern way of life. These words could sum up the idea behind this itinerary. Norway is one of the most progressive countries in continental Europe and yet its progress is not based on the narrow-minded expansion of industry and the plundering of the landscape, quite the opposite. During our journey, we will discover the beauty of the coast, forests and lakes, but also the charm of the cities that develop side by side with the surrounding nature. Instead of trying to eradicate them, fresh air, mature trees and spectacular views of the countryside are becoming an integral part of modern civilisation. And you simply must experience it!
